Last week local Singaporean distributor and independent bottler Nanyang Whisky held a showcase of some of the rums in their portfolio - and one of them certainly stood out for me. 

The rum tasting event was organised at Madame Bar, and delivered an unforgettable experience. An extensive selection of rums and bourbons greeted me upon arrival. For a spirit lover, this is stepping into paradise. Clearly, this fine establishment takes its spirits seriously. The bar counter extended across from the showcase. Just a stone’s throw away, tables of larger size invited bigger groups to start the experience.

An amazing collection of rums and bourbons greets you upon arrival.

What really won me over was the ambience. The comfortable furniture and spacious arrangement created an intimate atmosphere. The soft red illumination was soothing, while simultaneously evoking a sense of mystery and anticipation towards the rum I would be trying. 

The ambience was highly apt for the event, featuring spacious arrangements.

Well, it was my curiosity towards the interaction between rum and whisky that brought me here. As a whisky enthusiast, I was intrigued by the rum influence in Balvenie 14. I was impressed by how cask finishing in Caribbean rum casks could significantly amplify the sweetness and elevate the complexity. Since then, I have sampled various rums to understand more about this spirit. However, they were all made from molasses, resulting in a character completely foreign to me. Yet, I always believed there was some elusive bridge between my familiar world of single malts and the adventurous territory of funky, high-ester rums.

As a peat-head, I also hope for a rum that could be bold enough to incorporate peat influences to satisfy my cravings. While these expectations might seem too greedy and perhaps impossible, I am thrilled to share that the search is over.

About Labourdonnais Distillerie

Domaine de Labourdonnais – the estate where the distillery is located.

Distillerie de Labourdonnais is situated in Northern Mauritius. It was established in 2006, when Mauritius lifted a ban on “rhum agricole”, the production of rum from fresh sugarcane juice. Before that, rum was only made from molasses. Why? Economically, it was more profitable to utilise sugarcane to produce refined sugar, instead of rum.

Distillerie de Labourdonnais specialises in pure sugarcane rum, sourcing raw materials from surrounding sugarcane fields. It leverages its unique expertise and craftsmanship to create unique recipes.

The distillery.

Sugarcane is pressed, and the juice is sent to the distillation plant. The juice is filtered to remove impurities such as small fibres and transferred to a tank. Yeast is added to kickstart the fermentation, and the mixture is kept for 44 hours. A continuous supply of airflow ensures aeration, allowing a rich culture of yeast to form. Once the optimal yeast concentration is achieved, a portion of the mixture is sent to the fermentation tank, where fresh sugarcane juice is added.

The fermentation process takes 35 hours under controlled conditions, where temperature and pH are closely monitored. Throughout the process, the alcohol percentage will rise to 6-8%.

Fresh sugarcane is used to produce rum.

The mixture is distilled using a column still. The distillate passes through a condenser and is collected inside 25,000L stainless steel tanks. The distillate could be bottled immediately as white rum or further aged in Fresh or American oak barrels.

For premium offerings, the rums are matured in barrels previously used for Cognac, Bourbon, Port, or American Whiskey, as well as in new Sauternes and French oak casks. These unique casks serve to elevate the complexity of each rum.

Liquid Treasured bottlings.

This particular Labourdonnais expression was bottled by Liquid Treasures, a German independent bottler founded in 2008 by Vincent Löhn. Each release is bottled from a single cask, highlighting the individual characteristics of each barrel. The brand has a reputation for featuring artistic labels. Trust me, these labels are mesmerizing. 

Cask selection is taken seriously. Their stringent selection is testament to their commitment to quality. Barrels must meet a high standard to ensure each bottling is worthy of its moniker. Liquid Treasures has released whiskies from various distilleries and has since diversified into exceptional rums and other fine spirits. 

Crafted by Distillerie de Labourdonnais, this is a rhum agricole (fresh sugarcane juice rum) distilled in 2010 and aged for 10 years in a refill ex-Islay whisky cask. Let’s dive into it. 

Rum Review: Labourdonnais 2010 Rum, 10 Years Old, Bottled by Liquid Treasures (51.9% ABV)

Tasting Notes

Aroma: Fruity notes are prominent. Cherry tomato, red apples, watermelon, banana, and orange Fanta. The fruity aromas extend into brown sugar, apricots, peaches, and creamy lemon curd. The crescendo continues with tomato vines, celery, and juniper. A gentle swirl of the glass reveals a hint of anise and a “cabin smell” reminiscent of stepping into an aircraft. Finally, at the base, I get some umami in the form of salted black olives, a subtle smoke complemented by a gentle vegetal note.

Taste: The tomato notes hit first, complemented by aged mandarin orange peel, fresh sugarcane sweetness, and a hint of earthy peat at the end. Subsequently, herbal and vegetal notes become more apparent. I get the bitter-sweet profile of dried goji berries, some resemblance to Pi Pa Gao’s medicinal sweetness, and plums. Towards the end, there is Earl Grey tea, grapefruit peel bitterness, and subtle smoke.

Finish: Long, clean, and pleasantly sweet with lingering herbal notes, abundant tomatoes, and ginseng earthiness. It is a complementary fusion of vegetal, fruity, and delicate peat flavours.

My Thoughts

This is an integrity bottling, meaning it is cask strength, unchill-filtered, and has no colouring. Unlike many rums, this has no added sugar and no flavour additives. In my humble opinion, this allows the spirit to speak for itself. While for us drinkers, we get to appreciate the spirit in its purest form.

Labourdonnais 2010 is highly approachable for whisky lovers curious about rum. I believe this could be attributed to the clarity provided by the fresh sugarcane distillate. It balances ripe fruit with vegetal greenness. This is complemented by subtle peat, which sneakily comes in at the end to elevate the whole experience.

Please enjoy this spirit neat. Water could be added, albeit sparingly, as the flavours are so delicate. If you are still undecided on whether to venture into the world of rum, please do. There is so much variety, craftsmanship, and even innovation. If buying full bottles is daunting, tasting events or visiting a bar is a great way to broaden your palate and perspective.

Once again, I would like to extend my gratitude to the gentlemen behind Nanyang Whisky and Madame Bar. The event was suitable for everyone, whether you are a beginner, an aficionado, or just seeking a good time. I thoroughly enjoyed the session, and most importantly, the conversations.

Penned by Pivoine