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Roumier, Dujac, Lambrays et al: Burgundy’s Biggest Authority Jasper Morris Takes Us Through a Legendary Morey-Saint-Denis Tasting

 

If you're dipping your toes into Burgundy wines, there's one golden rule you'll quickly discover: knowing the regions isn't just helpful—it's essential. It’s a challenge remembering the names, but honestly, that's also part of the fun.

The entire region on a large map resembles an intricate patchwork quilt. The five primary wine-growing areas include Chablis in the far north, the Côte d’Or, theCôte Chalonnaise, the Mâconnais, and Beaujolais in the far south.

 

 

Yet at the core of Burgundy’s global prestige lie the two halves of the Côte d’Or – appropriately named the “golden slope”– the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune. This is a narrow band of vineyards stretching roughly 40 km produces Burgundy’s most famous and expensive wines. The Côte de Nuits alone contains 24 out of Burgundy’s 25 red Grand Cru appellations, while the Côte de Beaune hosts 7 of the 8 white Grand Crus of Burgundy.

 

 

Travelling down the Côte de Nuits is like walking through a living wine atlas with a concentration of superb climats (vineyard sites) that have been producing reds of profound depth and finesse. The three most famous villages of the Nuits are also the first three to hyphenate their names – there’s Vosne, which hyphenated its most prestigious vineyard to become Vosne-Romanée, Gevrey, which hyphenated its renowned vineyard Chambertin, becoming Gevrey-Chambertin, and Chambolle, which similarly, hyphenated its top vineyard Musigny, becoming Chambolle-Musigny.

An often overlooked village that arguably deserves much more recognition is Morey-Saint-Denis, which lies nestled between Gevrey-Chambertin to its north and Chambolle-Musigny to its south.

Jasper Morris spotlights the best of Morey-Saint-Denis at 67 Pall Mall

I recently had the pleasure of attending a masterclass at 67 Pall Mall Singapore, where one of the world's foremost authority on Burgundy, Jasper Morris Master of Wine, set out to put the spotlight firmly back on this underrated village as he guides us through a tasting tour of some of Morey's most illustrious and coveted producers—including Georges Roumier, Domaine des Lambrays, and Domaine Dujac.

 

 

It’s worth noting that the fairly small village of Morey actually possesses an outsized share of treasures with four Grand Crus lying entirely within Morey’s boundaries (Clos de la Roche, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Tart). Despite so, Morey long lived in the shadow of its more famous neighbours, Gevrey and Chambolle. Shockingly, until the 1950s, many growers in Morey even would blend their wines into Gevrey or Chambolle cuvées to sell them under those better-known names.

 

 

One reason for Morey’s low profile may be that its identity is often defined by its neighbours – critics describe it as a hybrid of Gevrey and Chambolle – with some of Gevrey’s tannic backbone and dark masculine fruit, and some of Chambolle’s aromatic finesse and elegant texture. Terroir-wise, Morey-Saint-Denis shares the same strip of prime mid-slope limestone as Gevrey and Chambolle, simple explanations for its terroir only go so far. In a single commune, one might find the elegant and floralperfume of a Clos Saint-Denis and just a short stroll away, the rich dark fruit and finely structured palate of Clos des Lambrays.

But to truly appreciate Morey-Saint-Denis’s contribution to Burgundy’s prestige, one must meet the people who craft its wines. And this was the journey that Jasper took us on.

 

 

On the outset, Jasper highlighted something fundamental: apart from a wine's age, two critical decisions by the winemaker dramatically shape a red wine’s flavour profile. The first centres around handling grape bunches during harvest. While some winemakers pick them whole and ferment with stems intact, others remove the stems before fermentation. The inclusion of whole bunches tends to introduce additional structure, spice and occasionally earthy, herbal notes. On the other hand, de-stemming typically results in softer tannins and a more refined, fruit-forward profile.

The second crucial factor is timing. Historically, Burgundian vignerons observed when their vineyards flowered and counted precisely 100 days to determine their ideal harvest date. However, Jasper noted an intriguing shift: since around 2018, due to the warming climate, Pinot Noir grapes risk becoming overripe if growers adhere strictly to this traditional timing. Picking too late can lead to wines lacking freshness and tension. Today’s tasting would reveal some fascinating contrasts reflecting these very decisions.

