"Korea also makes whisky"

That's what the handwritten text reads on the label [just below the pot still illustration], if translated from Korean. Above, in vertical horizontal text, is the name Kim Chang Soo, the man who wrote the line above.

There's a growing desire across the world to prove that whisky can be made locally. As someone who actively tries the lesser known whiskies with a more unique provenance, it is the one commonality I often find. Across the world as more people enjoy whisky, some of whom have begun to ask "Why can't we make our own whisky". This has led to an ever-growing category of world whiskies - Australia, Taiwan, India, Korea; you pretty much hear the same thing. 

Gimpo, in the northern region of South Korea. Not where you'd expect to find whisky. Yet, that defiance is what we came for. (Image Source: ShortwaveDXer)

There's a certain hard-headed stubbornness; a refusal to be told "no", that the conditions and basic materials found locally can work; will work. It's something I can appreciate, that grittiness. For me, that's enough reason to pony up and pay much more for a 1 year old whisky than I would a solid 15-year old Scotch.

Today, I'm fortunate enough to try a whisky made by Korea's whisky hero.  

Kim’s claim to fame was having taken all his money, having bought himself ticket to Scotland, armed with a shoddy bicycle, a tent and a whole lot of heart, to meet with all 102 existing Scotch distilleries…only to be rejected by every one of them.

There's even pictures to substantiate his hero's journey. (Image Source: ahopsi)

A combination of Scotch distilleries having been scooped up into the stables of big corporates, increased automation, as well as Kim not possessing a visa nor was he particularly conversant in English, was to blame.

Yet, fate didn’t have it all that bad for my guy. Kim had a chance encounter with an employee from none other than Chichibu Distillery, which at the time was still fairly young. This bagged Kim a 10-day instructional which motivated him to believe he could too start his own distillery in Korea, a country that at the time had no distilleries of its own. This was 2015.

Fast forward to 2022 and Kim has managed to start his own one-man operated outfit. He works on it all day with pot stills he’s installed himself, and then at night he’s on Youtube vlogging his life as an aspiring whiskymaker. Visitors to his one-man operated distillery have commented on how the distillery's shelves are lined with cup noodles, an interesting choice of interior decor for sure. "I eat ramen almost every day" says Kim, who pours his efforts into his passion. 

Whether it was intended or otherwise, his sheer dedication and passion has not been lost on his growing legion of fans. 

When his first bottling (the one I'm about to review) finally hit shelves and bars - fans queued for up to 16 hours to get a bottle at dawn, with the remaining outturn of 336 cask strength bottles of the single Sherry cask whisky, aged for 1 year, 1 month and 20 days (which yes, does not qualify in Scotch or Japanese regulations as being "whisky", but remember we're in Korea), sold out in just 10 days. 

Kim's got no time to pay any attention to his critics, the one-man operation doesn't even have time for anything more than instant ramen. (Image Source: Hani)

Certainly, the man has his critics, who’ve chastised everything from his label, which features a stylised depiction of Kim himself, to the whisky’s too young age, and then moving on to his small outfit of a distillery, and even his lack of formal whiskymaking training.

Yet, with his pony tail and T-shirt and track pants, he’s a self-possessed man more concerned with how his whisky tastes than how he looks, and even less so what his critics think. He hasn't even had time to give his whisky a name - for now it's just Whisky 01. He’s a man on a mission, and we’re just here for the ride. 

Kimchangsoo [Kim Chang Soo or 김창수 위스키] Korean Single Malt 01, 54.1% ABV, Heavily Peated Malt, 2021/2022 - Review 

Color: Reddish Gold 

Aroma: Fresh, clean, crisp peat, pine cones, spearmint. Yet it is gentle, fragrant super alluring, that sweet light smoke wafting forth. Sweet honey, pancake syrup, very approachable and affable. Yet, at the same time it remains remarkably clean and bright, never cloying. A farm-y quality emerges, top notes of light straw and grassiness, lightly herbaceous, closer to parsley. It's reminiscent of a pine forest in winter time with just a dash of maple syrup.

Taste: Medium bodied, light ash, a spritz of salinity, sea salt, and then a meaty oiliness and fat resembling roast pork belly. Sweeter now, with honey, caster sugar, slightly bitter as is manuka honey. It turns ever slightly more bittersweet, all while retaining a smooth silky texture. The herbaceousness here is vague, mostly fresh herbs, maybe perilla. Evolves into a more gentle umami note of fried honey soy chicken skin.

Finish: Short, crisp. Again a mix of light honey, herbaceous parsley, delicate aromatic soot. Just a touch of saltiness, good lasting warmth. Ending off with umami dried shiitake mushrooms and button mushrooms.

My Thoughts

I enjoyed this greatly, it was a pleasant surprise with how approachable it was with gentle, yet refreshing flavors that married together well - crisp freshness, light aromatic smoke, a dash of salinity, honey, oiliness, herbaceous and umami notes. It packed a whole lot of complexity, which you obviously don't expect from young whiskies. This leans towards the more savory and umami side of things and reminded me constantly of Korean honey soy fried chicken. I was very impressed to say the least - how well the notes came together, the total lack of harshness or offnotes, it's done exceptionally well.

Yet, of course Kim's not getting away that easily - the whisky (I'll give it that) is alot lighter than expected and really isn't the heavily peated malt it says on its label. The flavors while complex and in harmony, are very gentle and needs to be turned up - a tad too delicate and subtle. It'll be very exciting to see this in a couple of years.

Yet, as they say, take the person as they are, not who you think they can become. Would I come back and drink this again? Yes. Would I buy a bottle of this myself? 102% absolutely yes. I really enjoyed it and could see myself coming back to this again and again. It doesn't put a dent in your tastebuds but it is an incredibly excellent daily drinker. Let's hope Kim never stops. I'm a huge believer.

Kanpai!

@111hotpot