Some history buffs would argue that “Chinese” isn’t one language, but a tapestry of tongues as distinct as German is to English. Speakers of one may occasionally recognise words or phrases in the other, but overall, they are mutually unintelligible languages separated by mountains and rivers for centuries, with Cantonese and Shanghainese that developed in the rugged south while Mandarin reigned supreme up north.

Baijiu is just like the Chinese language. Rather than being one spirit, it’s actually a huge family of diverse spirits made with different ingredients and processes, with at least four sub-categories. They range from candied and fruity to delicate and floral, to bold, savoury, and everything in between.

What is Baijiu?

Think of baijiu as the Chinese answer to white rum or mezcal. It is a colourless spirit intense in its aroma, flavour and sometimes funkiness.

Early forms of baijiu became widely distilled in China since as early as the 13^th century. But the process of distilling baijiu looks radically different from that of “European spirits.”

 

While whiskies, rums, brandy, shochu and other spirits are distilled from an aqueous mixture of grain soup or filtered malt extract, baijiu is distilled from a damp soil-like mixture of sorghum, rice, wheat, corn or even barley.

During distillation, hot steam is passed through the fermented grains, extracting flavour and aroma compounds, which are then condensed in a cooling tower. The distillate is then tasted for quality, blended, and aged in sealed ceramic jars for about 3 to 4 years to allow the alcohol to “breathe”.

 

Distillation at Wuliangye Distillery.

 

The aged distillate is then tasted by master blenders and blended. At Moutai Distillery for instance, the blending process is particularly elaborate. Up to 200 batches of distillates get tasted and blended to create the desirable flavour and texture of Moutai.

Four Fundamental Aromas of Baijiu

Like we’ve said, baijiu actually refers to a diverse range of spirits with very different taste profiles. The most popular brands of baijiu tend to fall within Four Fundamental Aromas (四大香型) each a reflection of regional traditions, fermentation processes and native grains.

 

 

Strong Aroma (浓香) hails from Sichuan province in Southwest China, particularly the city of Luzhou. Light Aroma (清香) on the other hand is tied to the Northern Chinese Shanxi province, particularly the ancient Xiang Hua Village in Fenyang city. Sauce Aroma (酱香) hails from the legendary Maotai village in Guizhou province of Southern China. Rice Aroma (米香) comes from the South-Eastern provinces of Guangxi and Guangdong, where rice cultivation is abundant.

What makes a good baijiu

Whether it’s fruity, floral or earthy, a well-made baijiu will embody well-balanced aromas and a clean fragrance, without mustiness or excessive bitterness. It should also be smooth and approachable for its ABV and go down the palate without harshness.

Given how baijiu is regularly drunk by the entire bottle in China, baijiu makers even challenge themselves to make baijiu so high quality they cause minimal hangovers the following day. The thinking is that the refined distillation process should have ensured that it is free of impurities that lead to the typical discomforts that visit upon us after a night of heavy drinking.

 

 

To verify this, some baijiu producers have been known to conduct focus group tests where they get people drunk on their product, and then follow up with surveys the next day to assess how they feel. If surveyed participants report feeling clear-headed and able to carry out their tasks, it’s taken as confirmation that the baijiu has been well-crafted.

Now that we've laid the groundwork, let's dive into tasting a couple of baijiu. Just as one wouldn't generalize about all wines or whiskies, with such an astounding array of flavours and aromas in baijiu, it's essential to venture beyond a single bottle and explore this vast world. To guide your journey through this diverse spirit, we've curated a selection of well-known bottlings that you're likely to encounter while shopping for baijiu.

SAUCE AROMA (酱香) – SOUTHERN CHINA

Kweichow Feitian Moutai 贵州飞天茅台酒, 53% ABV – Review 

 

Moutai is the flagship of Sauce Aroma baijiu, renowned for its rich, savoury aroma, often likened to soy sauce, and is intrinsically linked to the town of Maotai in Guizhou Province. Here, the primary ingredients are sorghum and water from the Chishui River. The fermentation process, carried out in underground stone pits, is influenced significantly by the humid and temperate climate of the region, perfect for crafting Sauce Aroma baijiu.

Interestingly, the Kweichow Moutai Group operates the world’s most valuable liquor distillery, with an estimated value surpassing even the combined worth of Diageo plc's 30 whisky distilleries. A bottle of Moutai is arguably a Veblen Good in Asia, a luxury product meant for conspicuous consumption. 

It is more than a mere drink, but a symbol of respect and prestige in Chinese high society. It’s a fact underscored in 1972 when Chinese Premier Zhou Enlai toasted US President Richard Nixon with this esteemed spirit. It wasn't just a drink; it was a diplomatic gesture, marking a pivotal moment in international relations and the end of the Cold War.

