Ilegal Mezcal weaves a captivating tale of renegade brilliance and audacious campaigns - a real masterclass at storytelling. But does the liquid inside the bottle match the allure of its story? Let's find out.

It's a brisk morning at 7 a.m. in a bustling flea market in Oaxaca, Mexico, where locals come to shop for fresh produce, hand-crafted trinkets, and the occasional oddity. Our protagonist, John Rexer was weaving through the market stalls, on a quest for duffle bags. His mission? To transport 60 bottles of mezcal under a bus across the border to Guatemala, where he ran a bar. His friend, Lucas, was tagging along for this adventure and helped to buy some cheap shirts to cushion the bottles. Among the clothes hanging for sale at the market, an unusual find caught their eye: a Roman Catholic priest's garb.

With a mischievous glint in his eye, Lucas persuaded Rexer to buy it, suggesting a rather unorthodox plan: John should disguise himself as a priest during their border crossing. The more John thought about it, the more it seemed like a good idea. If questioned by border patrol, John could just smile and give a benign explanation, "Regalos para mis amigos y libros para los niños." (Gifts for my friends and books for the children.) Surely the border patrol wouldn’t make trouble for a Catholic priest.

The exit from Mexico went smoothly, and spirits (no pun intended) were high. But John was stopped at the Guatemalan border, probably because he was weighed down by his many duffle bags.

A stern immigration officer inquired what was in those duffle bags. John repeated his rehearsed line about gifts and books. The officer gave the heart-dropping command to open all his bags. But no issue, thought John, the bags would have been covered with old clothing and books on top. He unzipped several bags.

To everyone’s horror, the bags did not contain children's books or gifts, but a collection of  “incredibly hardcore” adult magazines, courtesy of Lucas' impromptu shopping spree in Mexico. The surprise was palpable, the tension thicker than the smokiest mezcal. John’s legs wobbled; sweat trickled down his spine. What is this?, the official asked, an eyebrow arched skyward. John, grasping for composure, clung to his rehearsed lines, "Regalos para mis amigos y libros para los niños…" as he began to realise the absurdity of this explanation. The border official stared at John for what felt like an eternity. Then, he said very slowly "Está bien, Padre. Pásale, pásale." (This is okay, Father, you may enter.)

And that, dear readers, is the thrilling adventure of how mezcal apparently made its way from Mexico to Guatemala, laying the foundation for what we now know as Ilegal Mezcal.

The name "Ilegal" harks back to John Rexer’s audacious days of smuggling mezcal from Mexico into Guatemala. Few mezcals were certified for export, but the American wanted some mezcal to stock his bar in Guatamala. His solution was to illegally smuggle the spirit across borders.

However, dig deeper, and the brand’s name transcends mere smuggling escapades. 'Ilegal' echoes the human stories from Oaxaca. The land from where this spirit hails is rife with tales of ambition and dreams. Many of the Oaxacan who make the mezcal John bottles have family members cross borders, searching for brighter horizons. Some palenqueros (distillers) themselves have lived in the States, undocumented, before returning to their homeland. "Ilegal", then, isn't just a nod to John Rexer’s smuggling escapades, but a tribute to people chasing their dreams, no matter the legal boundaries.

By 2006, many mezcals became certified for export, and John now runs a fully legal operation, and is also exported to the United States. The brand works with mezcaleros Armando and Alvaro Hernandez, Mezican-American brothers who returned home to re-open their family’s distillery Palenque Mal De Amore. The operation is run by over a dozen Oaxacan households in the community working together to produce mezcal.

But while the brand has gone legitimate, the stories, the adventures, and the sheer audacity of its origin remain at its heart.

Flash forward to the 2016 U.S. election cycle, and we see Ilegal Mezcal continue its renegade spirit, in a campaign that merged the Oaxacan tradition of street art and political defiance that splashed across headlines.

