Scotch 101 Week: Aging, Proof, and Johnnie Walker 12/Black Label review

Scotland’s climate and the way they build/design their rickhouses means whisky often loses proof as it ages. So “cask strength” at 12-20 years old might only be 100-120 proof, and at 25+ you’re maybe looking at mid-80’s proof. So lower proof points don’t necessarily mean heavily diluted. Additionally, given the preponderance of aging whisky in previously used barrels, flavors tend to layer and merge over time, leading to a rounding off phenomenon.

Compare this to say, bourbon, which ages in new oak and in warmer climates. American whiskies tend to gain proof as water evaporates faster than ethanol in the American South (although not always! — see Dickel, George), and become more dominated by barrel flavors with aging. The bottom line is, like with bourbon, older doesn’t necessarily mean better — it just means different.

Now, let’s drink some whisky.

This is the workhorse Black Label Blended Scotch from Johnnie Walker. It includes 40 grain and malt whiskies, with various sources identifying whisky from Royal Lochnagar, Talisker, Lagavulin, Caol Ila, Clynelish, Cardhu, and Mortlach present in the recipe. I suspect the largest contributions come from Cardhu, Royal Lochnagar, and Caol Ila. All present whisky is at least 12 years old.

Nose: A twinge of light smoke and cigar rolling paper that is overtaken by sweet corn and vanilla cake icing. It’s Monkey Shoulder by way of Crown Royal.

Palate: Light tobacco followed by Coca-Cola, with caramel-covered malt and vanilla right behind. Very faint smoke arrives late. Some malty funk emerges halfway through the pour but doesn’t hang around.

Finish: Caol Ila-flavored earthy peat early, which rapidly fades into caramel creme and sweet grain in a medium-ish length finish. The Islay DNA fights to emerge later in the pour, but it’s shackled by the sweeter grain notes.

Summary: I could drink this like a beer. JW Black, to me, is more reminiscent of a lighter bourbon or a Canadian whisky than any of its component malt whiskies. It absolutely is a friendly approach to Blended Scotch, but whiskey nerds may have encountered more dramatic iced tea.

Image courtesy of Jon who also writes on Low Class & High Proof.

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