 

 

Our exploration began with a wine from smaller historic Burgundian family: the 2020 Domaine Didier Amiot, Morey-Saint-Denis. The Amiot lineage has deep roots here, cultivating vines in Morey since at least the early 1700s. In the 1900s, patriarch Pierre Amiot laid the foundation of Domaine Amiot et Fils, eventually entrusting the estate to his two sons, Jean-Louis and Didier. In 2021, the brothers parted ways, with Jean-Louis retaining the Domaine Amiot et Fils name and Didier establishing his own estate, crafting wines under his name from his share of the family vineyards.

 

 

On the nose, the wine displayed an appealingly evocative aroma, offering concentrated notes of ripe plums accompanied by a subtle hint of sour plum and gentle earthiness. There's a polished elegance here, alongside powerful yet impressively integrated tannins, especially notable for Pinot Noir. A delicate spiciness emerges on the back. On the palate, the wine is defined by a lively acidity and a beautifully smooth, velvety texture, underscored by supple tannins. The fruit doesn't dominate, but gentle expressions of black fruits complement the overall medium-bodied structure nicely. The finish closes with a touch of spice and a hint of dryness.

As Jasper remarked, Didier Amiot appears to clearly favour the de-stemming method. This seems evident from the wine’s softer tannins and fruit purity. That being said, it’s somewhat restrained in its fruit expression and lacking a bit of immediate depth even as it shows potential. Jasper suggested giving it a few more years in the cellar to develop fully.

Next in our tasting journey is a village-level wine from another small grower the 2019 Edouard Delaunay, Morey-Saint-Denis. The winemaker is a gentleman called Laurent Delaunay, while the company is named after his grandfather, Edouard Delaunay. Mr. Delaunay is a négociant, which means he purchases either grapes or finished wine—though, in his case, he typically buys grapes and does vinification himself.

 

 

This wine is dramatically different from the previous one, and this could be attributed to the late harvest in 2019. In 2019, flowering was later, which pushed the harvest back as well. According to Jasper, this particular wine was likely picked around the second week of September.

On the nose, the wine immediately presented itself as somewhat overripe. I get some cola, vellichor—that scent of aged paper and books– along with mild oxidised notes. Fruits are polished yet noticeably influenced by oak, revealing distinct vanilla tones, and an unexpected vegetal and herbaceous edge reminiscent of mezcal.

The palate unfolded gently, giving soft acidity and ripe plums along with lighter red fruits. It felt surprisingly smooth, remarkably easy-drinking, yet perhaps a bit lighter than anticipated. There’s almost no perceptible tannins which made the wine immediately approachable, though it also gave an impression of minimal structural backbone. It finishes lightly, with vanilla accented by mint.

This is a contrast from the Didier Amiot. Its got a distinctly ripe and oxidized character, combined with restrained structure, and might intrigue some drinkers while potentially polarizing others seeking more classical Burgundy profiles.

Next, we turn to the 2018 Domaine Georges Roumier, Morey-Saint-Denis, Premier Cru 'Clos de la Bussière'. One cannot speak of top Burgundy producers without a mention of Domaine Georges Roumier as one of the great producers in recent years. Founded in 1924 by Georges Roumier in the village of Chambolle-Musigny, this estate is regarded by many critics as arguably the best producer in Chambolle, famous for wines of exquisite depth and longevity.

 

 

The Roumier story began when young Georges married into the winegrowing Quanquin family of Chambolle. With vineyards from his wife’s family as a start, Georges expanded the domaine. But rather than always buying land outright, he often employed métayage – a sharecropping system – cultivating others’ vineyards for a share of the crop. This enabled Roumier to gradually add prime sites to his portfolio of wines. Early on, Roumier secured parcels in Musigny, Burgundy’s most elegant Grand Cru, and Bonnes Mares, a Grand Cru straddling Chambolle and Morey-Saint-Denis. Its Bonnes Mares and Musigny wines particularly secured the domaine's fame and are coveted by collectors worldwide for their blend of depth, floral aromatics and uniquely delicate structure – fetching astonishing prices at auction.

In 1953, a notable acquisition extended Roumier’s reach into Morey-Saint-Denis: that year the family purchased the entirety of Clos de la Bussière, a 2.5-hectare walled vineyard in Morey-Saint-Denis. Clos de la Bussière is a monopole (solely owned vineyard) and classified as a Premier Cru – and it remains Roumier’s flagship holding in Morey to this day.

