In the rugged highlands of South Australia’s Eden Valley stands a winery that many wine lovers revere as Australia’s equivalent of a storied Old World domaine, wherein lies what wine historian Andrew Caillard calls “the most significant vineyard site in Australia”.

This is Henschke, a six-generation family-owned estate whose roots run as deep as its century-old vines. Its commitment to single-vineyard terroir, generational stewardship, and traditional craft has earned it a place of honor among connoisseurs who also see it as one of the rare Australian estates that evoke the continuity of a Burgundy domaine or a Rhône estate passed from parent to child.

 

The fifth, sixth and seventh generation of Henschkes (Source: Dragan Radocaj)

 

To understand how this legendary South Australian estate came to be, we must journey back over 180 years, to a state in Central Europe that no longer exists on the map: Silesia. The Henschke story begins during the time of the Kingdom of Prussia. Silesia was a land of fertile farms and devout villagers, but also religious turmoil.

 

 

However, in the 1830s, the Prussian king enforced a merger of Lutheran and Reformed churches into a single state church, effectively outlawing traditional Lutheran practices. The late Johann Henschke was a young Lutheran living in this land. Viewing this as persecution, many faithful Old Lutherans chose exile. Some went north into what would become Germany, or west into the United States, still others looked to the southern hemisphere. Johann was among those who, in search of religious freedom, resolved to go to the ends of the earth – in his case, to the nascent Colony of South Australia.

 

 

In 1841, Johann Henschke, then 37 years old, boarded with his wife and children a crowded three-masted ship, The Skjold, in Hamburg. Along with over 200 other emigrants led by a pastor, he endured a grueling four-month voyage through storms and disease to reach the antipode. The journey exacted a cruel price: both Johann’s wife, Appolonia and their infant daughter fell ill and died at sea. Henschke and his three young sons arrived at Port Adelaide after many months. It was a bittersweet landing – one chapter of life closed tragically, but a new one beginning in an unknown land. South Australia, however, offered what Prussia did not: it was a free-settler colony with no convicts (who were mostly sent by Britain to Sydney and Melbourne) and, critically for the Henschkes, a promise of religious liberty. Here Johann could rebuild what’s left of his family life and worship without fear.

Johann first settled in a German-speaking enclave in the Adelaide Hills, at Lobethal, where many of the Lutheran refugees initially established farms and villages. While he was a skilled stonemason and wheelwright, he harbored agrarian ambitions. He became drawn to the Barossa Range, a high country further north that fellow Silesians spoke of with hope.

 

Adelaide Hills (Source: Henschke)

 

From the late 1840s to 1860s, Johann purchased acres of land at Krondorf and Eden Valley in the Barossa, and moved his homestead there. And by 1868, he recorded the first sales of Henschke grape wine. From a mere 300 gallons a year in the very beginning, Johann’s production grew. After a lifetime of persecution, hardship and toil, he had achieved something monumental: he had rooted his family in a new land. The Henschke winery was born, a quiet enterprise in South Australia destined for greatness that its founding father could never have imagined. Johann passed just five years after his first wines were sold, but not before passing the torch to the next generation.

When Johann died, his son Paul Gotthard Henschke took charge of the Keyneton farm and vineyards – producing fortified wines (port and sherry styles) which were in fashion, along with some dry red and white “hock” (Riesling) for everyday table use. Perhaps Paul Henschke’s most fateful decision was to acquire a particular vineyard that would become later become legendary in 1891: a parcel of land near the old Hill of Grace Lutheran church. The site came to be known by the church’s name, the Hill of Grace. In truth, it’s more gentle slope than hill –there is no real hill at Hill of Grace vineyard since it was named after the church!

 

(Source: Wikimedia Commons)

 

Henschke’s reputation continued to grow as the 20^th century dawned, with winery operations and land ownership expanding significantly. By the end of World War II, tastes began slowly shifting from fortified wine to dry table wines and varietal bottlings. Cyril Henschke, the fourth-generation winemaker stepped up in 1950 at age 28 – and he was to become the son who would put Henschke on the map beyond Australia.

Cyril made the visionary decision to shift Henschke’s focus from bulk fortified wine to dry table wines. Apart from acquiring other vineyards, Cyrl also made the significant acquisition of a site called Mount Edelstone 10 kilometers south of Hill of Grace in the 1950s. This site was planted in 1912 by Ronald Angas, a descendant of the prominent English banker, George Fife Angas, who founded South Australia. Originally named "Edelstein," which is German for "jewel," the Angases who spoke only English adjusted the name to "Edelstone".