 

 

Jokes aside, such glowing endorsements by people of influence cannot be purchased with any sum of money. They also made Moutai the brand of choice for many elites in Asia, a must-have at business banquets – not merely a symbol of wealth or power, but also a clear message that you hold your guest in high regard.  

Here we have an entry range Kweichow Moutai Baijiu. This has been aged for about 4 to 5 years, blended with a small component of 10-years-old baijiu.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Fresh, piquant, estery and savoury. The aroma fills the room from the moment it’s poured. Opens with fresh Asian peaches and aromatic white chocolate leading the way, followed by a light grassy funk and hints of overripe banana and plum. After it breathes for a bit, a delicate caramelised nuttiness emerges, reminiscent of black sesame syrup, sweet Peking duck soy sauce, the light umami of toasted seaweed-wrapped rice crackers and a subtle note of dry black tea leaves.

Palate: Crisp, complex, savoury and smooth. Opens with sesame, white chocolate, and hay, accompanied by the sweetness of honey and nectarines intensifying, accompanied by a slightly solvent kerosene note that lingers due to the spirit's viscous, oily texture. Aromatic grains reminiscent of barley or steamed rice add depth and complexity, seamlessly integrated with a moderate, whisky-like warmth and spice that's counterbalanced by the Moutai's rich flavourfulness. While there's a heat and spice comparable to a cask-strength whisky, it's well balanced by the overall richness of flavour.

Finish: Long, distinct, and enduring. It’s got a fading nuttiness of lotus seed paste that transitions into a warm, lingering umami earthiness, echoing the sweet Asian peaches, before culminating in a zesty, prickly dryness and warmth that lingers at the back of the throat.

 

 

My Thoughts:

The Feitian Moutai is a bold, savoury, and complex spirit, flavourful yet elegant in its own unique way. There is a bit of heat and intensity may slightly scare newcomers, but no more so than a whisky of the same ABV. In fact, it's precisely this boldness of flavour that I expect many spirits enthusiasts - especially of cask strength rum or whisky- to adore.

Objectively, it's an aromatic and delicious baijiu. It’s also got sufficient boldness to be paired with various hearty Asian dishes.

My Rating: 8.5/10

Click here to read: How Does Rare Moutai Taste Like? $500 vs $1000 vs $2000 Moutai Taste Test 

STRONG AROMA (浓香) – SOUTHWEST CHINA

Luzhou Laojiao Tequ Grade Baijiu (泸州老窖特曲), 52% ABV – Review

 

Next, there’s the Strong Aroma (浓香) baijiu, the most widely-sold baijiu category in China. Without a doubt, these baijiu have the most intense flavour profiles, often having a robust body with potent notes of overripe tropical fruit (something of a banana or pink guava funk), and the spiciness of star anise and white pepper.

The secret to the intensity and sweetness lies in the fermentation process. While Jamaican rum has dunder pits, the baijiu world has something similar called LaoJiao (老窖). These Laojiaos at China's oldest operational baijiu distillery that began back in 1573 hold profound significance and prestige. "Laojiao" is incorporated into the brandname as a reference to the ancient fermentation pits that the distillery is renowned for, some of which have been continuously active for more than four centuries.

 

 

These pits have an essential role, hosting a thriving microbiome that acts as the secret ingredient to the liquor's distinctive aroma and complexity. Cooked grains and the fermentation starter are placed in the pits. The starch in the sorghum, the primary grain for baijiu, is transformed into sugar, then alcohol, through simultaneous saccharification and fermentation. During this process, the microbes contribute to a series of aldehyde, acid, and ester formations, further enriching the bouquet of fragrances. As the pits mature, the microorganisms multiply, enhancing the fragrance of the resultant liquor.

Boasting over 1,600 fermentation pits, Luzhou Laojiao inherits some of these from other distilleries, including their prized over-400-year-old 1573 National Cellars (they use a classier term, "cellar", to refer to their pits), which have been fermenting grains since the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644). This undoubtedly cements Luzhou Laojiao's status as the originator of the Strong Aroma baijiu category.

Luzhou Laojiao's fermentation pits are held in high esteem within the baijiu industry, recognised for being the oldest and best-preserved. From these fermentation pits, the distillery releases a range of product lines of various grades. 

Baijiu made from the distillery's younger cellar pits are labelled Luzhou Laojiao "Erqu" or "Sanqu" - meaning "Second Grade" or "Third Grade". A yet higher grade expression, made from pits aged for several decades is called Luzhou Laojiao "Touqu" - meaning "Head Grade".  

The expression we have today comes at the next level, calling itself Luzhou Laojiao "Tequ", or "Special Grade" - meaning that it had been made from pits that are over 50 years of age. 

So let's give this Special Grade product a taste.

