It’s easy to assume in a place like China that vin rouge is a relatively recent affair, a product of Western influence in the 20^th century and of burgeoning middle class affluence in the current one. Yet, the story of grape wine in China is far older and richer than we often imagine.

Consider the “Ballad of Liangzhou” (凉州词) by 8^th century poet Liu Yuxi – a work etched into the Chinese literary canon some 1,200 years ago. It’s a raw depiction of soldiers stationed on the empire’s northwestern frontier, a desolate desert expanse bordering the Silk Road. 

Far from home and familiar faces, facing the ever-present threat of death, these men indulge in cups of shimmering red wine in the night, a fleeting moment of solace in the face of brutal uncertainty. “How many of us,” the soldiers wonder, “would return from tomorrow’s battle?”

The image is stark: the exquisite pleasure of red wine juxtaposed against the grim reality of the battlefield. But more than just a classic literary work, the poem gives us a glimpse into the past, evidence that even in the 8th century, this exotic European alcohol had found its way to China. During the Tang Dynasty, the Imperial Court stationed soldiers here to secure this region against raids and invasions from rivals. While baijiu and rice wine dominated the Chinese mainland, red grape wine was already a presence, a coveted import through Silk Road that graced the cups of soldiers on the edges of the known world.

The ancient poem of course, does not depict the same sophisticated wine culture we know of in China today. That story begins in the late Qing Dynasty and early Republic, with the arrival of European missionaries bearing not just the Gospel, but also the vine. These missionaries, seeking to replicate the sacraments and perhaps a taste of home, sowed the very early seeds of Chinese wine. This observation ignited the ambition of a wealthy industrialist named Cheong Fatt Tze who had amassed a fortune in Southeast Asia and, upon returning to his homeland, saw the potential for mass-produced wines in the domestic market.

In the late 1890s, Cheong set out to establish China’s first commercial vineyard, a bold undertaking fraught with challenges. His initial attempts, using American vines, proved disappointing. The grapes were lackluster, the yields meager, and the plants ill-suited to the Chinese climate. Undeterred, Cheong doubled down, importing another staggering 640,000 vines from Europe. Yet even these struggled to adapt, succumbing to disease and unfamiliar conditions. In a stroke of ingenuity, Cheong turned to the wild grapevines of northeastern China, hardy plants bearing bitter fruit. Grafting these onto the European vines, he created a hybrid capable of flourishing in the Shandong soil. The result was resilient vines that produced abundant, sweet grapes that could be used for basic winemaking. Changyu Winery in Yantai, Shandong was born from Cheong’s perseverance. This marked the beginning of large-scale wine production in China.

In those early days, the quality of bulk Chinese wine paled in comparison to the established vineyards of Europe and the burgeoning wineries of the New World. Up until the 1980s, the Chinese market was dominated by “half-juice” wines, products of partially fermented grape juice that wouldn’t pass muster with today’s discerning drinkers. It wasn’t until China’s accession to the WTO in 2004 and abolishment of the “half-juice” standard, that the industry truly began to transform.

Suddenly, the doors were thrown open to international competition, and a flood of investment, particularly from French wine and spirits giants like Pernod Ricard, DBR Lafite and Moët Hennessy, poured into the country. This marked a turning point, forcing domestic producers to up their game and embrace modern winemaking techniques. The arrival of these international players brought with it not just capital, but also expertise in viticulture, vinification and marketing, raising the bar for the Chinese wine industry.

Notable Chinese Wine Regions and Producers

China’s vineyards sprawl across the countryside, improvised, defiant of easy classification. The vast landscape of the country and scattered plantings makes it challenging to define the wine regions according to the conventional method. The very notion of terroir, that holy trinity of soil, climate, and human touch, seems to lose its precision in this vast and varied landscape. Here, administrative borders often define the familiar Chinese wine ‘regions’ such as Ningxia and Xinjiang.

But let’s discuss 5 of the key regions and most significant producers in this burgeoning world of Chinese wine, beginning with the cradle of the industry itself: Shandong.

1. Shandong

The moderately warm climate of Shandong was preferred by DBR Lafite for the establishment of Domaine de Long Dai (Source: Richard Haughton)

This is the region that first springs to mind when one thinks of Chinese wine. Shandong has been historically the first wine region in China where China's oldest producer first set down roots in 1892. It remains the primary wine region in China, producing most of the wine in the country.