 

Cyril Henschke in his tasting room (Source: Australian National Portrait Gallery)

 

By the mid-1950s, very few Australian wineries were bottling single-vineyard or single-varietal wines – most sold generic French-style blended wines. Drawing on Henschke’s existing vineyards, Cyril began crafting single-vineyard single-varietal wines from specific sites to emphasize their individual character. His greatest legacy: the creation of two Shiraz wines that today rank among Australia’s icons: Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace.

Cyril effectively turned Henschke into Australia’s equivalent of a classic domaine, where named plots of land produce singular wines of place. Over the next decades, as Australia’s table wines gained international repute, Henschke’s prestige grew on the back of these flagship Shiraz bottlings.

His innovations did not stop there. Cyril was also one of the first in the region to champion varietal Cabernet Sauvignon (planting it in the Eden Valley vineyard in the 1960s) and dry Riesling under the Henschke label.

Ancient Soils and a Patchwork of Climates

Understanding the Eden Valley is key to understanding Henschke’s wines.

 

(Source: Quill & Pad)

 

The Barossa is often spoken of as one entity, but in truth it consists of two interwoven landscapes: the Barossa Valley floor and the upland Eden Valley (sometimes called the Barossa Range). Henschke sources fruit from both, but its home vineyards lie in the Eden Valley high country.

Situated in the Mount Lofty Ranges about an hour’s drive from Adelaide, Eden Valley has a markedly different climate from the lower Barossa Valley. As it is significantly elevated, Eden Valley has a more continental climate – meaning cooler nights and a later ripening season. On average, Eden Valley harvests come 1–2 weeks later than down in the Barossa Valley. Varying elevations also create a finely grained patchwork of mesoclimates even with Eden Valley itself. Grapes here develop intense flavor yet maintain bright acidity, and reds often show a characteristic peppery, spicy lift that marks cooler-climate Shiraz.

Eden Valley’s typical soil profile is sandy loam topsoil over clay subsoil and weathered rock. But the specifics vary from slope to slope. On the hilltops and upper slopes, the soil is often shallow, gravely, and well-drained, with schist or quartz fragments (challenging for vigorous growth). In the valleys and lower slopes, soils accumulate depth, with loamy sands and clays that hold moisture better. With this variability of soil, Henschke could find subtle differences in ripening and flavor by harvesting and vinifying each block separately (even within the same vineyard), later blending to create a complete wine.

One striking aspect of Northern Eden Valley (Keyneton area) is the presence of calcareous substrata in spots.

The Henschke estate vineyards closer to the Eden Valley village (slightly south, higher altitude) feature soils that are notably acidic, with challenging “prismatic clays” in the subsoil. These prismatic clays form vertical pillars in the lower soil layers, which force vine roots to snake down between them in search of moisture. That deep rooting encourages resilience but naturally limits vine vigor, especially as the acidic pH limits nutrient availability. Henschke’s Wheelwright and Cyril Henschke vineyards are on such soils and see higher rainfall at their elevation – producing wines with finer structure and red-fruited elegance as a result.

By contrast, at lower elevations to the north, Mount Edelstone and Hill of Grace sit on soils that, while still old, transition from acidic to more neutral pH, with some limestone influence and freedraining sandy loams over mid-red clay. These conditions, combined with slightly less rainfall, allow their centenarian vines to remain surprisingly vigorous, reliably ripening crops even at great age.

Henschke’s Icon Wines

Henschke’s portfolio includes many wines, but four single-vineyard bottlings stand out as pillars of the estate: Hill of Grace, Mount Edelstone, Cyril Henschke, and The Wheelwright that together map the geography of Henschke’s Eden Valley home.

 

Henschke's Hill of Grace vineyard (Source: Quill & Pad)

 

The Hill of Grace Shiraz, first bottled by Cyril Henschke in 1958, is today a collector’s jewel and a wine of international renown. At its best, Hill of Grace balances power and elegance in a way that seems to reflect its venerable vines. This site which was first acquired by the late Johann Henschke was planted back in he 1860s by Nicolaus Stanitzki, a Lutheran settler, and still bears fruit over 150 years later. They are ungrafted, own-rooted Shiraz of a clone brought from Europe in the mid-19th century, which even makes them a direct link to pre-phylloxera vine heritage. Due to their age, they are naturally low-yielding. What little fruit they yield is incredibly concentrated, giving Hill of Grace Shiraz its trademark intensity and perfume.

