It is said that mankind has been imbibing cider - the alcoholic fermented juice of apples or pears - for more than two thousand years. The story goes that Julius Caesar first encountered cider in Celtic Britain when he invaded the British Isle in 55 BCE. While his initial invasion proved to be unsuccessful in the first instance, it was not completely futile and did bear some fruit, as his first contact with the concept of cider production practised by the Celtic Britons who fermented crab apples, was studied and exported to other parts of the Roman empire, or so the story goes.

A true man of culture, it is said.

I am sceptical that Julius Caesar ought to take sole credit for the spread of cider in continental Europe. For that seems to suggest that other cultures could not innovate and produce cider on their own. The Germans have their Apfelwein, mainly consumed in Hessen and in the North of Spain they have Sidra. Northern Spain, mainly Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria and Basque Country, has its unique cider culture that is unlike anywhere else I have experienced before.

Asturias, Spain.

The largest producer of cider in Spain is in Asturias, and this region’s rugged landscape and beauty is breath-taking to say the least. It is a place where the dramatic cliffs meet the icy Atlantic waters and where moss and lush greenery thrive, a far cry from the arid lands that lie in the south that one conjures in their mind at the mere mention of Spain. The weather here is unpredictable as it faces the Bay of Biscay, and it rains more often than not. For much of the world, Asturias is mysterious unlike the Basque Country which has been seeing an uptick in tourism thanks to San Sebastian’s gastronomical fame.

This mountainous region is notoriously difficult to conquer. Both the Romans and the Moors in the 8^th century experienced similar difficulties and thus Asturias became a refuge for Christian nobles when Spain was under Moorish rule.

Today, it is difficult for a new breed of conquerors, that is the tourists. Unlike the major cities like Madrid and Barcelona, a visit to Asturias for the international traveller would require stopovers before reaching major cities of Oviedo and Gijón. For now, the airports remain quaint. It is able to support two engine planes and smaller aircrafts. Deep down I harbour hopes that it never has to see the behemoth four engine airplanes the likes of the Airbus A380 and that they remain as impenetrable as they did in the 8^th century to a different kind of invasion – the busloads of tourists.

The joy of peace from the hordes of crowds and the opportunity to experience local culture authentically is what makes this journey so enjoyable especially in the summer. My journey begins not with a single step but with a single glass.

This glass used to serve the Sidra deserves special attention as it is a specific glass used, about 5 inches or 12.7cm tall and 3.5 inches wide or 8.89cm. The glass is a key part of the Sidra experience.

On your first sip of Sidra Natural, the sharp intensity will leave your mouth watering for more. Unlike the other ciders, this is neither sweet not carbonated. It is crisp and your tongue may tingle from the acidity. After the first gulp I am refreshed and perk up, ready for more!

It is the perfect accompaniment to your meals on a fine summer’s day where temperatures typically range from the low 20 degrees Celsius.

In beautiful Asturias, sidra is very much a product from the culture and bountiful offerings from mother nature. Did you know that even in summer the ancient rivers are ideal for chilling the bottles of sidra? This is not quite what one would expect when you think of Spain, with searing dry heat beating mercilessly down on the shores of the Mediterranean Sea. The rising temperatures in the rest of Spain may soon drive the locals up North to beat the heat. Coupled with the growing fascination with Basque country, Asturias may not seem so remote with time and an ideal refuge for the rest of the Iberian Peninsula and more will be exposed to sidra. This fame may soon reach new heights as in 2024, sidra finally received its well-deserved recognition on UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage list, cementing its importance in the rich tapestry of global food customs.

What probably started out as making the most of naturally available resources and a cheaper alternative to beer and wine (which were considered expensive) has evolved into an emblem of Asturian culture. Much more than a social lubricant, the warmth and conviviality of its people is most felt when consuming this glass of gold.

The coolest part about Sidra is the way you consume it. The whole experience is as captivating as how it tastes. Whether you drink it at a restaurant or the sidrerías (cider houses), you may just be lucky enough to witness the magic of the escanciadores and escanciadoras, the magicians skilled in the art of preparing the sidra. Standing firm and holding the bottle of sidra with the dominant hand high above their heads, with much skill, the golden nectar is poured to the glass held with the other hand held at waist level. This extreme pour is not merely for show but to provide the sidra with some carbonation. This pour is short and will fill a quarter of the glass and must be chugged immediately. If one waits for too long, the freshly effervescent liquid will lose the bubbles turning flat. Sometimes, if the pourer is particularly skilled they need not even look at the glasses and they may even do it with their eyes closed. After you drink your glass, it is customary to splash the last bits onto the ground to cleanse the glass for the next person. The same glass is used around the table with everyone taking their turn!

The Asturians, typically use fun little machines to serve the sidra for a less labour-intensive pour. These innovative machines are still pretty fun as well. While there is less theatrics involved, there is room for gleeful mischief in pumping the machine for your own serve of sidra. One or two pumps are sufficient for streams of gold to summon a gush, perfectly aerated for consumption.

There are several types of sidra available in Asturias but chances are you will be drinking the Sidra Natural. As the name suggests, it has no sugar, no yeast and no additives. The only yeast it contains is naturally occurring found on the apples utilised. This helps to explain why manual carbonation is required unlike its other cider cousins. The aeration is vital to open up the flavour profile of the sidra.

What is unique about sidra is that it is not to be hoarded and ought to be consumed within the year of production, whether at big gatherings where raucous laughter is accompanies by the sumptuous cuisine or in the peace of your own home.

Talk about food pairing.

Sidra pairs well with fresh seafood, the sea urchin, razor clams, percebes (or goose barnacle) and fish! It was excellent with the seafood risotto we tried (see picture). Cabrales cheese (or blue cheese) and the salty bites of chacuterie work excellently with the sidra. Special mention should be accorded to the Asturian bean stew with spicy chorizo and smoky bacon too!

Outside of Spain, sidra may not be as easy to obtain perhaps because it is without any additional additives and therefore difficult to export and store for extended durations. If you do have the chance to get a bottle or two, you must be your own escanciador and pour as they do in Asturias. If not, experience it for yourself first hand in Asturias, a trip that has moved me for the first time in a long while. The terrain here is vast and the Picos de Europa boasts spectacular mountains which make you feel small but never alone. The people here have not forgotten that food and drink without the human connection will not satiate you in the way we as humans deeply need in a world where we are so socially disconnected. Viva la sidra!

@crystaltonic