India has a love-hate relationship with alcohol. Once seen as a tool of colonial control and exploitation, some held strong views about alcohol consumption which were deeply influenced by figures like Mahatma Gandhi, the father of Indian independence and a staunch advocate for temperance. Following independence in 1947, the Indian Constitution even enshrined a strong cultural stance discouraging alcohol consumption through a Directive Principle (Article 47) - although not legally binding, this encourages states to restrict alcohol consumption with local law. This legacy persists, with 5 Indian states that prohibit alcohol consumption and several more that have strict restrictions.

Even outside these dry states, navigating the alcohol industry in India is fraught with challenges. Alcohol is heavily taxed, and the movement of alcohol between states is tightly restricted. Steep taxes and inter-state restrictions make running an alcohol business a formidable hill to climb. According to insiders, a large alcohol company such as United Spirits requires a staggering 200,000 licenses annually to keep its lights on.

Yet, humans will be humans, and where there are humans, alcohol always finds its way. India's affair with beer can be traced as far back to the 1820s when Englishman Edward Dyer set up the Kasauli Brewery in the Himalayan foothills. There was a ready market of British troops and civilians in Shimla and elsewhere in Punjab for his products. He began producing a pale ale he named Lion Beer, which is almost certainly Asia's first commercial beer (if you define beer by European standards).

Lion Beer was not just a local success. It roared across the subcontinent and even reached the Empire’s outposts like Sri Lanka, New Zealand, and South Africa, very popular especially with British administrators and troops. It held court for over a century until the 1960s, when new competitors emerged. Though no longer produced in India, Lion Beer's legacy remains alive as it continues to be brewed in Sri Lanka and other former colonies.

By the 1950s to 60s, several more players have entered the scene. One of the most prominent brewers in India is the United Breweries Group which is led by its charismatic chairman, Vijay Mallya. Mallya, known for his flamboyant lifestyle and savvy business acumen, launched Kingfisher Beer in 1978. By now, Mallya had crafted a larger-than-life persona with his lifestyle, often being seen at parties surrounded by beautiful models. He cleverly navigated India's complex web of alcohol regulations, building Kingfisher into the number one beer brand in India.

According to Mallya, his lavish lifestyle was but a strategy to circumvent India's ban on direct alcohol advertising by crafting a larger-than-life profile where he spends time on yachts and rub shoulders with Formula 1 drivers (Mallya previously owned the Force India F1 team). Mallya's marketing strategy, while unconventional, seemed to have worked.

There is a positive brand association between Kingfisher and the vibrant, colourful lifestyle that its founder led. He proudly claimed that he was a brand ambassador in a "media dark" environment. Despite Mallya's self-imposed exile in the UK after being the subject of serious financial crime charges in India, Kingfisher Beer remains the most popular beer in India.

India's stringent alcohol taxation policies also paradoxically fuelled the demand for "strong beers" with higher alcohol content than the typical 5% ABV, a trend that began in the 1960s. Indian consumers, it seems, preferred to maximize their "bang for the buck" when purchasing beers, and high ABV beers provided just that. United Breweries capitalized on this trend by launching Kalyani Black Label, a strong beer named after one of its first breweries in West Bengal. Soon after, Shaw Wallace & Co. introduced Haywards Beer, which quickly became India's best-selling strong beer. Initially, it was Haywards 2000, but the flagship is now Haywards 5000 which boasts a hefty 8% ABV.

The 80s and 90s witnessed a veritable arms race of more strong beers, with brands like Godfather, Bullet, and the hilariously blunt Knock Out vying for the attention of thirsty consumers. These obvious names themselves spoke volumes about the desired effect of these beverages and the Indian beer industry’s view of its target audience.

For decades, craft and artisanship simply wasn’t relevant to brewers in India. The prevailing notion was that taste and branding didn't matter much to the vast majority of Indian beer consumers, who, in the brewers’ minds, simply wanted an affordable high-ABV beer that provided a good buzz.

However, winds of change came when the millennials came of age in the 2010s. Globalization and exposure to international beer culture have sparked a thirst for quality and diversity among the younger consumers – especially well-travelled students. Craft beer brands like Bira 91 showed up, offering a refreshing alternative to mass market strong beers.

Launched in 2015 by Ankur Jain who had studied and worked in the US, Bira 91 took a bet that the Indian market was ready for a higher quality beer that prioritised taste over high alcohol content. Initially, Bira 91 was brewed in Belgium and transported to India due to India's restrictive licensing laws.

