Sake, Japan’s traditional rice and koji fermented drink which is today recognized by UNESCO as an intangible world heritage is making its way to the Indian market slowly and steadily. It was once an unfamiliar beverage restricted to only premium hotels and restaurants but is now readily spotted in numerous watering holes, with even tasting events across key metro cities. This overdue wave of popularity can be attributed to those curious and craving for something new, as well as the many others  who are fascinated by the aspects of culinary symmetry and cultural exchange.

Over the past few years, many local breweries from Japan have taken part in events directly or in collaboration with the Japanese embassy in India to promote Sake, and have steadily helped to pave inroads to the country. These formative experiences have allowed the breweries to research and test the Indian market and have thus launched some of the earliest touchpoints for locals, with prominent brands who have done so including those such as Dassai, known for its premium Junmai Daiginjo style, as well as Gekkeikan and Ozeki whom both offer premium and entry level Sake, with also Hakutsuru, whose sparkling Sakes are well enjoyed by the growing legion of Sake enthusiasts, particularly in cities such as Delhi, Mumbai, Goa and Bangalore. Supporting these brands are prominent importers of alcoholic beverages who lend their affirmation and validation to these once unknown names, as well as ensuring that to-be fans are given adequate exposure in the form of Sake flights and tasting events that are organised regularly. Several notable Sake breweries such as Masumi and Tatenokawa, have even taken up a stronghold in Mumbai and Delhi.

A masterclass conducted by Sake Club India.

The growing interest in Sake amongst the people has also led to the creation of dedicated and passionate communities like the Sake Club India which has become a gateway for Sake breweries to showcase their Sakes, also regularly conducting tasting events and workshops without the requirement of being an importer for said brewery, thereby giving breweries a fair shot at making their mark in India and testing the waters for a positive reception that would justify making a serious effort to enter the country’s market. These clubs often consist of sommeliers, chefs, bartenders and beverage enthusiasts, which ensures that Sakes are served professionally and consumers are properly educated on the drink. Cultural entities like the Japan Foundation also occasionally engages with local Japanese restaurants and venues to promote Sake as part of a wider endeavour to promote Japan-India bilateral ties. These showcases, regardless of entity, often combines aspects of learning, tasting, artistic displays and of course detailed history on the heritage and evolution of Sake.

Chef Maia Laifungbam is bringing Sake-making to India.

Perhaps most excitingly in this burgeoning chapter of development of Sake in India is the emergence of homegrown Sake brewing. Chef Maia Laifungbam from Bangalore has become one of the first in the country to attempt crafting Sake, which has been made using local rice and through the application and upholding of traditional Japanese craftsmanship practices. Chef Laifungbam is widely considered to be India’s first Sake brewmaster, having trained at the Yamamoto Honke brewery in Kyoto, Japan, and currently serves as the head chef at Roboto, a Goa-based Japanese restaurant. Her attempts at brewing Sake have thus laid the foundation for the Indian Sake era, and has since inspired many more homegrown Sake initiatives, particularly with a focus on the use of local ingredients, which itself plays an important factor in helping to reduce the overall price of the beverage, as well as adding a local flavour and interpretation to the increasingly popular drink. Expect Chef Laifungbam’s Sake to make a showing in Mumbai and Bengaluru come June 2025, with a Nigori (cloudy Sake) and a Junmai already said to be in the works.

Yet, despite the rising popularity of Sake with the Indian people, premium prices and complexities in the regulatory and import processes, as well as constrained logistical capabilities prove to be serious challenges that curtail a wider access to Sake, necessary for its continued rise. At current state, imported alcoholic beverages have to go through multiple layers of tax and excise duties that result in high final retail prices that limits Sakes to largely higher spending consumers. At present, Sake whilst having certainly come a long way in terms of distribution, still largely remains only available in premium hotels, bars and famous liquor shops located in metropolitan cities. Further to that, for quality and the essence of good Sake to be ensured, cold chain storage and transport is needed, which as of yet remains limited in one of the world’s largest and most populous countries – and also one whose climatic conditions are harsh to say the least. Rules and regulation for alcohol in India also differs from state to state, once again exacerbating the necessary paperwork and administrative entanglement that ultimately results in seriously diminished availability to consumers. These myriad of factors contribute to Sake’s present day status as still very much a niche product in India today.

Celebrating World Sake Day with a Sake and Indian cuisine pairing.

Despite facing all these hurdles, make no mistake - Sake is getting more popular by the day in India. Whilst traditionally enjoyed with Japanese cuisine, with mainstay dishes like sushi and tempura, Sake is now also being increasingly paired with Indian cuisine. The smooth, umami-rich flavor of Sake has been surprising to many in how well it compliments a wide range of Indian flavours. Mild Junmai Sake goes well with tandoori dishes, whilst sweet Nigori works with wonders with Indian desserts, much like the cherry on the cake. This refreshing crossover has opened up new possibilities for chefs and sommeliers across the country, allowing them to get imaginative and experimental in coming up with food pairing menus, especially popular in fusion restaurants and fine dining spaces. Sake in India is still very much an untold story, yet it is brimming with potential. Whilst challenging in its availability and accessibility in the country, it can be said that every now and then a key player comes to peel away at each layer only to tell a story of Sake that has only left fans ever amazed by its craftsmanship. As more people across India discover and appreciate the flavours, one sip at a time, they thus begin to better familiarise themselves with Sake’s unique flavours, and in turn start to understand how to pair the fine beverage with local cuisine. The versatility and popularity as a result inevitably fuels the wider and more passionate efforts made to make Sakes ever more accessible to the everyday consumer. It may just be starting but don’t be too surprised if in a decades time Sake finds its way to becoming a regular feature at dinner tables across India, and the drink of choice at local cocktail bars. The adventure has just begun but appreciation grows sip by sip. 

Kanpai!

Written by Shalini Kanojia