 

Henschke’s Mt. Edelstone vineyard (Source: Dragan Radocaj)

 

Mount Edelstone lies ten kilometers to the south of Hill of Grace. While about 16 hectares in size, Henschke typically uses only the oldest sections for their bottling of the Mount Edelstone Shiraz. The vines are “centenarian” Shiraz, dry-grown and ungrafted, much like Hill of Grace’s (though slightly younger). Compared to Hill of Grace, sees more even sunlight across the block and also has a layer of deep sandy loam which helps the topsoil have even more porosity and drainage, even though the overall profile is still dominated by clay. This leads to Edelstone’s exposure leads to greater phenolic concentration and spicier aromatics.

Henschke’s Modern Era

 

Stephen and Prue Henschke (Source: Henschke/Dragan Radocaj Photography)

 

As Henschke enters its sixth generation of family ownership, it continues to stand as one of the world’s great wine estates, yet remains firmly grounded in its heritage and community. The fifth generation Stephen and Prue Henschke continue to oversee production, with their children increasingly involved.

 

(Source: Duy Dash)

 

Johann Henschke, the eldest of the children, is a winemaker and viticulturist who has effectively taken on day-to-day winemaking duties in recent years. Meanwhile his siblings Justine and Andreas apply their expertise to marketing and winery upgrades respectively.

 

(Source: Henschke/Dragan Radocaj Photography)

 

Culturally, the family remains embedded– they still attend the Gnadenberg Church (that iconic Hill of Grace Church) on occasion, and they support local music and arts.

And that’s Henschke’s epic story that stretches from old Silesia to the Barossa Ranges and across six generations of custodianship! This is a such an eye-watering chronicle of continuity! Today, the ethos of its early owners remains very much alive in the hands of the sixth generation. And it was this sincerity and quiet conviction that we had the privilege of encountering firsthand at Decanter’s Fine Wine Encounter Singapore.

 

 

We joined the grand masterclass led by Johann Henschke (the sixth-generation winemaker) who shared with us the Henschke story directly from his family home. Complementing the narrative was a truly extraordinary tasting of Henschke’s most important wines – The Wheelwright Shiraz, The Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, and three vintages of both the legendary Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone.

Let’s get to tasting them!

Wine Review: Henschke, Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley, South Australia 2021

Tasting Notes

 

Nose: A lifted, almost airy perfume of violets and rose petals, sitting over a focused core of cassis and black cherry. There is a cool, slightly herbal edge that shows up as bay leaf and black olive that adds a gentle green snap. Warm, subtle spices creeps in from the anise and cedar, and the sandalwood and faint cigar-box note give a clean, aromatic wood tone. A fine mineral line that shows up as an iron and graphite streak, along with a light, antique wood polish smell that gives the nose a smooth, polished character.

Palate: Vivid clarity from a bright mix of red and blackcurrant along with the slightly sour edge of red cherry. The fruit is very high in definition, and the firm, lively acidity sharpens the red apple snap that runs through the mid-palate. Fresh crushed herb elements settle into the background, with a savoury weight building gradually from the tar, graphite and cocoa-dusted oak. Feels quite structured while still remaining light on its feet. Tannins are feel superfine and powdery, more like granitic dust than grit; they add shape without coarseness.

Finish: Narrows into a clean line of cassis and red cherry tapering away with a mouth-watering, refreshing acidity rather than sweetness. A light warmth sits in the background from the lingering spice, and the cocoa, cedar and the same iron-mineral tone from the nose remain.

My Thoughts:

This is very drinkable, polished and clearly well made. Its purity and balance are impressive. It feels like a modern, classic Eden Valley cabernet: floral, precise and quietly confident. Ripeness is measured, and the wine holds onto a bright red-fruit crunch and a cool graphite and iron undercurrent that keep somewhat taut. There is plenty of room for refinement, and I can see the layers becoming more open and resonant with another decade in bottle.

Wine Review: Henschke, The Wheelwright Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2021

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens with a lifted, buoyant brightness of raspberry and mulberry, with a quieter layer of blackberry sitting further back. The aroma feels high toned and very detailed, with wild thyme, sage and a small touch of mint that give a cool edge. A gentle airy floral lift follows from the violets and lavender. Soft warmth shows up from the light incense and woodsmoke, and the subtle toasty oak creates a calm, rounded surface beneath the fruit. All of this sits over a firm, stony line that feels like crushed rock, and that mineral edge gives the wine a shape and definition that reminds me a little of Burgundy.

