Tasmania in 1992 was not a whisky-producing paradise. In fact, it hadn’t been one for 154 years. The island had seen a flurry of distilleries in the 1820s and ’30s, but those died under colonial legislation when the Tasmanian government in 1838 abruptly banned small-scale distilling to conserve grain. 

Australia’s mainland did not fare better. Victoria’s 1862 Distillation Act imposed strict minimum production rates, and in 1901 a federal Distillation Act required stills capable of 2,700 L per run. These rules favoured large industrial producers that made poor quality whisky by international standards, and effectively squeezed out any craft distillers. By the 1980s, no whisky was made in Australia.

Sons of Temperance Procession in New South Wales, 1872 – The Temperance movement left a lasting impact on the Australian distilling industry for over a hundred years. 

Once whisky distillation went extinct in Australia, the laws continued to keep craft whisky from reemerging. Small bars and home distillers could not realistically obtain licences and these onerous licensing terms meant high investment and political will were needed to start a distillery.

By 1990 a few enthusiasts were experimenting illegally. Bill and Lyn Lark themselves were producing whisky in 20-L stills and aging them in barrels. Finally, a reform movement emerged when Bill successfully lobbied the government to allow small-scale whisky production.

Founding of Lark Distillery

It was on a Tasmanian fishing trip in the 1980s that the idea for Lark Distillery struck Bill. He and his (later) father-in-law were in the Central Highlands enjoying brown trout and whisky when they wondered: “Tasmania…has all the elements required to make whisky – water, barley, highland peat, and the right climate. So why weren’t Tasmanians making it?”. This offhand question ignited a dream.

Bill Lark – Founder of Lark Distillery and "Godfather" of the modern Australian whisky industry.

The Larks set about turning that dream into reality. Bill Lark bought a small copper pot still at auction for $65, and he and Lyn began learning distillation methods. Bill even trained at Roseworthy Agricultural College (South Australia) to gain experience on a large still. Back home, they tested recipes on a homemade still (their first spirits were distilled on a kitchen table).

Meanwhile, the legal barrier still loomed. Many thought a 19th‑century distillation ban made the plan impossible. But Bill took matters into his own hands. On a whim he walked into his local MP Duncan Kerr’s office. Bill’s charisma Kerr’s love of whisky led them to call Customs Minister Barry Jones – himself a whisky lover. Within months the federal law was amended.

In 1992 the government granted the Larks the first Tasmanian distilling licence in 154 years! Lark Distillery was born – on paper at least – making it the first legal whisky distillery in Tasmania (and indeed Australia) in the modern era.

Lark’s Whisky Philosophy and Process

None of this came from tradition. With no Australian single-malt model to follow, Lark Distillery drew inspiration from Scotch whisky traditions, while emphasising Tasmanian character. Bill Lark describes their style as “similar in style to Scotch, however…using Australian ingredients”.

This means local malted barley (Tasmania grows malting barley very successfully) and pure Tasmanian water (renowned for its softness, akin to Scottish spring water). Lark noted that the local barley offers a “big fat oily malt” flavour – the rich foundation of their spirit.

The Tasmanian Central Highlands

Rather than importing peated barley, Lark’s peat is also homegrown. And unlike traditional Scottish methods that peat barley during the malting process, Lark employs a post-malt peat smoking technique. This approach imparts a softer, more nuanced smokiness to the whisky that combines floral and earthy notes – quite a different character from a heavy Islay Scotch.

After mashing and slow fermentation, Lark uses a Scotch-style double-distillation process in a pot still, before aging the spirit in casks that are often quite small – sometimes only a few hundred litres – which accelerates maturation by increasing wood contact. The casks themselves are mostly old Tasmanian red-wine barrels from local wineries, or sherry barrels. This heavy cask influence gives Lark whisky distinctive fruitiness and sweetness.

Lark’s first whisky didn’t hit the bottle until 1998, roughly six years after those first drops flowed.

Lark’s Influence and Legacy

Crucially, Lark’s early quality wins helped sell Australia on its own whiskies. In 2009 Lark Distillery won “Best Whisky Outside Scotland and Ireland” at the World Whisky Awards, putting tiny Tasmania on the global map. By then, Lark has cultivated an international following among enthusiasts.

