Ever heard of aspirational marketing? It's like when a brand dangles a shiny carrot—a fancy product out of reach to the average consumer. Think Hermès’ Birkin bags or a top of the line Audi R8 that are priced astronomically. These coveted, unattainable products solidify a brand’s position in the luxury market. And yet Hermès and Audi also offer a range of beautifully crafted leather products and more affordable road cars more accessible to a wider audience. The consumer’s aspiration is cleverly harnessed to sell more reasonably priced product lines, allowing them to partake in the brand's allure, if not its most exclusive offerings.

Aspirational marketing also applies to the wine and spirits industry. In China, there’s perhaps no wine brand more well-known than the revered Château Lafite Rothschild.

This Bordeaux first-growth holds such an esteemed position in modern Chinese culture that even for non-wine lovers, it's synonymous with luxury and success. It’s a status symbol dropped casually in conversation by A-list celebrities like Zhang Ziyi (basically the Beyoncé of China). The name "Lafite" itself even graces luxury apartment complexes and restaurants on the streets of Shanghai.

An extraordinarily rare Lafite Rothschild 1959 at an auction in Hong Kong.

Here’s where Shandong Province’s Domaine de Long Dai comes in. Recognising the aspirational fevour of Lafite in China, the owners Domaines de Barons de Rothschild (DBR) set out to create a high quality winery that would tap into the Chinese dream. They saw how much China loved Lafite, but they wanted to create something more than just another pricey wine. They wanted a wine that was made like a Lafite, but made using Chinese terroir by a mostly Chinese team.

Finding a New Bordeaux in China

So, back in the late 2000s, when the Chinese wine market was booming, DBR started scouting for a spot to build a winery in China.

The cool temperate region of Ningxia in the central-north of China, often called the "Bordeaux of China" as many wine producers were already present, seemed like the obvious choice. But Baron Eric de Rothschild, the then Chairman and owner of DBR wasn't so sure. Ningxia gets incredibly cold winters that plunge as low as -25°C, and the vines have to be buried underground to protect them from the frost. While vineyards could survive for a couple of years, their old roots eventually crumble under the soil they’re buried in once they reach 20+ years of age. If old vines are indeed the key to producing exceptional wines, as many experts believe, then the practice of burying vines might inadvertently impose a ceiling on the quality that can be achieved in Ningxia.

The moderately warm climate of Shandong was preferred by DBR Lafite over the dry and frigid north of China (Source: Richard Haughton)

Seeking a more moderate climate, DBR eventually found their sweet spot in the Shandong region, on China's east coast. The climate there is warm and moderate, perfect for ripening all kinds of grapes, including the essential Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabrenet Franc, Merlot, and Marselan – a robust variety very popular with Chinese drinkers. Shandong also has a long history of winemaking, which sealed the deal for Baron Eric.

Within Shandong, the estate was founded in Qiu Shan Valley, a gorgeous spot nestled in the mountains. The soil there is mostly granite, ideal for growing top-notch grapes. But the mountains also made things tricky. Agriculturists – including apple and peach growers – have to build a bunch of terraces to prevent erosion and keep water in the soil. It was a ton of work, but it had to be done to preserve the sandy granitic soil of the area.

The Shandong Vineyard

Long Dai's terraced vineyards are a sight to behold, over 450 individual plots spread across 35 hectares. To figure out which grapes to plant where, the team dug over 400 pits to analyze the soil in different parts of the valley. Talk about dedication!

The result is a vineyard planted with a mix of grapes, including Cabernet Sauvignon (38%), Marselan (25%), Merlot (15%), Cabernet Franc (13%), and a few others. The sandy and granitic soil gives the vines just the right amount of vigour. Vigour refers to the growth rate and productivity of the vines, and moderate vigour is often considered ideal, as it allows for a balance between yield, quality, intense flavours and balanced acidity.

DBR's Chairwoman Saskia de Rothschild tasting some Long Dai (Source: Richard Haughton)

The Wines of Long Dai

Recently, Charles Treutenaere, the General Manager of Long Dai travelled to Singapore to lead a wine masterclass, offering a rare opportunity to taste the fruits of their labour. I was fortunate enough to attend this masterclass, where I had the pleasure of hearing about how wine is made at Long Dai and sampling four wines from the Long Dai portfolio: the 2019 and 2020 vintages of Long Dai itself, as well as the 2019 and 2020 vintages of its second wine, Hu Yue.

In addition to the Shandong terroir, winemaking at Long Dai of course taps into its renowned Pauillac wine making expertise. The estate is managed by Charles of course, and a mostly Chinese team that studied winemaking in France, composed of Technical Manager Zhang Peng, Vineyard Manager Shao Li Ying, and Cellar Master Liang Chen. Together, they strive to create wines that express the unique character of the Qiu Shan Valley while using a process closely mirroring the practices employed at Château Lafite.