While most brands tiptoed around politics, Ilegal Mezcal’s "Donald Eres Un Pendejo" (Donald, You're an Asshole) campaign took to the streets. Wild street posters and stencils bearing the provocative phrase began popping up overnight, transforming the urban canvases of New York, Miami, and Los Angeles. It was guerrilla marketing with a fiery edge.

Images from the campaign were even projected onto buildings on key dates. Think the Rockefeller Center on the very day Trump played host to Saturday Night Live, and the facade of the New York City Hall during the Democratic National Convention in Philadelphia. These daring displays also lit up the night across from the CNN building in Columbus Circle and the vibrant Union Square in New York.

The campaign aimed to unify those opposed to Trump's more contentious remarks, giving a voice to a community dismayed by xenophobia, all while channelling the spirit of rebellion of Ilegal Mezcal.

With Ilegal’s captivating brand story out of the way, let’s have a closer look at the spirit. Last month, I headed down to Chimichanga Little India. I was recommended to taste their premium agave spirit flight which included this Ilegal Reposado.

Chimichanga's Little India outlet has a rather accessible menu of tequila or mezcal flights at a very affordable price. It's well worth looking into this if you've been exploring agave spirits.

All Ilegal Mezcal expressions are made with Espadin agave at Palenque Mal De Amore (which also produces mezcals under its own label). 3 core expressions are available – the Joven (unaged), Reposado (aged 6 months) and Añejo (aged 13 months). The aged expressions were matured in a combination of new and used American oak, medium char barrels.

It bears noting that Mezcals are traditionally drunk as unaged spirit. Some purist producers believe that mezcals should not be barrel-aged because the oak may overshadow the delicate nuances of the agave, or mellow the smoky or earthiness of mezcals imparted by pit-roasting of agave.

Yet other producers, such as Mal De Amore (which works with Ilegal), see barrel-aging as an opportunity for product innovation, and to ride on the surge in popularity of aged spirits like whisky. Ilegal’s aged expressions tend to appeal well to whisk(e)y drinkers, particularly those who are relatively new to sipping mezcals, who prefer a spirit with a more mellow, restrained smokiness.

Let’s give this a taste.

Ilegal Mezcal Reposado, 40% ABV – Review

Colour: Very pale yellow.

Nose: Fresh and clean, there's a distinct brightness that hits you right off the bat, something I quite enjoy. The honeyed winter melon tea (冬瓜茶) stands out, with a gentle undertone of lightly poached pears. The experience is smooth without any trace of pepperiness or spice, and there's a subtle hint of aromatic ash that lingers.

Palate: The first thing you notice is its light texture. It's clean, with a mild sweetness that plays well with the equally mild spice. As it rolls on the tongue, you get traces of vanilla and floral notes reminiscent of light chrysanthemum tea. Butterscotch and poached pears make an appearance too. The smokiness is there, but it's muted, really muted.

Finish: This one wraps up pretty quickly. It leaves a very mild dry oakiness, aromatic wood, and hints of ground espresso behind. As it settles, there's a gradual build-up of pepperiness and spices that become more pronounced, especially at the tip of the tongue.

My Thoughts: 

🤔 A middle-of-the-road mezcal that appeals well to most whisky drinkers, though it does make a mezcal lover ponder.

Let’s just start with what I really enjoy: I appreciate the brightness and oiliness it brings. There's a layered elegance to its aroma, and the delicate smokiness is something I've come to enjoy.

But here's the catch - it feels like Ilegal is playing it too safe. The oak has taken the edge off its smokiness, making it more of a gateway mezcal for beginners or those who aren’t fans of heavy smokiness. For me, it sits on the fence. I love a good smoky mezcal, and while this one's lack of strong smokiness isn't a deal-breaker, it does make me ponder.

The heat in the aftertaste was unexpected, especially given its delicate nose, palate, and its 40% ABV. It almost feels like you're sipping on a 50% whisky. Surprising, right? So this is decent on the nose and palate, but it could be better on the finish. While it may not be the most mind-blowing mezcal I've had, it is a good go-to when I’m on the fence about what to drink.

@CharsiuCharlie