When it comes to unwinding after a long day, grabbing a quick drink with friends, or just seeking a refresher to a plate of spicy tteokbokki, Koreans have a clear beverage of choice: beer - or "maekju" in Korean. To put it into perspective, the average Korean adult is knocking back approximately 83 bottles of beer each year. That's a chilled, frothy brew being popped open about two times a week. Not only does this outstrip their thirst for soju, Korea's national drink, but it also sees South Korea people out-drinking all of their East Asian neighbours, from Japan to Taiwan, Hong Kong to Vietnam (per-capita basis).

Beer has steadily frothed up to the top of the alcohol preference list. It has become a common sight in many South Korean households. The beer experience extends beyond the home, with its presence as ubiquitous as the neon signs illuminating the streets of Seoul. From the countless hofs (Korean-style beer bars) serving overflowing glasses of draft beer, to casual outdoor tents known as pojangmacha, beer is a staple in the Korean social setting.

It's not solely the taste of beer that Koreans relish. Beer in Korea is not complete without humble, unpretentious Korean food. And in fact Koreans have specific categories of foods to be paired with alcohol, what they call "anju". Korean fried chicken is an example – making the iconic "chi-maek" combo ("chicken" and "maekju"). This popular pairing has even sparked chicken and beer festivals – the biggest being the Daegu Chimac Festival that happens annually at the south eastern city of Daegu.

Beer and food is a social ritual, an ice-breaker, a bridge of camaraderie. Toasts and clink glasses with roars of "geonbae!" are a common sight and essential experience to be part of if one were to experience the real Korea.

Are Korean Beers Bland? Gordon Ramsay Comes To Their Defence

But despite its importance in Korean culture, the biggest brands of Korean beer stood on slippery slopes with serious beer drinkers. To the casual drinker, Cass beer and Hite might be acceptable quenchers. But for Western tourists, or even Koreans who've had a taste of the world's diverse beer offerings, the question becomes evident: Why do all Korean beers taste so... similar? Or as some have said, "bland"?

In late 2017, Gordon Ramsay, the fiery celebrity chef best known for his sharp criticism of junior cooks, was seen on Korean television and YouTube raising a glass of Cass beer in a 30-second commercial, calling it a “great beer” and “bloody fresh”. Then he ordered another round. It would seem like the perfect celebrity endorsement for Korea's top beer brand, Cass. But there was a bitter aftertaste of skepticism that followed.

As soon as Ramsay’s endorsement was broadcast, the internet erupted with cynical remarks, both from inside and outside of Korea. Critics were quick to question his sincerity, dismissing his comments as mere ad speak. Wasn't this the same Ramsay who could spot a subpar dish from a mile away, whose scathing reviews could burn as intensely as his kitchen? How could he possibly endorse a beer that's often criticized for its perceived blandness?

However, Ramsay was unfazed, ready with his clever replies. Cass wasn’t about flaunting pricey tags or impressing with complex flavours, said the chef. When pairing a drink with Korean food, Ramsay reasoned, “I don’t look for a wine list with the most expensive beer to go with it. I want a beer that‘s easy, fresh, and something I can drink without having to show off.”

Then he lectured Westerners for their lack of familiarity with spicy Korean food: “Europeans have a very delicate palette. They’re not used to that level of spiciness, so they wouldn‘t understand the importance of cleansing and properly washing food down.” This cuts to the heart of the matter. The allure of Korean beer, like Cass, lies not in overpowering the taste buds with rich flavours, but rather in its simplicity, its ability to play a supporting role to the main act — spicy Korean food.

The real proof, for 88 Bamboo, is always in the pint. And so we will take a firsthand exploration ourselves of South Korea’s biggest brands of beers. Time to pop some bottle caps, folks!

We’ve assembled a lineup of 6 of Korea’s most widely-consumed beers. We’ll be tasting them side by side to find out if mass market Korean beers truly taste the same, and if not, which brand we prefer the most.

Cafri, by Oriental Brewery, 4.2% – Review

When you have a lineup of similar-tasting drinks, the general rule is to begin with the lightest-tasting beer. So as the opener of my lineup, I’m beginning with Cafri - undoubtedly one of the most lightweight beers from the peninsula. It is compared to Mexico's famous Corona, but because of its incredibly light body, it’s colloquially known as “soda beer”.

This light lager is also a budget friendly beer that is popular amongst young folks.

Colour: Hay.

Nose: Greets the senses with quite an invigorating, crisp, citrus-laced aroma, much akin to a Jolly Shandy (lemonade and beer drink), quickly followed by a subtle interplay of cream-like maltiness and sweet honey notes. Quite lovely actually. Although its scent profile doesn't have much complexity, it certainly possesses a very distinct and citrus and cream-forward.

