Château Ducru-Beaucaillou. The name rolls off the tongue like a fine Bordeaux down the throat, doesn’t it?

Although Château Lafite and the like have been the rockstars of Bordeaux's Premier Cru, Beaucaillou has for many decades been an unsung hero of Bordeaux. The winery is often considered to be the benchmark of elegance and finesse amongst wines of the Saint-Julien appellation and has a reputation for unwavering quality while regularly punching above its weight at wine competitions.

It was officially classified as a Second Growth Bordeaux wine in 1855, but its consistently high quality and global cult following since the 1990s has led many critics to argue that Beaucaillou deserves to be reclassified as a Premier Cru.

The story begins sometime in the 18th century when the estate, originally known as just Château Beaucaillou, was founded – the name being derived from the pebbles in the estate’s soil (“beaux cailloux” means “beautiful pebbles”). Bertrand Ducru, a visionary winemaker, acquired the estate and was the first individual to significantly improve the quality of the estate’s wines by implementing better vineyard management practices and investing in equipment and infrastructure. The estate was renamed to Château Ducru-Beaucaillou under Bertrand’s ownership.

Thanks in large part to the hard work of Bertrand Ducru, Château Ducru-Beaucaillou was officially recognized as a Second Growth winery under the prestigious 1855 Classification. Unfortunately, within 10 years of receiving this prestigious accolade, Bertrand ran into financial difficulty and was forced to sell his prized estate. The Johnston family purchased the estate in 1866 and maintained the estate's high standards for a time. However, yet another spell of financial hardship befell these owners during the Great Depression, leading to several rounds of ownership changes. Eventually, the Ducru-Beaucaillou estate was received in a state disrepair of by the Borie family who breathed new life into it.

The Bories invested heavily in renovations, modernizing the winery and expanding the vineyards with the acquisition of a significant parcel of land from neighbouring Château Lagrange. Since 2003, Bruno Borie, the current owner and manager, has taken the reins, continuing the family tradition of producing wines that are not only exceptional but also expressive of their unique terroir.

Bruno Borie and his vision

Bruno Borie is regarded as something of a guru in the French drinks industry. 

Now, the Borie family, with their business acumen and passion for wine, have proven to be excellent stewards of Ducru-Beaucaillou so far. But it's Bruno Borie, the charismatic and visionary leader, who embodies the family's spirit of innovation and entrepreneurship in the 21^st century. With his infectious enthusiasm and keen eye for opportunity, Borie has not only elevated Ducru-Beaucaillou to new heights but has also made a significant impact on the wider French drinks industry.

It’s worth noting that before taking the helm at Ducru-Beaucaillou, Bruno already demonstrated his marketing prowess by revitalizing the now-ubiquitous Lillet, a French apéritif wine that had fallen out of favour since the 1980s. Under Bruno, the Lillet brand engaged in product development and strategic marketing campaigns that helped to rejuvenate its image from a dusty relic of yesteryear into a trendy and sought-after liqueur at the bar.

The most notable achievement of Bruno’s is probably his successful product placement of Lillet in two James Bond films – "Casino Royale" and "Quantum of Solace," a brilliant opportunity that not only boosted brand awareness but also associated the Lillet brand with the fictional British superspy who apparently is fond of having Lillet added to his martinis. Needless to say, people began ordering James Bond's favourite “Vesper Martinis” at bars which in turn began stocking up on the French liqueur – sales went “brrrr”.

This fantastic resurgence culminated in a profitable sale of Lillet to Pernod Ricard in 2008 – a testament to Borie's Midas’ touch with drinks brands.

With this impressive track record, Bruno brought his entrepreneurial spirit and marketing savvy to Ducru-Beaucaillou, where he has continued to push boundaries and challenge conventions. He set out on a mission to challenge the idea that Bordeaux second wines are second-rate items bought by consumer who could not afford the first wines.

And so, he enlisted British jewelry designer Jade Jagger (who happens to be the daughter of the legendary Rolling Stones’ Mick Jagger) to design the ornate label of a limited edition 2010 Croix de Beaucaillou that came in a Melchior size. This bottle went on auction in China and fetched €10,000, proving Bruno’s instincts right.

But it's not just Borie's business acumen that sets him apart. He's also a firm believer in protecting the estate’s terroir and a passionate advocate for sustainable viticulture.

The terroir of Ducru-Beaucaillou

Speaking of terroir, Ducru-Beaucaillou boasts one of the most enviable locations in all of Bordeaux.

Nestled in the heart of the Saint-Julien appellation on the Left Bank, the estate's vineyards are blessed with a unique combination of gravelly soil, mild maritime climate, and proximity to the Gironde Estuary. These gravelly soils are highly well-draining, thus providingexcellent conditions for the all important Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot and also impart a unique minerality to the wines, a signature characteristic of Ducru-Beaucaillou that wine enthusiasts have come to cherish.

The estate’s proximity to a large body of water also provide a sort of temperature regulator that moderates extremes, thus ensuring a long and slow growing season. This phenomenon was clearly demonstrated in a severe frost event in 1991 when many neighbouring estates in Saint-Julien lost up to 70% of their grapes to the frost, while Ducru-Beaucaillou was, impressively, able to cap its losses at below 30%. Grapes are thus allowed to ripen fully, developing complex flavours, aromas and longevity. In essence, the terroir of Ducru-Beaucaillou strikes a delicate balancing act across its soil, climate, and vine contitions to produce wines of exceptional quality.

The three main wines at Ducru-Beaucaillou

The Château produces 3 wine labels. The grand vin is simply labelled Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, while the second wine is labelled La Croix de Beaucaillou. These wines are described to offer full-bodied notes, firm tannins with concentrated flavours of ripe fruit, well-integrated oak and minerality with excellent aging potential, while showing a harmonious balance between intensity and finesse.

The third wine – which we’re tasting today, is called Le Petit Caillou which is made from younger vines that showcase the estate’s character and finesse at a younger age, typically blending the classic Bordeaux varietals such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and sometimes small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

While it may not receive the same level of critical acclaim as its more prestigious counterparts, Le Petit Caillou has garnered quite a few positive reviews. So let’s give this a taste.

Château Ducru-Beaucaillou, ‘Le Petit Caillou’ Saint-Julien, 2016 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: This vintage seems a little shy. It’s very dense but I get indistinct black fruits – dark cherries and blackberries veiled in a shroud of earthiness. The frutiness seems a little bit held back – almost feels austere in its first impression.

Palate: Complex, and interest mostly woven with savoury threads rather than sweetness. It’s got a satisfying richness, the earthiness grounding the experience. Tannins, moderately firm and slightly gritty, weave through the core of black fruits, leather, tobacco, and oak. Not terribly sweet.

Finish: It lingers, revealing a touch of liquorice, baking spices, and a subtle hint of sarsaparilla root. The flavours gradually fade into the background.

My Thoughts:

It is a solid and affordable Saint-Julien for sure. The oak and black fruits are prominent, while the tannins, though present, remain approachable. It's a drier red wine that has quite some depth. It’s one for those who appreciate a less fruit-forward style, favouring density, earthiness and structure over overt sweetness.

And yes, there's a hint of that Saint-Julien elegance—a multi-layered complexity that unfolds in the tongue over time. It may not be the loudest voice in the room, but Le Petit Caillou 2016 holds its own with quiet confidence.

My Rating: 80/100

@CharsiuCharlie