The winery is equipped with state-of-the-art equipment imported from France, including sorting tables, crushers, and destemmers, ensuring that the grapes are handled with the utmost care. The harvest typically begins in mid-September, slightly later than in Pauillac due to the region's unique climate. Fermentation and maceration last between 20 and 25 days, allowing the flavours and aromas of the grapes to develop fully. Malolactic fermentation, a process that softens the acidity of the wine, takes place in stainless steel tanks.

The wines are then aged in a combination of steel tanks and oak barrels sourced from DBR's own cooperage in Pauillac. This ageing process allows the wines to mature gracefully, developing complexity and depth while retaining their vibrant fruit character.

While the wines we’re tasting have been bottle-aged for about 4 to 5 years, according to Charles, Long Dai’s goal is to create wines capable of aging well for over ten years.

The final blending of Long Dai takes place in France during Christmas week, a tradition that allows the French members of the team, including Charles Treutenaere, to return home for the holidays. Blending decisions are made by a Pauillac-based tasting panel that includes Charles himself and DBR’s proprietor Saskia de Rothschild, who recently succeeded her father as chairwoman of DBR. This collaborative approach ensures that every vintage of Long Dai reflects the collective expertise and vision of the entire team.

Given how new the estate is, production is still fairly modest. For instance, only 2,500 cases of the Long Dai 2017 was sold, compared to 16,000-odd cases produced by Château Lafite in Bordeaux per year. It’s all part of the plan of course – the estate has a long term plan for gradual expansion in its production.

Let’s give this Chinese Lafite a taste shall we?

Hu Yue 2019 – Review

We first began with a taste of the Hu Yue 2019. Taking after Bordeaux wine making tradition of having a grand vin and second vin, the Hu Yue is the estate’s second label. According to Charles, the Hu Yue is generally aged for about 12 to 18 months in barrels produced by the DBR Lafite cooperage.

The 2019 vintage is the second edition of the Hu Yue, which was first released in 2018. This was made with mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (57%), Marselan (17%), Syrah (15%) and Cabernet Franc (11%).

Tasting Notes

Nose: Right off the bat it’s super expressive. Tons of jamminess in the glass, practically oozing ripe red currants and cherries. A whiff of tobacco leaf and cedar add a subtle complexity, followed by a spicy kick of ginger, mint, liquorice, and pepper. It’s a powerfully fruity nose that hints at the warmth of a hot season in Shandong.

Palate: The initial burst of fruitiness settles into a fresh, almost juicy sweetness. It's surprisingly balanced despite the nose's boldness, with velvety tannins that glide across the tongue. Red fruit flavours dominate, but there's a hint of tobacco leaf lingering in the background. The texture is slightly viscous, coating the mouth with a pleasant warmth.

Finish: Long and lingering, with a touch of chalkiness and a whisper of cocoa powder. It fades slowly, leaving a subtle warmth on the tongue.

My Thoughts

From my first impression, I felt this is really balanced. The flavours are well-integrated, and the wine feels quite balanced. However, it's on the palate where its youthfulness shines through, with slightly muddled aromatics that hint at its potential for further development. There’s a touch of tertiary notes too with some earthiness here that adds to the complexity.

Overall, the Hu Yue 2019 is a fascinating wine that showcases the potential of Chinese winemaking. It's not without its quirks, but its balance and smooth tannins make it an enjoyable and thought-provoking wine.

Hu Yue 2020 – Review

Next up, we have the Hu Yue once again from the following vintage. This is made with Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Cabernet Franc (21%), Marselan (12%), Syrah (8%) and Merlot (6%).

Tasting Notes

Nose: The fruitiness is still there, but it's more reserved, holding back a bit. Instead, the first impression is one of green, almost medicinal herbs – rosemary and pine needles – intertwined with the familiar scent of liquorice. Red fruits, cherries and currants, peek through, but they're not the stars of this show. It's a more austere nose, hinting at a cooler growing season.

Palate: The austerity continues on the palate. It's still fresh and lightly fruity, but with a pronounced herbal character. Pine needles, black pepper, and a touch of anise mingle with dark cherries, creating a unique flavour profile reminiscent of a black forest cake infused with Christmas spices. The tannins are soft and well-rounded, and there's a subtle hint of oak that adds a layer of complexity.

Finish: Moderately long, leaving a gentle warmth on the tongue and a delicate note of toasted almonds. It fades slowly.

