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Putting The Jura In Jurassic: An Introduction To France’s Artisanal Funky Jura Wines


In the Jura region of France seats rows of grapes that have, by now, taken over lands where dinosaurs once walked on. 

Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors Burgundy, Bordeaux, and even the Rhône Valley, it is a hidden gem for wine enthusiasts seeking something truly unique, and certainly has a history that shapes its terroir in ways few other places possibly can. Producing a range of wines that defy convention, it's also little wonder why those that have found out about its wines become instant fans. 

So let's take a dive into this little-heard-of region of France, and find out what exactly it has in store for us!

Where Is Jura? And The Jura Native that Saved the French Wine Industry!

 

(Image Source: Wine Folly)

 

At just under 50 miles, Jura is actually France's smallest wine-producing region. Sitting near the border between France and Switzerland, wine production in the region can be tracked back to the early 1700s.

Although no extensive records were really kept of Jura's earlier years, we do know that wine-producing continued to flourish through the French Revolution until the end of the 19th century, although most vineyards were owned by nobility.

"The phylloxera, a true gourmet, finds out the best vineyards and attaches itself to the best wines" (Cartoon from Punch, 6 Sep. 1890)

It is even believed that one Jura native by the name of Alexis Millardet innovated a revolutionary new method that has helped vineyards to this day. You see, an aphid-like pest by the name of Phylloxera had hit europe and was doing a particularly nasty job of decimating every grapevine in its path. The plague finally reached the Jura region in 1879 running rampant until 1895.

By then, the French wine industry was in shambles, with producers practically clawing on for survival. It was during this period that Millardet pioneered the method of grafting vines onto American rootstock to ensure the vine's survivability. 

Fun fact! The Jurassic period is actually named after Jura, not the other way around. It was named after a new "period" was discovered after studying ancient rocks found in Jura.

What's Up With Jura's Terroir?

 

Cast of Crocodilaemus robustus from the paleontological site of Serin in the Jura mountains. 

As mentioned, its special terroir hearkens back millions of years. For the less-initiated, terroir is essentially how the environment (from the climate to the soil) affects wine grapes, and in turn how they taste.

The story begins about 150 million years ago, when the region was still underwater. More specifically, a tropical, shallow ancient ocean. In fact, fossils are being found to this day, ranging from dinosaur footprints to ancient sealife such as ammonites and Grypheae (ancient oysters).

Throughout time, layers of ancient sediment and fossils have built up in the soils of the area. The area now boasts large deposits of Jurassic clay, limestone and marlstone. Ages span from the early Jurassic (Bathonian) to lower Jurassic (Liassic) periods.

 (Image source: Berthet-bondet)

You might see where I'm going with this;  Apparently, the fossils are still full of salt and iodine, all of which have been leaching into the soil over time. Yep, this peculiar nature of Jura's soil is said to give some acidity and gives the region's wine a smoky taste.

Fun fact! The Jurassic period is actually named after Jura, not the other way around. It was named after a new "period" was discovered after studying ancient rocks found in Jura.

The Wine Grapes of Jura

While the region does raise a variety of wine grapes both red and white, the more common ones such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are more than expected, and need not detain us at this time. Rather, let's get into three specific wines that are quite distinctive to the region: 

 

 

Savagnin: Renowned for its ability to age gracefully, this white grape variety is widely praised in the region, also acting as the backbone of the region's most iconic wines, including Vin Jaune (More on this later).

This thick-skinned grape is resistant to disease and thrives in the Jura's unique terroir. It produces wines with a distinct character, often described as nutty, complex, and with a pronounced minerality.

 

 

Poulsard: A thin skinned red wine grape, it's often used to make light red wines and even sparkling rose wines. It accounts for a fifth of the grape grown in the region.

It is known to have notes of red cherries, berries, herbs, and white pepper, and is favored to be used in blends with other red wines in the region.

 

 

Trousseau: One of the older grape varieties, this red wine grape has been around for some time. Although taking up about five per cent of the Jura region's vineyards, it is favored for blends but can also be drunk as a single varietal.

It is said to have vibrant red fruit flavors like raspberry and strawberry, while its low tannins and high acidity make it a perfect match for lighter fare and warm weather enjoyment.

The Wines of Jura

Like its wine grape varieties, Jura's wines encompass quite a few well-known varieties, inclusive of red, white and even sparkling wines. However, there are also a few that specially hail from the region:

 

 

Vin Jaune: Translated to "yellow wine", it's a rare, special wine that although greatly praised, is hardly known or talked about.

Made from the aforementioned Savagnin, the wines have quite a peculiar production method: After the wine is aged, they are transferred to old barrels with a little bit of air space at the top. This open space results in a film of natural yeast that grows on the top layer of the wine. This yeast film is called voile, which is not unlike the flor in Sherry production. 

This yeasty barricade is more than jsut a layer of gunk, however. It shields the wine beneath from direct air contact, allowing for a slower rate of oxidation. This in turn imparts a complex and nutty character to the wine.

The result is a dry, full-bodied, and intensely flavored white wine with a distinctive golden hue.  

Ouillé: A style of Vin Jaune where the barrels are topped up regularly, resulting in a different flavor profile compared to traditional Vin Jaune.

 

 

Macvin du Jura: This particular wine is more along the lines of a fortified wine, made by blending barely-fermented grape juice with Marc de Jura (grape brandy.

It is said that production of this wine dates back to the 14th century. After eau-de-vie is added to stop the base wine's fermentation process, the wine is then aged in oak barrels for about a year before being bottled. 

It is a fairly rare wine, accounting for only 3% of Jura's total wine production. It is also commonly drunk as an Apertif!

Crémant du Jura: Jura's answer to Champagne. It is a sparkling wine made using the traditional method, lasting from the 18th century to the modern day.

 

 

Vin de Paille: A sweet wine made with grapes traditionally dried on straw. The process is said to concentrate its natural sugars, resulting in a sweeter wine.

 


Lok Bing Hong

A budding journalist that loves experiencing new things and telling people's stories. I have 30 seconds of coherence a day. I do not decide when they come. They are not consecutive.