Several evenings ago, we were hosted by Chef Jeremy Gillon and The Rum Cartel for a tasting of Takamaka’s rums, accompanied by brand ambassador Jude Joseph. Today, the Takamaka brand has become somewhat emblematic of Seychelles itself, with its label drawing inspiration from the five distinct colour bands of the nation’s flag. However, despite its current widespread recognition, Seychelles has not always been associated with rums, nor with the sugar industry. Indeed, the sugar industry never took root on the island, and the sugar canes that were present were primarily utilised in the production of “Baka,” a traditional cane juice beer.

In the year 2002, the d’Offay family, led by brothers Richard and Bernard d'Offray, established the Trois Freres Distillery in La Plaine St Andre. This site, a cherished national heritage, harks back to the 18th century and was once a tropical spice plantation. The brand’s name, Takamaka, draws inspiration from a similarly enchanting local bay and has since become a national icon, being the island’s inaugural and sole commercial rum producer. The distillery produces rums from both molasses and sugarcane juice, with the latter procured from the four regions of Mahe Island, cultivated by a cooperative of over 30 local farmers. Within the distillery resides both traditional pot and column stills, with the majority of their rums being a blend of both, with, if memory serves me correctly, a ratio of 99 to 1, favouring the column distillate over the pot.

During this tasting, we had the privilege of sampling a rare rum, even within the Le Clos Series — Takamaka’s most premium and purest selection, often crafted as single cask or small batch, and bottled at cask strength, all to reveal the authentic flavours of Takamaka’s. The particular rum in question was bottled for Constance Hotels and Resorts, distilled from 100% sugarcane juice in October 2017, and bottled in November 2021, merely a month before its fourth anniversary. It was also identified as a rum from Batch no. 1159, with a limited production of 625 bottles (exclusively available on the island) and at a cask strength of 50% abv.

I was unable to ascertain whether this was entirely pot still distillate, but tasting it alongside the 2018 Takamaka for Habitation Velier, and considering that most rums in the Le Clos series are pure pot still, I would venture to guess it was entirely pot still distillate as well. However, one intriguing aspect that has piqued my curiosity is the timing of this rum’s release, particularly since it was bottled in late-2021, almost a year before the inaugural series of Le Clos was launched in late 2022/23.

On the nose, it exhibited some resemblance to its sibling, bottled for Habitation Velier. Despite nearly four years of tropical maturation, the rum remained exceptionally fresh, vibrant, and uplifting, bursting with nuances of green, vegetal notes that bore a striking similarity to an agave spirit. These were complemented by the subtle notes of barely-ripe white guavas and waves of medicinal and menthol undertones. Yet, despite its many similarities to the aforementioned Habitation Velier, it was decidedly less intense, and perhaps a touch more fruity, with hints of green packham pears and vanilla.

Much like the nose, the palate was predominantly sweet, grassy, and herbal, notes that we have come to associate agave spirits with, whilst simultaneously maintaining a crispness accompanied by a subtle oily texture. As the rum opens, the flavours take a slightly different turn, developing a hint of savouriness, or perhaps what I might term as rancio. In its finish, it becomes decidedly more fruitier, with pronounced red fruits, a hint of tangerine, and the return of those grassy agave notes at the very end.

Without a shadow of a doubt, The Constance stands as a rather remarkable rum — one crafted and matured prior to current Master Blender Steven Rioux’s arrival at the Takamaka. It boasts a singularly distinctive character, as evidenced by its similarities with the 2018 Habitation Velier. In essence, it serves as a time capsule, capturing the unique flavours of Takamaka from before. I daresay it would be an intriguing experience to partake in a comparative tasting with a more contemporary Takamaka rum, and discern the evolution of its flavours.

Your occasional rum addict!

@weixiang_liu