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Whisky Reviews

Taste Test of Glen Grant’s New Prestige Malts: Glasshouse 21, 25, 30 Years Old

 

It is one of the quieter achievers in the Scotch whisky world, so you may not know that Glen Grant had played a pivotal role in shaping the taste of Scotch whisky as we know it today. The Speyside distillery also holds a particularly iconic status amongst European and Italian whisky connoisseurs.

Established in 1840 in the town of Rothes of the Speyside region in Scotland, Glen Grant was founded by the Grant brothers, who were prominent men seen as visionaries of their time with a strong pioneering spirit. They understood the importance of scale and logistics to success in the whisky business. This led them to build a large distillery and use their influence to construct a railway line in the remote north of Scotland; a move that ensured the whisky they produced could reach a wider audience. They also introduced electric lighting, not just within the distillery but to the rest of their town of Rothes.

 

Distillery forefather James “The Major” Grant is credited for the signature taste of Glen Grant’s single malt.

 

Taking the reins in the second generation, James "The Major" Grant continued with this pioneering spirit. A true Renaissance man, he was the first person in the Scottish Highlands to own a motorcar. His penchant for exploration also led him to go on voyages to Africa and the Himalayas, from which he would often return with exotic flowers and plants to be cultivated in a Victorian garden on the distillery grounds.

 

Glen Grant's Victorian Garden is a public garden famous for its natural beauty and floras, certainly evocative of Monet's water lilies! (Source: Live Breathe Scotland)

 

Upon inheriting the distillery, he sought to refine Glen Grant's signature flavour profile. His solution? Tall, slender pot stills coupled with unique water-cooling purifiers. This ingenious design increased contact between the alcohol vapours and copper, resulting in a more elegant and refined spirit. These stills, along with the purifiers, laid the foundation for the light and fruity style that now defines Speyside Scotch and is familiar throughout the wider Highland region.

 

At the time they were built, Glen Grant’s pot stills were some of the tallest and most slender ones in Scotland (Source: Adam O’Connell, Master of Malt)

 

Most notably, Glen Grant Distillery was also the first Scotch distillery to bottle its whisky as a “pure malt” whisky – what later became known as “single malt” whisky. Later in the 60s’, Glen Grant carved out a unique niche for itself in Italy. This was both unusual and impressive because it became the country’s favourite whisky at a time when blended whisky brands (think Johnnie Walker or J&B Scotch) dominated the Scotch industry in almost every other market. Perhaps fittingly, Glen Grant is today owned by Italy’s iconic Campari Group.

 

 

In fact, I just had the opportunity to visit Campari Group’s incredibly chic office bar in Singapore for a sneak preview of the prestigious new Glen Grant Glasshouse Collection bottlings.

 

 

The Glen Grant Glasshouse Collection is a trio of whiskies – 21 Years, 25 Years and 30 Years – that mark the end of an era as the final series of whiskies created by Glen Grant’s well-respected Master Distiller Dennis Malcolm. Dennis would be retiring after spending over 60 years dedicated to crafting Scotch at Glen Grant Distillery. He holds the title as Scotland’s longest-serving distiller.

 

Master Distiller Dennis Malcolm.

 

Now, the Glasshouse Collection is named after the beautiful botanical glasshouse that was built by distillery forefather James 'The Major' Grant. It’s unclear to me whether this very glasshouse still stands today. However, Glen Grant Distillery is renowned for its splendid Victorian garden that is open to visitors. The garden boasts a diverse array of botanicals that trace their lineage back to the flora and fauna collected by James during his travels. All three whiskies have been matured in a combination of American oak bourbon barrels and Oloroso Sherry butts and hogsheads within the distillery's traditional stone dunnage warehouses.

 

 

Each whisky in the collection also represents a different time of day, from the first light of dawn to the moonlit night, using the light inside the glasshouse as a metaphor for the character of each expression.

 

Glen Grant Glasshouse 21 Years Old, 46% ABV – Review

 

Nose: Bright, comforting and approachable with honey and vanilla notes mingling with crisp clarified apple juice. A minty freshness and grassiness weaves through, adding a rather nice spring meadow character. Aromatic malted barley, dry cereal and a touch of torched crème brûlée lend a subtle creaminess.

Palate: A lovely, viscous texture coats the tongue. Honeyed sweetness intertwines with bright fruitiness, sweet oak and spices, it’s almost like drinking an unsweetened fruit tea. Juicy peaches and cream dance across the palate before a clean sake-like dryness emerges. Liquorice and Hack’s candy add a very distinctive dimension of lively mintiness.

