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Whisky Reviews

Taste Testing The Glenlivet Caskmakers Single Malt Scotch Whisky

 

Last year, Glenlivet released a new travel retail exclusive, the Caskmakers. This is a unique and innovative expression. The Speyside distillery painstakingly deconstructed two barrels and combined the staves to reconstruct a new cask. Ex-sherry casks from Jerez, Spain, were united with freshly charred European oak barrels. Whisky was matured in American and European oak, and a portion was selectively finished in these reconstructed barrels.

Breaking down the details

Although the whisky was matured in recrafted casks assembled from two different sources, it should not be mistaken for a true single-cask release. Several reconstructed casks were crafted, so each bottling is likely a vatting from all the different barrels to maintain a consistent flavour profile.

 

 

I have a few questions about the cask treatment: were the barrels that once held the distillate taken apart and recombined? The phrase “ex-Spanish sherry” simply tells us the barrel previously contained Spanish sherry, not the oak species itself. As for the term “freshly charred European oak,” are those the same staves that once bore the whisky and were then re-charred, or entirely new European oak staves that were charred for the first time? While I will refrain from diving deeper into the minutiae, a bit more transparency around this innovative cask-making process would be most welcome.

 

The Glenlivet Distillery

Nestled in the heart of Speyside near Ballindalloch, The Glenlivet takes its name from the Gaelic Gleann Lìobhait - the “Valley of the Livet.” Here, the Livet River is born where two mountain streams converge high in the Grampian mountains.

Glenlivet was one of the first to be licensed after the 1823 Excise Act. The founder, George Smith, was a farmer who was an illegal distiller himself. He was one of the first to step forward and earn the new license.

By the 1860s, Glenlivet was known for producing a spirit with a pineapple note. The floral, estery character was a contrast with the heavy, dense, and decadent styles prevalent at that time.

 

My Tasting Notes

Nose: Ripe Granny Smith apples with juicy Graham pears, with a drizzle of honey. Subtle herbal notes with fresh loquat. Gentle notes of raisins and red dates provide a hint of sweetness. A whisper of smoke and dried apricots completes the experience.

Palate: Rich vanilla with toasted oak, subsequently joined by a refined sherry character. Succulent raisins and red plums emerge with cinnamon and candied ginger. A burst of charred pineapple and orange pound cake towards the end adds depth and complexity.

Finish: Subtle herbal notes are complemented by honey sweetness. This leads to stewed apples topped with mandarin zest. An opulent dark chocolate bitterness comes, with a hint of brown sugar and ginger spice.

My Thoughts

The brilliance of this dram lies in its dual-wave flavour journey. Initially, the bourbon influence delivers bright orchard fruits and creamy vanilla. Then, the sherry makes a graceful entrance, gently enveloping the palate with rich, dried fruits. It is akin to two parallel streams converging into a single, powerful river of taste. Each flavour current is distinct yet harmoniously intertwined.

Unlike traditional cask finishing, this expression blends staves from both barrel types from the start. The result is a seamless marriage of bourbon and sherry elements. Neither dominates, and the synergy feels purposeful instead of incidental. I do believe the sherry influence comes from refill butts, as it does not overwhelm the palate. Instead, it provides depth without the cloying sweetness of first-fill sherry barrels.

My only wish is for a slightly higher alcohol proof. A bolder expression would serve as a stronger medium to transmit these complex flavours. This would allow nuances to shine more brightly and make analysis easier. While drinkability is of utmost importance, preserving the full impact of such an innovative cask creation warrants a little extra attention.

Greater transparency would also be appreciated. A deep dive into the cask combination process would be bound to thrill enthusiasts. While such information may not fit on the box, there is a QR code on the back that links to an online webpage. However, it displayed the same information as the box, albeit with graphics.

Glenlivet’s distillate is highly versatile, and I have come to expect excellence from it. So, here’s hoping Glenlivet offers just a touch more punch in proof, even if a full cask strength release remains aspirational.

 

Penned by Pivoine