Palate: Begins with a concentrated but quite weightless feel, tart energy first coming from the raspberry, red cherry and the slight bitterness of plum skins. Deeper tones appear as the blueberry and blackberry fold in, but it stays restrained and clean. The texture feels fine and silky, almost Pinot-like in the mid-palate; that sensation comes from the gentle oak toast and very delicate tannins that shape the wine without heaviness. As the fruit sits back, a savoury depth grows from the dried herbs, white and black pepper and the faint meaty edge that adds complexity and reins in the brightness. It's controlled and balanced, with no part of the fruit or structure dominating.

Finish: Clean and taut with that linear impression comes from the tart cherry and the slight bitterness of raspberry seed. Spicy-savoury lift follows from the white pepper and the garrigue-like herbs and some soft lactonic tones from the oak appear at the very end in a subtle way. Echoes of mixed spice and mineral stones.

My Thoughts:

There is a lot of precision and charm here. Wheelwright 2021 feels like the most distinctive wine in the line-up, in the sense that its lifted red fruit and its almost Burgundian poise set it slightly apart from the denser expressions of Eden Valley Shiraz. Yet it still reads clearly as Shiraz because of the blue fruit touches, the tart red-fruit snap and the incense and pepper notes.

What stands out most is the freshness and the mineral detail, and the fact that the wine already feels open and approachable without needing to wait for it to soften. It is a gently savoury, finely etched expression of Shiraz that is easy to drink now while still promising more refinement with time.

Wine Review: Henschke, Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2021

Tasting Notes

Nose: Opens immediate intensity of violets, dried rose petals and potpourri that lifts straight out of the glass. Fruit underneath feels deep and dark, shaped by the dark cherries, blackberries and the slightly bitter edge of plums. A clear herbal line then cuts through, showing the classic mix of wild sage, fresh bay and thyme, then brings a cool, savoury sharpness to the aroma. A warm, rounded layer sits just behind it from the peppercorn mix and the gentle baking spice tones of cardamom, cinnamon and clove, which stay integrated rather than overt. Beneath everything is a bright mineral feel that reflects Eden Valley’s stony soils, giving the aroma a clean, glinting outline.

Palate: Starts with such a smooth, velvety entry; a soft glide of extremely fine-grained tannins. The fruit shows a sweet and sour tension, with its combination of cherries, strawberries, dark raspberry and a darker thread of blackberry, all held together by a firm, linear acidity that keeps the wine feeling cool and energetic, never too dense. A warm, spiced detail spreads through the mid-palate from the cardamom, cinnamon, clove and a small touch of anise, and the herbs stay present in the background as a layer of sage and bay that keeps the fruit from feeling overly plush. Graphite and mineral line runs through the centre.

Finish: Long and lively, with continued brightness of crushed strawberries and red cherry. As the fruit tapers, a subtle mix of spice and dried herbs takes over, and a faint earthy mustiness appears right at the end without turning rustic.

My Thoughts:

There is fantastic complexity here, with that sweet and sour fruit profile giving a lot of charm and definition. The aromatics feel lively and expressive, and the wine stays generous and drinkable despite its structure. What I appreciate most is how well balanced the perfume, the spice, the herb line and the tannin structure are, with no single part overwhelming the others. Compared with Wheelwright, this shows more depth and darker fruit, along with the clear sage and pepper character that marks Edelstone. Compared with Hill of Grace, it feels a bit more linear and savoury, less ornate. It already drinks beautifully because of its silky texture and bright fruit, but the fine structure and the clarity of its inner lines suggest it will age very well.

Wine Review: Henschke, Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2015

Tasting Notes

Nose: More grounded and earthy compared with younger Edelstone vintages, with an obvious shift toward spice, soil and darker tones rather than florals. Fruit shows up as dark berries and plum, and that richer feel is lifted by the soft, slightly tart acidity of red apple offering a bright top note against the darker base. A warm, rounded spice layer builds from the cocoa, vanilla, clove and nutmeg, and these sit smoothly over the fruit without feeling sweet. Some herbal threads of sage and rosemary adding a cool savoury line, while incense, truffle and a light dried leaf or forest floor note create an early tertiary character. It seems a bit deeper, quieter and more autumnal than the 2021.