Take a drive through Shandong in the 1980s, and you might have been forgiven for thinking you'd been magically transported to Bordeaux. Several large wineries, eager to emulate the prestige of their European counterparts, adopted a distinctly French architectural style, complete with grand château-style buildings. Their fascination with Shandong was because the regions latitude closely mirrors that of Bordeaux, which was the global benchmark for quality wine in the '80s and '90s.

Located on China's east coast, it enjoys a temperate maritime climate, neither scorchingly hot nor frigidly cold. But Shandong has its quirks. The monsoon season brings abundant rainfall, creating challenges for grape growers. High disease pressure necessitates constant vigilance and frequent pesticide treatments.

While Shandong is home to numerous producers of bulk wine, one name shines particularly bright in recent years, that is Domaine de Long Dai, the Chinese sister winery of the legendary Château Lafite Rothschild. Recognizing the reverence for Lafite in China, the company behind Lafite, DBR Lafite embarked on a mission to create a world-class winery that would capture the essence of Chinese terroir while upholding the standards of first growth wineries.

| Read our review of Long Dai's Wines here.

After scouting for an ideal region, DBR found the Shandong climate to be its sweet spot—warm and moderate, ideal for ripening a variety of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Marselan that is a popular variety in China. The winery’s granite-rich soils stike a balance between yield and concentration, resulting in wines with intense flavours and vibrant acidity. Winemaking at Long Dai closely mirrors the practices employed at Château Lafite, but with a predominantly Chinese team at the helm. The wines are aged in a combination of steel tanks and oak barrels sourced from DBR's own cooperage in Pauillac. The final blending of Long Dai then takes place in France during Christmas week. This approach ensures that every vintage of Long Dai reflects the collective expertise and vision of the entire team, both Chinese and French.

2. Ningxia

Now, let us journey inland to the arid climate of Ningxia. Nestled against the dramatic backdrop of the Helan Mountains and bordering the vast expanse of the Gobi Desert, here lies a wine region unlike any other.

Ningxia's vineyards are a testament to human resilience in the face of nature's extremes. Climate variation is stark: scorching summers give way to frigid winters, forcing producers to bury their vines for protection against the biting cold. This harsh environment, with its dry winds and intense sunlight, imparts a unique character to the grapes. While capable of producing wines with incredible concentration and depth, they can also exhibit a distinctive minty, pyrazine character. Wine expert Emilie Steckenborn suggests this may be due to the short growing season, which can hinder full phenolic ripeness, and the high stress placed on the vines.

Ningxia has been a rising star in the Chinese wine world since the 2010s. A mix of medium-volume producers and smaller boutique wineries have flourished here, fuelled by significant government investment in the region's viticultural potential.

Several wineries stand out. Silver Heights, a boutique winery run by a father-daughter duo, has earned a reputation for its elegant Bordeaux-style blends. Emma Gao, the daughter, honed her craft in Bordeaux, training at the reputable Château Calon-Ségur before returning to China to establish Silver Heights. Committed to organic practices from the outset, the winery produces sought-after Cabernet blends alongside intriguing low-sulphur wines and experimental pét-nats.

Then there's Xige Estate, nestled at the foothills of the Helan Mountains, where the vineyards benefit from cooling winds and well-drained, gravelly soils interspersed with water-retaining red clay. Xige is said to be the country’s champion of Cabernet Gernischt, a grape that thrives in Ningxia's abundant sunshine and arid climate. Their old-vine Gernischt, in particular, yields wines of remarkable complexity and depth, showcasing the grape's potential for greatness. Xige also crafts impressive Chardonnay.

Kanaan Winery, founded by Wang Fang, the daughter of a Helan Qingxue founder (a winery that played a pivotal role in establishing Ningxia's reputation), offers a different perspective. While her family's winery received wide acclaim for its Bordeaux-style blends, Wang Fang was captivated by the allure of German Riesling. Kanaan now produces both elegant reds and aromatic Rieslings, with a focus on appealing to a younger generation of wine drinkers, as can be deduced from looking at their stylish, eye-catching labels.

