A year ago - that's 2022 - the jury was still out on which of the new crop of Japanese whisky distillers was the frontrunner of this new wave. Everyone had their bets on who was going to be the next star - obviously ignited by the possibility of spotting the next Chichibu - and as they staked their claims, folks were also scurrying away early releases from the distillery of their choice. Much as a squirrel would with its beloved acorns.
Some had feared that their favourite distillers would reach untenable prices in the future and they would no longer be able to enjoy the delicious nectar, others gleamed with the hope that they might strike the next big gold mine.
Kanosuke Distillery has pulled up to become the frontrunner, at least for now.
And as 2023 rolled around, it seemed to solidify one particular horse - now things might change, nothing is set in stone - but somehow, Kagoshima's Kanosuke had somehow seemed to concretise everyone's affirmation.
It's almost as if, in such a rare instance, everyone for once agreed that Kanosuke was doing a spectacular job and was incredibly promising.
Could it have been the founder Yoshitsugu's family history being in the alcohol business, having pioneered barrel aged shochu, or perhaps the sheer amount of investment that the distillery was able to muster to play the game at the highest level, or maybe the perfect location had been selected - could just be that the whisky was damn good.
I think it's alittle bit of all of those, but with a heavier emphasis on the last - ultimately the proof is in the pudding, people have to like the juice that comes out from the squeeze.
Founder Yoshitsugu is bringing the Komasa family's shochu business into a new generation.
Many new distillers not just in Japan but all around the world have gotten in the whisky business because of the sheer popularity of the category, and many of whom bring about with them big supporting factors in their bid, yet it remains to be seen who will not just stay in the game, but win at it.
Kanosuke seems to be doing well now, and I personally am a huge fan, but I do hope that it's early success doesn't trip it up - it's a marathon, not a sprint, after all.
And so with three official limited edition releases under its belt, a fast ballooning set of private buyer bottlings seeing the light of day, Kanosuke is finally releasing in 2023 what seems to be their first core Japanese single malt expression - the Kanosuke Single Malt.
This expression created to really showcase the distillery's "Mellow Land, Mellow Whisky" ethos and to bring out that "Kanosuke feel", was produced using a mix of peated and non-peated malt, and used all three of Kanosuke's pot stills (each with different configurations), and was primarily matured in American White Oak casks.
Let's go!
Kanosuke Single Malt, 48% ABV - Review
Tasting Notes
Color: Amber
Aroma: Gorgeous uplifting notes of caramel custard, poached apples, cinnamon - all those signature Kanosuke aromas pour forth. More on poached pears, alittle bit of grapefruit zest and more citrus. This evolves into more of a lemon tea aroma - a combination of that citrus and notes of black tea. It’s slightly citric with a light bitterness and also tannins, but also rich and bright. Over time there’s more of that estery just ripe yellow banana notes too.
Taste: More on quince jam - slightly musky but with a citrusy sweetness. Apple pie filling, and poached apples. There’s a good dusting of cinnamon and nutmeg. More on a herbal side - light touches of Pei Pa Koa, poached ginger reminiscent of tangyuan broth (a glutinous rice dumpling dessert served during the Lantern Festival in Asia). It’s sweet, slightly herbal and spicy, with a rich honeyed base note.
I must say that there is a somewhat biting sharpness that nips at the tongue for a second, but definitely noticeable.
Finish: More bittersweet with notes of black tea tannins, citrusy lemon tea, Gula Melaka palm sugar and honey. Medium length finish.
My Thoughts
My Rating: 🎼
A benchmark Kanosuke!
Flavour-wise this is everything we know and love Kanosuke to be - those lemon tea notes, caramel custard, poached apples, cinnamon, grapefruit zest. It’s all there - and what’s better, it’s almost like Kanosuke refined and zoned in on it to make sure you’re getting precisely what their signature profile is. This is the more benchmark Kanosuke I’ve had to date - it’s right bang at the core of every Kanosuke I’ve tried that makes use of its mix of casks (the Sherry cask Kanosuke’s are a major exception) with no frills or distractions.
That said, the aromas while incredibly aromatic, I know for certainty could be richer and with more depth, while the palate too could also use more heft, richness and depth - and what is with that nipping bite on the tongue?? - the same goes for the finish. That’s at least where this falls short of the best of Kanosuke.
The upside? This is a fraction of the price of those Kanosuke’s, it’s readily available as a core expression, and gives you the more distinctive, benchmark Kanosuke experience.
So really, an incredible value for money expression that I think everyone curious about Kanosuke should aspire to try first (before their wallet and effort expended takes a massive beating).
Classic stuff.
Kanpai!
@111hotpot