This was part of a "limited" release of 10,800 bottles by Hazelburn, Springbank's triple-distilled unpeated expression. Hazelburn 10 is my favourite of the three 46% entry OBs by Springbank (the others being SB 10, Longrow NAS), so I have been meaning to try it at cask strength. The opportunity presented itself at a local (socially-distanced) whisky festival. This was aged in a Barolo cask. Other reviews on this sub indicate this to be pretty polarising, but I really enjoyed it.

Distillery: Hazelburn

Region: Campbeltown

Price: ~35USD/50ml

Cask Type: Ex-Barolo

ABV: 57.9%

Chill-filtered: No

Color: 0.4, jonquil/ripe corn.

Rested for ~15 minutes, before drunk neat in a glencairn.

Nose: Even alongside whiskies that already nose very well, this stands out. Cherry blossom tea, rose syrup, apricot, cream, Springbank malt funk (like gardening gravel, without the industrial fumes), then warm, buttery, sugar-dusted, airy puff pastry when you leave it in air (think kouign-amman). Water adds cinnamon but at the expense of dulling the florals.

Palate: Nice texture neat, even better with water. Chocolate pudding, fruit gums, musky jackfruit, apricot, mango yoghurt, sweet peach fruit vinegar. Water intensifies the fruity sweetness paradoxically, and adds dense chewy sweet rye bread, together with soft (as opposed to astringent) grape tannins and fresh blueberries. That's Barolo for you.

Finish: Long with a deep lingering sweetness down your throat. Konnyaku jelly, kiwi, vanilla crepe cake, more mango. Water yields more maltiness, green apple, watermelon, creme caramel, and just a slight hint of something... like chicken (that's Springbank malt for you).

Conclusion: This takes everything I liked about the 10yo core expression, brings it to cask strength richness and complexity while adding a layer of florality that is very welcome. Water seems to accentuate the Barolo influence, yet dulls the distinctive florals, which leaves me torn. Nonetheless, this Hazelburn takes to water excellently, like the 10yo, leaving you with much room to experiment.

Overall, I have had some magnificent drams this year, like the Glenallachie 25yo Cadenhead 175th anniversary and the SV ex-Karuizawa Ballechin 12yo (gimmicky but great when one looks past it) - but this edges even them. I have always been a big fan for Hazelburn because Springbank's triple distillation seems to give great clarity of flavour without compromising on depth or richness IME. While the malt is unpeated, there is certainly the vaguest hint of Springbank's character. I have (finally) found a wholesale source for relatively cheap bottles of Hazelburn 10 locally to get my fix, but I don't think the Barolo will be as easy to come by at a sane price. It's a shame because this is such a fun, fresh, fruity, tropical dram with several pleasant twists. Outstanding. The only thing keeping it from an even higher score is the florals dulling with water. Perhaps it would also be nice to find the florals on the palate or finish too, but that might just detract from what is already splendid.

If it were named by the SMWS: High Tea Along The Grapevine

Score: 94

Scotch Review #27, Whiskey Network Review #29

H.Y.