Palate: Refreshing, but this is incredibly light bodied, about as airy as carbonated water. The taste has a gentle mix of citrus, buckwheat, and notes of cereal and roasted barley. Rather dominated by steamed barley notes, and it’s very reminiscent of traditional unsweetened Korean barley tea (Boricha) that you often find in Korean family restaurants. The sweetness also takes a backseat here, contributing to a dry profile akin to a Corona, but much less sugary. And because of the incredibly light body, the distinct minerality is allowed to shine through.

Finish: There’s barely any finish to speak of, but it does leave behind pleasant hints of honey and a dry, crisp note, much like a well-crafted sake.

My Thoughts: I’ll say this in the most objective tone possible: calling something as light as a Cafri a "beer" might set the drinker up for disappointment. But that’s not to say that Cafri isn’t a pleasant sipper. When drinking this, know that its light cereal flavours and watery texture are almost intended to offer an alcoholic iteration of Boricha with a dash of citrus. With that refreshing perspective you’ll realise this drink has a place on the chiller shelves of Korean bars and restaurants.

It's this drink’s thirst-quenching and austere qualities, specifically its dryness and minerality, that make it stand out, more so than its beer-like profile. I do see myself reaching for a Cafri when seeking a refreshing counterbalance to a hearty, spicy meal.

This brew also ticks the boxes for those who are completely new to beer and even for those who dislike the taste of hoppy bitter lagers or IPAs.

Hite Extra Cold, by HiteJinro, 4.5%  – Review

Hite beer, one of the heavyweights of the Korean beer market, stands shoulder to shoulder with Cass in the battle for the top spot.

The brew uses malt but also incorporates rice, contributing a grainy sweetness that makes a brief, yet memorable, appearance on the palate. Hite's flavour profile reportedly benefits from an "Extra Cold" processing technology, where the beer matures and filters just a hair above the freezing point.

Colour: Gold with lively effervescence.

Nose: Rather creamy, with a thicker honeyed profile than the Cafri, accompanied by a slight hint of citrus. However, the bouquet appears a bit jumbled, with no single aroma taking the lead - a contrast to the more distinctive scent profile of Cafri.

Palate: Velvety and slightly heavier bodied than the Cafri – although this is objectively fairly light-bodied. This carries notes of corn-like sweetness, somewhat reminiscent of Heineken, along with the mild brininess of coconut water and a whisper of toasted barley.

Finish: Short and understated. It leaves behind a subtle citrusy note on exit, with very light notes of barley, and a faint echo of hoppiness.

My Thoughts: Hite presents as a rather standard, middle-of-the-road beer, with its somewhat heavier body lending more satisfaction to the drinking. Its flavour profile remains consistent throughout, with no particular note standing out, creating a fairly smooth, if slightly unremarkable, beer. It just doesn’t spring any surprises – whether good or bad - on the drinker.

Its approachability combined with its taste profile that is closer to a traditional beer than Cafri, makes it a safe introductory choice for beer novices. It certainly qualifies as a beer, and it might also be an easier, less hoppy drink than the likes of Tiger Beer or even a Heineken.

Cass, Cold Brewed Beer, by Oriental Brewery, 4.5% ABV – Review

Cass beer, after seizing the crown from Hite in 2011, currently reigns as South Korea's number 1-selling beer brand.

This is a staple at Korean eateries across the globe, from Seoul to Manhattan, and has carved out a strong following amongst younger Korean consumers. Similar to Hite and Cafri, Cass is a light lager tailored for uncomplicated enjoyment. It is also technically an adjunct lager, brewed with hops and lower quantities of malt, which are substituted with corn starch.

Cass is also the beer that became a subject of debate outside Korea following its endorsement by Gordon Ramsay.

Some UK publications have even highlighted severe criticism of Cass beer, labelling it as the “worst beer” in the world. Are such rude comments justified? This is Korea’s number 1 beer brand after all. But we’ll take a sip of this ourselves to find out.

Colour: Yellow gold and lightly effervescent

Nose: A refreshingly crisp and citrus-infused scent profile greets the nose, coupled with a sweet honeyed undertone. A bit brighter and livelier than the Hite, as it evokes a mix of citrus and 7-Up. There’s also a subtle hint of Korean barley tea.

Palate: Very crisp, bright and citrusy. Greets your tongue with a vibrant, zingy citrusy profile, balanced by a good maltiness, barley tea notes and light breadiness. The beer's body is more substantial than Hite, while the velvety texture is buoyed by soft effervescence. It has an overarching sense of brightness and crispness.

