Sake today is beloved across the world, and has been elevated to amongst the classiest beverages; one of finesse, craftsmanship and savoir faire - a truly remarkable story to emerge out of Asia.

Yet, it was just in the 1980's that there appeared to be a growing rift between Japanese society and its national drink of choice. The Japanese people were increasingly moving to urban cities and finding their work in offices, whilst Sakes were dangerously becoming mass produced and competing solely on price as a result of its inability to remain relevant. Sakes were overly heavy on the palate, and bulky in flavour, over the top and simply too much. These Sakes were known as futsushu - ungraded Sakes that did not adhere to quality standards. At the same time, Japanese consumers were increasingly exposed to Western liquors such as French fine wines and powerful American Bourbons. It seemed like Sake was heading towards a spiral - yet, as is evident today, a reversal of fortunes somehow catalysed along the way. Now how did that happen, you say? Kubota is in no small part a good place to start.

A Brief History Of A Sake Pioneer

Located in the snowy northern tip of the Honshu mainland of Japan, the Niigata Prefecture is probably most associated with snowcapped mountains and ski resorts today. It's a beautiful and serene region that is of course so much more - well, it's also home to some of the most iconic Sakes of Japan. It is here that we find the Echigo Toji Guild, one of three master Sake guilds of Japan, legendary for cultivating generations of highly skilled Sake brewmasters. And with great brewmasters in the backyard, it's only par for the course to expect equally great Sake breweries to reside in Niigata. In fact, it's also home to some of the highest quality rice that Japan produces, namely Gohyakumangoku and Koshitanrei, along with some of the purest waters that emerge from those picture perfect snowy peaks. Again, all foundational ingredients for excelling Sake making. 

Asahi Shuzo, the creator of Kubota.

And that takes us to one Asahi Shuzo, a Sake brewery that was founded by the Hirasawa family in 1830, located specifically in the Nagaoka district of the Niigata Prefecture. Originally named Kubotaya, the Sake brewery which finds itself in the vicinity of Mount Asahi (or Asahiyama) would take on the name Asahi Shuzo sometime in the mid-Meiji Period when two Hirasawa brothers began the process of formalising the family's brewery as a company, as a new era of Japan's history was ushered in. They would thus name their Sakes Asahiyama, which they would produce for the over the next half a century. Through that time, Asahiyama was known for constantly embracing modern technology, such as transitioning to the use of enamel fermentation tanks (today it's further upgraded to stainless steel), and would take the top prize in numerous Sake competitions, whilst periodically introducing innovative new Sakes such as a low alcohol Junmai Sake and even an early version of a Sparkling Sake!

Never Not Reinventing Itself; The Creation Of Tanrei Karakuchi

Yet by the 1980's the entire Sake category was beginning to face a rift. People were increasingly moving to metropolitan cities like Tokyo, and at the same time Sakes fell out of taste with their heavy and strong flavours, with prices falling and quality unassured. Fourth-generation Toru Hirasawa thus decided to study the landscape more closely and found that those living in the city also enjoyed rising incomes and had actually developed an even greater taste for fine alcohol beverages. Nevertheless Asahi Shuzo's Hirasawa was careful not to be a producer of phantom Sake - Sakes that were highly sought after and prized yet difficult to get hands on - and thus declared that the brewery must find an innovative way to produce high quality Sakes at a fair price. 

Together with his right hand man, Teiji Shima, they would create the iconic Tanrei Karakuchi style. Crisp, clean and dry, this new style of Sake was unheard of, and yet paired perfectly with the lighter flavours of metropolitan cuisine. Combining local Niigata Gohyakumangoku rice, which had already made the Prefecture renown as one of the greatest rice producing regions of Japan, and the soft spring waters that flows underground beneath the brewery, they would thus present Kubota, an everything from Niigata high grade Sake. Thus making its 1985 debut was a new Sake that would be named after Asahi Shuzo's original name Kubotaya, paying homage to its heritage, and was designed to taste great chilled or warmed, and to be enjoyed no matter the season of food served, always remaining fresh and elegant. This would come to represent Niigata's signature style, and would restore the love for Sake - this was now the era of high quality premium Sake.

