One of Burgundy's oldest vineyards is currently owned by the luxury goods group, LVMH.

While Domaine des Lambrays as we are familiar with today is a relative newcomer being officially established in 1979, it traces its origin to a 14th-century vineyard in the heart of Morey-Saint-Denis, the Clos des Lambrays, which it currently owns.

This parcel of land has seen a turbulent history through the centuries: monastic ownership, post-Revolution fragmentation, neglect and rebirth. Yet, almost no other vineyard could claim a similarly long historical thread than the Clos des Lambrays, whose identity has endured for over seven and a half centuries. In fact, walking along the limestone paths by the clos, you would find a milestone that stands by the village well to commemorate the clos’s founding in 1365. 

The vineyard was once part of the vast holdings of a Cistercian monastic abbey and was tended by monks, before it was confiscated during the French Revolution. By the late 19th century, after the French Revolution’s chaos (during which Lambrays was broken into over 70 plots and owners), the Rodier family painstakingly reassembled the vineyard. By the 1930s Burgundy classification, Clos des Lambrays was ranked as a Premier Cru. According to Burgundy wine expert Jasper Morris MW, this was simply because the family did not apply for Grand Cru status for the fear it would increase their tax burden – a not uncommon story in Burgundy.

If one drinks Clos des Lambrays from the interwar period—say, 1923, 1934, 1937, or just after the war in 1945—one would find utterly stunning wines, according to Jasper. Those are some of the greatest bottles he has ever tasted. However, Jasper observed that once you get into the 1950s, ’60s and ’70s, quality clearly declines. The owner was not looking after the vineyards properly during that period, and did not have a capable winemaker, and the wines suffered as a result.

The vineyard continued to languish under a former owner until 1979, when a group led by the Saier brothers (Roland de Chambure and Fabien and Louis Saier) purchased Clos des Lambrays – reportedly for a song, as Burgundy vineyards then were nothing like today’s value. The Saiers founded Domaine des Lambrays and immediately installed Thierry Brouin as winemaker and régisseur (estate manager). The turnaround bore fruit quickly: in 1981, Clos des Lambrays was upgraded to Grand Cru status.

The path to prominence was not without hiccups. With global economic downturns and fluctuating markets in the late 1980s and early 1990s, the wines of Domaine des Lambrays remained difficult to sell at high margins. The Saier brothers struggled to balance the scale of their initial investment with ongoing operational expenses, and by 1992, the domaine faced severe liquidity issues and was near bankruptcy. The estate was thus sold to a wealthy German industrialist, Günter Freund, who could continue investing in the property.

Unfortunately, Freund’s instructions to Thierry did not help to elevate the estate’s potential. He told Thierry to produce nice and drinkable wine that could be sold at an affordable price. Critics, including Jasper, felt that this limited the estate’s potential as the wines did not challenge the very best in Burgundy. Even so, the Domaine’s trajectory was firmly upward – a once dilapidated property was steadily making its way up towards Burgundy’s respected producers.

After Freund passed away, as no heirs were interested in taking over, the estate was purchased by luxury giant LVMH in 2014. The group’s investment transformed the estate, from viticulture to winemaking, while vowing to preserve the best of the estate's original spirit by keeping Thierry Brouin on. By the end of the 2010s, critics widely acknowledged Domaine des Lambrays as one of Burgundy’s top producers, fully realising the potential of its great terroir. Jasper praised the recent vintages to be “absolutely stunning”.

Clos des Lambrays today totals 8.84 hectares, of which Domaine des Lambrays owns all but a tiny 0.18 ha sliver (held by a neighbour, Domaine Taupenot-Merme). Thus, while not technically a monopole, it nearly is.

Viticulture and Winemaking Practices

Unlike some grands crus that are homogeneous, Clos des Lambrays’ diversity within its 8.8 hectares is a strength. The clos is the steepest of Morey-Saint-Denis’s Grand Cru vineyards, climbing from about 250m to nearly 370m altitude – a significant gradient that overlooks the adjacent Clos de Tart (which has recently become a rival, as we will soon discuss below). The slopes undulate with varying exposures and soil types – with the named sub-plots of Meix Rentier at the base, Les Larrets (Larrey) on the mid-slope and Les Bouchots toward the top. These sectors, with their varying exposures and soils (richer clay at the bottom, stonier limestone up high) mean different vine parcels ripen at different times, lending complexity to the final wine.

