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Whisky Reviews

Taste Testing GlenAllachie's New Era: GlenAllachie 10 Year Old, 12 Year Old, 15 Year Old, 18 Year Old, 35 Year Old

If you think we're making quips at Taylor Swift or new Internet lingo, I'll have you know - straight from the horse's mouth, GlenAllachie is going through a new era!

 

 

Down to the specifics, GlenAllachie is rebranding - having a new label transformation in their core range of whiskies, whilst introducing GlenAllachie's oldest whisky yet, a 35 Year Old core expression.

 

Source: GlenAllachie

 

If word of mouth is to go by, GlenAllachie has found a fanbase for its sherry cask whiskies, and is a staple amongst any decent whisky bar; their core official bottlings, old and new. But a few decades ago, that wasn't the case! In fact, GlenAllachie releasing their own official bottlings is a rather recent development for the distillery.

 

William Delmé-Evans. Source: GlenAllachie

 

GlenAllachie was established in 1967, built by whisky firm Mackinlay McPherson, the distilling subsidiary of Scottish & Newcastle (which, during that time, also owned Jura Distillery). GlenAllachie was also designed by William Delmé-Evans, an important post-WWII whisky figure who designed Tullibardine, MacDuff and Jura distillery, even being Jura's distillery manager for a while. The 60s was a time where whisky was booming, particularly in the US.

 

Chivas 12 Whisky bottled around the 1980s. Source: Whisky Exchange

In 1985, GlenAllachie was bought over by Invergordon Distillers, which four years later, was acquired by Campbell Distillers, a whisky blending and bottling company that is in turn owned by Pernod. GlenAllachie was briefly mothballed, and then under Campbell Distillers (and in turn, Pernod's) ownership, become a workhorse for Chivas blends.

 

A supposed GlenAllachie single malt bottled in the 1980s. Source: Whisky Hammer

 

GlenAllachie quietly trudged along the years, supplying malt whiskies to the huge blending outfit, with the very occasional and exceedingly rare bottlings for independent bottlers during the 80s. It was during 2017 - a mere seven years from today - that saw the winds of fate change for the distillery.

 

Billy Walker at GlenAllachie. Source: GlenAllachie

 

Enter Billy Walker: the living legend with a more than storied career in Scotch. Born in the whisky-producing town of Dumbarton, Scotland, he grew up around whisky, and after acquiring a degree in Chemistry, worked with the spirit; a notable gig being at the now-defunct Burn Stewart Distillers that helped to revive Deanston and Tombermory distillery.

 

Billy Walker. Source: Whisky Invest Direct

 

Come the 2000s, Billy would then work on acquiring and reviving BenRiach, GlenDronach and Glenglassaugh distillery. In 2017 (after all three scotch distilleries were acquired by Brown-Forman), Billy Walker acquired GlenAllachie from Chivas Brothers, with business partners Trisha Savage (who worked with Billy at BenRiach) and Graham Stevenson (former Inver House Distillers Managing Director). This wasn't Billy Walker's first acquisition from Chivas - in fact, BenRiach and GlenDronach were once under the Chivas banner.

 

Billy acquired BenRiach in 2004, helming the distillery up till 2016 before its acquisition by Brown-Forman. Just a month later, Billy announced his acquisition of GlenAllachie, a big surprise to the whisky world during that time.

 

Why GlenAllachie? To Billy, GlenAllachie was checked many boxes he was looking for: a distillery that wasn't widely known but was hugely favoured by blenders - in short, GlenAllachie, like his past projects BenRiach and GlenDronach, were blank canvas with a cherry on top - an already existing aging stock.