My Thoughts

This wine is balanced, no doubt, with smooth tannins and a well-integrated structure. However, with its rather prominent herbal character and austerity, this might not be for everyone. Personally, I found it a bit too pronounced, with this herbaceousness overshadowing the fruit and spice notes. Compared to the 2019, which showed a touch of age and a hint of sweetness, this feels more straightforward and linear.

Overall, this vintage is really distinctive. Taken with the 2019 vintage, this pair is a really interesting conversation starter about the impact of hotter and cooler seasons on the flavour of wine.

Long Dai 2019 – Review

Next up, we move to the grand vin, beginning with the Long Dai 2019. This vintage is a blend of mainly Cabernet Sauvignon (85%), Cabernet Franc (9%) and Marselan (6%), and aged for 18 months in French oak barrels produced by the DBR Lafite cooperage.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Much more intense off the bat. The aroma is deep and rich, overflowing with blackcurrants, blueberries, and plump, juicy plums. A hint of raspberry sweetness dances through the darker fruit notes. But there's more to discover beneath the surface: a subtle cedar aroma weaves through the fruit, followed by a faint whisper of old books, like the dusty air of a quaint library in an old English university or something.

Palate: That initial density unfolds into a rather complex tapestry. Blackberries and black cherries mingle with the semisweet allure of dark chocolate shavings. It's a full-bodied wine, with a satisfying luscious texture that coats the tongue. But despite the generous fruit, it never veers into cloying sweetness. The tannins are remarkably smooth and elegant, providing lots of structure without overwhelming the palate.

Finish: Long and persistent, leaving behind a lingering warmth and a touch of oak spice. There's a hint of chocolate, too, adding to the wine's luxurious feel. The fruit lingers on the tongue, slowly fading into a gentle warmth.

My Thoughts

My impression is one of profound balance and complexity. This particular wine is clearly built for long haul aging, with robust tannins that suggest a promising future in the cellar. It's everything you'd expect from a classic Bordeaux Cabernet Sauvignon: a robust backbone of fruit and structure, tempered by elegance and finesse. With a few more years of ageing – GM Charles recommends 10 years at least – I suspect those already impressive tannins will soften further, and the wine would revealing even more layers of complexity.

Long Dai 2020 – Review

Finally, we have the Long Dai 2020. This vintage is a blend of a comparatively lower amount of Cabernet Sauvignon (56%), Cabernet Franc (24%) and Marselan (20%).

Tasting Notes

Nose: Lots of vibrance, with a beautiful blend of blackcurrants and blackberries, punctuated by a symphony of spices. Cassia root and anise take centre stage, while a subtle hint of sarsaparilla adds an intriguing twist. It's a sweeter, more playful aroma than the Long Dai 2019.

Palate: Fruitiness explodes into a symphony of flavours. Luscious blackcurrants and blackberries intertwine with a burst of red fruit – raspberries and strawberries – creating a jammy, almost decadent sweetness. The tannins are remarkably delicate, like velvet against the tongue, while a gentle touch of toasted nuts adds a subtle tertiary note complexity.

Finish: Long and really spiced. Cassia and anise continue their harmonious dance, while a whisper of ash and peanut skins adds a grounding earthiness.

My Thoughts

A crowd pleaser. This one’s a lot more playful than the Long Dai 2019. It leans towards more fruitiness and has less structure, perhaps reflecting the significantly lower proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon. Tannins are much, much softer and muted here, and there’s a greater emphasis on fruit. That’s why I think this one would appear to a wider audience, especially younger wine drinkers who enjoy a touch of sweetness in their reds.

That said, compared to the 2019's robust structure and complexity, stemming from its higher Cabernet Sauvignon content, this feels a bit more straightforward and linear.

On the whole, though, while it may lack the depth and complexity of the 2019, it does showcase the versatility of Chinese winemaking in more challenging seasons.

Overall Thoughts

Overall, my experience with Domaine de Long Dai's wines was incredibly promising. While they're already impressive, it's clear these wines haven't quite hit their stride yet. They appear to be holding back, hinting at a deeper complexity just waiting to emerge. This is especially true for the my favourite of the quartet- the 2019 vintage Long Dai, whose structure and tannins scream for another decade in the cellar.

While the Hu Yue wines may not be the stars of the show, they too, offer a glimpse into the estate's potential, particularly the 2019 with its intriguing complexity and evolving aromatics with a touch of luscious fruit.

It’s been a fascinating look into the potential of Chinese winemaking which we can only expect to become more impressive and prominent in the decade to come. While Long Dai may not yet be at the pinnacle of its potential, it's clear that it's on a trajectory towards greatness. It will be exciting to revisit these wines in a few years and see how they've blossomed with time.

@CharsiuCharlie