Despite being just one-tenth the size of the Champagne region of France, Franciacorta in Italy is home to over 100 sparkling wine makers. And it all started with the dream of two young winemakers.

The year was 1955. Within the time-worn walls of Palazzo Lana in the Franciacorta region of Lombardy in north Italy, Guido Berlucchi, a winemaker who inherited his estate had been crafting a still white wine of his ancestral estate. He was stumped by an issue with his wine’s shelf stability and in pursuit of guidance, he invited an oenologist named Franco Ziliani to his estate for some winemaking advice.

The two young men met and found an instant connection. Franco, brimming with youthful fervour, shared a daring proposal with the winemaker. "What if we could make sparkling wines as well as the French?" Guido furrowed his brow, intrigued by this audacious idea and leaned in closer. “Go on.”

Franco shared his vision: create a premium metodo classico sparkling wine in Franciacorta, one that could stand shoulder to shoulder with the illustrious Champagnes of France. Franco has studied the terroir of Franciacorta which he insisted was graced with a distinctive microclimate and fertile soils that provided the ideal foundation for a great sparkling wine. But there was more to it than just the climate. Beneath Guido's very home lay a labyrinth of 17th-century cellars, cool and cavernous, a legacy of his forebears who used it to age their still wines. These historic cellars were perfect for the prolonged aging on lees that such sparkling wines required.

The ancient underground cellars used by Guido's ancestors to mature still wines.

Guido, convinced by Franco’s science and captivated by his passion, gave his wholehearted endorsement. Thus, the two partnered together to run the new Guido Berlucchi Winery which would focus on making a high quality Italian sparkling of the Franciacorta region.

The early years were marked by a series of challenges and failed batches, but the men kept at it, honing their craft and refining their recipe. In 1961, their dedication culminated in the release of their first commercially successful sparkling wine, a landmark achievement that brought the Franciacorta region into renown. Then, inspired by a close friend of Guido's, they embarked on creating a sparkling Italian rosé wine that could rival the most esteemed French labels. This cuvée too, swiftly garnered acclaim, solidifying their reputation as trailblazers in the Italian wine industry.

The triumph of Berlucchi's sparkling wines resonated throughout the region, inspiring other producers to follow suit. Franciacorta became associated with premium Italian sparkling wine production thanks to the road paved by Guido and Franco. The Franciacorta DOC title was established in 1967, recognized the unique character and quality of the region's sparkling wines. Franciacorta wines were later upgraded to the prestigious DOCG status in 1995, the highest classification for Italian wines.

Now, Franciacorta isn’t exactly a very large area. It is a modest 2,000 hectares of vineyards which, to put in perspective, is about 1-10^th the size of the Champagne region – its French counterpart. But what exactly makes this corner of Italy such a hotbed for sparklers? It's all about Franciacorta's terroir that is a marriage of climate and soil that seems tailor-made for sparkling wine. Think warm, sun-drenched summer days followed by cool, breezy nights thanks to those refreshing alpine winds. This dramatic temperature swing is a viticultural sweet spot, keeping the grapes healthy, allowing for a longer ripening process while preserving that all-important acidity - a key ingredient for vibrant and balanced sparkling wines. And let's not forget those well-drained, mineral-rich soils that help grow healthy grapevines.

More magic happens in the cellar, where the metodo classico is applied. A second round of fermentation is induced right inside the bottle. After which, every single bottle of Franciacorta is aged on its less in bottles in the ancient Berlucchi cellars, adding dimension and complexity. Ageing periods range from 18 months for standard non-vintage bottlings, 24 months for rosé and satèn, 30 months for vintage-marked expressions and a whopping 60 months for the premium riserva wines.

And that’s the story of Berlucchi Winery – the pioneer of Italy’s most celebrated sparkling wine. The winery is still going strong today. After more than six decades since its inception, it's now in the capable hands of Franco Ziliani's three children: Cristina, Arturo, and Paolo who carry on their father's legacy in wines.

Speaking of which, I've just tasted a bottle of Berlucchi '61 Franciacorta Rosé chilling in this ice bucket at Angra Wine & Spirit’s tasting event. This is a blend of 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay, aged for 24 months on the lees.

Berlucchi 61 Franciacorta Rose NV – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: A burst of bright, tart berries, like a basket of freshly picked raspberries, cranberries and strawberries, followed by the sweetness of pineapple and a subtle hint of citrus zest. Touch of yeastiness and breadiness, reminiscent of warm sourdough crust, and quite a bit of savouriness with prominent notes of briny ham, oysters and sea spray.

Palate: Complex yet refreshing, with a gentle sweetness that unfolds with fine effervesce. Opens with a burst of crisp apple juice followed by a subtle brininess that lingers on the mid-palate along with a touch of minerality and a light, clean metallic note. There’s also a beautifully balanced acidity that provides a backbone to the palate.

Finish: Remarkably clean and short, leaving behind a lingering impression of minerality and a hint of yeasty complexity.

My Thoughts:

A nicely balanced and approachable sparkling wine, offering a moderate level of complexity and depth. This one is ready to drink now with such balanced acidity and a pleasant level of sweetness. I think the nose was a bit more layered and impressive than the palate, and perhaps a touch more definition and fruitiness on the palate would have elevated it further, but this is already a delightful and well-crafted sparkling rosé.

@CharsiuCharlie