 

GlenAllachie has an inventory of 50,000 casks spanning over 16 warehouses when Billy Walker took over. Source: GlenAllachie

 

And so, Billy got to work - taking stock of what was quietly aging in the distillery. And much to Billy's pleasant surprise, inventory revealed whiskies aging as far back a 1978 were present on site (which, so happened to be near the time GlenAllachie started producing whiskies)! After taking stock, Billy went to chart the direction for the distillery: firstly, cutting down production volumes from a theoretical 4 million litres to just 500,000 litres a year. Secondly, Billy observed the profile of GlenAllachie's distillates - classic Speyside orchard fruits with herbal notes, with predominantly sherry casks. Billy also decided to slow fermentation down and extend it to 160 hours, which he said would have yielded more interesting flavour.

 

Billy in GlenAllachie's stillhouse. Source: Whiskymag

 

In just a mere 9 months, GlenAllachie's first core range bottlings were ready for the market: in July 2018, GlenAllachie released 10, 12, 15 and 18 year old official single malt core expressions: the first it has ever done in its entire history. 2019 also saw GlenAllachie opening its visitor centre on the first day of the Spirit of Speyside Festival.

 

GlenAllachie Billy Walker Edition: Past, Present, Future.

 

And that wasn't all that was happening in GlenAllachie: Billy Walker, the Master Distiller of GlenAllachie, was inducted into the Whisky Magazine's Hall of Fame in 2021: a tribute to those who have contributed greatly to the whisky world. To celebrate his 50-year old career in whisky, the distillery launched the Billy Walker 50th Anniversary Collection, featuring three bottles Past, Present and Future in 2022 (click here for our review of the Billy Walker 50th Anniversary Collection Future!).

And that brings us to today! Earlier in February this year (2024), GlenAllachie unveiled the bottle's new labels - whilst the liquid inside the bottle remains the same. The label rebranding, according to the design agency, "represent the brand’s evolution" since the first core range was released back in 2018, six years prior. The bottles also feature a renewed brand message "Whisky in Good Hands", reflecting the ace team behind GlenAllachie.

 

 

We had the opportunity to taste test the new guard of GlenAllachie at The Backdrop, a carabet inspired bar nestled within Zoco Ochard hotel. We started our tasting session with the Valley Julep, made with the 12 Year Old GlenAllachie.

 

 

Leading the tasting session was none other than Billy Walker himself! During the tasting session, Billy emphasised on the importance of selecting the right quality sherry casks, the complex chemistry behind aging whiskies, and teased future projects that are to come.

 

 

Let's get to tasting!

 

 

Whisky Review: GlenAllachie 10 Year Old Cask Strength, 59.4%

 

Whisky fans rejoice - a core expression bottled in Cask Strength! The 10 Year Old (11th batch as of publication date) is matured in a mix of Pedro Ximénez, Oloroso, red wine and virgin oak casks, bottled to 59.4% ABV.

Nose: Bright, lemony, and cereal-ly with a mild clove aroma lingering at the back. Golden raisins, stewed peaches and frangipani floral aromas develop in the glass, with a sweet, starchy, whole grain wheat aroma as a backbone.

Taste: Sweet, bright, and notably spicy. The sweet flavours come in the way of honeycomb and raw honey, carrying a slight floral note alongside it. The brightness comes in the form of green apples and pears, giving a fresh fruit, slightly tangy flavour to the whisky. On subsequent sips, a buttery, flaky flavour of croissants and raisin danish pastries come through, with a jelly sweetness, tart lemony profile and a buttery, flaky sweet pastry. A light dusting of grated nutmeg permeate the tasting.

 

 

Finish: On the finish, maltier, cereal like flavours are the mainstay, with some sweet-savoury spiced of cooked mace, allspice and tart pastry. There is still an inherent freshness and tartness from the earlier lemon curd, lemon juice flavours, albeit much more subdued

My Thoughts

This whisky is quite intense! Whilst being very sweet, there is that interplay of freshness and brightness from the liquid, with just enough spice to bring a layer of complexity. Folks who like honeyed whiskies with a present cereal mote would enjoy this whisky - as a caveat, this sits at a relatively high ABV as far as official bottlings go - be warned!

