Great Champagne exists within a Yin and Yang; two seemingly opposing forces that are each essential, incomplete without the other. On one side, there’s the pursuit of fruit freshness achieved through protective winemaking. Here, the aim is to shield the fresh fruit notes from excessive oxygen, preserving its brightness and crystalline character. This means carefully controlled fermentations, minimal handling and airtight environments that lock in the wine’s most delicate fruit qualities.

On the other side lies careful oxidation. This allows the wine's structure to evolve and mature, yielding nuanced aromas and deeper layers of flavour. Extended lees ageing and oak further transforms fleeting fruit notes into something richer, more profound, more complex. This is where the wine gains its gravitas, its story, its ability to linger on the palate and in the memory.

Achieving this precise tension between freshness and complexity demands a certain sensitivity, an intuitive understanding of the wine's needs at every stage of its development. It's about knowing when to intervene and when to let nature take its course. And many Champagne critics and sommeliers would agree that Champagne Egly-Ouriet is one of the best exemplars of this harmony.

Egly-Ouriet is often classified within the same tier as fellow grower-producer Jacques Selosse as leaders of the movement (Source: Los Angeles Times)

Egly-Ouriet (ay-glee oo-ray) is often mentioned in the same breath as fellow producer Jacques Selosse, and for good reason. Both are pioneers of the récoltant-manipulant – or grower Champagne – movement that challenged the long-held dominance of the established Grandes Marques, the big houses like Moët & Chandon, Krug, and Louis Roederer, whose blended, multi-vineyard wines had long defined the popular image of Champagne.

Unlike these large houses, grower-producers focus on creating Champagnes reflective of its terroir. Selosse was the first of its class to truly capture the world's attention and revolutionise grower Champagne with its intense Chardonnay-dominant expressions that explore an unconventional oxidative approach to maturation. However, the turning point arguably arrived in the 1980s when Egly-Ouriet began producing its powerful yet structured Pinot Noir-forward Champagnes regarded to directly compete with the prestige cuvées of the Grandes Marques.

(Source: Mise en abyme Wine Blog)

Based in Ambonnay, Egly-Ouriet traces its roots back to the 1930s when the family’s focus was primarily on grape cultivation, selling their harvest to the large négociant houses that dominated the Champagne landscape. The family began with a mere three hectares of vines in the prestigious Grand Cru village of Ambonnay, in the heart of the Montagne de Reims which sees south-facing slopes and chalky soils that provide ideal conditions for Pinot Noir. This modest holding gradually expanded over generations to the current 14-odd hectares, with a remarkable 10 hectares classified as Grand Cru. Among these prized parcels is the famed Les Crayères vineyard, sealed by a marriage to the Ouriet family. Old vines planted here over 60 years ago contribute to the wines’ depth and complexity.

It was under Francis Egly, the fourth-generation owner, who took the helm in 1982, that Egly-Ouriet truly ascended to prominence. Francis ceased the practice of selling grapes to négociants and shifted the domaine’s focus to 100% estate bottling, a move that allowed him to control every aspect of the winemaking process, from vineyard to bottle. The house is regarded as having the finest Pinot Noir sites in Champagne, with an average vine age of 40 years.

Fourth generation owner Francis Egly with his daughter, Clémence, oversee production at the House today.

This unwavering focus on Pinot Noir, the backbone of many prestige cuvées like Krug Vintage, Bollinger La Grande Année, Cristal, and Dom Pérignon, allowed Egly-Ouriet to compete directly with the most prestigious names in Champagne in a way that other grower producers have never done so. In fact, two of the most iconic Pinot Noir vineyards in all of Champagne are owned by Egly-Ouriet: Les Crayères and Clos d’Ambonnay. This directly challenges single-vineyard Champagnes like Krug’s Clos d’Ambonnay and Bollinger’s Vieilles Vignes Françaises, wines that have set the standard for Blanc de Noirs and Pinot Noir-based Champagne.

In the vineyard, Francis’s approach is unconventional – he seeks to harvest very ripe grapes by harvesting the grapes much later than most producers in the region, a practice that is quite unusual in Champagne, where the focus had always been on preserving acidity. Francis has also embraced organic and biodynamic practices in his vineyards, eschewing chemical fertilisers, herbicides, pesticides, and other chemicals, opting instead for regular ploughing and natural methods to enhance soil health and vine vitality. Yields are dramatically controlled, further concentrating the flavours in the grapes.

After being hand-harvested at peak ripeness, the grapes are swiftly transported to the cellar, where they are gently pressed whole-cluster in a refrigerated press, ensuring only the precious first-run juice is used for the wines. The cellar is specially designed with multiple levels, allowing for gravity-fed movement of must and wine, minimising harsh handling and preserving the delicate nuances of the fruit. Fermentation then occurs in either tank or French oak barrels, using only indigenous yeasts, those naturally present on the grapes and in the cellar.

Here in the cellar, Egly-Ouriet's maturation philosophy diverges from that of Jacques Selosse. Selosse famously champions a bold oxidative style, employing long barrel ageing and deliberate oxidation to create Champagnes with intense, nutty, almost sherry-like flavours. This approach, while loved by some critics and collectors for its boldness and intensity, has also polarised opinion. Some find it too opulent for Champagne, preferring the fresher, more classically aged styles.