Tasting Notes  

Nose: Sweet, balanced and delightfully clean. Lush florals interwoven with sour plums heady scent and funkiness of overripe peaches and lychees. Underneath the fruitiness, there’s also a layer of freshness and yeastiness reminiscent of clear daijinjyo.

Palate: Refreshing, sweet and mellow. Opens with an expansive and distinctive fruitiness found in the nose – once again plums, overripe peaches and lychees all at once, alongside light nuances of a mellow earthiness and anise seed in the middle. Texture-wise, the entry is smooth and the mouthfeel medium-bodied.

Finish: Long and lingering, a rather intense rose-water like aroma intertwined with a delicate sweetness that fades ever so gradually.

 

 

My Thoughts

Rich, harmonious and very well-coordinated – like a troop of Russian ballerinas or Chinese synchronised swimmers.

This Luzhou Laojiao Tequ Grade baijiu stands out due to its remarkable flavour equilibrium. In my experience, cheaper Strong Aroma baijiu inevitably seem a bit contrived due to some lack of flavour coordination or proportionality. Certain dimensions could overpower others. This could be too much sweetness for instance, or too abrupt “cellar fragrance” that interferes with the quiet enjoyment of the spirit. In contrast, this bottle is very harmonious, very well-coordinated. The various flavours are well integrated and play out like a proper orchestra – rich in aroma and sweetness balanced by a mellow, very acceptable cellar fragrance.

Compared to others products from Luzhou Laojiao Distillery, the Tequ is fresher and brighter (think biting into overripe peaches).

My Rating: 7.5/10

Ming River Sichuan Baijiu (Luzhou Laojiao Distillery), 45% ABV – Review

 

It all started in 2014, the first baijiu cocktail bar was opened in China – Capital Spirits. Back then, a baijiu cocktail bar was an avant garde idea. Although the spirit has already been widely consumed neat throughout China, from wedding banquets to business meetings, the realm of baijiu remained largely separated from the high-end cocktail bartending world. American Derek Sandhaus - one of the most well-known published baijiu writers outside of China, started Capital Spirits with four other friends passionate friends to help the worlds of baijiu meet the world of cocktails.

 

(Source: Alcademics)

 

On hindsight, there's no surprises that the first baijiu cocktail bar in China would have been a hit. The Beijing bar quickly became a runaway success, drawing in fashionable native Chinese drinkers as well as expats looking to experience a taste of the iconic Chinese spirit interpreted in a cocktail.

The global consumption of spirits has been gradually growing through the years, while discerning and adventurous drinkers began looking to explore high quality liquor from various cultures. Finding success with his baijiu bar, Derek saw through the Matrix and noticed something interesting.

Although major Chinese baijiu brands were being exported around the world, they were overwhelmingly only consumed by overseas Chinese communities. No existing baijiu brand spent any effort to market themselves to mainstream American, Canadian and European drinkers in the West. It wasn't so much that these baijiu brands weren't interested in expanding their consumer base - baijiu just suffered from a PR problem amongst Westerners. Many encounter some undeniably bad "convenience store" budget baijiu, and decided to write off the entire category as a pungent and undrinkable “firewater” - more like a moonshine than an elegant spirit. 

 

Bill Isler, Derek Sandhaus and Matthias Heger, the founding team of Ming River photographed alongside vats of aging baijiu (Source: Ming River)

 

Already skilled in educating English-speaking audiences about baijiu, Derek was confident about his ability to market a high quality baijiu brand to a Western audience. And so in 2018 Derek and the partners of Capital Spirits decided to create a new baijiu brand in partnership with Luzhou Laojiao.  

Now, Luzhou Laojiao is already famous within China and around overseas Chinese communities as one of the best Strong Aroma baijiu brands. But let's be honest: the packaging looks quite tacky on the shelf beside a bottle of Yamazaki 12 or a Macallan.

Derek's team conceived of an entirely new brand name - Ming River - with a classy grey label and a weighty, crystal clear glass bottle. While most original expressions from Luzhou Laojiao come in at about 52% ABV, Ming River comes in at just 45% ABV, making for a lighter baijiu. Presumably, a lower ABV baijiu would be a little more palatable or more accessible to a Western audience. Let's give this a try! 

Tasting Notes 

Nose: Heady and complex. Starts off with a distinct note of sweet-tart lychees, followed closely by citrus. As it unfolds, there's a growing presence of mellow soy sauce and also an underlying earthiness that reminds you of fresh clay and soil, concluding with a clean, mineral touch.

Palate: Clean and sweet, with a delightful oily texture. It's dominated by the bright, fruity flavors of cream soda and lychee, even reminiscent of lychee cream cake. There's the typical dry sourness often associated with baijiu, it’s noticeably subdued in this variant, making this all the better for someone who finds most baijiu too pungent and esoteric at times.