Whisky Review: GlenAllachie 12 Year Old, 46%

 

Nose: The whisky starts out bright and fruity, with a mostly dried tart fruit and spice character. Golden raisins, fruitcake, candied ginger are the mainstay dried fruit aromas, with a hint of nutmeg and Ceylon cinnamon spice coupled with a light spray of lemon juice and a drizzle of hot honey.

Taste: Slightly nutty at first, before developing into dried, tart fruit. Initially, it begins with walnuts and mildly roasted macadamia nuts, with a butteriness and slight toasty note. It tend brings out more tartness, with dried pineapple, lemon rind and ending with dried papaya. Throughout the tasting, a backbone of mace and ground clove persists.

 

 

Finish: A roasty sweetness and spicy flavour rounds off the whisky. An aftereffect of bright lemon juice persists, coupled with spiced cookies, lebkuchen (German ginger bread cake), candied ginger and the numbing buzz of nutmeg.

My Thoughts

This whisky starts bold on the aromas and flavours, but mellows out with some time and subsequent tastings. The bit I appreciated most about this bottling is that freshness and slight acidic zing from the lemon juice and the dried tropical fruits. The sweetness develops further into the finish, staying relatively subdued during the tasting, which prevents the whisky from getting too sweet right off the bat. This whisky is interesting in the sense that you do get much of that dried fruit character, with that sticky sweetness normally associated with sherry casks being tempered slightly.

To sum up, this whisky is undeniably sherried, but carries a nice tangy moreishness that keeps you going for a second sip.

Whisky Review: GlenAllachie 15 Year Old, 46%

Nose: Deep, syrupy and sticky on the nose, giving an initial dense aroma of pitted dates, gula melaka syrup and dark muscovado sugar, before developing into toffee apples, butterscotch bits and dark raisin. Letting the whisky develop in the glass, orangette and dark chocolate aromas arise.

Taste: The whisky starts out dense and spicy, with a chocolatey heaviness coating the palate. An initial burst of coconut candy and coconut-topped chocolate bites is followed by cacao powder, then developing into dried pitted fruits like dried cherries and cranberries. The flavours round off with an amaretto-esque almond sweetness.

 

 

Finish: The finish is surprisingly light, with hints of palm sugar and cola syrup. The spice flavours read of nutmeg, clove and cassia, with a cereal-like flavour of oat porridge and sweetened wheat cookies. A very subtle hint of coffee rounds off the finish, with flavours of coffee candy and light mocha.

My Thoughts

Wow! That initial nose was surprising  - that date-coconut like aroma was really quite novel to find in a whisky. The whisky does exhibit more sweet, denser flavours and aromas than the 10 year old, with a much more subdued profile in the way of fruitiness. Throughout the whisky, there is that subtle coffee note that is expressed from the nose to the finish, which adds an appreciable complexity to the otherwise quite sweet and syrupy whisky. For those who prefer dessert-forward whiskies, this one is for you.

Whisky Review: GlenAllachie 18 Year Old, 46%

Nose: Initially, the whisky expresses aromas of cola and sarsaparilla. There is a sweet, citrus brightness, but moreso in the realm of orange spritz and marmalade, coupled with the chocolate and muffin nose of jaffa cakes and the dried fruit character of golden raisins. The nose evolves further into a cohesive blend of spices and dried fruit, with candied ginger, star anise and cassia. A small hint of meaty, preserved meat funk is expressed every now and then, akin to salami slices. With long development, the nose becomes very floral, with aromas of chrysanthemum blossoms and potpourri.

Taste: An initial palate of sweet tea - the whisky jumps to you as sweet and tannic. After the initial wave of sweet tea flavours, there is a chalky texture to the whisky, akin to milk chocolate and honey comb candy. A tinge of golden syrup and golden raisins develop in the background, alongside dried tropical fruit slices of pineapple and subtle green mango.

 

 

Finish: The astringency makes a return, bringing about flavours of tea stalks and heavily steeped black tea. A different form of sweetness develops, with vanilla infused sugar and sweet biscuit being the main flavours, followed by the core of a ripe banana. Throughout the finish, there is a subtle warming baking spice mix that lingers at the back of the palate.