The launch of Kubota some 40 years ago had set off a new direction for Sakes, inspiring many other breweries to focus on high quality Sakes instead, which had the domino effect of resulting in a wave of rising quality across Japan's national drink, thus reversing course on Sake's once near fatal fate. Asahi Shuzo would thus enjoy great success and emerge as Niigata's largest Sake brewery. With its unique arrangement of having not just one but two Toji's from the legendary Echigo guild, what started out as just two Kubota expressions - the Senjyu (a Ginjo grade Sake) and the Hyakujyu (a Tokubetsu Honjozo special grade Sake) - has now grown to almost twenty expressions within the Kubota flagship lineup. Each Kubota expression is typically given a name composed of a numerical prefix and the jyu suffix (jyu translated as "Celebrations"), for example: 

Hyakujyu: 100 Celebrations (Hyaku meaning 100)

Senjyu: 1,000 Celebrations (Sen meaning 1,000)

Manjyu: 10,000 Celebrations (Man meaning 10,000)

Every bottle of Kubota Sake is further given a traditional Japanese Washi paper label, paying homage to its Japanese heritage and safeguarding of traditions. Each label is made traditionally with paper from mulberry trees, and thus a closer look reveals the natural characteristics of the mulberry wood.

A Century In, Now Looking Ahead To The Future

Whilst the famed Niigata Sake brewery celebrates its 105th anniversary of its official Asahi Shuzo name, and the 40th anniversary from when the iconic Kubota Sake was first debuted, giving rise to the movement towards fine Sakes with its then revolutionary Tanrei Karakuchi style, the brewery continues to emphasise the importance of remaining innovative and being willing to experiment. Asahi Shuzo was amongst the pioneers of adopting the new enamel fermentation vessels in the early 1900's, and yet remained equally quick to once again transition to the now gold standard stainless steel, which has allowed its Sakes to take on even more freshness and quality, whilst preserving more of its aromatics. Asahi Shuzo has even founded the Asahi Noken agricultural research corporation to work even more closely with local farmers to help preserve, promote and enhance Sake rice (known as sakemai) farming and development - this has yielded an even more ideal Sake rice which is low in protein, consistent in appearance, and whose grains are large and evenly-sized. The brewery thus hopes to continue to bring together the farmers, brewers and even label designers to help take the abundance that Niigata has to offer and crystallise them all into great Sake hundreds of years on into the future.

The famous rice paddies of Niigata.

“We should be proud of what we’ve achieved with Kubota. That label sparked off a wave of interest in premium sake that has continued to this day. At the same time, we shouldn’t get so caught up in past achievements that we stop trying to evolve." says Yasushi Hosoda, the current President of Asahi Shuzo, and the first to be appointed from outside the founding Hirasawa family.

To that end, Asahi Shuzo, has sought to keep up with evolving tastes and preferences, more recently focusing their efforts on creating a more aromatic Sake that has become more alluring to younger Sake fans, which has resulted in their unveiling of a Kubota Junmai Daiginjo. The Kubota Junmai Daiginjo was initially released as a limited edition Sake in 2017, but its great reception has convinced the Sake brewer to make it a year-round flagship expression as part of the Kubota family - the first instance in 25 years! The brewery has also taken it upon themselves to deliver their own interpretation of a Sparkling Sake, and thus also added the Kubota Sparkling Sake in 2021. More recently, Kubota has also worked in conjunction with cult favourite Japanese outdoors brand Snow Peak to debut the Kubota Seppou Black Sake and Seppou White Sake pair that is said to be yin and yangs, wherein the Black edition is umami and made with the ancestral Yamahai method, whilst the White edition is fresh and floral, made with the low temperature Sokujo method - blend the two and you'll get the iconic Kubota Manjyu Sake!

Blending tradition and innovation.

Ultimately as Asahi Shuzo looks towards the next 100 years, with 105 years of heritage and history, it's clear that the Sake brewery that so innovatively created the Tanrei Karakuchi style will continue to seek to preserve the essence of Kubota whilst vigorously discovering new interpretations that will keep it beloved by Sake lovers around the world.

“The essential element that links all varieties of Kubota is its crispness,... We want to make sake that reveals its quality from the very first sip. Kubota has a delicious flavor that the phrase ‘tanrei karakuchi’ in itself cannot fully express. That is what we want to convey to our customers. We don’t want our sake to just be for certain special occasions. We want to offer accessible sake that people can enjoy in their daily lives.” says Hosoda.