Finish: The tail end gets even more interesting. Light industrial grease and the solventy note of a marker pen, these "industrial" notes are mostly are grounded by a pleasant sweetness and umami of soy sauce and bonito. Underpinning all of this is a faintly medicinal touch, almost akin to ginseng, giving it an earthy, rooty end.

 

 

My Thoughts:

A high quality people-pleaser of a baijiu! Honestly, this feels so much lighter and cleaner than the usual Luzhou Laojiao baijiu.

It's refreshingly easy to drink with absolutely no unpleasant off-notes or burn, and yet also has a nice layered sweetness like a good baijiu. It's clear that this is a baijiu that's not just for the seasoned aficionados but also an excellent (and I have to say quite a high quality) starting point for those new to the world of baijiu. While it may not have the same degree of potency that Strong Aroma baijiu buffs crave, it makes for a very welcoming spirit for new drinkers without compromising on the basic traits of a genuine baijiu.

My Rating: 7.5/10

Wuliangye (五粮液) Baijiu, Wuliangye Yibin, 52% ABV - Review 

 

Although a bottle of Wuliangye might seem quite unassuming on the liquor aisle, this is the second most valuable baijiu brand in China, trailing behind only the Kweichow Moutai in terms of brand equity and recognition.

The vast majority of baijiu varieties rely on one or two grains as their foundation (typically sorghum). Wuliangye, however, has a unique recipe that incorporates five distinct grains: sorghum, rice, glutinous rice, wheat, and corn. This intricate blend was meticulously refined by generations of distillers in the city of Yibin in Sichuan Province since the 11th century using a special microbial culture that could make sense of all these five grains. Thanks to its extended fermentation process that spans several months, the highly aromatic baijiu is classified by experts as a Strong Aroma baijiu (浓香).

 

 

The origin of Wuliangye reaches back nearly a thousand years into the time of the flourishing Northern Song Dynasty which also saw the invention of gunpowder and the compass in China. Around the 11^th century, a nobleman named Yao Junyu experimented with a multi-grain baijiu formula using rice, sorghum, glutinous rice, buckwheat, and millet. His innovative spirit yielded a libation that quickly captivated the region, its allure even immortalised in the verses of local bards and poets.

 

 

Yibin city’s brewing tradition continued to flourish through the Ming Dynasty (14^th to 17^th century) when the Chen family established the Wendefeng Distillery in the same locale. Building upon Yao's recipe, they too crafted a multi-grain liquor, but with a twist. Portuguese traders had brought corn from the Americas to China. The Chens replaced buckwheat with corn as they felt it made a more refined and balanced spirit. At this juncture, this baijiu made according to the Chen Family’s secret recipe was still known by a rather uninspired name - "miscellaneous grain alcohol" (杂粮酒).

The turning point came in the early 20th century, when a Qing Dynasty scholar, upon sampling the spirit from Wendefeng Distillery, deemed the name "miscellaneous grain spirit" too prosaic and unfitting of what he described as a baijiu that was “as smooth as jade”. He proposed a more evocative title – Wu Liang Ye which translates to something like "Five Grain Spirit." This proposed name resonated with the distillery's owner and has remained the spirit's official name ever since.

 

The city of Yibin in Sichuan, China.

 

In 1952, under the Chinese government’s direction, eight of Yibin's most renowned baijiu distilleries including Wendefeng Distillery were ordered to merge into a conglomerate. The Chen Family’s secret recipe was passed on to the conglomerate, which was eventually renamed Wuliangye Distillery.

While the precise details of the Chen Family’s secret recipe remain a closely guarded secret, Wuliangye’s production philosophy is deeply rooted in the Eastern Five Elements philosophy which emphasizes harmony with nature. This manifests in respect for the unique local terroir of Yibin City, including its climate and indigenous microbiome. The distillers believe that these natural elements, when combined with time-honoured techniques and the five-grain recipe, contribute to Wuliangye's distinctive character and complexity.

Compared to a Sauce Aroma baijiu (Kweichow Moutai for instance), Wuliangye tends to have a sweeter and fruitier backdrop, without the intense umami and nutty bitterness of a Moutai. Compared to other famous Strong Aroma baijiu, Wuliangye stands out for its cleaner, more pronounced sweetness that sets it apart.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Beyond the initial high toned prickle of rubbing alcohol or lighter fluid, there's a sort of starchiness to it, somewhat similar to vodka. In that sense, there's a richness to it that comes off as vanillic and creamy. What immediately came to mind was shaving cream liquid when it's not foamed up.