In terms of viticulture and winemaking, the domaine is known for picking relatively early – aiming for freshness – and for fermenting the Pinot Noir with a high proportion of whole clusters (often 100% stems in earlier vintages). That being said, the domaine uses a less extractive touch, prioritising elegance over sheer power. This approach, combined with moderate new oak (around 50%) and long élevage, yielded wines with structure and spicy aromatics that rewarded patience. 

Winemaker Jacques Devauges stewards the domaine today.   

Since the LVMH takeover, further changes have occurred at the margins. The newest régisseur, Jacques Devauges, brought a Burgundian “parcellaire” approach – vinifying the 11 different sub-parcels of Clos des Lambrays separately to fine-tune the blend. He also converted the estate to organic and biodynamic farming. In the cellar, Devauges adjusted the oak regimen and stem usage. While still using whole bunches, he meticulously tailors the percentage to each parcel and vintage.

The domaine's crown jewel, Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru, is described to have robust structure and dark fruit, but also a certain aromatic perfume and finesse; a yin-yang of strength and delicacy that showcases Morey-Saint-Denis – combining Gevrey-Chambertin’s savoury depth with Chambolle-Musigny’s floral grace. This is the wine we're sampling today along with Burgundy expert Jasper Morris MW.

The domaine also produces a small range of wines of other younger vines or of Morey village-level appellation typically harvested from the top of the slop on cooler limestone-rich soils. This gives an atypical village wine – one with extra brightness and structure. The domaine also produces wine wines from two tiny holdings in Puligny-Montrachet – Clos du Cailleret (0.37 ha) and Folatières (0.29 ha) to produce classic Puligny - although this comes up to just around 4% of its total production.

More recently, the domaine purchased 0.45 ha of prime Vosne-Romanée premier cru vines in Les Beaux Monts, although due to an existing sharecropping agreement, the domaine would not commercialise the wine until after 2030.

Arnault vs. Pinault, Lambrays vs. Tart

An intriguing subplot to Domaine des Lambrays’ modern story is the corporate rivalry it became entangled in.

Many might be familiar with the famous rivalry between Bernard Arnault of LVMH and François Pinault of Kering, the luxury conglomerate behind Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, and Balenciaga. The two titans have a history of clashing over major acquisitions, notably the fierce Gucci takeover war in the late 1990s, where Arnault sought control of Gucci but was ultimately outmanoeuvred by Pinault.

In recent decades, this rivalry has extended from fashion into fine wines, with both Arnault and Pinault building impressive portfolios of prestigious vineyards. Arnault’s acquisitions include Château Cheval Blanc and Domaine des Lambrays, while Pinault counters with ownership of Château Latour.

Interestingly, shortly after Arnault's acquisition of Clos des Lambrays in 2014, Pinault responded by purchasing Clos de Tart in 2017—a similarly prestigious Grand Cru site located right next door to Clos des Lambrays. This move fuelled speculation of an escalating "Burgundy wine war" that brought the LVMH-Kering rivalry into Morey-Saint-Denis.

With this fascinating story out of the way, let's turn to the wine we're tasting!

2015 Domaine des Lambrays, Clos des Lambrays, Grand Cru – Review

Tasting Notes

On the nose, immediately evocative and complex. Juicy, with vibrant aromas of crushed strawberries mingling harmoniously with delicate spices with exceptional aromatic depth.

On the palate, there's remarkable liveliness and an inviting, vibrant acidity that beautifully balances its impressive density and intense fruit concentration. Crushed strawberries, ripe raspberries, and tangy cranberries come forward effortlessly, underscored by a subtle earthiness and remarkably precise, finely textured tannins. Structured but still balanced, and eminently drinkable. There’s a delicate hint of mint that becomes increasingly prominent.

The finish is elegant, accentuated by gentle oak and lingering notes of crushed strawberries.

My Thoughts

Overall, this wine is exceptionally tasty, showcasing impressive structure, density and concentrated fruit character. It’s evident, as Jasper remarked, that the grapes were harvested with whole bunches, given the distinctive peppery note on the nose paired with sweet crushed strawberry flavours – a hallmark of this style of winemaking.

Jasper happily noted that 2015 is a fantastic vintage in Burgundy, comparing it to two memorable vintages: 2005, his all-time top vintage known for its intense concentration yet somewhat austere nature requiring substantial cellaring, and the charming, juicy, fruit-forward 2010 vintage, noted for its immediate approachability but much less structural depth. According to Jasper, this 2015 vintage blends the best of both vintages—it possesses the density and structure reminiscent of 2005 alongside the juiciness and drinkability of 2010. This Clos des Lambrays is ideal for drinking now, yet it still holds tremendous potential for further aging.

@CharsiuCharlie