Lark lit a fuse under Australia’s whisky revival. Within two years of Lark’s founding, Sullivan’s Cove was launched in 1994 – which in 2014 captivated the world by winning the “World’s Best Single Malt” title. A slew of Tasmanian and mainland craft distilleries opened. Bill himself became a mentor and advocate: he co-founded the Tasmanian Whisky & Spirits Association and helped set up the Australian Distillers Association. He even advised whisky projects abroad, such as on Scotland’s new Kingsbarns Distillery.

By the early noughties, Tasmania has become the centre for Australian whisky, and it’s largely thanks to Lark’s support and reputation. Lark continues to be known as the pioneer that inspired a new generation of craft distillers and proved Australia could produce world‑class single malt.

Lark Distillery’s Whiskies

Today Lark Distillery sits at the heart of Australia’s whisky renaissance. In Hobart’s old industrial quarter you can tour the distillery and taste its full range showcasing different mash bills, casks and techniques: This includes the flagship Lark Classic Cask Single Malt made in first fill sherry and port casks, the Tasmanian Peated Single Malt said to be made with Tasmania’s own “new-world” peat that lends a softer character, and quirky Chinotto Citrus Cask-finished expression – an experimental finish that imparts herbal citrus notes that has since become incorporated into the core range.

Let’s dive right into tasting each of these core range expressions!

Lark Classic Cask Single Malt, 43% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Rich with great depth, opening with a malty, rounded character that immediately fills the glass. There's a mild wet stone minerality that sits just underneath, giving a slightly cool, clean undertone. A husky, cereal-like note runs through it, offering the comforting scent of freshly milled grains. As it opens up, softer aromas start to bloom — apricot blossoms and green grapes rise up, joined by a distinct, candy-like note that reminds me of grape gummies. There's also the smell of wet dough, lending a yeasty, slightly raw texture to the bouquet. As the whisky breathes, deeper notes of honey emerge, layering with candied pineapples and a fleshy, tropical white fruit character that rounds out the nose beautifully.

Palate: Follows through with the richness promised on the nose with a medium-oily texture that coats the tongue. Opens with lush honeyed and caramelly notes, offering plenty of depth without feeling heavy. Running through this are Christmas spices and a light spearmint lift which adds a bit of freshness.

There's a seamless integration of flavours — wine gums, jammy fruit, vanilla and more honey — that blend together without any sharp edges. The core of the palate is built around a very solid, deep foundation of barley character, demerara sugar and vanilla. I like that it manages to bring out all this richness without tipping into dry or overly oaky territory, keeping the focus firmly on the malt and natural sweetness.

Finish: Long, lingering with a soft, warm sweetness of vanilla and Demerara sugar.

My Thoughts:

The Lark Classic Cask shows a very precise and thoughtful maturation, avoiding any sense of overoaking while bringing out a rich, layered character that's impressive for its 43% ABV. It reminds me of a Highland Scotch whisky in its lush, malty profile, but with a slightly brighter, more expressive lift — a liveliness that I associate with the demerara sugar sweetness threading through it.

And while the actual aging time isn't disclosed, the whisky feels satisfyingly mature, with no signs of youthfulness or imbalance. Overall, it's a very solid expression from Lark, and it absolutely deserves its position as the flagship of great quality Australian craft whisky that would delight whisky lovers just stepping down under.

Lark Tasmanian Peated Single Malt, 46% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens rich and very honeyed, carrying a lush sweetness. There are some peat nuances but it all stays light, more of a soft undercurrent than a dominant note. Some scent of dry English breakfast tea leaves that add a faintly tannic dryness to balance the honey. There’s also a very light touch of incense and as it continues to open up, notes of barley sugar come through sweet but clean, along with the comforting warmth of butter shortbread. Everything feels gentle and layered, with no one element trying to dominate the others.

