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Whisky Reviews

Springbank 12 Cask Strength, Ex-sherry & Ex-bourbon, 54.2% ABV

 

Scotch Review #5: Springbank 12 Cask Strength
 

Distillery: Springbank

Region: Campbeltown

Price: N/A (dram at a bar)

Cask Type: Ex-sherry, Ex-bourbon

ABV: 54.2, should be the 2017 outturn.

Color: 0.7, amber

Nose: Petrol aromatics, black pepper, apple juice, leather but not as much as I expected.

Palate: Relatively light texture, no burn at all; starts with a sensation of gravel and dust before clearing up into savoury, rich pho broth, candied apple, blackcurrant, a hint of sea spray and sweet fish cake.

Finish: Wow. Instant nutmeg and cinnamon hit. LOTS of oatmeal from beginning to end. Peanut crumble. Chewy, moist raspberry and white chocolate cookies. Malt syrup. Reassuring mustiness of a worn-in sweatshirt. Honey lemon juice in spades. Sun-baked grass. Oatmeal is still going on. No burn.

Conclusion: Justifiably the quintessential Campbeltown recommendation to show off both power and refinement. The classic Campbeltown industrial and meaty notes are there, assertive but not in excess. Bright fruits and sweet, rich desserts balance it out. There is also significant depth and complexity throughout. This checks an important priority of mine with whiskey: a metaphorical "dynamic range". Complexity is not just about how many notes can I pick out, there should also be variations in the forwardness and intensity of the notes, overlaying and playing off each other. Whiskies can have very refined notes, but if every note feels similarly intense, or one/a few notes overpower a suite of subliminal notes, I tend to be left uninspired.

The dusty mouthfeel that clears up is something I have never felt before. It works surprisingly well. Yes, it doesn't have the velvety weight of Craigellachie 17 (surprisingly the IB has a less rounded mouthfeel than the 46% OB 17-year old I have a bottle of), but it definitely has decent body. Overall, a potent combination of quality and accessibility (both in terms of acquisition and taste profile for regular pouring). It scores slightly lesser than the Craig 17 (which I gave a 90) because that had an even longer, complex and vibrant finish. The 17 is also a bit more malt and bourbon forward, with some woody smoke like cigars and cardboard box. Surprisingly, I don't get smoke at all with this bottle.

If it were named by the SMWS: Breakfast Next to the Motorbike

Score: 88

Scotch Review #5, Whisky Network Review #6

 

H.Y.