3. Hebei and Shanxi

Located right next to Beijing, Hebei and Shanxi Provinces are often overlooked as wine regions in favour of their more glamorous counterparts, though they have quietly nurtured a wine industry fuelled by a combination of large-scale production and ambitious boutiques.

Hebei, is a hub for some of China's largest domestic wine producers, with Great Wall Winery in Huailai County one of the most well-known with bottles that have become ubiquitous across the country. The winery's vineyards climb the hills northwest of Beijing, reaching altitudes of up to 3,200 feet (1,000 meters). Here, the grapes benefit from a cool, dry climate, a welcome respite from the humidity of the lower-lying areas.

Just lying to the west is Shanxi, a province known for its dramatic mountains and coal reserves. While still relatively small in terms of production, Shanxi's potential is undeniable. The region's continental climate, tempered by the East Asian Monsoon, provides favorable conditions for grape growing. Its clay-based Loess Plateau soils is incredibly powdery with excellent drainage, and have shown particular promise for Chenin Blanc, Merlot and Cabernet varieties.

Leading the charge in Shanxi is Grace Vineyard, a family-owned winery that has garnered a reputation for producing some of China's most highly regarded wines. Decades ago, the family patriarch, C.K. Chan, was drawn to the region's deep, sandy loam soils, which he believed resembled those found in Bordeaux. This well-drained terroir allows vines to develop deep root systems, resulting in healthy plants and intensely concentrated fruit. Grace Vineyard's wines are celebrated for their dark fruit character, complexity and elegance.

4. Yunnan

We then venture south to Yunnan. At first glance, this region with its subtropical latitude seems an unlikely candidate for quality wine production. Yet, Yunnan holds a secret: altitude. Climbing to heights of 2,600 meters (8,500 feet) and above, the vineyards of Yunnan escape the sweltering heat of the lowlands, enjoying a temperate climate perfectly suited to grape cultivation. The longer growing season, a result of the high altitude, allows for slow, even ripening of the grapes, giving us wines with vibrant acidity and complex aromatics.

The region has recently begun to receive the recognition it deserves. A growing number of boutique wineries are crafting exciting wines that showcase the region's unique terroir. Quite a number of estates - including the two we wish to highlight - have adopted a Burgundian approach, bottling wines from individual village plots to highlight the nuances of their terroir. The involvement of local Tibetan communities in the vineyards, often hand-harvesting and hand-destemming the grapes, adds another layer of authenticity to Yunnan's wines.

Perhaps the most renowned name to emerge from Yunnan, and indeed from China as a whole, is Ao Yun, LVMH's ambitious project in the foothills of the Himalayas. Ao Yun, meaning "flying above the clouds," has become synonymous with Chinese luxury wine. Its wines have impressed in blind tastings alongside esteemed Old World estates, and last year, the 2020 vintage became the first Chinese wine to secure a coveted spot on the Place de Bordeaux, the historic trading hub for the world's finest wines. The success of Ao Yun embodies the optimism and ambition of the Chinese wine industry.

| Read our review of Ao Yun's latest two vintages here.

The high altitude vineyards of Ao Yun benefit from a mild climate, with a long growing season and low humidity that allows for organic viticulture. However, the rugged terrain and remoteness of the vineyards present logistical challenges, making the team's achievements all the more remarkable. Ao Yun's wines are characterized by their intense colour, captivating aromas, and a remarkable elegance and lift, distinguishing them from the more powerful wines of Ningxia.

Another notable producer in Yunnan is Xiaoling Winery, owned and run by Burgundian Bertrand Cristau, who has family ties to the renowned house of Bouchard Père et Fils. Situated on the banks of the Upper Mekong River at an elevation of 2,100 meters (6,900 feet), Xiaoling experiences a unique alpine climate with significant diurnal temperature variation. This, combined with the region's volcanic soils, results in perfumed, medium-bodied red wines with vibrant acidity,.

5. Xinjiang

And finally, our oenological odyssey brings us back to the very landscape that inspired the ancient "Ballad of Liangzhou" – the vast, sun-drenched plains of Xinjiang in the far northwest corner of China which shares borders with Kazakhstan, Tajikistan and Afghanistan and was part of the ancient Silk Road. Grape cultivation and winemaking in Xinjiang dates back over two millennia. It is believed that Greek settlers, venturing east along the Silk Road around 300 BC, introduced grapevines and viticultural practices to this region. Long before the arrival of modern French winemaking techniques, the Uyghur people, who comprise the majority of Xinjiang's population, crafted their own grape wines by crushing grapes by hand, boiling them with water, and fermenting the juice in clay vessels, creating a unique expression of their terroir and culture.

