Whisky as with many things comes in waves - there are decades when the spirit is in vogue, and then there are quieter decades where it almost feels like distilleries do a Han Solo, frozen in carbonite, and nothing really happens.

Each wave while broadly possessing of the same boom-bust characteristics of sharply increased output, variations, y'know the sort of marketing magick, only to precede a sharp drop off where there is virtually no interest, and superb bottles become incredibly accessible. It isn't pessimism, it's just the nature of things - when there is interest, producers respond; when there is no interest, producers react in suite. Yet, the fact that we have great longstanding brands today tells us that it is ultimately a game of survival of the fittest - not necessarily the tastiest, I should caveat. It just depends what "fittest" entails.

How 'bout them apples? Normany is home to some of the best apple orchards which goes into their apple brandy, Calvados. (Image Source: Maison)

Yet, this wave appears a little special - the popularity of whiskies have inspired many other spirit and alcoholic beverage makers to dip their toes into making their own whiskies. We haven't quite seen this feature in previous waves.

But as with everything these days, people have mixed feelings about it.

Some think more positively, that the crux of making alcohol no matter the type of alcohol is essentially the same - fermentation across the board, and for spirits the added step of distillation; and then for the most part the decision of whether to age the alcohol or not. You can vary the ingredients and the steps, but it's pretty much the same game. And so if you're already in the business of making some sort of alcohol, it isn't a big leap to start making whiskies. Which for the most part, these optimists believe that they can't land too far off - it's still going to be better than whatever someone who has no experience with alcohol whatsoever could get up to.

The Camut family's Calvados stills remain traditionally woodfired. (Image Source: Charles Neal Selections)

Whiskymaking from a Calvados lens - whether you approve or otherwise, is sure to bring something unique to the table. And that's what we're here for. (Image Source: Charles Neal Selections) 

A smaller set of cynics remain quite the purists at heart - they think that whiskies should be left to those who know and have experience making whiskies. They find that anyone else coming into the game is simply hopping on the dollar-plastered bandwagon. Adding bells and whistles that simply don't need to be there, selling overpriced young whiskies, leveraging off their legacy - one that these cynics find irrelevant at least when it comes to whiskymaking. A 100-year history making Shochu? Great, if you're making Shochu. It's still a grand 0-year history making whisky as far as these skeptics are concerned.

I personally think it's great that these producers are stepping forward to try their hand at making whiskies - hey, more variation and styles for me, as far as I'm concerned! Heck, I'm even all for those with no experience whatsoever making whiskies - ultimately I get the right of refusal in whether I'd partake in their creations. Better to get the opportunity to say "no" than to be deprived of the choice, in my books.

Regardless their intentions, I lean closer to the optimists in believing that there are some transferrable skills when it comes to alcohol-making irrespective of specific categories. Further to that, I'm even inclined to say that they've brought some innovation to the centuries old game. Their use of stills designed for brandy or what-have-you, the aging in casks from other type of alcohol, that's all wildly fascinating to me. It offers up something new, finally. Take me where my palate has never gone before!

Which lands us to today's curiosity of choice - a French Single Malt from Emmanuel Camut Distillerie; the same Camut that is the legendary Calvados producer out in Normandy.

Some background, Emmanuel Camut is the grandson of Adrien Camut, whose famed Calvados' are named after, Calvados being a type of apple (or pear) brandy that specifically is made in Normandy, France.

The Camut family has been making Calvados for close to 200 years and is now run by founder Adrien Camut's three grandsons. (Image Source: Charles Neal Selections)

The Camut family has been producing Calvados in Pays d'Auge, Normandy, for close to 200 years, and is currently operated by Adrien Camut's three grandsons. They grow and use 25 varieties of apples on their 45-hectare estate, in particular historic varieties native to the region (which currently has over 800 varieties of apples harvested). Their grandfather, Adrien Camut made his claim to fame by devising the family's distillation methods using different wood-fired pot stills. There's of course alot more that they'll eagerly tell you about how they traditionally go about making their well-known Calvados, but this is a whisky review - albeit from a Calvados-maker. 

In any case, Emmanuel Camut has been looking to grow beyond the legacy of his grandfather. This has taken him to crafting his own vinegar, fortified brandy and of course, single malt whisky.

This bottling is the first single cask (and might even be the inaugural bottling) from Emmanuel Camut, and was bottled for Singapore's The Auld Alliance and online spirits retailer Colheitas. 

Back label reads:

"This whiskey was distilled over a wood fire in Adrien Camut's patented stills at the Domaine de Semainville.

For the first time, in 2018, 11 casks of pure malt whiskey were obtained and then aged in apple balsamic barrels in the distillery's cellars."

I typed out the back label in Google Translate to get it from French to English, because I'm high-brow that way. You drink Calvados, I sip whisky from your Calvados-maker. 

Let's go.

Emmanuel Camut Distillerie Single Malt Cask 001, 50% ABV, bottled for Colheitas and The Auld Alliance - Review

Color: Reddish Copper

Aroma: Aromatic, refined, quite unique. The aromas while gentle, have a mellow homely quality to them. It is sweet as in that of rich, ripe, cooked fruits -sour plums, sultanas, figs, raisins, pear concentrate, raisin bread dough. There's an oily viscosity to its aromas that is almost chewy. The sweetness is juxtaposed with a more tart sourness of balsamic vinegar. How interesting!

It should be noted, there's an utter absence of harshness, with more on apple juice, green apples, cinnamon rolls, icing sugar, bread dough. A interesting combination of orchard fruit juice, light acidity, dark soy sauce, sweet and sour pork sauce. The aromas interweave, taking turns humming sweet and sour notes.

Taste: Not quite as sweet as you might expect. Calvados, green pears, the acidity is more apparent here. Then it evolves into something more salty, plums, all whilst packing good warmth. More on oaky notes, cane juice and brown sugar, with a light touch of honey stirred in. Lighter to medium bodied, but with a slight oiliness, perhaps walnut oil. Where the aroma was sweet and sour, the palate was more sweet and salty.

Finish: Short, yet the warmth lingers. A combination of apple, acidity, oak, and light umami soy sauce closes it out.

My Thoughts

Totally unique and with a great deal of complexity - this tends towards the more savory and umami side of the taste profile, rather than your usual run-of-the-mill sweet honey and spice notes. It's quite fruity as well and lends itself well to the Asian palate.

While the aromas were highly complex, the body was a little thin, which might be partly the stills used and just simply Camut's distillation methods. The notes on the palate show lots of potential but is probably where the youth shows. With some more age and time in the barrel, I could see the notes strengthening, becoming more pronounced, and integrating itself more roundly. Although I am very surprised that it packed no harshness whatsoever. A great first effort, in my books!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot