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Whisky Reviews

Springbank Local Barley 10 Year Old, 2022, 51.6% ABV

  

Almost like the laws of gravity, no conversation about Springbank can escape the topic of how it's gotten so inaccessible as of late. The distillery, which is one of really only two in the smallest Scotch-producing region, that is Campbeltown, has in all fairness sought to keep up.

The earlier releases of the modern "Local Barley" series, which is a revival of the legendary series of the same name that featured whiskies made by Springbank in the 1960s, started off in 2016 with a 16 Year Old bottling that saw 9,000 bottles released. Since then the distillery has put out younger releases, mostly between 9-11 year olds, that have also been released more frequently, and with output pumped up to 15,000 bottles released. Trade prices have also largely stayed the same - all a mark of the distillery's rare independence.

  

Springbank remains one of the few family-owned distilleries that takes an incredibly hands-on approach to whiskymaking. It's no surprise that it's added to their popularity. (Image Source: Springbank)

 

Given that the distillery is still family-owned, rather than being held by a larger commercial parent, it's probably in their best interest to protect the distillery's haloed reputation. It's also why they are so sought after all - the family still produces whiskies according to family traditions and remains one of the few distilleries that are so hands-on in their whiskymaking. So all in, props to them for trying to make sure more people are able to get their hands on it and try it. 

In fact, if you recall, the distillery was originally only supposed to put out five Local Barley releases, which has now stretched into its seventh release - again, I think the distillery wants to try their best to get as many people as possible to be able to try it. Now, there isn't even any indication as to how long the series will continue on - that's definitely helped to tamper down collectors' fervour and correspondingly auction prices.

 

Glencraigs Farm has been the distillery's go-to for its Local Barley series. (Image Source: Glencraigs Farm)

 

It's hard to be a collector or auction camper if there's no sense of scarcity. Whereas if there was a real sense that there was only going to be five of these in a set, you can be sure that most of these bottles would never be opened and prices will go ballistic. They already sort of did for awhile until the distillery's new measures.

  

 

So while all these measures have helped, Springbank's are still generally hard to pick up at retail - most still do get snapped up really quickly and hoarded or flipped. Even if you were just a casual drinker, given how lucky you have to be to pick one up at retail prices, you'd think twice about popping your bottle open, lest you can't find another again.

Regardless, I had the good fortune to be invited by a friend to try the Local Barley released in 2022, a 10 Year Old made using Belgravia barley from Glencraigs Farm, which seems to have become the go-to source for Springbank. It was matured in a bourbon cask.

Shout out to my incredibly generous friend who supplied some great bottles for the night as well as the others who brought along their own to the party and the one friend who brought along some *decent*, I kid, amazing croissants.

 

Tasting Note

Color: Sunflower Oil

Aroma: First impressions is that of buttered popcorn - there's a creaminess to it that is reminiscent of both fresh butter and melted butter. Lots of vanilla, almost grain whisky-like. It's a classic Springbank kind of farmhouse profile - an unpasteurised buttercream note, and also that bit of wild grass, hay and daisies. There's fleshy yellow fruits - banana and custard apples, a little bit of tinned peaches too; the esters are present but not too overpowering, still fairly restrained. The usual lemon zest here is alot less tart than usual, as well as the flinty minerality that is something of wet pebbles or gravel. It's all bright, uplifting and quite gentle, albeit still aromatic.

There's a final bit that's quite interesting as well - a sort of machinery, industrial grease scent - think old school mechanical machinery that's just slightly overworked.

Taste: Immediately the creamy and bright texture and profile stands out! Quite astonishing to be honest. Sweet corn syrup, custard, vanilla cream, wildflowers, unpasteurised buttercream, butter cookies - it's sweeter but at the same time floral and has a touch of raw farmhouse mustiness, some call it the funk. Lots of tinned fruits pour forth - peaches and cream, apricots, nectarines, lemon sherbet. Really lovely!

There's an earthiness as well of unhusked barley or grain and a touch of engine grease. Very faint saltwater taffy candy, kombu butter, and again alittle bit of that pebble minerality.

Finish: Medium length but very gentle. More grassiness and unhusked barley, alongside that kombu butter. As it continues to recede, I'm left with unpasteurised buttercream.

  

My Thoughts

No matter how many times I try Bourbon cask-aged Springbank, in whatever form - the core range or the Local Barley series - I never fail to be amazed by just how delightful it is. It's a wonderful combination of having a great creaminess and also a rounded profile of bright florals and fruits, a muskiness and also that touch of minerality. No one does it better than Springbank at this. It's not only so characteristically Springbank but it's also a very good balance across juxtaposing flavors.

What's also remarkable is how if you've tried a vintage Springbank from the 1950's (I reviewed one here), you'll simultaneously notice just how similar and yet different modern Springbanks are. They've found a way to preserve their signature farmhouse musky and yet bright and creamy profile and yet evolve it to take on a more modern interpretation - one that is punchier and with more oomph and is more full, fruit-forward and also incorporates an industrial oiliness. 

My Rating

 🦄

As spectacular and as hard to find as a unicorn. It's another great modern example of that classic Springbank bright and creamy profile, farmhouse funk, buttercream, tinned peaches, light minerality and a touch of industrial grease. It's as enjoyable as it is hard to find one.

Really, amazing stuff. It's just a shame that it's still incredibly difficult to get your hands on and while I think it could justify some of its auction prices, I'm personally just unwilling to line someone's pockets for clicking on a computer mouse faster than I can for a bottle that was just released months ago. If all of that went straight to the distillery, count me in, I'm more than happy to pony up.

Obviously, this bottle is no longer available at retail, which means you're going to have to check it up on auction sites which they do show up regularly - Whisky Auctioneer (International), for instance. If you're hoping to get lucky and pick it up at retail, you can regularly check The Whisky Exchange (International) and Master of Malt (International) - though it is probably easier to spot a unicorn.

 

Kanpai!

 

@111hotpot