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Whisky Reviews

Taste Testing Glendronach's Master's Anthology: Glendronach Ode To The Valley, Ode To The Embers & Ode To The Dark

 

Glendronach has steadily racked up quite a cult following for itself over the recent years for delivering richer flavours and a more unctuous body, wholly channelling deep tones of Sherry cask ageing, which it touts as being one of the few Scotch distilleries to exclusively use Spanish Sherry oak for maturing its whiskies - in contrast, over 90% of Scotch whiskies are matured either entirely or first in ex-Bourbon barrels, before they are given a finishing or second leg of ageing in another type of cask, possibly Sherry oak.

Yet, it feels like a long time coming, after all Glendronach is one of the oldest active and licensed Scotch distilleries around, having been established in 1826 by one James Allardice. And so in that time, and certainly long before Sherry cask ageing had become as popular as it is today, Glendronach has always had this Sherry cask focus - a stylistic choice it makes as a result of its particular spirit profile which is uniquely made in a saxophone shaped neck (of its pot still) which produces a deeper and fuller bodied newmake that lends well to the equally deeper and richer flavours that a Sherry cask provides.

 

Glendronach Distillery.

 

And so Glendronach has always been a pillar of the Scotch whisky scene, but in a world of skyrocketing release prices, the 'Dronac has proved to be a refuge for those looking for quality at a great price - whilst I don't typically like to tout great prices as a matter of value proposition, it would be incomplete for me to not make mention of it in characterising the quiet yet full force at which Glendronach has been stirring its ardent fans.

Now sometime in 2024, Glendronach undertook a re-design to give it a more modern look - which I personally quite appreciate the new aesthetic - this also came with the launch of a new three-bottle series known as the Master's Anthology, which are non-age statement bottlings that lie outside the age statement plied core range. I'm sure there's folks who will always have something to say about the absence of an age-statement - there always is, but this time it comes with a theme that I actually quite appreciate, and that's that the Master's Anthology is said to be an exploration and reimagining of Glendronach's signature Sherry focus! Personally I find that to be quite interesting because we'll get to hopefully see new aspects of the Glendronach profile - one that has predominantly (historically) focused on consistency and emphasis on a singular core flavour profile.

 

The wonderful Dr Barrie who helms Glendronach as Master Distiller, and who created the Master's Anthology!

| Read: Dr Rachel Barrie On How Nature Shapes Whisky More Than A Master Blender Ever Could, & The Future Of The Glendronach, Benriach and Glenglassaugh Single Malts

 

It's unsurprising then that given how Glendronach wants to preserve its core line-up to make sure it continues to deliver the same consistent style that folks have grown to love, that anything experimental would have to lie outside and adjacent to the existing flagship expressions.

In any case, the Master's Anthology comes in three bottles, each paying homage to the distillery's landscape - and so we have the following:

  • Glendronach Master's Anthology Ode to the Valley
  • Glendronach Master's Anthology Ode to the Embers
  • Glendronach Master's Anthology Ode to the Dark

We'll explore each of them below!

Let's go!

Whisky Review: Glendronach Ode To The Valley, Master's Anthology, 46.2% ABV

First up! This is Ode to the Valley, which is a blend of whiskies matured in Sherry and Port casks. The Port casks here are specifically Ruby Port casks from Portugal's Douro Valley.

  

Tasting Notes

Colour: Amber

Aroma: Really rich here, filled with all manners of dried, stewed and juicy dark fruits of plums, prunes and raisins, almost coated in honey with also a drizzle of caramel. The deep Sherry tones emanates with depth and plushness, yet at the same time comes off really well-integrated. There's also alittle bit of rancio here, as well as some leather, almond nuttiness, before we get back to more of that concentrated honey and honeycomb waxiness. It's almost giving Crunchie honeycomb chocolate candy. 

Taste: Medium-bodied here, it's still very much honeyed and of caramel, topped over stewed plums, prunes, figs and raisins. It's really creamy, even alittle syrupy and rounded, with more earthiness of leather, chocolate and tobacco. There's a touch of rancio that persists, of dried sour plums, joined by some marzipan. It's really juicy and rich, and also really concentrated and well-saturated. Some orange oils that accent the richness of the body too.

Finish: Really long finish here, it's super creamy and rich, with scoops of honey, as well as tobacco and cloves, along with those never ending stewed plums and prunes. A persisting touch of rancio. It's a really lush and juicy, fruit-forward finish, that's entirely backed up by maltose candy, honey and a garnish of burnt orange peels.

 

My Thoughts

This was so juicy! It's entirely fruit driven riding atop a wave of caramel and honey, yet neither heavy nor over the top, it's just really well-saturated and concentrated. There's a prominent aspect of earthiness as well, with also this aromatic persistence of rancio mustiness of gunny sacks of dried fruit from the bazaar. All of this is then accented by some zesty orange peels - it really is rather gourmet as I'm typing it out and reflecting back on it - and oh so silky and velvety. Wow! This is just superbly flavour forward, really approachable and comforting, warm and inviting, lush, just simply amazing! It's like digging into a prune pie by the countryside with an Old Fashioned to go with it.

Whisky Review: Glendronach Ode To The Embers, Master's Anthology, 48.4% ABV

The Ode to the Embers is a Highland peated expression from Glendronach, that's then aged in Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez casks.

