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Gin Reviews

Sipsmith London Dry Gin vs Sipsmith V.J.O.P: A Very Junipery Battle of the London Drys


The story of Sipsmith is a fascinating one in the world of Gin. The brand is often credited as one of the major forces that helped spur a craft gin renaissance in London since its founding in 2008. You see, it was the founders of Sipsmith, childhood friends Sam Galsworthy and Fairfax Hall, who filed a petition to revise an archaic 1823 law forbidding the issuance of licenses to operate any distillation still under 1,800 litres in capacity. Their lobbying proved successful, and the almost 200-year old law was revised. Sipsmith got the green light to open its distillery - the first new copper still distillery established in London since the early 19th century. Consequently as well, this opened the doors for aspiring craft distillers in London to start distilling their own genuinely small-batch craft spirits as well! 

One Shot Distillation vs Double Shot Distillation: The Sipsmith Way

Shortly after Sam and Fairfax acquired the license to start Sipsmith, they were joined by spirits veteran Jared Brown as the distillery's new Master Distiller. The trio had a vision of making historically authentic London Dry Gin “the way it used to be made, the way it should be made”. To do so, Brown dug into his personal drinks archives spanning 1400 books to research gin recipes dating back to as early as 1738. And from his research, the trio ascertained that a truly classic London Dry would have to be made via “One-Shot distillation”. 

For the uninitiated, “One-Shot” distillation is a process whereby a distiller would add a precise, targeted proportion of botanicals into the neutral grain spirit prior to distillation in a copper still, such that the heart of the distillate comes out ready to be bottled – requiring no further additions beyond filtered water.


One Shot vs Double Shot Gin Distillation


According to Sipsmith, the One-Shot method is more laborious and time consuming, and hence often eschewed by the majority of gin distilleries today, who instead use the concentrate method, also known as the Double Shot method. With concentrate or Double-Shot gins, a distiller would place a much higher concentrate of botanicals into the still such that the concentrated distillate that comes out can be even further diluted, or “stretched”, with a separate neutral grain spirit that has not gone through the same copper distillation. The benefit of Sipsmith’s One-Shot method, when executed right, is that the distiller is able to capture the perfect amount of flavours and aromas just from one single shot of spirit, rather than having to blend different runs or batches of distillates, or even potentially add preservatives or chemicals, to achieve a certain flavour profile.

Read more: Our brand deep dive on Sipsmith Gin!

A Sipsmith Head-To-Head: Comparing the London Dry and V.J.O.P

Today, we're trying to a pair of Sipsmith gin expressions, both of which are made via Sipsmith's trademark One-Shot distillation method. We have the original classic Sipsmith London Dry Gin, as well as it's extra-boozy, juniper-enhanced variant, the Sipsmith V.J.O.P., or Very Junipery Over Proof Gin.

The classic London Dry Gin, bottled at 41.6% ABV, is distilled with ten botanicals, which include: juniper, orange peels, lemon peels, english and bulgarian coriander, orris root, liquorice root, angelica root, cinnamon bark, cassia bark and almonds. A decidedly classic selection that, in Sipsmith's own words, "nothing (that would) surprise an 18th or 19th century gin distiller".

Later, Sipsmith released the Sipsmith V.J.O.P, a navy-strength version of the London Dry amped up with more juniper influence. Here, the same botanical mix as the London Dry is used, except that the distillery doubled the amount of juniper, while increasing the period of maceration from one to three days. As a final touch, even more juniper is vapor-infused through a Carter Head still. 

Let's get to it! 


Sipsmith London Dry Gin,  41.6% ABV - Tasting Notes

Appearance: Clear

Aroma: Gentle piney notes of Juniper creates a earthy, musky aroma at the fore, rounded out by the subtle sweetness of light lemon zest, orange peels, cardamom and licorice. 

Taste: Traditionally piney with a juniper flavor that, while apparent, doesn't come across sharp or biting in any way. It's melded with notes of lemon cream and orange zest, and a mild spiciness of cassia, coriander. The texture on this gin is soft and gentle, without much viscosity or oiliness.

Finish: While not as apparent on the aroma and palate, the spices now kick in on the finish. I get bolder notes of coriander, pepper, and angelica root surfacing, integrated pleasantly with mildly bitter orange peels.



Overall Thoughts

A lovely and well-constructed gin that stays true to those classic London Dry flavors of pine and citrus! Yes, those piney juniper notes are ever present, but they do exercise a unique restraint - coming through mellow and balanced rather than sharp and hot. I believe this would make the Sipsmith London Dry remarkably approachable for gin beginners, while still being pleasing for the fans of juniper.

It's easy-going enough to sip on its own, and if paired with a tonic, I would probably drink it with an Indian Tonic or a Citrus Tonic. For mixing, I would reserve this one for more spirit-forward cocktails that allow the gin to speak for itself, else the Sipsmith London Dry might be too subdued and lack enough punchiness to withstand bolder ingredients in other cocktails. 

Sipsmith V.J.O.P, 57.7% ABV - Tasting Notes

Appearance: Clear

Aroma: The juniper comes out bold, palpable, and domineering! The nose feels overwhelmingly piney, though some citrus manages to squeeze its way in there, peppering the aroma with drizzles of orange and lemon peels and a subtle cedar note.

Taste: Sharp and piquant, the flavor of juniper carries through to the palate. There's a waxiness and an assertive warmth to the gin that coats the tongue. Some bitter lemon peels, licorice and cedar oak shavings emerges, packing added complexity and balance to the body. 

Finish: Not unexpectedly, juniper remains steadfast all the way through to the finish! Slowly, the juniper quietens down to allow wafts of orange, cinnamon and bitter dark cacao to express themselves and round out the finish. 


 

Overall Thoughts

Unapologetically bold and punchy, the Sipsmith V.J.O.P knows how to give the people what they want. From start to end, you're greet with characteristic flavors of juniper, juniper and yup, you guessed it, more juniper! The V.J.O.P would be a great candidate for a workhorse bar staple, offering a distinctive backbone to withstand a wide range of mixable drinks, while delivering those trademark crisp and classic juniper flavors that's made extra delicious with added oakiness and spice!

 

With juniper & joy,

@lotusroot518