 

 

After Georges Roumier’s passing in 1965, his son Jean-Marie ran the domaine, and since the 1980s Georges’ grandson Christophe Roumier has been winemaker. Christophe has maintained the estate’s traditional philosophy, emphasizing terroir transparency and balance. Oak is used judiciously; winemaking is kept fairly classic.

Clos de la Bussière has an intriguing backstory of its own. In the 1930s it was part of the assets of the Graillet family estate – an estate whose other vineyards would eventually form the foundation of Domaine Dujac (as we’ll see later). By acquiring Clos de la Bussière, the Roumiers not only gained a superb Morey terroir, but also helped preserve the vineyard’s identity through turbulent decades. Under Roumier’s care, Clos de la Bussière yields a wine often described as hearty and savoury, with a firm tannic backbone – a Morey-Saint-Denis of serious structure that can be just a touch rustic in youth, yet ages into a thing of beauty. Critics have noted black raspberry fruit, earth and a certain mineral austerity in Roumier’s Bussière, though a wine that demands a few years to soften and unfurl.

 

 Jasper's Maine Coon helping him to assess the latest vintage from Pierre Millemann.

 

During the tasting, Jasper shared a playful anecdote that initially seemed entirely off-topic. Jasper lives with his wife in Burgundy, and they both share a fondness for cats. Early last year, they decided to welcome two pedigree Maine Coon kittens into their home, acquiring them from a charming French lady. When Jasper mentioned his profession as a wine critic, the breeder casually noted that her family also had roots in the wine industry. She revealed she had a cousin involved in winemaking, adding modestly, "Not sure if you've heard of him—his name is Christophe Roumier."

It turned out that the breeder herself had initially intended to join the winemaking profession. However, life took her in a different direction, and she became one of Air France's very first female pilots before retiring to breed cats. Jasper humorously quipped that Christophe, lacking her apparent talent for passing aeronautics exams, had no choice but to go into winemaking instead.

Returning to the wines, Jasper directed our attention to the 2018 Roumier 'Clos de la Bussière'. The 2018 vintage was exceptionally popular, harvested slightly earlier, around mid-to-late August. Christophe Roumier is known for preferring slightly later harvests compared to his neighbours, giving his wines additional intensity and depth.

 

 

Before tasting, Jasper encouraged us to tilt our glasses gently. Immediately noticeable was the thick band of glycerol forming the "legs" slowly sliding down the glass—an indication of the wine's remarkable intensity and concentration.

 

 

On the nose, an impressive concentration of rich fruits and pronounced tannins. Very brambly, with dark raspberry and gentle savouriness complemented by delicate mushroom and herbal notes with a backdrop of elegant oakiness. On the palate, it’s rather expressive, marked by notes of spice, mint and brambly fruits. Very muscular yet sophisticated in its spice and herbaceous complexity, it showed a good level of acidity that balanced the power. The finish was long, warm, and memorable, accented by lingering spices reminiscent of five-spice and liquorice, hints of raspberry and brambles gently persisting.

This wine is still somewhat austere in its youth. But our consensus was clear: it holds extraordinary promise. Jasper confidently suggested that with another ten years in the cellar after which its true potential would unfold to put it in an entirely different league.

Wine number four is of an iconic Morey-Saint-Denis producer: the 2017 Perrot-Minot, Morey-Saint-Denis, 1er Cru 'La Riotte' Vieilles Vignes. Domaine Perrot-Minot emerged as one of Burgundy’s rising stars in the 1990s as the category entered a renaissance of quality. The domaine owns or directly farms an enviable array of crus, spread across the Côte de Nuits including Vosne-Romanée(Premier Crus like Les Beaux Monts),Gevrey-Chambertin(several Grand Crus such as Chambertin, Chambertin Clos-de-Bèze, Mazis, Chapelle), and of course their home village ofMorey-Saint-Denis.

 

 

While the domaine’s name is relatively new, its roots stretch back to the 19th century through the Merme family of Morey-Saint-Denis. The modern estate took shape in1963, when one of vintner Armand Merme’s daughters married Henri Perrot-Minot, merging the family name with the domaine. Henri took over from his father-in-law and ran the estate through the late 20th century. By the early 1990s, it passed to Henri’s son,Christophe Perrot-Minot, who became the dynamic force that propelled the domaine to the top tier.