Finish: It leaves a clean, light aftertaste of barley and a noticeable touch of hoppiness. The finish also contains a faint yeasty nuance that might remind some of sake or sourdough bread.

My Thoughts: Cass’s selling point for me is its balance between vibrant, slightly zingy citrus notes, barley undertones, and a suitable level of sweetness. Its lightness comparable to that of Hite but definitely does not have Terra's weight. However, Cass’ texture and mouthfeel is commendable — the zesty citrus notes are gentle and do not “bite”, while its soft velvety effervescence is appreciated. This provides an overall solid performance as a light lager, delivering moderate weight and distinct flavour.

Claims that it's the "worst beer in the world" are quite unjust. Personally, given its smooth texture and lively citrus highlights, I can see why Cass edges out the Hite in popularity. It seems Gordon Ramsay and I share some common ground in our light beer preferences!p

Terra, by HiteJinro, 4.6% ABV – Review 

At first glance, Terra appears to be an imported beer from Europe, with a packaging that resembles Heineken’s. But it is brewed by HiteJinro – the same company famous for its iconic green-bottled soju. 

As a brand, Terra emphasises the naturalness of its production. It highlights that it has a deeper, richer flavour due to its use of imported Australian malt from the Golden Triangle, a prime agricultural region in Australia for barley.

Another thing to note is that most Korean commercial beers such as Cafri or Cass would have added carbonation to give the beer more lift and texture. Not in the case of Terra. The carbonation in Terra’s beers is naturally derived from the fermentation process during the brewing.

Colour: Yellow gold, very effervescent with thick layer of foam.

Nose: Of all the Korean beers, Terra's aroma seems to exhibit the most pronounced hop-forward character, supplemented by a sweet cereal note and a touch of fresh grassiness

Palate: Velvety in mouthfeel and remarkably textural. It has lively effervescence and a heftier body. It opens with a pronounced barley note along with prominent sake-like yeastiness – somehow resembling a rice lager despite being brewed with 100% malt. It also has a faint saltiness. There is also an overarching fruitiness - Flavours of pomelo and white grape gradually surface, adding another layer of complexity.

Finish: Moderate length, the flavour profile becomes cleaner towards the end, punctuated by a light bitterness and zestiness of citrus rinds.

My Thoughts: Terra beer stands out as one of the more flavour-rich and complex offerings amongst mass market Korean beers. It might appeal more to long-time beer drinkers who appreciate a touch of body, grassiness, and mild hoppiness in their brew.

Despite its noticeable hoppiness, it's still more approachable and a standard IPA, and could serve as an introduction for newcomers to the world of beer.

OB Beer, 100% Malt Lager by Oriental Brewery, 4.6% – Review

A mainstay since 1952, Oriental Brewery's original OB malt lager captures a rich history within its concoction. In 2019, the brand reintroduced the lovable blue "Lala Bear," a character from the 1980s, adorning its flagship OB Beer.

The endearing plays into the nostalgia felt by their older customers in their 50s, while younger consumers equally find the cheeky label cute. The targeted consumer of this brand seems to be slightly different. While other Korean beers are marketed with pretty, glamorous brand ambassadors (see Kloud below), OB Beer employs the approachability of its mascot and an overall sense of fun.

Of you get your hands on a canned OB Beer – not the bottled version – there’s an amusing feature to look out for. The front side of the beer can features Lala Bear serving a mug of beer. But the reverse side of the can allows you to see the butt of Lala Bear. This attention to detail illustrates the brand's engaging spirit.

Taste-wise, the liquid itself is also a richer brew compared to the light lagers above which feature adjuncts like rice or starch. This is a thick all-malt beer made with imported German hops, made with a recipe that is more traditional and European. In fact, the CEO of Oriental Brewery Chang In-Soo has stated: “We insist that the hops and yeast used in The Premier OB precisely follow the traditional recipe of the Bavarian Imperial House beer.” 

Colour: Gold with light effervescence

Nose: Immediately distinct. It has a dominant rustic and cereal-like aroma reminiscent of butter pound cake. A raw rice fragrance unfolds, introducing a umami rice note, finishing with a gristy essence.

Palate: It has a substantial and thick texture. The initial palate detects a noticeable rice-like yeastiness, harmoniously accompanied by osmanthus florals, maltiness, Danish butter biscuits and honey. Light hints of caramel further contribute to its richness.

Finish: The beer wraps up with a strong malt note reminiscent of malt biscuits and oats. Impressions of jasmine rice are followed by an increasing earthiness and minerality, bringing about a rather unusual, intriguing finish.

