Calvados belongs in the leagues of the great French brandies. Produced in Normandy, specifically within the areas designated by the Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) regulations, it might be a tradition carried on in smaller scale compared to Cognac and Armagnac, but is very much alive and well thanks to the likes of Christian Drouin that has made sure to cusp both heritage and modernisation.

As is the case for eaux-de-vies, Calvados too is fermented with apples or pear juices, which are then distilled in copper pot stills (either a double or single-continuous distillation depending on region). Typically aged for two or more years, the age of each batch greatly influences the taste and aromas of the spirit.

(Image source: Christian Drouin)

The story of one of the great distilleries producing this particular brandy starts way back in the 1960s. That particular year, Christian Drouin senior had a farm full of cider-apple trees on the Gonneville Hills. 

Naturally, like any Frenchman with a farm full of cider-apple trees, he decided he wanted to make his own Calvados with them. 

To that end, he employed the help of a licensed distiller named Pierre Pivet in the northern part of Pays d’Auge. Like how all great things start, he spent the most part of the first twenty years ironing out the kinks while distilling his cider production.

The Calvados were matured in various casks such as sherry and port. Those casks were aged in old half-timbered buildings along with several batches of very old Calvados he purchased from reputable estates that were sold.

(Image source: Christian Drouin)

In 1969, Christian Drouin Jr.  partnered up with his father. Having spent 10 years abroad, he had a desire to bring the family’s product onto the world stage. And that he did. He had to wait a bit until 1979 though, as only then were stocks considered sufficient for marketing to start.

With a focus on age and quality, the distillery’s products were soon becoming rather popular across the globe. To meet rising demands, the distillery soon transferred production to a 17th century farm called Coudray Rabut in 1990. Today the Christian Drouin house is aided by the third generation, Guillaume Drouin who works with his father to create their various cuvees and continue to have an eye on growing the family business.

The house's two family orchards boast up to 30 types of apples, with flavor profiles such as sharp, bittersharp, sweets and bittersweets. The apples are harvested on the ground when sufficiently ripe between September and November to be pressed into juice.

 (Image source: Christian Drouin) 

The apples once crushed are put through an adapted pneumatic press. A champagne-type pressing method extracts only 65% of the juice, which greatly removes most of any bitterness or tartness.

After a double distillation process where varying amounts of "head" and "tails" (The spirit that comes out first and last respectively, known to be inconsistent and generally includes unwanted material) are cut off according to cider quality. 

(Image source: Christian Drouin)

The cellars in which the Calvados are aged contain small re-used casks from spirits such as sherry and port. 

The smaller sizes are meant to facilitate exchanges between the air, wood and spirit for more nose and aroma transformations, while old casks provide color and body while limiting the spirits’ uptake of bitter tannins.

The amount of evaporation also remains at 4%, higher than the average 2% common in Normandy. This is also done with the goal of increased smoothness and concentration in mind.

Fast forward a decade or so, and Christian Jr’s son, Guillame Drouin, has become the third generation continuing production. The pair manage the distillery together, from blending to exports, and don’t show any sign of stopping. 

And neither shall we, so let's get started on three offerings by this esteemed distillery.

Christian Drouin Le Blanche - Review

Le Blanche (French for “white") is Christian Drouin’s offer of a “new start” to the historical way of imbibing Calvados. 

Back in the 1940s, Calvados from the Pays d’Auge region had no minimum age requirement required before it could be called Calvados. Before the two-year age requirement was put into place, many drank the spirit directly after it was distilled and while it was still colorless, hence the name. 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Clear

Aroma: Crispness of dehydrated apples sprinkled with fresh citrus, with a faint bit of white grape on the edges. It starts off somewhat spirite-y, almost the same high toned quality as gin. Light yet sweet floral undertones that are gently reminiscent of sloe gin. After some time this develops into flower garlands with get musty fallen apples.

Taste: Not as sweet as it smells. Gentle herbaceous notes beneath a very bright, fresh start. Doesn’t quite linger around. 

Finish: Oddly enough, a brief flash of peat and smoke accompanies a very dry, long finish that leaves you smacking your lips.

My Thoughts

Definitely a very fresh, lively spirit. Energetic and in-your-face. Much like most white eau-de-vie, it comes off as a mix of gin and crisp mineral-water. A longer finish that reminds of apple/pear skins is quite welcome, although the acidity does remind you of its obvious youth. Simple and straightforward in flavour, it noses nice upon first contact, but turns quite syrupy and medicinal which again points me in the direction of its use case being for cocktails as opposed to sipping.

My guess is it might work best as a cocktail mixer, and probably not something to sip on neat aside from curiosity derived reasons. It is however, still a delightful way to experience the how the start of all aged Calvados tastes.

Christian Drouin VSOP - Review

This particular offering includes a blend of other spirits aged in former fortified wine casks.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Gold 

Aroma: Bouquet of green apples and pears, backed up by a richer apple pie filling, some cardamom and nutmeg spices, along with a little bit of melted butter. There’s a trace of balsamic notes outlining it. 

Taste: Lighter bodied, more on green apples and pears, more of that apple pie filling, a slightly zingy acidity of apple cider vinegar. 

Finish: Clean, with the spices left in the aftertaste, as well as aromas of a mixed basket of green and red apples. 

My Thoughts

This has an altogether richer and more saturated fruitiness, it’s pretty aromatic and has a decent bit of complexity of fruits, spices and acidity. It is lighter bodied which keeps it approachable. What really stood out was the note of warm melted butter that gave it a little bit more richness. That said, I do wish it were richer and fuller on the palate, with more depth.

Christian Drouin XO  - Review

The six-year aged offering from the distillery, This blend contains some spirits aged in former fortified wine casks and brandy casks, adding further sweetness and complexity.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Lighter Shade of Bright Gold

Aroma: Cinnamon-dusted apple slices atop baked apple confectionery. Overripe apple and pear scents can be noted along with subtle almonds and oak, lined with a balmy floral note after time. Definitely the most mellow so far.

Taste: A lively apple presence from the get-go, with spices and a surprising note of vanilla. Warm spices and a nice silky mouthfeel that reminds me of mulled wine.

Finish: Long and just a little bit dry. Baked apple notes turn bittersweet with a mix of oak and spice. 

My Thoughts

A comely Calvados for any just venturing into Calvados (trust me, because I’m one myself). It balances its apple sweetness well with just enough richness and complexity that it remains entertaining even after the first few sips. I did appreciate an unexpected aroma that somewhat reminded me of old books. 

To Sum Up

Having tried the range of Christian Drouin from unaged to middle aged and well-aged, I got a sense of the progression of the wood imparting its flavours and how time mellows, enriches and deepens the Calvados.

Either for for those that want to understand Calvados more, or simply those who just to test your palate with its more youthful, energetic flavors, the Le Blanche is suited for the adventurous, or those intrigued at what an unaged Calvados might present in its purest without any wood flavours. On the other hand, selections such as the VSOP and XO are definitely more inline with the more familiar Calvados profile. Here we not only see the effect age has, but also that Christian Drouin’s signature is more forward apple note, with bright acidity and a touch of balsamic, with the wood influence being kept at bay.

My personal favourite was the XO which naturally imparted the most richness and depth, and had more complexity to keep being entertaining.

Lok Bing Hong A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of coherence a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.