Christophe Perrot-Minot had worked as a courtier (wine broker) for seven years, tasting and trading Burgundy wine, before returning to helm the family domaine. With a broker’s sharp eye for quality, he set aboutoptimizing everything: pruning for lower yields, careful sorting, and a transition to high standards in the vineyard and cellar. Unlike traditionalists, Christophe favours full destemming, but with meticulous extraction and plenty of new oak.

 

 

Thanks to savvy deals and arrangements under Christophe, Domaine Perrot-Minot now has access to a bevy of Grand Crus – including Chambertin, Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Chapelle-Chambertin and Clos Vougeot. In practice, this means Perrot-Minot can offer a “collector’s edition” range of Burgundy’s greatest hits across sub-regions.

The cuvee we’re tasting is of one of their most prized Primer Cru sites in Morey, La Riotte, that is something of a calling card for the domaine due to its depth and complexity.

 

 

On the nose, we found the wine immediately evocative and appealing. Lovely lilacs, mingled with fresh raspberries alongside a subtle sweetness from vanilla with brambles and dried plum, adding a pleasant muscularity and earthiness. A slight touch of brett provided an animalic edge, along with some comforting notes of library books. On the palate, the wine's drinkability shone through clearly. A charming red fruit character, especially strawberries balanced delicately with a gentle acidity. Subtle hint of minerality and liquorice add depth without overpowering the fruit. The finish was notably lighter, maintaining its freshness through lingering raspberries.

Overall, the Perrot-Minot was very enjoyable. Loved its perfumed character and expressive fruit, combined with some complexity from the earthy and mineral nuances.

Jasper conducted an informal poll among attendees of the masterclass, and about 60% of the participants, myself included, currently preferred the Perrot-Minot over the Roumier. Jasper however, offered an insightful perspective: in his professional capacity as a wine critic, he'd ultimately score the Roumier higher for potential. After ten more years in the cellar, he noted, this bottle of Roumier would undoubtedly ascend to another league. When it comes to choosing which bottle to open today, Jasper unequivocally leaned toward the beautifully expressive and approachable Perrot-Minot.

Next up, we’re tasting the 2015 Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru from one of Burgundy's oldest producers that is currently owned by luxury goods group, LVMH. While the Domaine we know today is a relative newcomer, it traces its origin to a 14th-century vineyard in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis, the Clos des Lambrays, which it currently owns.

 

 

This parcel of land has seen a turbulent history through the centuries: monastic ownership, post-Revolution fragmentation, neglect and rebirth. The vineyard was once part of the vast holdings of a monastic abbey and was tended by monks, before it was confiscated during the French Revolution. By the late 19th century, after the French Revolution’s chaos (during which Lambrays was broken into over 70 plots and owners), theRodier familypainstakingly reassembled the vineyard. By the 1930s Burgundy classification, Clos des Lambrays was ranked as a Premier Cru. According to Jasper, this was simply because the family did not apply for Grand Cru status for the fear it would increase their tax burden – a not uncommon story in Burgundy.

Jasper pointed out that if one drinks Clos des Lambrays from the interwar period—say, 1923, 1934, 1937, or just after the war in 1945—one would find utterly stunning wines. Those are some of the greatest bottles Jasper has ever tasted. However, once you get into the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, quality clearly declines. The owner was not looking after the vineyards properly during that period, and did not have a capable winemaker, and the wines suffered as a result.

The vineyard continued to languish under a former owner until 1979, when a group led by the Saier brothers (Roland de Chambure and Fabien and Louis Saier) purchased Clos des Lambrays – reportedly for a song, as Burgundy vineyards then were nothing like today’s value. The Saiers founded Domaine des Lambrays and immediately installed Thierry Brouin as winemaker and régisseur (estate manager). The turnaround bore fruit quickly: in 1981, Clos des Lambrays was upgraded to Grand Cru status. The estate was shortly sold to a wealthy German industrialist, Günter Freund, who could invest in the property.

 

 

Unfortunately, Freund’s instructions to Thierry did not help to elevate the estate’s potential. He told Thierry to produce nice and drinkable wine that could be sold at an affordable price. Critics, including Jasper, felt that this limited the estate’s potential as the wines did not challenge the very best in Burgundy.

