Few things truly capture the Japanese spirit of craftsmanship and persistence as this expression, which was aged for 18 years exclusively in valuable Mizunara casks. 

Mizunara translates to "water oak" in Japanese, and is a type of oak indigenous to Japan renowned for its unique attributes that make it both a blessing and a challenge for whisky-making. Once reserved for expensive furniture, Mizunara found itself being used by Japanese coopers during wartime when American and European oak was scarce.

Consider this: Of the tens of thousands of casks filled per year at Yamazaki (we estimate there're about 30,000), only about 150 are Mizunara casks. That's a minuscule number that speaks to the rarity and specialty of this unique oak.

But what value does Mizunara bring to whisky production? Its reputation comes not only from its imparting unusual temple incense, sandalwood and coconut flavours but also from the difficulty for craftsmen to work with this particular species of wood.

From a cooper's perspective, it’s a challenge to fashion casks out of Mizunara oak. Unlike straight-growing European or American oak trees, Mizunara grows in a warped fashion, requiring trees to be around 200 years old before usable cuts can be fashioned into barrels. Even then, these barrels are prone to leakage and breakage due to the oak's porous nature, necessitating thicker layers.

The whisky-maker also faces a challenge working with Mizunara. Too brief a maturation results in an unpleasant, one-dimensional astringency, while slightly too much time in Mizunara can cause the oak flavours to dominate, creating a bitter taste. The ideal balance is hard to strike, making Mizunara a Goldilocks of oak types.

Since the 1940s, Shinjiro Torii and Keizo Saji have begun experimenting with the optimal conditions and duration for aging whisky in this distinctive wood, reflecting a dedication to craftsmanship that is uniquely Japanese.

Almost all core range Yamazaki single malt expressions contain a component of Mizunara-aged whisky to give it a distinctive character. But, as I’ve mentioned, this limited release had been exclusively aged in Mizunara, which makes for not only a more intensely-flavoured whisky, but also one that had been very difficult to mature optimally. Let’s give this a taste.

Yamazaki 18 Mizunara 100th Anniversary Limited Edition, 48% ABV – Review

Tasting Notes 

Colour: Gold with reddish hue. Fairly slow legs.

Aroma: Initially somewhat elusive – it seemed mildly resinous and shy, as if holding back its character. It all opens up quite a bit after about 10 seconds of swirling and allowing my senses to adjust; the whisky begins to express itself more openly. Thick wine-like sweetness and nuttiness emerge from the depths, presenting rich notes of smooth Zinfandel wine, strawberry jam, and quince pie.

The bouquet continues to unfold, with elements of toffee and vanilla coming through, and a nutty undertone of toasted almonds.

Given slightly more time, an interesting mild powdered sugar sweetness surfaces, reminiscent of marshmallows or a traditional mochi-like South Chinese dessert, Ji Hong Gao (吉红糕). A touch of mintiness is also detected, along with a mild rubbery scent.

Taste: The texture is memorable, it’s noticeably oily and coats the tongue. A burst of syrupy fruitiness first greets the palate, again echoing the character of a sweet Zinfandel. Subtle undertones of baking spices, such as cinnamon and cloves, adding complexity. Mild sweet rose-like flavours reappear with more prominence; rose-flavored Turkish delight, and strawberry milk weave through the profile.

There is a layer of sandalwood and incense, typical of Yamazaki 12 but much more unmistakable here, along with a subtle spiciness from the Mizunara cask. I note this comes at a higher proof, but the overall tasting impression is quite friendly and accessible, even to those new to whisky.

Finish: Long and also quite characterful. A gradual warming sensation takes hold, while the finish unveils more sweet caramel and definitive notes of toasted coconut flakes that point to its Mizunara character. A mild warmth settles at the back of the throat.

My Thoughts:

This is an outstanding demonstration of good Mizunara matured whisky – successfully showcasing the sweet and complex profiles that characterize this rare and uniquely Japanese oak.

The nose is a little shy initially, but I’m happy to report that it offers a lot on the palate and finish. The evolution of flavour in the mouth over time consistently presents bold sweetness paired with delicate complexities. For those specifically seeking a Mizunara experience, this prominently showcases all of those classic characteristics, such as sandalwood, temple incense and coconut flakes,. But the most enjoyable part of it is the surprising level of jamminess and syrupy sweetness, which when paired with Mizunara notes, creates wonderful layered dimensions.

Comparing it to the Yamazaki 18 YO Mizunara cask expression released in 2017, the anniversary edition holds its own. While the 2017 version leans towards being spicy and punchy, bordering on resinous, this anniversary Mizunara expression seems better balanced and smoother. If faced with the choice between the two, the anniversary edition is the obvious pick for me.

| If you're based in Singapore, you may purchase a bottle from House of Suntory's official retailer here. 

@CharsiuCharlie