Egly-Ouriet, while embracing richness and oak fermentation, avoids the overt oxidative character of Selosse's wines. Notably, the winery eschews malolactic fermentation, a process that converts harsh malic acid to softer lactic acid. Instead, Egly-Ouriet dramatically extends lees ageing, maturing most of its wines on the lees in oak barrels sourced from the renowned Burgundian cooper Dominique Laurent for extended periods – sometimes up to a decade. This extended lees and oak contact provides richness, depth and structure while preserving the freshness of the fruit. The wines have thus been described as possessing a Krug-like structure without the oxidative intensity, a style that could be seen as a more traditional evolution of Selosse’s approach, creating rich yet fresh Champagnes that appeal to a broader audience.

Francis takes other measures to allow the natural characteristics of the fruit and terroir to come through. Dosage is kept very low – seldom more than 2-5 grams/L – in comparison, Dom Perignon and Moët & Chandon expressions typically come in at about 4-6 grams/L. Francis also likes to develop individual parcels separately. Finally, the wines are neither fined nor filtered to preserve their natural character and texture.

When discussing Egly-Ouriet’s expressions, the words power, intensity, and purity of fruit invariably arise. Two sparkling wines stand out from its range. First, Egly-Ouriet crafts some of the most compelling Blanc de Noirs in the region, emblematic of the house style with its depth and power of fruit, yet possessing a pillowy mousse, layered texture and intensity of chalky freshness that resonates throughout the tasting experience. Another iconic wine from the estate is the Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV, now simply called the Grand Cru Brut NV (which we shall taste test in a moment!).

While designated as a non-vintage expression, critics tend to find this wine far from ordinary. Comprising 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards, predominantly the prestigious Ambonnay, it represents quality so exceptional that it puts to shame many other prestige cuvées at significantly higher price points. Assuming that Francis Egly had produced just this Grand Cru Brut NV, he would arguably still be considered one of the region's superstars.

In addition to its sparkling wines, Egly-Ouriet also produces what is indisputably the most revered of Coteaux Champenois – red still wines – in all of Champagne. Their Coteaux Champenois Ambonnay Rouge is an incredibly complex Pinot Noir that evokes comparisons to the best of Burgundian reds, a testament to the exceptional ripeness achieved in these grapes with remarkable aging potential. Unfortunately, these still wines are incredibly difficult to obtain due to the extremely limited quantities produced.

Speaking of limited quantities, quality over quantity is a genuine observation at a grower producers like Egly-Ouriet. The production volume is only around 100,000 bottles annually, a stark contrast to the multi-million bottle production of the Grandes Marque houses.

Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Champagne NV (also known as the Brut Tradition) – Review

Tonight, we’re fortunate enough to sample the Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut NV at Convivial Champagne Bar in Singapore. It’s such a rare treat to find this exceptional Champagne on house pour.

As mentioned, this expression is a blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, all sourced exclusively from Grand Cru vineyards, with a strong emphasis on the prestigious village of Ambonnay. Natural fermentation only uses wild yeasts before the first period of maturation in oak on fine lees takes place over nearly a year. The wine naturally clears slowly over time, so fining or filtration could be avoided to preserve the delicate nuances and textures for a more authentic expression of the terroir. Over 50% of the wine is fermented and aged in oak casks. Finally, the bottle sees a very low dosage even for an Extra Brut, with approximately 3 g/L.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Complex and compelling. Ripe and generous yellow orchard fruits and dominant apricots take the lead, accompanied by a subtle dryness akin to citrus peel. A hint of yeast sweetness is present, along with the rich bready notes of brioche. Prominent chalky minerality underlies these aromas, adding a light, sweet mineral note. There's a touch of something bucolic, reminiscent of the countryside, alongside a light barley sweetness. A very delicate nuttiness emerges, along with a hint of caramel and a faint waxy note from a freshly snuffed candle.

Palate: Full-bodied and very rich from the get go, with a well-structured entry. Juicy, fleshy apricots are prominent, balanced by a well-calibrated acidity that gracefully dissipates. The texture is incredibly pillowy, with a fluffy fine mousse. Fleshy fruit notes persist, complimented by prominent slate-like minerality that quickly emerges in the mid-palate. Light spices also develop on the palate, accompanied by a slightly musty note.

Finish: Of medium length, with a lingering trail of apricot flavour. A subtle zinginess remains at the back of the throat.

My Thoughts:

This is incredibly compelling and one of the richest NV Champagne I’ve tried. It leans towards the richer side of the spectrum, rather than being on the austere sour or dry side. The beautiful aromatic profile is so enticing, with its somewhat exotic notes of apricot and spice. The palate is impressively rich, showcasing fleshy fruits in high definition. Tons of tertiary notes too with that slight musty note and some nuttiness that adds an impressive layer of complexity.

This is such a skilful interplay between the rich, mature depths of stone fruit and the remarkable vibrancy of citrus and a touch of minerality. It really gives many prestige cuvées a run for their money. The sheer quality and depth of flavour, the precise and calibrate acidity would wow you considering it's a very affordable non-vintage. This really makes you question the value proposition of some of the more hyped prestige cuvées on the market that require tons of further cellar aging to offer something of comparable depth.

If any still wine lover tells you they don't like Champagne, definitely make them sample the Egly-Ouriet NV before writing it off.

@CharsiuCharlie