If you have been closely following the whisk(e)y, rum scene, you may know that the indie bottlers really have an eye for art. It all begins to make sense when we consider the growing pool of afficionados and collectors of single distillery / single estate spirits. No two batches of rum are quite the same. So, bottlers sometimes find it fitting to commission works from renowned artists that can be fashioned into distinctive, pretty bottle labels (see the Thompson Bros’ striking labels).

Singaporean painter and conceptual artist, Warren Khong, is one such artist with many admirers in the spirits community, and whose works have been used by bottlers in highly collectible bottling series – not least Luca Gargano, the famed boss of Velier SpA.

In 2016, Luca visited Singapore and approached Warren to ask for a series of paintings to be used as rum labels. Warren agreed. This collaboration led to the famous Drop by Drop “Warren Khong” Collection, a 6-bottle series of rums commemorating the legendary Velier’s 70^th anniversary.

The Warren Khong collection excited rum lovers with its vibrant colour palette that speak of the Caribbean heritage of rums, and seemingly random swirls of paint drops that describe the multi-layered and spectacular flavours of the rums.

Another well-known work is Warren’s “Portrait series” which depicts manga-esque portraits of female faces and the describes society’s pursuit of beauty.

One of Warren’s most recent works builds upon this series. In collaboration with Singaporean indie bottler, Malt, Grain and Cane (“MGC”), Warren created a purple iteration, entitled “Saudade - I Only Care About You” (我紫在乎你).

This is a single malt Irish whiskey aged for 18 years and bottled at 50.2% ABV. This distillery is once again undisclosed, although whispers in the community suggest that this is either from Bushmills Distillery, or Cooley Distillery. Those familiar with Irish whiskey history may be interested to know that these two Irish distillers are historically known for a tradition of producing single malts – while other Irish distillers were much more famous for using unmalted barley when the British Crown imposed taxes on malted barley.

I recently had a nice dram of this expression at Swan Song Bar. Let’s get to the tasting notes. 

Saudade Irish Whiskey 2002, 18 Years Old, 50.2% - Review

Colour: Shortbread yellow.

On the nose: Fresh, sweet, clean and friendly. Opens with notes of green apple candy, pineapple candy and bubble gum with a tart citrusy edge that grows.

Several seconds of nosing brings out more fizzy, effervescent notes. We’re looking at sweet green grapes and a sweet sparkling tartness reminiscent of German Riesling wine. The nose grows in richness with some vanilla creaminess eventually showing up – hints of foamed milk, lightly toasted marshmallows and silky Swiss meringue.  

The fresh and fruity aromas are boldly forthcoming, but still with a gentle approachability that makes for easy nosing.

On the palate: Syrupy and rich with an oily velvety texture. The first sip brings forth more fruitiness in bright primary Technicolor. Light pulpy yuzu, warm summer strawberries and Minute Maid Aloe vera-white grape juice. There’s certainly bit of a lively kick – all that fruitiness is wrapped with a gentle layer of prickliness.

With several minutes of airing, the juicy fruity notes are rounded up by an edge of bitterness from pomelo rinds. Eventually turns slightly herbaceous with white tea and honey-sweetened herbal jelly (“龟苓膏”).

Then, a splash of water appears to unlock some creaminess from the oak. Light whipping cream gradually unfolds to cereal milk and then hot vanilla.

The finish has a gentle warmth on the back of the throat which does not overstay its welcome. Mild bittersweet oak cuts through the initial grape sweetness, before fading into faint trail of whipping cream.

My take

Think grape juice with a mild herbal note that cuts through the sweetness.

This Irish single malt is a daily sipper that I’d return to over and over again. Point is that it is distinctive and satisfying, but not too heavy in richness. Much like the timelessness of Pink Floyd or the Beatles – or perhaps even Marcus’ favourite, Teresa Teng – it pairs a bold, distinctive profile with a casual, easy-going structure that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

It probably also makes a good starter whiskey for those new to single malt.

@CharsiuCharlie