However, Bira 91's witbier quickly captured the hearts and palates of beer enthusiasts with its flavourfulness and smooth, low-bitterness profile. This early success paved the way for a shift in production to India to ensure a steady supply of this beloved craft beer. It also indicates the growing discernment of younger Indian beer drinkers who are drinking less but better.

Armed with a heroic thirst today, we’re tasting all 7 of the most common Indian beers I’ve mentioned above.

Kingfisher Strong Beer, 8% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Bright gold with thin foam.

Nose: Straightforward and dense, with a light hoppy note intertwined with malt sweetness and a distinctive yeastiness, with a subtle hint of citrus peel.

Palate: Robust and undeniably strong with a nice thick texture. A burst of grassy hop aroma emerges, though thankfully, the bitterness is restrained. Pronounced maltiness and a slight alcoholic bitter tone that lingers on the palate. As it develops, a barley aroma comes through, accompanied by a robust beer yeastiness. A light drying sensation gradually develops.

Finish: Long and persistent, with a lingering dryness, persistent yeastiness, and a subtle hoppy bitterness.

My Thoughts:

This won’t take you to flavourtown but it could very easily take you to tipsy town.

This beer doesn’t aim to impress with complexity or nuance. It's a strong, robust brew that makes no apologies for its high alcohol content. The hop character is relatively light, making it very easy to drink, especially if you enjoy the dominant yeasty character of beer rather than other cleaner, fruitier commercial options.

While it may not be the most sophisticated beer, it delivers a straightforward, enjoyable experience that will undoubtedly get you where you need to go – so long as you aren’t driving.

Rating: 5/10

Haywards 5000, 8% ABV – Review

Appearance: Bright gold with thin foam.

Nose: Bright, clean, and distinctly malty, with a summer fruit sweetness reminiscent of sweet apple juice. Light white floral notes and a gentle hoppiness round out the nose.

Palate: The first sip reveals a very creamy and smooth effervescent texture, with a touch of gristy grain flavour. The body is medium and well-rounded, supported by a thick effervescence that avoids dryness. The palate is dominated by sweet malt and grain flavours, intertwined with a slightly more restrained yeasty character than Kingfisher.

Finish: Medium in length, with the graininess becoming more pronounced alongside a subtle hoppiness and yeastiness. A touch of synthetic sweet corn and a hint of lemon zest dryness.

My Thoughts:

The texture is quite pleasant and sets this apart from other strong Indian beers. The dominant gristiness or graininess balances well with a simple sweetness, while the heavier flavours mask the alcohol's robustness, preventing it from tasting overly bitter or strong.

My Rating: 5.5/10

Bullet Strong Indian Beer, 8% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Bright gold with very fluffy foam.

Nose: Fresh and light, with a characteristic beery scent of mild hoppiness, subtle malt sweetness and a gentle yeastiness.

Palate: The beer presents a medium body, though a little more watery than expected. Straightforward, opening with a noticeable citric tartness that lingers throughout the palate, followed by light notes of burnt sugar and a grain sweetness, culminating in a fairly bitter aftertaste.

Finish: Medium in length, predominantly hoppy and bitter. A noticeable yet not unpleasant coppery tone develops at the back of the tongue and throat, accompanied by light toasted grain notes. A lingering dryness and warmth are felt in the throat.

My Thoughts:

Bullet seems to a slightly more approachable strong Indian beer, going down relatively easily. The distinctive sourness that emerges at the beginning and persists throughout the palate might be considered imbalanced or a polarizing factor. If you enjoy a touch of tartness in your beer, this might be a refreshing choice.

Rating: 5/10

Knockout Strong Beer, 8% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Deep gold with thin foam.

Nose: A potent malty and corn character, accompanied by a slightly saccharine sweetness. Light coppery tones and a touch of toasted grains.

Palate: Despite its strength, the beer is surprisingly refreshing, though it’s really, really effervescent. The taste profile is clean and smooth, with a mild malty sweetness complemented by a slightly zingy citrus peel and grapefruit sweetness.

Finish: Short with a touch of toasted barley.