After Freund passed away, however, the estate was purchased by LVMH in 2014. The group’s investment transformed the estate, from viticulture to winemaking. Jasper praised the recent vintages to be “absolutely stunning”.

Clos des Lambrays today totals 8.84 hectares, of which Domaine des Lambrays owns all but a tiny 0.18 ha sliver (held by a neighbour, Domaine Taupenot-Merme). Thus, while not technically a monopole, it nearly is. Its wine is described to have robust structure and dark fruit, but also a certain aromatic perfume and finesse.

Jasper raised an interesting side story. Many might be familiar with the famous rivalry between Bernard Arnault of LVMH and François Pinault of Kering, the luxury conglomerate behind Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Balenciaga. The two titans have a history of clashing over major acquisitions, notably the fierce Gucci takeover war in the late 1990s, where Arnault sought control of Gucci but was ultimately outmanoeuvred by Pinault.

 

 

In recent decades, this rivalry has extended from fashion into fine wines, with both Arnault and Pinault building impressive portfolios of prestigious vineyards. Arnault’s acquisitions include Château Cheval Blanc and Domaine des Lambrays, while Pinault counters with ownership of Château Latour.

 

 

Interestingly, shortly after Arnault's acquisition of Clos des Lambrays in 2014, Pinault responded by purchasing Clos de Tart in 2017—a similarly prestigious Grand Cru site located right next door to Clos des Lambrays. This move fuelled speculation of an escalating "Burgundy wine war" that brought the LVMH-Kering rivalry into Morey-Saint-Denis.

 

 

Turning to our impressions of this wine, on the nose, immediately evocative and complex. Juicy, with vibrant aromas of crushed strawberries mingling harmoniously with delicate spices with exceptional aromatic depth. On the palate, there's remarkable liveliness and an inviting, vibrant acidity that beautifully balances its impressive density and intense fruit concentration. Crushed strawberries, ripe raspberries, and tangy cranberries come forward effortlessly, underscored by a subtle earthiness and remarkably precise, finely textured tannins. Structured but still balanced, and eminently drinkable. There’s a delicate hint of mint that becomes increasingly prominent. The finish is elegant, accentuated by gentle oak and lingering notes of crushed strawberries.

Overall, this wine is exceptionally tasty, showcasing impressive structure, density and concentrated fruit character. It’s evident, as Jasper remarked, that the grapes were harvested with whole bunches, given the distinctive peppery note on the nose paired with sweet crushed strawberry flavours – a hallmark of this style of winemaking.

Jasper happily noted that 2015 is a fantastic vintage in Burgundy, comparing it to two memorable vintages: 2005, his all-time top vintage known for its intense concentration yet somewhat austere nature requiring substantial cellaring, and the charming, juicy, fruit-forward 2010 vintage, noted for its immediate approachability but much less structural depth. According to Jasper, this 2015 vintage blends the best of both vintages—it possesses the density and structure reminiscent of 2005 alongside the juiciness and drinkability of 2010. This Clos des Lambrays is ideal for drinking now, yet it still holds tremendous potential for further aging.

The final bottle we’re tasting is the 2013 Domaine Dujac, Clos Saint-Denis, from the renowned Domaine Dujac that has one of modern Burgundy’s most inspiring stories of ascent.

The domaine was founded in 1967 by Jacques Seysses, who was something of a Burgundy outsider. He came from a successful biscuit-making family but had no inherited vines. However, inspired by his and his father’s love for wine, Jacques left the biscuit business and apprenticed at another producer. Then, at just 25 years old, he took a leap: he purchased the dilapidatedDomaine Grailletin Morey-Saint-Denis. Seysses simply renamed the propertyDomaine Dujac, a contraction of “du Jacques” (meaning “of Jacques”).

 

Founder, Jacques Seysses, and his family.

 

Drawing inspiration from traditionalists like Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (who often ferment with stems), Seysses embraced100% whole cluster fermentation at a time when it was trendy to practice destemming in Burgundy. The result was distinctive wines that are often deeper in colour, exotically spiced and richly textured. By the early 1970s, the Burgundy establishment took notice: Dujac wines were winning blind tastings and garnering acclaim for punching above their weight. The name Dujac quickly moved from curiosity to“renowned estate”, proof that a newcomer could join the ranks of Burgundy’s best through talent and sheer will.