My Thoughts: This is our favourite beer of the line-up

It is probably the most flavourful and complex beer of this range. OB Beer delivers a rich malty mouthfeel adorned with a surprising array of contrasting notes – cereal, rustic umami, and earthiness.

This beer embodies distinctiveness and several pleasant surprises in its tasting, and demonstrates a compelling character beyond what I expected. As one of the most unique-tasting Korean beers, this has a unique appeal that could draw in those seeking a different maekju. It should also be fed to anyone who claims that Korean beers all taste the same.

Kloud Original, by Lotte Chilsung, 5% ABV – Review

Hailing from South Korea's prominent soju producer, Lotte Chilsung, Kloud is a beer said to mimic the fluffy consistency of a cloud, as suggested by its name.

Like OB and Terra, it leans towards the robust, European-style lager production, crafted with 100% malt, hop, and yeast. Kloud touts its utilization of high-quality ingredients, including exclusive "noble" hops and yeast sourced from Germany and the Czech Republic.

Kloud also highlights its use of “Original Gravity” brewing method which seemed a little vague to us initially, but some research, we found that this refers to the practice of maintaining the same specific gravity of the wort (unfermented beer) before fermentation, thus avoiding any dilution. This also means that the resulting beer is supposed to be more full-bodied and flavourful.

Since 2016, Kloud's advertising campaign intertwines the brand with the popular Kpop artist, Kim Seolhyun. The placement of the tagline "Good Body" on posters leaves room for interpretation, and it was probably intentionally so. Beer enthusiasts might associate it with the substantial weight of the beer, while average Korean female drinker may perceive the promise of maintaining a slim figure like Seolhyun's despite drinking the beer. Typical Korean men on the other hand may completely forget that they were looking at a beer ad. The genius of ambiguous messaging in ads.

Colour: Gold.

Nose: Quite rich and distinctive. Presents a pleasantly honeyed aroma, gently offset by a light rice umami. It has a unusual trace of lactic acidity that adds a subtle sourness of yoghurt.

Palate: Satisfyingly medium body, characterized by a gently carbonated texture. Malty flavours mingle with the taste of cereal and light buttered toast, with undertones of pomelo and other citrus notes. Its body is slightly less weighty than OB Beer.

Finish: Also mildly intriguing. It leaves a lingering sense of umami notes and earthiness, accentuated by a slightly mushroomy note towards the end.

My Thoughts: Kloud is moderately complex, yet well-rounded, making it a solid choice for casual beer drinkers. It offers an accessible array of flavours that are easy to enjoy, carried by a satisfying weight that distinguishes it from the other Korean light lagers.

The added layer of rice-like umami note is present but not overpowering. In the realm of commercial lagers, Kloud stands out for its above-average complexity, flavour, and texture. The beer does have a decent body compared to other Korean light lagers, but I’d personally still fall back on OB Beer for its richness and contrasting flavours.

Overall Thoughts

I understand the criticisms of Korean beers. Mass market Korean beers do cover a rather narrow spectrum of flavour profiles that cater to the specific preference of having a light bodied refreshing drink to wash down spicy Korean food. Another case in point is Cafri, which is so light in flavour that I frankly feel it stretches the definition of beer, especially since it is too lacking in the characteristic beery taste.

However, this one instance does not entirely represent the Korean beer scene. In fact, apart from the ultra-light beers like Cafri, other brands do exhibit distinctive traits, offering sufficient variation to allow consumers to have a favourite brand.

OB Beer, for instance, stands out with a distinct richness that has won the appreciation of many beer lovers. Its thick malt character rich and contrasting notes of cereal, rustic umami, and earthiness really makes this a compelling brew. Its distinctive character would undoubtedly appeal best to beer enthusiasts, and I highly recommend enthusiasts to give OB Beer a try should they find themselves at a Korean restaurant or visiting Seoul.

For those who are just starting their beer journey or prefer to avoid hop-forward beers, options like Hite and Cass would be a suitable starting point. They provide a gentler introduction to the beer world with their lightness and less pronounced hop profiles. Cafri is a fine drink too, but it should be considered similar to a refreshing beverage (like a Korean barley tea) rather than a beer.

At the end of the day, the modern concept of "beer" can vary widely based on culture and regional brewing traditions. There’s nothing wrong with Koreans liking light, easy-to-drink lagers in a country known for its humid summers and spicy, savoury foods. To the critics: be a little open-minded. There’s little sense in being offended by Korean beer. They have been drunk by Koreans for close to 90 years.

Geonbae!

@CharsiuCharlie