My Thoughts:

Knockout perhaps stands the most easy-to-drink strong beer from India. It lacks the harsh alcoholic bite often associated with high-ABV brews and instead delivers a remarkably clean flavor profile. The intense effervescence might be a bit much for some, so allowing the beer to settle before drinking might improve the experience for you. Overall, this offers a refreshing and surprisingly balanced-tasting option for those seeking a strong beer without sacrificing drinkability.

Rating: 5.5/10

Kalyani Black Label, 8% ABV – Review

Appearance: Bright gold with moderate effervescence.

Nose: Mild and clean, with a light citric fragrance intertwined with a clean maltiness and a hint of honey. There's a subtle citrus presence, but the hoppiness is almost nonexistent.

Palate: A moderate effervescence creates a persistent, light tartness throughout the tasting experience. The palate is clean, with a potent mix of tart citrus and a distinct maltiness with robust alcoholic warmth. A sweet maltiness emerges mid-palate alongside a clean yeastiness and a subtle hoppiness.

Finish: Clean and short, leaving behind a lingering aroma of barley. A dry, crisp sensation (karakuchi) tickles the back of the throat, followed up by a persistent fresh and lightly bitter hop character.

My Thoughts:

Kalyani Black Label maintains a refreshing cleanness throughout the tasting experience with no off-flavours. It feels pretty weighty and robust, though it is pretty pleasant in its taste and strikes a good balance with its natural grain sweetness, hop aroma and citrusy tones.

Rating: 6/10

Godfather Super Strong, 8% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Initially sweet, with a slightly saccharine corn note. This is followed by a bright rice lager sweetness, with hints of honey and a light syrupy quality.

Palate: Sweetness continues onto the palate, starting with light notes of apricot and a touch of tinned peaches. A dominant maltiness then takes over, showcasing a rich barley character.

Finish: Moderately short, featuring a lingering toasted grain sweetness, a touch of citrus, and a subtle yeasty character that emerges towards the end.

My Thoughts:

Besides the Kalyani, Godfather is another decently enjoyable offering among the strong Indian brews. I enjoy the substantial body, dominant malt backbone and a layer of fruit complexity in its flavours, which also lean towards the sweeter side.

Rating: 6/10

Bira 91 Lager, 4.5% ABV – Review

Appearance: Bright yellow gold with a thin foam.

Nose: Delightfully malty and fruity. A medley of sweet malt character and toasted corn, with hints of apricot, tinned peaches and cantaloupe. A light citrusy note of orange peel adds a touch of brightness.

Palate: Refreshingly malty and citrusy from the first sip. Bright citrusy sweetness reminiscent of tangerines with light sweetness of honey harmonizing with a light, fresh, toasted grain note. Medium bodied with a pleasant fluffy texture.

Finish: Clean and pleasantly dry, leaving a lingering sensation of sweet citrus. A very mild hop bitterness emerges, along with a touch of toasted grain and a distinctive coffee grounds note that reminds me of a certain dark lager from IKEA .

My Thoughts:

Bira 91 Lager is really good and significantly more enjoyable than the entire range of other Indian beers. It's very flavourful and refreshing, offering a multilayered taste experience that combines maltiness, summer fruits, refreshing citrus, and a satisfyingly dry finish.

If you're looking to dip your toes into the world of Indian beer, this is the beer I would wholeheartedly recommend to anyone starting their Indian beer journey. This is a testament to the evolving Indian beer scene and the growing demand for quality brews that prioritize taste and complexity over sheer alcohol content.

Rating: 8/10

Final Thoughts

I’ve noticed that many of these commercial Indian beers tend to be very high on the malt or grain sweetness to balance out the strong alcoholic flavour. If you're more familiar with lighter and more refined beers, the robust character of most of these Indian beers may not be what you're used to.

With the exception of Bira 91, Kalyani and Godfather, I do think the other “strong beers” from India do leave a lot to more to be desired in the flavour department. However, it’s worth remembering that there is a place for them. These beers are super crushable for the high ABV. They're designed for easy drinking and they’re appropriate for casual drinking sessions or while you’re watching Netflix and aren’t paying too much attention to the nuances of flavour anyway. They’re also an affordable choice when you want a no-frills alcoholic beverage that delivers a good buzz.

Ultimately, the choice is yours, but here are my recommendations: If you're going for taste, just go for Bira 91. If you’re looking for a very easy-to-drink commercial strong beer, go for the more refreshing Knockout, or the richer Kalyani or Godfather. Make sure they’re cold, too!

@CharsiuCharlie