The core of Dujac’s holdings in Morey has always been Clos de la Roche (about 2 hectares) and Clos Saint-Denis (about 1.5 ha). But over the decades, Domaine Dujac steadily expanded beyond Morey, acquiring plots in Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, Echezeaux Grand Cru, and portions of Chambertin, Charmes-Chambertin, Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru, and Malconsorts. It also has a slice of Bonnes Mares (0.55 ha) and even ventured into white wine with Puligny-Montrachet 1er Crus (Folatières and Combettes). The domaine’s holding now stands at 17+ hectares.

Dujac‘s Clos de la Roche is typically masculine, powerful and dense – brimming with dark fruits, forest floor, with a sturdy structure that demands aging.

In contrast, Dujac’s Clos Saint-Denisis often described to be more perfumed, elegant, sap-filled, floral with high-toned red fruits. It is also often described to contain much more structure and tannins, offering serious depth that rewards patience.

 

View of Morey-Saint-Denis over Clos Saint-Denis.

 

Jasper remarked thoughtfully during the tasting that Clos Saint-Denis and Clos des Lambrays are remarkably similar Grand Crus. Still, subtle nuances do exist: the Clos des Lambrays typically presents a more structured, blue-fruited, savoury, and brooding personality, while Clos Saint-Denis is closer to the delicate, silky character reminiscent of Chambolle-Musigny and its esteemed Grand Cru Musigny—more perfumed, elegant, and graceful.

 

 

Our tasting experience of the 2013 Domaine Dujac Clos Saint-Denis reflected some of these observations. On the nose, the wine was strikingly fresh and intensely fruity. An enticing depth of concentrated brambly acidic red fruits, punctuated by notable earthiness and a mild savoury undertone. The palate revealed how effectively 12 years of careful aging had allowed the fruit to evolve and flourish. It was expressive, showcasing a harmonious blend of red fruits and dark cherries intertwined with appealing notes of mint and slate-like minerality. The wine had power and excellent acidity, with a polished structure, though the tannins are impressively soft, silky and well-integrated. The finish was comforting and warm, lingering with delicate red fruit and vanilla, underscored noticeably by hints of liquorice.

Overall, the 2013 Clos Saint-Denis stands out for its remarkable clarity and precision. Everything seemed presented in high definition, vividly evocative. It felt mature and beautifully developed, though Jasper insisted that it still possessing the potential to continue evolving for several more years.

Jasper highlighted an important point about the vintage. Notably, 2013 has been considered one of the weakest vintages of the past two decades. It suffered due to an unusually late growing season and challenging harvest conditions. Grapes weren't fully ripe until early October, and heavy rainfall on October 4th forced growers to allow vineyards extra time to dry out. This delayed harvest contrasts with recent vintages harvested as early as August, marking nearly a one-and-a-half-month difference.

Initially, wines from 2013 were viewed as somewhat light and lacking in depth. However, as our tasting vividly demonstrated, after extended cellar aging, the fruit has bloomed beautifully, along with beautiful complexity and elegance.

So, what defines Morey-Saint-Denis?

One participant asked: “So what is the defining characteristic of Morey-Saint-Denis?” Jasper lit up at the question. He shared candidly that, despite his extensive experience and numerous tastings in the region, he still struggles to pinpoint one singular trait that universally defines Morey-Saint-Denis wines.

Unlike the power immediately associated with Gevrey-Chambertin or the finesse consistently noted in Chambolle-Musigny, Morey’s distinctive identity remains elusive. For this reason, the village often flies under the radar, its identity frequently described in relation to its more famous neighbours rather than by a distinct, easily recognisable quality of its own.

 

 

Yet, Jasper noted thoughtfully, there's occasionally some identifiable subtleties—a certain wild, slightly savoury note. Jasper assured us that if tasted side-by-side with Chambolle-Musigny wines, this nuance would become more prominent. Perhaps one day, Jasper mused, a "lightbulb moment" will occur, and he would be able to articulate precisely what defines Morey-Saint-Denis’s uniqueness. Until then, seasoned critics, and even winemakers such as Jeremy Seysses continue to find it a challenge to pin down for certain the elusive charm of Morey-Saint-Denis.

@CharsiuCharlie