Independent bottlers are the backstage artisans of the fine spirits world, curating a nice range of quality spirits thought to appeal to a more discerning audience of spirits enthusiasts.

These parties work in harmony with distilleries, selecting casks of new-make spirit (unaged whisky or rum) and oversee their maturation in cask until they deem them ready for bottling. 

To whisky lovers, one big draw (and potentially downside) to the stuff bottled by independent bottlers is that they are not beholden to brand guidelines or the distillery’s signature characteristics. You see, whisky-making is not a precise art. Sometimes, distilleries end up with batches with unusual flavours that do not align with the typical profile of the distillery’s main line of single malts. Independent bottlers tend to be happy to take over these casks from the distilleries. This means that independent bottlers are able to bring us more unusual styles of whiskies that do not follow what we would conventionally expect from the distilleries that produce them.

Old independent bottlers naturally become archivists of the fine spirits world. The oldest and most respected independent bottling companies the likes of Gordon & MacPhail have long-standing relationships with distilleries that could span over a hundred years. After operating for several generations, they develop an impressive inventory of whisky – often releasing older single malts than the distilleries themselves. One such bottling is a rare and incredibly old 65-year-old Glen Grant from Gordon & MacPhail which I had the opportunity to taste at La Maison du Whisky Singapore.

Amongst the quieter brands single malts today, Glen Grant Distillery has an interesting history. Established in 1839, the distillery is the only Scotch distillery to retain the name of its original founders, John and James Grant.

For those well-familiar with Highland Scotch, knowing Glen Grant’s production offers an interesting perspective into the evolution of flavour in Scotch as we know it today. The distillery was the first to use long-necked pot stills and water-cooled purifiers in the distillation process. The tall and slender stills allow for greater contact between the alcohol vapours and copper, which leads to a more refined spirit. The stills along with the purifiers, an innovation introduced by James Grant, contribute to the moderately light and fruitier style of whisky that is now synonymous with Highland Scotch and the Speyside sub-region.

Glen Grant was also one of the first to bottle their whisky as single malt at a time when blended Scotch dominated the market, even in premium lines of whiskies. In the late 1800s, the distillery began bottling its own single malts and even developing a global export market. This forward-thinking approach allowed Glen Grant to carve out a unique niche, and a following beyond the shores of the UK.

Since Glen Grant had been introduced to the Italian market by importer Armando Giovinetti in the 1960s, Glen Grant has been the country's favourite Scotch single malt. This love affair with Italian whisky enthusiasts ultimately led to the distillery's acquisition by the Campari Group in 2006, a fitting testament to the Italian appeal of Glen Grant's Scotch.

Let’s turn to the bottle we have on hand. This rare bottle of 65-Year-Old Glen Grant had been laid down as a cask in 1956, and bottled by Gordon & MacPhail for high-end spirits distributor La Maison du Whisky on 15^thDecember 2021.

The age and vintage of the bottling are fitting. This bottling commemorates La Maison du Whisky’s 65^thAnniversary since it began operating in Paris in 1956. Being an independently bottled release from G&M, it appears that this bottling is older than any other original bottling releases from Glen Grant Distillery itself. The oldest original bottling released by Glen Grant itself was a 60-year-old single malt.

The 65-year-old bottle we have today had been matured in a first-fill sherry butt, bottled at hefty cask strength of 55.4% ABV. 180 bottles are available. Coincidentally, 2021 marks 15 years of LMDW being in Singapore, and this bottle also commemorates this anniversary.

Let’s give this a taste!

Glen Grant 1956, Gordon MacPhail Connoisseurs Choice, 65 Years Old, 55.4% ABV – Review

Appearance: Deep, mahogany hue with an amber glow.

Nose: Clean and fresh, yet boasts an intricate richness with dominant sweet sherried notes.

Opens with a slightly honeyed and herbaceous quality, accompanied by mellow lemongrass and a subtle hint of tobacco. Develops to a sweet mintiness that reminds me of Hacks brand medicated mint cough dropsintermingling with aniseed, liquorice, new leather accents, then a tantalising aroma of bright tangy red fruits emerges: cherries and raspberries. A whisper of light root beer or sarsaparilla rounds off the nose.

Adding some water makes this even more delightful. Complexity unravels with darker undertones of chocolate, cinnamon, and a touch of dry walnut. Delicate marzipan and candied ginger are interwoven with the scents of moist fruitcake, while a very faint wisp of charred wood (or perhaps black tea actually) and a hint of rain forest earthiness add an unusual depth and intrigue.

Palate: Soft and oily texture, with rich flavours and an elegant structure.

Don’t be intimidated by its age because this is so very accessible, friendly, and drinkable. An initial gentle burst of Hacks candy that slowly grows in intensity. The palate gradually opens up into semi-sweet jammy notes with a slight tartness – think raspberry compote and candied orange peel – accompanied by a rich sticky date pudding.

More depth and gentle tannins open 2 or 3 seconds in. Now there’s fragrant tobacco, liquorice, and hints of oakiness emerging, along with a trace of bitter espresso. Delicate lemongrass notes return to the palate, interlaced with the distinct profile of an aged rhum agricole from Martinique. A gentle layer of dried fruits, such as raisins and figs, that are typical of a sherry cask matured Scotch, while a subtle hint of nutmeg and clove adds warmth and spice to the mix.

Delicate notes of black tea and a touch of sandalwood provide an elegant backdrop, with the distant memory of antique leather-bound books evoking the time I snuck into an old library in Cambridge.

Finish: The finish is fragrant and long, with mild dryness and oakiness complemented by soothing tobacco tones. Trailing Oolong tea notes linger in the background, while a pleasant light chlorinated minerality, reminiscent of a private swimming pool, ties everything together.

My Thoughts

This well-exceeded my expectations. At 65-year-old I honestly pictured an austere, over-oaked or overly tannic monstrosity from the 1950s. Just think about how narrow-minded some of our septuagenarian relatives are! Okay just kidding!

First of all, this is so fresh-tasting and well-aged, with bright and clean notes of red fruits that then descend into an elegant depth of herbs and menthol and a trailing tobacco fragrance. This is also incredibly flavourful at cask strength and yet doesn’t zap or bite the palate one bit with alcohol or tannins.

✈️🗿⛺️🏝

The level of complexity and pleasantly surprising notes from in unexpected places just make for a really remarkable, memorable experience. This isn’t a glass of whisky. This is a whole travel itinerary.

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If you'd like to try it for yourself, this is available by the dram at La Maison du Whisky's bar in Singapore. Bottles are also still available for purchase from LMDW Singapore's online store here at the really auspicious price of S$8,888.00 (Ships in Singapore). This expression appears to be out of stock on LMDW's Parisian online store.   

Read more reviews: Whisky | Craft Beer | Rum | Gin | Sake | Tequila | Baijiu | Liqueurs & Others

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@CharsiuCharlie