His & Her Reviews: Appleton Estate 12 Rare Casks Jamaican Rum

After some previous random forays into rum, I consulted several Instagram people (h/t @bourbonary) and the rum primer @how2drink made a few months ago in an effort to take a more educated approach to rum. Based on that, combined with NC ABC’s minimalist approach to premium rum limiting my selection, led to this bottle before you. Compared to my previous dabbling with Flor de Caña and Havana Club, I can say with confidence this provides the experience most similar to bourbon of any rum I’ve yet tried.

Briefly, Jamaican rum is born out of the English tradition: molasses is the base of the mash bill, distillation is by copper pot still. This is contrasted to agricole rhum/French tradition rhum, which uses pressed sugarcane juice as the base of the mash and is most often distilled with Coffey or column stills. Loosely, you can count on English-based rums being heavier, denser, and funkier compared to agricole and Barbancourt rhums, which trend towards grassier, floral, and shinier flavors. Jamaican rums are in particular noted for a hallmark funk that is most often described as “a barrel full of overripe bananas.”

Nose: Hot caramel sauce bubbling in a copper pot, brown sugar toasting on bread in the oven. It’s rich and decidedly brunch-oriented.

Palate: Imagine the booziest bananas fosters you’ve ever had, and you’re there. Bananas fried in brown sugar arrives first, followed by salted caramel and a slightly metallic molasses. There’s an oaky twang late but before it really emerges, it cedes center stage to the classic banana funk as you swallow. There’s a lushness here that belies the 86 proof.

Finish: Long for a rum, at least of the few I’ve tried. Then again, Appleton Estate 12 is nearly twice as old as my previous high watermark rum. The Jamaican funk I’ve been told about bursts through in strength, with overripe bananas and sugared oak blasting everything that came before it. Some heavy, dark molasses creeps back in as the finish lingers.

Summary: This honestly reminds me of Weller SR by way of certain Makers Mark Cask Strength batches. Although I will say there’s a heft and power here I’ve ever found in Weller SR. It’s also a terminal sugar addict having dessert and brunch at the same time, dragging you along straight into a diabetic coma. That all said, if you’re a serious bourbon fan, especially if you’re a wheated bourbon fan, there is a ton going on in Appleton 12 that will serve as happy, diplomatic welcome to rum exploration. I’ve seen this going for $35-$40 in NC, and this is far better than many ho hum bourbons that live in that price range.

Image courtesy of Jon who also writes on Low Class & High Proof.

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