And this fine day, we're getting to taste along the range of Kubota ourselves! Hosted at the always splendid 67 Pall Mall Singapore, we got to hear the story and appreciate the essence of Kubota right from its brewers! This was a showcase put together by Singapore's Criadera Concepts which represents Kubota for trade in the country.

Without further ado - let's get to tasting!

Sake Review: Kubota Sparkling Sake | 久保田 スパークリング日本酒

Based on the Junmai Sake, this Sparkling Sake was made using only rice, koji and water, with the rice being Gohyakumangoku that's polished to 65%, and also this has been brought to 12% ABV to match classic sparkling wines. The fizziness here is created through the use of carbon dioxide.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Clear with a thin layer of effervescence.

Aroma: Mellow yet distinctly rich aromas. Opens initially with creamy banana and vanilla sweetness, gradually deepening into a more pronounced ricey character over time. Muscat grape notes accompanied by soft touches of honey, joined by clear, authentic earthy and grainy nuances that emphasise the rice character. Towards the end, a subtle mineral hint emerges, reminiscent of petrichor of light rain on concrete.

Taste: Crisp and vibrant, with a robust yet sharply precise acidity that reminds me of pear cider. Its got a dense but finely textured creamy effervescence giving us this polished and pleasing mouthfeel, complemented by a consistent, gentle fizz that carries through from the initial sip to the finish. More pears mingle with softer notes of ripe banana and creamy rice pudding, underlined throughout by a balanced mineral character.

Finish: A short-to-medium length finish, remaining very clean yet with a subtle grain aroma lingering just briefly before fading. There’s a distinct, dry lemon-peel quality that persists clearly at the very end.

My Thoughts

This is a crisp, dry, and nicely structured sparkling sake. It's precisely balanced and notably restrained, very much reminiscent of a drier, more austere pear cider.

It skilfully balances sweet-tart notes against a clear dry and mineral backbone, making it a fantastic welcome drink. For a Kubota, it does lean towards sweetness a little more, but the signature Kubota acidity ensures it stays refreshing, never tipping into the cloying territory. It’s an excellent alternative to the overly sweet styles of sparkling sakes we typically encounter. 

Sake Review: Senshin Junmai Daiginjo Sake | 純米大吟醸 洗心ｾﾝｼﾝ

The Senshin (洗心) is poetically named “To cleanse the heart” or more accurately "Sophisticated Mind" which should tell you what the brewers were trying to achieve here. This is often regarded as Asahi Shuzo’s masterpiece aside from the Kubota series proper. If you study the label carefully, you'll notice the absence of the "Kubota" branding. Senshin is technically branded under its own name, but it is made by Asahi Shuzo and often discussed in context with Kubota as a flagship beyond flagship. 

This was brewed with a once nearly-extinct local Niigata rice variety called Takanenishiki (revived by Asahi Shuzo’s toji), which has been milled down to a whopping 28% rice polishing ratio! The Sake was then aged slowly for an extended period and bottled at peak maturity.

Tasting Notes

Appearance: Clear.

Aroma: Exceptionally clean, delicate, and free from any heavy yeastiness or earthiness (described as ginjo-ka). There is a distinctly clear sweetness reminiscent of freshly-steamed Japonica rice, paired with subtle aromas of orchard fruits including ripe snow pears, white peaches and bright pomelos.

Taste: A noticeably rich and velvety texture that coats the tongue comfortably, and yet feels ethereal and nearly weightless at the same time. Opens with such subtle and refined notes, showing a crystalline melon sweetness accompanied by gentle notes of vanilla, sandalwood, and a faint cedar character. As it warms up, we get more juicy white peaches and a more prominent spiced character.

Finish: Very clean, leaving only a faint suggestion of soft umami and a mild lactic note. There is a distinct lemon peel dryness (kire) that persists gently at the back of the throat. 

My Thoughts

This is a strikingly pure and delicate sake, embodying the extreme end of Niigata’s tanrei karakuchi style.