Palate: There's a good intensity here, if you know what you're getting into then it's actually not too overwhelming. It's a nice heat, in fact, beyond the exaggeration of many folks. It moves fairly quickly and is striking in its complexity. There's an initial farm-y funkiness of natto (fermented soybean), it's alittle petrolic of industrial machinery, which then moves into this incredibly deep and rich crystalline sweetness of honey, tanghulu (candied fruits), yellow raisins, green grapes, apricots, sugared pineapples - all of which seriously soaked in maltose candy. It's ridiculously vibrant, bright and also rich.

Finish: Into the finish, there's a very satisfyingly deep warmth it gives, with more on black licorice candy, sarsaparilla, cardamom, anise and aniseed spices. It's earthy and of herbal roots. There's more on eucalyptus and spearmint as well.

  

My Thoughts

This was honestly incredibly vibrant and with great power and intensity to its flavours - this was truly phenomenal! While it was alittle muted and varnish-y on the nose, the palate brought forth so much vibrance of candied fruits, it's just incredibly spectacular. It was just candied fruits and maltose candy all around, so well-expressed, big and bold flavours that are also at the same time crystalline and so detailed. It's got such great structure, it's no surprise how successful Wuliangye is. On the finish, it goes beyond other baijiu's of the same Nongxiang category, by delivering more earthiness and herbal root-y qualities that were almost chewy but also very rich and added even more complexity to the mix. It has an incredibly long finish, with a deep warmth that was again was testament to its power and strength, with such presence.

If there were any aspect I did not enjoy so much about it, it would be that sort of fermented soybean note that happens right at the start on the palate - but that's just a matter of personal preference, and it really lasted for less than a split second. So well worth it, I'd say.

My Rating: 8/10

National Cellar 1573 Baijiu (国窖1573), 52% ABV – Review

 

We have already covered the Luzhou Laojiao Tequ expression. From the same distillery, this expression is called the National Cellar, or "Guojiao", and it is arguably the most famous core product line from Luzhou Laojiao. It is named after the claimed founding year of the distillery and is considered a prestige baijiu due to the fact that it is made from fermentation pits that have been continuously fermenting grains for over 100 years.

While the idea of consuming something from a 100-year-old pit may not sound appetising, this expression is said to be one of the most candied and fruity baijiu expressions ever made.

Let's give this a taste.

Tasting Notes 

Nose: Presents a fresh, floral, and surprisingly mellow aroma. Inviting and fruity sweet notes of white peaches and grilled pineapples emerge clearly and set the tone.

Palate: Bright, pure and intense. Opens up with a fantastic burst of candied sweetness alongside an almost citrusy or effervescent tanginess, reminiscent of Sprite and Sakuma Drops, especially the Lemon (translucent colour) and Pineapple (yellow) hard candies.

The flavours soften into a moderately tangy mouthfeel, gentle spices, mellow floral sweetness, complemented by a fleeting bitterness and a hint of pine resin – a sensation that might best be captured by the Mandarin flavour term 'gan' (甘). Amid the exceptionally candied notes, a very subtle cellar fragrance ("窖香" (jiào xiāng)) emerges, lending a noticeable but rather quiet contrast in the palate.

Finish: Very lasting and pleasant. The initial subtle dryness persists, moving into lightly tangy sour plums and a twist of honey in the mouth. Some liken this to good grappa and I do see some resemblance.

 

 

My Thoughts

A gorgeous Champagne-like vibrance. It stands as an epitome for Strong Aroma baijiu amongst the non-limited edition expressions (there are yet rarer ones that are priced in the thousands). It isn’t very complex, but the sheer candied quality would impress any drinker and more than compensates for this.

This is an expression that you can confidently offer a new drinker, and if they wouldn't take it, you can be sure that baijiu isn't their thing. 

My Rating: 8.5/10

LIGHT AROMA (清香) – NORTHERN CHINA 

Fenjiu Qinghua 20 Years Old Baijiu (汾酒青花20年), 53% ABV - Review 

 

There’s a general consensus amongst baijiu connoisseurs that Strong Aroma baijiu is the most desirable and prestigious style among the four styles. On the other hand, Light Aroma baijiu is generally ranked last in desirability due to its mild and light fragrance, and comparatively simpler flavour profile. Yet as baijiu gains international prominence, Light Aroma baijiu is poised to have the most international appeal. And it's really due to its approachability.

Often regarded as the embodiment of the perfect Light Aroma-style baijiu, Fenjiu is one of the oldest brands to have existed amongst the baijiu brands of China, and is described as the “Founder of the baijiu industry”. In fact, Fenjiu’s founding predates the iconic Moutai (which Henry Kissinger loved) by several centuries. 

New Westernised drinkers may get knocked off their socks by the potency of most baijiu styles, Fenjiu’s Light Aroma style is like a mild and easy-going neighbour who’s always a joy to hang out with. This mellowness makes it very easy to drink amongst drinkers of whisky, brandy and rum outside of China, and it is this growth opportunity that Fenjiu – the best of the Light Aroma category – seems to be positioning itself for.