Highland peated whiskies aren't nearly as accessible as say Islay peated whiskies, and the difference comes down to the composition of the peat (the soil-like material that's taken from the ground and used to kiln the barley, thereby giving the barley a smokiness that carries into the whisky) - where Islay peat is more coastal and showcases more salinity and medicinal qualities, Highland peat comes from shrubs, and thus is more heathery and earthy. Most Highland distilleries don't use peat as a matter of stylistic choice, as compared to Islay distilleries, and so anytime we get to try a peated Highland whisky is going to be interesting!

  

Tasting Notes

Colour: Amber

Aroma: Light sweet binchotan charcoal smoke, the heather and shrubbery immediately comes through, like stomping through the Highlands, there's also quite abit of brown leaves, with all these rustic qualities. This comes atop a base of sweet honey garnished by some tangerines, as well as a softer side of plums and prunes. Also this cooked wine leaves not that's somewhat leafy, almost a touch vinous and chewy. Very intriguing...

Taste: Medium-bodied, really nice roundedness, it's richer, almost syrupy to its body. Thicker and more viscous manuka honey, with an ever so gentle bitterness. More on plums and prunes, that lovely cooked wine leaves again. It's got this oiliness to it. More on leather, again that touch of rancio of dried sour plums. The smokiness isn't quite so apparent here, and instead we get lots of juicy stone fruits and a nice meatiness of charcuterie oils.

Finish: Light dusting of charcoal ash, it's a sweet ash for that matter, back to that Highland quality of heather and autumnal browned leaves. There's also a light nuttiness of chopped almonds, a top note of burnt orange peel, with the smokiness returning in the form of ash. More on burnt leaves and shrubbery, and as it develops, a somewhat herbal note of eucalyptus. It's really buttery with this big slide of honey, leading into a long and silky, seamless finish.

 

My Thoughts

Beyond all the flavours here, this comes off really textural - it's got this syrupy, almost waxy oiliness that's just incredibly luscious and unctuous. As is the Glendronach character, it's big of those juicy dark fruits and caramel and honey, yet here there's also this really delightful chewy leafiness of cooked vine leaves (dolmades in Greek). The smokiness here is commendably well-integrated into the body, it comes off as a sweet binchotan charcoal ash, with not so much an overt smokiness as is the case with Islay - it's also sweeter and more heathery. I've always said that folks who don't quite vibe with Islay whiskies should definitely seek out a Highland peated whisky, which is something I stand by, and this is a great case study in our peat studies.

Whisky Review: Glendronach Ode To The Dark, Master's Anthology, 50.8% ABV

Finally we have the Ode to the Dark that's focused entirely on Pedro Ximenez (PX) Sherry ageing! Whilst it is also a Sherry cask nevertheless, it's worth noting that most Sherry cask aged whiskies are Oloroso, which is a more dry style compared to PX. The reason most folks choose Oloroso over PX comes down to how difficult it is to nail the sweeter style PX integration with the whisky without the PX completely taking over - so in a very subtle manner, this is quite the flex from Glendronach.

PX aged whiskies (spirits really, because believe me, other folks beyond whiskies have tried their hand at this as well) are really difficult to get right, but when it works, it works wonders. In this particular instance Glendronach believes that its unique spirit profile bodes well to even a "stronger" style of Sherry, and hence the idea here is to demonstrate what the Glendronach spirit can do!

 

Tasting Notes

Colour: Mahogany

Aroma: Really juicy yet immediately deeper, with darker tones of chocolate, honeycomb, caramel, to go with the dark fruits of plums, prunes and raisins. It's accented by candied citrus, and grounded by more earthy notes of tobacco leaves, also combining to give chocolate dipped orangettes. At its base, more on maltose candy, Pei Pa Koa herbal cough syrup, manuka honey, along with a more herbal quality of eucalyptus. There's whiffs of peanuts and parsleys too, joining that distinct brightness of orange peels. It's equal parts fruit and earth, with also side of oak. Really elegant, rich, and yet complete with both brighter and darker tones.

Taste: Medium bodied here, it's silky and rich yet not as syrupy. In fact, the backbone and structure is rather obvious here, almost crystalline and muscular, yet still very much concentrated with chocolate coated orangettes, burnt orange peels, candied oranges, along with caramel and honey. Also some tobacco leaves and cloves. Dried plums, prunes and figs at the core, with also a slightly more present oakiness. It's got great tension and precision, giving this an incredibly elegant profile. 

Finish: More nuttiness and herbaceous parsley that comes through, with also herbal tones of manuka honey, Pei Pa Koa herbal cough syrup and eucalyptus, as well as earthiness of leather, tobacco leaves and leather polish. There's lots of that nuttiness that persists, along with a lingering bit of dried plums and prunes. It's long and waxy through the finish, outlined by citrusy aromatics on an undertone of peanuts and parsley, along with more eucalyptus and some rancio of dried sour plums.

 

My Thoughts

This was surprisingly more austere and crystalline, yet entirely concentrated with great complexity of dried dark fruits, herbal elements and also earthy tones. It's not over the top or even syrupy sweet, even showcasing a rather crystalline and taut body. It's big on aromatics with a more refreshing and lifted quality that plays a great contrast to the well saturated and intensely fruited body. This has great presence and has a strong character, certainly something worth sitting with and gazing into.

 

Kanpai!

 

@111hotpot