The Senshin opens impressively rich but quickly transitions to an exceptionally dry and clean finish – dryness persisting throughout the palate. It's interesting how temperature-sensitive its subtle flavours are—when initially served chilled, the taste is so subtle it nearly fades away by the finish, but as it warms to room temperature, it starts revealing a delicate peachy sweetness in the mid-palate. 

Its subtlety may challenge drinkers who prefer bold, punchy flavours, but patience and careful sipping rewards you, gradually revealing those nuances of rice sweetness, faint lactic softness, and more of those delicate fruit notes. This is best enjoyed on its own or paired only with very delicate dishes, such as premium-grade sashimi.

Sake Review: Kubota Senjyu Junmai Ginjo Sake | 久保田 千寿 純米吟醸

Senjyu translates as 1,000 Celebrations, and is core to the Kubota Tanrei Karakuchi style.  This label has long been the most ubiquitous Kubota, often seen in izakayas and restaurants.

It is made with Niigata produced Gohyakumangoku rice that's polished down to 50% for Koji and 55% for the rice mash.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light cream, clear.

Aroma: Fresh, clean and mellow, with noticeable creaminess. It has clear layers of rice-based earthiness, alongside a subtle, fresh green note and a faint trace of yeastiness.

Taste: Crisp and refreshing, with a moderate weight. Opens with an initial pop of dryness that quickly fades. Very mild notes of melon sweetness, though the main focus is on the expression of its rice character, showcasing noticeable distinct earthiness, noticeable umami, clear minerality, and a slight saline quality. Soft notes of ripe bananas emerge subtly.

Finish: Clean, with light vanilla notes and continued minerality.

My Thoughts

The Kubota Senjyu is rather straightforward and very drinkable. It's refined yet clearly rice and earth-driven, especially when we contrast this with the ultra-delicate Senshin. Rather than a pronounced fruity aroma, it offers subtle hints of orchard fruit, a refreshing green quality, clean minerality, and moderate dryness. Great for versatile food pairings.

Sake Review: Kubota Manjyu Junmai Daiginjo Sake | 久保田 萬寿 純米大吟醸

Going with the Kubota naming style, Manjyu translates as 10,000 Celebrations. This is the official flagship Junmai Daiginjo of Kubota and represents the pinnacle of Asahi Shuzo's craft.

It is made with Niigata produced Gohyakumangoku rice that's polished down to 50% for Koji and 33% for the rice mash, which is in turn made with an undisclosed locally sourced Niigata varietal.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Clear.

Aroma: Rich, expressive and aromatic. It opens cleanly in a classic ginjo style, with prominent fresh, juicy orchard fruits - red apples and pears - with subtle strawberries, and a touch of muscat grape. A noticeable creaminess develops as you let it breathe, alongside mild nutty undertones of gently toasted pine nuts. A mild slate-like minerality on the back.

Taste: Immediately expressive and aromatic, both sweet and dry at the same time. The initial attach is crisp, with a surprisingly broad palate with layers of thick, rice-derived flavours supported by a gentle nuttiness. A richer honeyed sweetness emerges alongside fresh fruit notes of crushed strawberries, melons and some sweet-tart berries, gradually leading into deeper earthy, umami notes.

Finish: It cuts swift and clean, leaving behind a dryness, cedar and a subtle vanilla-like character. Dryness really persists at the back of the throat, with some toasted almond and a faint touch of white pepper spice.

My Thoughts

Of all Kubota expressions I've tasted, this is easily my favourite.

The Manjyu is the most aromatic, flavourful and expressive. It's got a precisely balanced acidity and sweetness, and pairs exceptionally well with richer fried dishes, particularly tempura. As it warms slightly toward room temperature, additional layers of rice sweetness and umami become more prominent. This is the perfect exemplar of the Tanrei Karakuchi style while still providing substantial flavour complexity. The equilibrium between fruit sweetness, umami, and acidity is impressively precise. Considering its price point, this is a phenomenal sake.

Sake Review: Kubota Daiginjo Genshu Sake | 久保田 大吟醸原酒

An international exclusive, this is undiluted and so comes in completely as it is brewed, which brings intense flavours and a full bouquet and texture at 17% ABV. This is brewed using Niigata produced Gohyakumangoku rice that's polished to 50% for the koji and 40% for the rice mash, which is made from a locally sourced Niigata rice.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Light cream; clear.