Finish: Continues with lingering mintiness that refreshes the nose and tongue. Vanilla and barley notes re-emerge, reminiscent of a crisp lager with a refreshing barley aftertaste, followed by a whisper of cocoa powder right at the very end.

 

 

My Thoughts:

The Glen Grant Glasshouse 21 Years Old is a bright, balanced and moderately complex dram. For a 21-year-old, this has the luxurious touch of a 30-year-old with its viscous mouthfeel. Interestingly, I should note that it also seems quite committed to this distinctive profile of mintiness and sweet grain character, which, as you shall see, will make a reappearance in the subsequent expressions. 

Glen Grant Glasshouse 25 Years Old, 46% ABV – Review

 

Nose: The familiar honeyed sweetness deepens, reminiscent of apple pie filling, complemented by some milk chocolate shavings. Creamy notes of fresh banana intertwine with a subtle orange zest and a barley sugar sweetness. There’s also the minty freshness, present in its younger sibling, but here it’s softer, more integrated into an overall more mellow character.

Palate: A similarly thick texture coats the mouth. The palate ushers in a bright, honeyed opening with the gentle sweetness of grain and cereal. Milk chocolate notes return alongside a smoother and more refined aromatic oak spice and a touch of nutmeg. As the dram evolves in the palate, the distinctive mintiness reappears, gradually growing bolder with each passing moment as the whisky warms within the glass.

Finish: Sweetness, honey and spice lingers, along with a fading mintiness and a whisper of cinnamon. Familiar malt biscuit notes emerge, evoking the comforting aroma of breakfast cereal and digestive biscuit. There also seems to be a fleeting hint of smoke.

 

 

My Thoughts:

Very smooth and integrated. This echos many of the same themes of the Glasshouse 21 but with an elevated elegance and mellowness. The palate is a masterclass in balance, revealing a lovely depth and complexity expected of a well-aged whisky. It continues to carry that mintiness present in its younger sibling, but it’s interestingly expressed as warmth and subtle heat that is held back until the finish. 

Glen Grant Glasshouse 30 Years Old, 48% ABV – Review

 

Nose: Really candied and fruity this! The familiar honeyed sweetness intensifies, now reminiscent of pure, unfiltered honey, buzzing with notes of sweet summer fruits. Ripe peaches and a medley of melons—cantaloupe and honeydew—mingle with the subtle almond sweetness of marzipan. Beneath the fruit and candy there’s also a gentle praline nuttiness.

Palate: Thick syrup-like texture coats the tongue, the densest of the trio. The palate opens with a very mellow, approachable sweetness that belies its 48% ABV. Waves of caramelised sugar, followed by a gentle creaminess. Then it reveals with unhurried grace some emergent fruitiness; notes of tinned peaches and overripe grapes intertwine, offering a fleeting, not unpleasant hint of magic marker-like acetone.

Finish: The signature mintiness peaks here, then gradually fades, leaving a gentle warmth on the back of the throat. A lingering aroma of barley sugar trails, reminiscent of a visit to a traditional English candy store.

 

 

My Thoughts:

This is my unequivocal favourite of the trio and it’s the epitome of a well-aged Speyside whisky. It's not a complex dram in the traditional sense, but one with remarkable depth and mellowness that is only possible with well-aged Scotch. The flavours don't clamour for attention; instead, they unfold gradually, revealing a beautiful depth of summer fruits and caramelised sugars.

This is a whisky that doesn't strive to be everything, but does achieve near-perfection in its chosen path.

Final Thoughts 

This is surely a fitting tribute to Master Distiller Dennis Malcolm's legacy! While each whisky carries that consistent DNA of honeyed sweetness and a distinctive minty freshness, it's been a pleasure to experience how Glen Grant's spirit beautifully mellows out and develop depth during its journey from the early twenties to the 30s.

And while these are some of Glen Grant's most high-end core range whiskies, the character of the whisky also continues to be true to the ethos of Glen Grant to be very accessible and versatile. They're incredibly easy to pick up, and offer an inviting and easygoing introduction to casual drinkers, while still rewarding experienced Scotch fans with their depth and nuance.

The Glen Grant Glasshouse Collection is already available in Singapore (except for the 30-Year-Old which will be available in early 2025) can be purchased directly through Campari Group’s RARE Division. It will be progressively rolled out over the course of this year to select markets in Asia.

If you're based in Singapore and looking to acquire a bottle, do reach out to Campari Group's RARE Division for enquiries at rare.asia@campari.com or https://rarespirits.asia/.

 

@CharsiuCharlie