I still remember that delightful evening nearly two years ago, hosted by Gregory Vernant and La Maison du Whisky Singapore that saw a pairing of fine French cuisine with exquisite Martiniquan rhum agricole from Neisson. And we were all gathered there to celebrate the premiere of Gregory’s latest masterpiece - the Zetwal, a vatting of vintages usually reserved for the Armada series (2000, 2005, 2012, and 2013), of which limited quantities would be released every subsequent year. The first release in 2023 was dedicated to Polaris, the celestial North Star.

Now nearly two years later, with a bottle of Polaris to call my own, I was inspired to revisit the liquid, to taste and discern its flavours in a more quiet setting.

On the nose, it struck a fine balance between a fresh, vibrant rhum agricole, and that of a more mature, elegant rhum of considerable age. I was immediately greeted by those zesty citrus notes, bright, with a tinge of fizz, much like a Fanta orange soda. Once I got past that initial sweetness, a more chocolatey profile emerged, like a layered praline chocolate cake, interchanging between the hazelnuts and the sweetness of milk chocolates. There were subtle savoury notes too, sea salt and caramel perhaps, before ending on a slightly medicinal or herbal note of ginseng.

Just as the nose, the palate was on one hand sprightly and fresh, while on the other, underpinned by a deep, unctuous bitterness, which the only thing I could really relate that bitterness to was a ginseng chicken broth. It wasn’t unpleasant in any way, and in fact was key in keeping the Polaris grounded and heavy. Alongside that were richer notes of warm, toasted chestnuts, a hint of brine, and the unmistakable grassiness of a rhum agricole. The finish was long, juicy, with the slightest touch of tannins from the time spent in wood, coupled with hazelnut praline and milk chocolates again, and the appearance of dried hawthorn berries.

The Polaris then was a true masterpiece of blending, and what I really admired about it was Neisson’s ability to meld the elements of young and old so seamlessly, and those layers of complexity that seem to flow so naturally on the palate. It’s difficult for me to imagine how the subsequent releases could possibly integrate or improve much further, and I’m looking forward to being pleasantly surprised when I taste the Sirius soon.