Xinjiang's climate is continental, far removed from the moderating influence of any ocean. The region experiences extremes: scorching summers, frigid winters, abundant sunshine, scarce rainfall and dramatic temperature swings between day and night. Vines must be buried during the winter for protection against freezing temperatures. These harsh conditions, while challenging for viticulture, also contribute to the distinctive character of Xinjiang's wines. The intense sunlight and low rainfall can lead to grapes with high sugar content and low acidity. This has given rise to an impression that Xinjiang wines tend towards sweetness and lack the structure and complexity of wines from other regions.

Winemaking in Xinjiang is also not for the faint of heart. With less than 20mm of annual rainfall, the region still relies on the ancient 'qanat' system, a network of underground tunnels that channel groundwater to irrigate the vineyards. Transport presents another hurdle, and as a result, much of Xinjiang's production has traditionally been destined for bulk wine blends.

Despite these challenges, Xinjiang's unique terroir offers the possibility of crafting distinctive and compelling wines. While bulk wine production still dominates, a new generation of winemakers is emerging, eager to elevate the quality and reputation of Xinjiang wines.

One such pioneer is Puchang Vineyard, a boutique winery committed to showcasing the unique character of Xinjiang's terroir. Puchang Vineyard embraces organic and sustainable viticulture, focusing on lesser-known grape varieties that have adapted well to the region's challenging conditions. These include Marselan, Beichun, and even Rkatsiteli and Saperavi, the latter two are varieties originally from Georgia, introduced to during China's period of close ties with the former Soviet Union. Puchang's experiments with natural winemaking and its exploration of indigenous and unusual varieties have resulted in some of the most interesting and promising wines coming out of China today.

Grape Varietals

During the initial boom of the Chinese wine industry in the 1980s, Bordeaux’s influence reigned supreme in varietal selection. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, the stalwarts of Bordeaux blends, dominated the vineyards.

However, long before these French interlopers arrived, another grape already held sway in China: Cabernet Gernischt. Introduced in the 19th century, its name, loosely translated from German, means "mixed Cabernet." For years, its true identity remained a mystery, but DNA analysis finally revealed it to be none other than Carménère, a grape closely associated with Chile. However, decades of adaptation to Chinese terroir have resulted in a distinct expression of Carménère. This presence of Carménère influence perhaps explaining the characteristic bell pepper (pyrazine) notes often found in domestic Chinese wines.

Another intriguing grape that has found a home in China is Marselan. This relatively recent crossing of Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache, originating in Southern France, has proven particularly well-suited to China's humid regions, such as Shandong, thanks to its resistance to powdery mildew. Marselan produces wines with a Cabernet-like profile but with a softer texture.

And then there are the unexpected guests from Eastern Europe like the Rkatsiteli and Saperavi. These grapes, hailing from Georgia and other regions once part of the Soviet Union, found their way to China during a period of close political ties. Rkatsiteli is a white grape known for its aromatic complexity, and Saperavi is a red capable of producing deeply coloured, age-worthy wines.

The Story of Chinese Wines is still being Written

The Chinese wines we taste today offer a tantalising glimpse of what's to come. Across the country, passionate haigui (海归) - Chinese individuals who have studied abroad in renowned vineyards across the world - returning home with their knowledge to push new boundaries in quality Chinese winemaking.

It's important to remember that many of these wines are still fairly young. Bordeaux-style blends, with their robust tannins and aging potential, require patience and time to fully reveal their complexity. In many cases, winemaking teams are also still fine-tuning their understanding of their vineyards and adapting to the diverse and often challenging weather conditions.

What can we expect from this rapidly evolving winemaking nation of the New World’s New World? Will these wines, like those soldiers in the "Ballad of Liangzhou," ultimately triumph over adversity? Only time will tell. But one thing is certain: the modern story of Chinese wine is a thrilling one to watch. The world is watching, and waiting with bated breath.

@CharsiuCharlie