My Thoughts

The main characteristic of this whisky is how layered it is - through the nose, taste and finish, each sip and sniff brings about a different spectrum of flavours, aromas and textures. The whisky starts out somewhat fruity and bright at first, making a return to that slight lemony profile of the 12 year old, but quickly turns into more vanillic sweet profiles, coupled with ebbs and flows of spice flavours and aromas. Interestingly, this whisky does not have the same sticky denseness as the 15 year old, perhaps with more introduction of the tannins and having confectionery flavours as opposed to syrupy ones. This whisky is perhaps best enjoyed over a long time, with a big pour in a dram glass and lid.

Whisky Review: GlenAllachie 35 Year Old, 48%

 

Now this whisky is special - a blend of six casks: three Pedro Ximénez, one Oloroso, and two virgin oak casks. For a bottling with liquid dating back to 1989, this bottle is encased in a hand-carved oak box.

Nose: The whisky starts of with a bit of varnish and nail polish, quite akin to Jamaican rums. After the initial rush of varnish, dried pineapples, milk chocolate, and a waxy note of preserved Chinese sausages arise from the whisky. Strong floral aromas of dried marigold, dried figs and dried honey dates arise, giving the nosing a honey-esque floral accent. With a bit of development, the whisky exhibits scented wood aromas, such as teak, sandalwood incense and frankincense.

Taste: The whisky is complex and layered, starting off with flavours of dried stone fruits - dried peaches, some accents of fresh dark plum, and a honey-floral fleshiness of fresh fig. The whisky then develops to chocolate (the 85% unsweetened kind), muscovado sugar, chocolate coated candied ginger and freshly shaved nutmeg. After sitting for a bit, on subsequent sips, the whisky takes on a wheaty, malty profile - with flavours of cooked malt porridge and sweetened boiled oats. The astringency of the whisky, whilst present, is not as intense or bitey, like cold brew tea.

 

 

Finish: The finish lasts long, starting with spiced candied nuts, developing specifically into chocolate coated almonds. The tannins fade slowly, starting out with a red-tea like characteristic that makes way to a sweet-savoury finish of barbecue marinate, homemade teriyaki sauce and hot honey, with hints of black pepper and sweet sherry wine to finally round off the whisky.

My Thoughts

The first impression that came to me was that this was proper sherry whisky with a old age statement! The whisky checks all the boxes for sherry whisky - dried fruit, spice, confectionery, yet what impresses me the most is how cohesive and gelled together the aromas and flavours were! Perhaps as a point of comparison, the 18 Year Old displays a multitude of flavours; but here, the aromas and flavours interplay on each other to give a symphonic whisky.

Apart from displaying the signature sherry characteristics, this whisky also has lots of complexity going for it - in particular I really adore the scented wood aromas that I get on the nose. The tannins are mellowed out perfectly, giving a sense of fullness and body to the whisky that does not take away from other flavours; as if a scaffolding.

In summary, this goes beyond textbook sherry; this is a whole encyclopedia, a dissertation, a masterclass on big age statements of sherry whisky. Lovers of the sherry whisky profile should try and have a sip of this!

Conclusion

 

Tasting through the GlenAllachie core range, I get why the distillery's bottlings are such a hit - layered, complex, yet delivering the promise of sherry and more. I really appreicate how there's more to just dried fruit, toffee and coffee notes; there's layers of fresh fruit and tartness that breathes some life and vibrancy. The 35 year old was impressive, checking all the boxes of sherry whisky and delivered more. Fantastic stuff!

GlenAllachie's whiskies are available in Singapore and Malaysia from Asiaeuro Wine & Spirits' official online store.

 

@vernoncelli

P.S Billy Walker has also released a special bottling for the Year of the Snake, launched in Singapore (a first for GlenAllachie). Stay tuned for the review!