Aroma: Immediately assertive, opening clearly with delicate floral ginjo notes, then quickly followed by a fruity sweetness of fresh apples and ripe melons. There's an intriguing fresh greeness resembling Japanese Kyuri cucumber, accompanied by subtle, coastal-like notes.

Taste: Intensely rich with pronounced umami. The texture is noticeably thick and velvety, opening with a prominent karakuchi and substantial rice character, joined by rich honey, ripe white peaches and the distinct sweetness of Japonica rice. There's a subtle umami quality similar to enoki mushrooms and a growing warmth and spice on the back of the palate.

Finish: Clean and dry, carrying forward a gentle, rounded grain sweetness along with a soft, creamy lactic note at the end.

My Thoughts

This is big on aroma, flavour and body, while still retaining much of that Tanrei Karakuchi crisp-dryness. The alcohol warmth is noticeable, but it is skilfully managed, never becoming harsh or overwhelming. I also love how the creamy quality gets more and more noticable as the sake warms.

This maintains the refinement typical of Kubota, yet expresses a far more pronounced umami character. Its honeyed sweetness and robustness provide enough weight to pair well with rich dishes – think Tonkatsu or braised meats – while the clean, dry finish still ensures it cleanses the palate effectively. Compared to the more moderate lines like the Kubota Manjyu, the Genshu is less subtle, less complex, but much more assertive and likely more satisfying for drinkers who prefer pronounced flavours rather than searching carefully for those subtleties. I'd venture that this richer profile is especially suitable for Southeast Asian palates; think bold Singaporean, Malaysian and Thai dishes.

Sake Review: Kubota Junmai Daiginjo Sake | 久保田 純米大吟醸

Now, the black-label Kubota Junmai Daiginjo is one of the newest lines introduced in 2017 as part of Asahi Shuzo’s efforts to present a “modern Kubota.” 

This is what the brewery calls a contemporary Tanrei Karakuchi style that's specially crafted to produce expressive aromas, going beyond the signature crispness of its taste. It is made with Niigata produced Gohyakumangoku rice that's polished to 50% for both koji and the rice mash.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Colourless

Aroma: Aromatic and fresh, really expressive. It opens with clean, clear notes of white florals alongside distinct, pure fruit scents of pears, melons and bananas. There’s a noticeable, creamy vanilla aroma that persists throughout.

Taste: Characteristically crisp and refreshing but immediately reveals pronounced sweetness. In fact it is definitely the sweetest and fruitiest of the Kubota lineup. Crystalline notes of melons, pear and white florals persist and linger, along with a moderate dryness underneath, and a rice-derived sweetness slowly emerges over time.

Finish: Clean, dry and grainy, with lingering pear sweetness and creamy vanilla notes. Toward the end, a subtle character reminiscent of barley porridge appears, along with a gentle lactic milk note.

My Thoughts

I see this as a modern interpretation of the Kubota style- sweeter, more aromatic and more luscious, yet still quite refined. This is clearly the sweetest and fruitiest among the Kubota lineup, although not necessarily the most complex. Compared to Kubota Manjyu, which offers more restrained sweetness, layers of nuttiness, umami, fruit acidity, and subtle spice, this modern Kubota Junmai Daiginjo feels more straightforward and upfront with its floral and fruity sweetness. And while it’s sweet, it's yet still balanced by dryness, making it approachable and easy to enjoy on its own or alongside food. 

This serves as a good introduction for drinkers accustomed to sweeter Junmai Daiginjos, helping them bridge into Niigata’s typically subtle and dry sake profile.

Final Thoughts:

Having tasted through the Kubota lineup, my biggest takeaway is just how thoughtfully balanced each sake is. Toru Hirasawa’s original intention of creating seriously high-quality sakes that remain accessible and approachable has clearly been realised. Unlike some premium sakes that become frustratingly scarce, Kubota captures that same vibe but remains accessible to consumers, whether it's the rich and expressive Manjyu, the subtle precision of Senshin, the robust Daiginjo Genshu, or the sweeter, modern black-label Junmai Daiginjo.

For those interested in exploring these sakes further, particularly for trade purposes, Elaine Chee from Criadera Concepts is the person who can definitely help you out.

@CharsiuCharlie