Palate: Immediately feels really rich, with the oily texture standing out immediately, giving it a weighty, almost velvety feel. It opens with more spiced notes than the nose suggests, showing touches of anise and cloves that give it a slightly prickly warmth. As it settles, those spices quickly give way to softer, sweeter layers of honey pastry and barley sugars. Light but clear notes of red ripe fruits start to emerge — pomegranates and raspberries mainly — alongside a fresher, citrusy lift of clementines. Towards the back of the palate, there's a liquorice note and something that reminds me of Hacks candy, that familiar blend of menthol sweetness and herbal edge.

Finish: The peat stays very gentle throughout but finally makes a clearer appearance on the finish. It’s a light, ashy peat rather than a thick smoke, and it carries subtle nuances of dried florals alongside the more prominent honeyed, butter shortbread and vanilla notes that linger.

My Thoughts:

I found this whisky to be very rich, honeyed and biscuity, with rather nuanced layers of pastry, spice and fruit that all come together much better than I expected. It's pretty complex, but very well integrated across all dimensions. The peat is really gentle just has that ashy element peeking in right at the end, and not something you may notice unless it was specifically called out. Not at all like what you would typically expect from a peated Scotch.

It makes for a rather interesting take on a peated expression from down under, and also offers greater emphasis on livelier, fresher and fruitier flavours that seem to match Australian palates more than the heavier, brinier styles preferred by the Brits.

Lark Chinotto Citrus Cask Single Malt, 44% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Sweet, citric and lightly herbaceous right from the start. It honestly feels like what an Aperol Spritz would be if you captured it in liquor form. There’s a clear mix of orange peel and Angostura bitters and some tarragon weaving through that gives it both freshness and a touch of herbal sharpness. Some barley sugar notes. The overall impression leans lush, like a blend of Orangina orange soda and chewy orange gummies. It’s bright, fruity and completely different from any classic whisky nose.

Palate: Noticeably lighter in weight than the earlier whiskies we’ve had from Lark, but it fits the style here. It opens with a lively, crisp character very much like a blood orange soda — full of vibrant, juicy orange peel flavours that immediately jump out, flashes of Cointreau reinforcing that bittersweet orange character, along with just hints of menthol that cool the palate. It continues with a nice, restrained note of Angostura bitters in the background that gives a subtle herbal-bitter structure to balance the fruitiness without overwhelming it.

Finish: Consistent with the rest of the experience: lightly herbaceous with a delicate sweetness that hangs around. Sweet orange peel remains the dominant note, with light touches of dried fruits, especially dried apricots. There is a slow-rising red pepper spice creeping in towards the end, adding just a tiny flash of heat.

My Thoughts:

This whisky really stands out for how unusual and super fruity it is. The aroma is much closer to a cocktail than what you'd expect from a whisky, and on the palate it drinks more like a refreshing orange brandy than anything traditionally malt-driven.

Some whisky purists might be thrown off by something this far off the classic whisky profile, but honestly, as a sipping spirit this would garner very broad appeal. It’s easygoing yet distinctive, and it’s something I can see myself reaching for often. It’s also memorable enough for me to consider as a gift to my whisky-loving friends.

Final Thoughts

I found myself most drawn to the Classic Cask. It hits a sweet spot for me — rich, layered and full of character without tipping into heaviness. It makes me suspect that I would love the cask strength edition even more, especially if it brings an extra punch of concentration to those lush honeyed and malty notes.

The Tasmanian Peated is also a very solid expression. Personally, I’m a fan of peated Scotch and I might prefer a touch more smokiness, but that's really just a subjective preference; what’s here is very well judged, and the gentle peat works nicely with the sweeter and fruitier layers. Finally, the Chinotto Citrus Cask, is almost incomparable — it doesn't fit the classic mould at all. It feels much more like a vibrant, lively spirit that would absolutely shine in a highball, and I strongly suspect that was all part of the intention behind it.

What’s clear across all three is that Lark brings something very welcome to the table: they manage to carry over that familiar Highland Scotch whisky character — the malty depth, the balance, the structure — but add distinctive twists in various aspects. There's more fruit, more depth, and a greater sense of immediacy in the flavours. Overall, it’s also very solid quality across the board, and it’s easy to see why Lark is held in such high regard among Australian whisky producers!

@CharsiuCharlie