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In the heart of Edinburgh's historic Old Town, nestled under the shadow of the iconic Salisbury Crags hill, lies Holyrood Distillery, a beacon of innovation in the world of Scotch whisky. A relative newcomer to the Scotch whisky scene, having opened its doors in 2019, Holyrood quickly garnered attention as a rising star in the craft distilling movement that's been sweeping across Scotland. The timing and location are significant; Holyrood marks the return of single malt production to Edinburgh after a near-century-long hiatus.
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At the helm of this venture is Rob Carpenter who set up the Canadian branch of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society, and his co-founder, David Robertson, who comes with a pedigree of being the former Macallan Distillery’s Master Distiller; lending an air of credibility and anticipation to Holyrood's endeavours. The rest of the distillery’s scrappy team is a motley crew of individuals who did not receive a traditional academic training in brewing and distilling. Instead, they've honed their skills through hands-on experience at other distilleries – they include a former landscape gardener, Taekwondo instructor, bartender and students of chemistry or even medieval history. Their diverse backgrounds seem as varied as the flavours they will create.
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Founders Rob Carpenter and David Robertson.
This diversity is reflected in Holyrood's experimental ethos. This distillery is focused on spirits experimentation on a scale rarely seen in the industry. Nearly a hundred different recipes are tested each year. Unconventional yeasts are borrowed from Sherry, tequila, and even Champagne, while different heirloom barley varieties are explored.
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Before releasing whisky – whisky, after all, takes several years to mature – Holyrood made a name for itself with its award-winning Height of Arrows Gin and blended Elizabeth Yard Rum. They also forayed into experimental new-make spirits, with some notable releases inspired by alcoholic beverages from around the world. Their World Whisky Day 2023 Mexico release featured Mexican lager yeast and tequila yeast, resulting in a spirit bursting with citrus notes and a sharp, herbaceous agave-like character. The 2024 Poland release is crafted with roasted malt and ale yeast varieties, aimed to capture the essence of Polish-style Baltic porter. They also have a Vienna release which utilised kilned Vienna malt typically associated with Oktoberfest celebrations, offering a unique twist on traditional flavours.
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After years of anticipation, Holyrood has unveiled its inaugural single malt whisky: The Arrival. "The Arrival" represents the foundation of more traditional methods by Holyrood’s standards. Fermented for 104 hours using classic distillers’ yeast, the spirit was matured in first-fill bourbon casks before being split and re-racked into a combination of Pedro Ximénez and oloroso sherry casks, along with some rum barriques. The age isn’t disclosed on the label, but I’m told that this is just a 3-year-old single malt.
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The final product, married and bottled at 46.1% ABV, will serves as the foundation that would be tweaked by all future Holyrood single malt whiskies. It is from this base that the distillery will continue to evolve – presumably with heritage and specialty malts, a variety of non-whisky yeasts and other experimental approaches.
Thanks to Jian Shun from The Single Cask Singapore who recently took a trip to Scotland and grabbed this bottle along the way, we got a chance to have a sip of this stuff.
Holyrood Arrival, Edinburgh Single Malt, 46.1% ABV – Review
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Nose: A rich, rye-bread aroma fills the glass, and there’s the sweetness of sultana raisins. Then more glazed buns, caramel and toasted coconut flakes. Lightly resinous notes emerge along with anise seed. The bouquet mostly revolves around this distinct spiced breadiness underscored by a touch of honey and fresh green apples.
Palate: Malty, fruity and lightly spiced notes, with a medium-light body. Opens with apple juice and calvados followed by soft vanilla, honey, malt, and a prominent background of lemon zestiness accompanied by a persistent spearmint bite that lingers throughout. The flavours quite upfront and flavourful, but it's a youthful dram for sure – it’s very vibrant but some of these nuances are tempered by a touch of sharpness.
Finish: Long and lingering, with gentle baking spices that complement notes of green sultanas and Chinese maltose candy, developing towards a dominant green apple tea note along with a light, pasty character and some toasted malt. Fades into a background of subtle mossy earthiness and a whisper of bitter espresso.
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My Thoughts:
This is a remarkably flavourful 3-year-old single malt. It’s not the most sophisticated or mature dram yet, but it’s full of charm and character - the dominant notes of rye bread and unsweetened green apple tea is quite enjoyable and something I’d remember Holyrood for.
It’s only a shame that while I sense the distillate has more to offer, the sharpness of its youth slightly obscures the full potential of the Holyrood spirit. Nonetheless, the potential is undeniable, and I eagerly anticipate future releases.
In the meantime, enjoy this neat, or in a highball – it’s like unsweetened apple tea in a dram.
My Rating: 6.5/10
Score/Rating Scale :
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@CharsiuCharlie