 

 

Fenjiu is made from mainly sorghum and a smaller proportion of barley and other grains, and double-distilled like many Scotch whiskies. The spirit is also mixed with pure spring water drawn from the Gouzhuang spring near the village, resting below a nearby forest. All of this magic unfolds in a distillery complex that is mind-bogglingly huge – a whopping 18 square kilometres which, for perspective, is 10 times the size of the Macallan Distillery!

What we're reviewing below is the Fenjiu Qinghua (or the name “Qinghua” is a reference to Blue Floral Pottery), the flagship range of premium baijiu from the distillery. The baijiu had been mainly aged in traditional ceramic earthen vessels and aged for a full 20 years for flavours to be integrated and mellowed. 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Pure, refined and verdant. Brims with a gentle citrusy zest, green appley fragrance and subtle notes of tart umeshu, blending harmoniously with an unmistakable coastal note akin to that found in certain Scotches (such as Old Pulteney or Caol Ila).

Palate: Refined, mellow and well-balanced. Pleasantly oily and velvety texture. Opens very clean and pure with a mellow sweetness of water chestnuts, followed by a light tinge of sour plums. The finale of the palate unfolds with striking minerality, reminiscent of fresh spring water and brine.

Finish: Unceasingly long, clean and perpetuating with a mild aroma sweet soy sauce gently fading in a memorable signature.

 

 

My Thoughts:

Delightfully refined and really accessible. While some may be apprehensive of baijiu to some degree, this is indeed one of the lightest and most refined, with a character that can readily be appreciated by enthusiasts of Scotch, Japanese whiskies, or sake. Despite a rather straightforward profile, this baijiu presents a great interplay of interlaced flavours that leave behind a lingering, pleasant memory.

This is an excellent choice to share with those seeking baijiu for the first time.

My Rating: 8/10

Red Star Er Guo Tou (红星二锅头), 56% ABV – Review 

 

You don’t truly know baijiu until you’ve tasted a Red Star baijiu.

This bad boy comes straight from Beijing and because of its history, you can say that it is the People's baijiu. Wherever a liquor store is in China, you can bet that the Red Star would be shining bright along the aisles.

Now, you might be wondering about the tongue-twister, "Er Guo Tou," which translates as "Heads of the Second Pot." It's not just a quirky name; it's a nod to this particular baijiu's traditional distillation process, which has roots tracing back hundreds of years in Beijing. Fun fact – this process is pretty similar to how they make Scotch single malt.

 

Hong Kong actors Tony Leung and Maggie Cheung photographed having a hotpot dinner with Chinese beers and if you look closely enough, a small bottle of the iconic Er Guo Tou (Source: Russel Wong Photography)

 

It all starts with sorghum, barley, and peas that get fermented. Then the mixture is distilled not once, but twice, in traditional pot stills. But it's not just about distilling; it's also about making the right cuts. Just like in single malt distilleries, the initial and final parts of the spirit (the “heads” and “tails”) get the boot, leaving behind the “heart” of the spirit. This method of cutting from the second pot gives Er Guo Tou its unique name – "Heads of the Second Pot."

This baijiu has roots as deep as the founding of Communist China. The Red Star Distillery was established by the government in 1949, the same year that the People’s Republic of China was formed. Its directive wasn't to be profitable – it was to make Er Guo Tou-style baijiu accessible. Back then, the general public lived in poverty. To ensure that they were able to afford Er Guo Tou-style baijiu, the government put a cap on the price of Red Star’s baijiu to ensure everyone could afford liquor and could be kept buzzed and happy. From that time on, for over half a century, Red Star has been churning out dozens of baijiu products of varying ABVs that don't break the bank, firmly cementing its position as the leader in Beijing's low-end baijiu market.

Today, we're taking a look at the Red Star Er Guo Tou 56% ABV. So buckle up as we dive into a tasting of this legendary liquor.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Mellow, fresh and very earthy. A notable earthiness immediately apparent from the start, mingled with a distinct Chinese medicine nuances and a light cereal note that rounds out the edge. However, the experience doesn't remain tame, with unusual edges poking through towards the end, suggestive of a fresh coat of paint or even nail polish remover.

Palate: Also quite complex on the palate. Opens with a light medicinal bitterness that shares the stage with a balanced saltiness and an understated sweetness akin to cloves. Notes of tea, steamed peas, and a grainy malty musk. Some mild heat is also present on the back of the palate.

Finish: Moderate length, leaving a lingering bitter trace of chocolate and traditional Chinese herbs. There’s also a hint of overcooked cabbage and a yeasty sake gradually fading away.

 

 

My Thoughts:

This is actually very decent in the baijiu world and I can see why it is dubbed the “Coca-Cola of Baijiu”. At this price range this is a really good product.

Yet from the perspective of a general spirits lover, this is not for the faint hearted. It’s very idiosyncratic, polarizing even. A bit like a quirky uncle who likes to tease you all the time – you either like his jokes or you're left feeling a little offended. It's also like stinky tofu I suppose. While some might find its aroma somewhat challenging, others will learn to acquire a taste for its unconventional charm.

The heat is actually quite acceptable on the palate. So, to those who think all low-end baijiu is Chinese firewater, I challenge you to try this one. Your baijiu education wouldn’t be complete if you only tried high-end baijius. Sit down and have a shot, because this is essential reading.

My Rating: 6.5/10

Kinmen Kaoliang (金門高粱酒) 58% ABV – Review 

 

While the Taiwan-based Kinmen Kaoliang does not officially classify its liquor under the aroma classifications used by the Mainland Chinese baijiu industry (e.g. Strong Aroma, Light Aroma, Sauce Aroma etc.), it is often described by connoisseurs to be part of the Light Aroma classification.

Nestled in the historic charm of Kinmen islands, a cluster of 15 islands that lies a mere 2 kilometres (1.2 miles) from Mainland China, lies plentiful fields of sorghum (or “kaoliang” in Taiwanese Mandarin) . Despite Kinmen’s proximity to Mainland China, this cluster of islands is administered by the government of Taiwan. This is the birthplace of the famous Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor.

 

One of the islets of Kinmen photographed just 2 kilometres off the glass-walled high-rises of Mainland China (Source: Getty Images)

 

Made from the sorghum crops of this rugged terrain, it stands as a testament to the resilient spirit of the island's denizens. Back in the 1950s, China was undergoing a civil war between the Communists and Nationalists. The island was used by the Nationalists as a military bastion for Taiwan against Mainland China.

 

While administered by the Taiwanese government, Kinmen Islands lie incredibly close to Mainland China (Source: CNN)

 

To supply this garrison, the Nationalist government (of Taiwan) had to import rice from Taiwan's mainland along with fuel and necessities like liquor – a costly financial burden on the government coffers. Rice had to be imported because the area’s droughts and sandy earth made rice cultivation impossible.

Nationalist General Hu Lian, the commander of Kinmen's defense base, came up with a resourceful plan. Instead of trying to cultivate rice, he encouraged local Kinmenese farmers to grow sorghum – a drought resistant crop – and barter their harvest for an equal weight of imported rice. This seemingly simple shift in agricultural policy not only eased financial strain but also ignited the inception of a sorghum spirit that has since become inseparable from the island's identity.

Today, the echoes of Kinmen's militaristic past lie interwoven with the island's serene ambiance. The town of Jincheng, once abuzz with over 100,000 Taiwanese troops, now exudes tranquillity, its charm accentuated by small quaint temples, cobbled lanes, and the ocean’s pervasive tang.

 

Sorghum grown on Kinmen (Source: 曾吉弘/Google Maps)

 

Now that the islands are mostly unoccupied the Kinmen Kaoliang distilleries hold a prominent presence in the area. Both the old and new facilities, stand as striking landmarks. The new distillery plant sits in the heart of the main island with two monumental model bottles of Kinmen Kaoliang. The more historic facility in the southwest, beneath Jincheng, overlooks the sea while its tanks and warehouses still emanate a sweet scent of fermented sorghum that can be smelled by the surrounding village.

 

The new Kinmen Kaoliang distillery plant (Source: Getty Images)

 

Kinmen Kaoliang’s mainstay comes in an unassuming transparent glass bottle with 58% ABV. This slim, unpretentious bottling exudes a quiet confidence that stands in contrast to ostentatious and sometimes hilariously over-the-top baijiu bottlings from Mainland China.  

Tasting Notes

Nose: Invitingly sweet, rich, luscious and full. As opposed to the lighter 38% ABV variant, this presents very focused cereal notes, melded with a really refined fruitiness and only a whisper of funk, leading into an elegant scent of blooming orchids, a touch of minerality and some light medicinal woodiness.

Palate: Mellow, intricately flavoured with a satisfying oily texture. Its high viscosity once again carries focused, sweet toasty cereal notes that seamlessly evolves into a light toasted nuts bitterness and distinctive notes of sesame paste with the umami of miso soup.

These flavours transition beautifully, seamlessly. While the profile is incredibly clean and pure for a baijiu of this level of character and flavour – it’s devoid of gasoline or tinner notes, and virtually no unwelcome acidity. And despite the high ABV of 58%, it gently warms the tongue and the back of the throat.

Finish: Long, pristine, and graced with a faint echo of cereals and nuttiness. The experience concludes with a hint of bitterness, reminiscent of a piece of dark chocolate savoured slowly.

 

 

My Thoughts:

Incredibly focused, tasty and full of toasted grain goodness. The flagship Kinmen Kaoliang Baijiu 58% ABV impresses with its extraordinary purity and complex flavours that are super well-integrated while seamlessly evolving.

It really excels with a focused and deep flavour profile of sweet cereal notes. The absence of even a hint of off-notes such as gasoline, nail polish remover or unwelcome acidity is also particularly impressive – and it should make this very palatable to Western tastebuds. It is difficult to find a Western spirit comparator, but I’d compare this with a pleasant malty new make Scotch or moonshine.

This baijiu is a delightful exploration of taste, a libation that I happily poured a second and third glass off. Highly recommend for those interested in a deeper dive into the world of baijiu.

My Rating: 8/10

RICE AROMA (米香) – SOUTHEASTERN CHINA

Guilin Sanhua Jiu (桂林三花酒), 52% ABV – Review

Finally, there are the Rice Aroma (米香) baijiu which is probably the most rarely-seen of the Big Four aromas. While most other categories of baijiu are distilled with a component of sorghum, Rice Aroma baijiu are distilled from long-grain rice or glutinous rice.

The relative scarcity of Rice Aroma baijiu has a cultural explanation. Consumer preference in the colder Northern provinces of China – the primary markets for baijiu – lean heavily towards the intense sorghum-based Strong Aroma and Sauce Aroma baijiu. On the other hand, Rice Aroma baijiu has been traditionally made to appeal to drinkers in the warmer Southern regions of China that do not, on the whole, consume as much baijiu as the Northerners. For this reason, Rice Aroma baijiu is produced in much smaller quantities.

The most famous brand in this category is Sanhuajiu (三花酒) which is made in the beautiful mountainous region of Guilin in the Guangxi region. This brand of baijiu is made with steamed rice, then infused with Chinese medicinal herbs. The distillation and aging process sometimes gives it a light yellow shade. The result is a spirit with a mellow sweetness, notes of rice that are reminiscent of Japanese sake and a distinctively Chinese herbaceous aroma. 

Tasting Notes

Nose: Delicate, with light florals and a gentle sweetness. A subtle scent of Jasmine rice adds a fresh, clean dimension, while hints of tropical fruits and white florals intertwine in a nuanced fragrance. There's also a touch of pear-like sweetness reminiscent of high-grade sake.

Palate: Exceptionally smooth and mellow, this really evokes the clean and mellow character of Japanese shochu for me. A subtle honeyed sweetness dances on the tongue, accompanied by a slow-growing gentle warmth. Mellow fruit notes of poached pears and apples emerge.

Finish: Crisp and slightly dry, with a mild acidity that leaves a refreshing sensation. A lingering earthiness of rice and minerality persists. The overall character is really smooth and friendly, devoid of any harsh alcoholic bite.

 

 

My Thoughts:

This Sanhuajiu offers a lovely balance of floral and fruity aromas, underpinned by the strength of a higher-proof baijiu. It's less complex than many other, more robust baijiu styles, and sits on the lighter end of the Light Aroma category. Those seeking a softer introduction to the sometimes pungent and robust flavours found in other baijiu styles will likely appreciate this offering. While less complex than other baijiu, I find myself drawn to its beautiful finish: dry, mildly acidic, with a light rice-like earthiness and minerality that lingers pleasantly. Its mellow character is remarkable, and the overall profile is something I could revisit time and again without ever feeling overwhelmed.

My Rating: 6.5/10 

The Final Tally 

We’ve tasted and rated nine major brands of baijiu, each representing the most popular and renowned labels commercially available today. These are spirits that can often be found in many liquor stores, even outside of China.

While we have taken the effort to share our Ratings of each bottle, it’s important to remember that with baijiu’s wide range of aroma types, ranking all of them on an absolute scale doesn’t make sense, as there is a lot of subjectivity in preferences. Even within China, preferences vary widely by region. For instance, those staying in the cooler Northern parts like Beijing are more likely to enjoy the potent and intense Strong Aroma baijiu, such as Luzhou Laojiao. On the other hand, people in the warmer southern parts of China often gravitate toward the delicate Light Aroma or Rice Aroma baijiu for their lighter, subtler, more refreshing profiles.

 

Louie, Season 3 (2012)

 

It's worth remembering too that baijiu has its place in a wide variety of occasions, from casual roadside meals in the streets of Chengdu to prestigious business banquets in Shanghai. Sure, you might have sipped some fancy Moutai, but you haven't truly lived until you've knocked back a shot of Red Star Er Guo Tou with some friendly locals on a hike. It's like only having Naples-style pizza without ever trying a slice of New York Pepperoni Pizza - you're missing out on the full experience! So dive deep into the world of baijiu, from the top shelf to the bottom. It's a lot to discover.

@CharsiuCharlie