Palate: Starts plush and rounded, with a silky flow that comes from the ripe texture and fine tannins. The centre of the palate fills with concentrated black fruits like blackberry, black cherry and plum, supported by a subtle lift from blueberry that keeps the fruit from feeling heavy. Warm spiced depths take over in the mid-palate from the black pepper, clove and nutmeg, and a savoury richness grows from the beef stock, coffee bean and truffle tones, giving the wine a distinctly umami dimension. The tannins are velvety yet clearly present, and they frame the fruit in a way that gives structure without hardness.

Finish: Stretches long and steady, with a gentle dusting of baking spice and lingering black fruits holding on. A light tannic grip remains, but it stays refined and even. A final lift of brightness from the fresh sliced apple acidity, balances out the weighty darker flavours.

My Thoughts:

The 2015 Edelstone sits in a really attractive early tertiary window, where the wine has moved away from the floral and herbal brightness of youth and into something more savoury, textured and grounded. The florals have stepped back and the spice, dark fruit, truffle and dried herb notes are now central, giving a more somber, autumnal mood. It feels like a serious, food-friendly Edelstone that leans on depth, umami and spice rather than the lifted aromatic detail of cooler years.

You could easily tuck this vintage away for further development if you want more tertiary nuance, or pour it now if you prefer Edelstone when it shows its quieter, darker character.

Wine Review: Henschke, Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2005

Tasting Notes

Nose: The aroma comes across highly perfumed and sweet toned, with raspberry and strawberry jam along with the cherry liqueur that sit right at the front. A lifted floral note follows from the dried rose, and this adds a soft, perfumed haze over the fruit. A warm, rounded mix of baking spice and faint mocha appears next, and this folds into the sweetness without feeling heavy. Beneath the perfume, a cooler mineral layer shows up as a slate-like, wet rocks after rain smell, and the slight smoked meat and pepper hints provide contrast from the richer notes.

Palate: Immediately expressive, but the texture now feels more silky than dense, with an impeccable smoothness. Flavours blossom with dark cherry and raspberry, followed by crushed strawberries, blueberry and a soft touch of plum, and the fruit feels saturated yet not thick. A cool, damp stone character mirrors the wet rain from the nose. The oak has melted fully into the wine, and the chocolate and mocha tones feel integrated rather than separate. Tannins are velvety and completely resolved, and the wine moves in a loose, flowing kind of way.

Finish: Finish holds onto the crushed frozen strawberries and the sweet liquorice, sitting with a faint cocoa note that lingers lightly. A damp stone impression remains at the very end, and a small aged tone appears as a hint of leather or old wood. Even so, the wine still feels vibrant and lively rather than tired.

My Thoughts:

This was the best of the range for me. At this stage, the wine has shed any youthful firmness and is now all about aromatic saturation and ease, with sweet toned red and black fruits, spice, liquorice and that wet rain on stone character that gives dimension and freshness. Some power is still present, but it sits inside a relaxed, silky texture rather than showing real force.

If I may, compared with the 2005 Hill of Grace, this feels more open knit and more immediately expressive today, which explains why I responded to it even more strongly than the still-serious 2005 Hill of Grace. This makes a very convincing case for Edelstone as a grand wine in its own right instead of simply being viewed as a second wine, or Hill of Grace’s understudy.

Wine Review: Henschke, Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2021

Tasting Notes

Nose: Deep but lifted at the same time, and that effect comes first from the mix of roses, violets, lavender and potpourri that rises straight out of the glass. The fruit sits in a darker register, and that density is shaped by black plum, blackberry, cassis and the spiced edge of quince. Around the edges, there is a fresher, crunchier feel that comes from the pomegranate and the bright red fruits. Warmer tones builds gradually from the cocoa, star anise and nutmeg, and with more air a faint spiced and chewy character shows up, with dried fruit, nuts and soft spice. Beneath the perfume and fruit, a subtle earth and soil tone appears, along with a faint vegetal and herbal edge of bay and sage that seems to speak to the site.

Palate: Opens really concentrated and quite savoury, shaped by the tight core of dark cherries, blackberries, raspberry and cassis, plus a small smear of strawberry preserve that adds a gentle tart-sweetness. Mouthfeel feels dense without becoming heavy because the bright acidity runs right through the middle and keeps the wine lifted. Tannins are very fine and tightly woven, giving a grip that stays smooth. A cool mineral dimension appears from the iron and graphite notes, adding a ferrous structure that anchors the fruit.

Finish: Closes more savoury than fruity. Very long and glides gradually from dark berries into a mix of herbal spice. Quite savoury, with the classic bay leaf, sage, star anise and black pepper. Some earthy touches of cocoa and a faint nutty, MLF driven creaminess sit at the end.

My Thoughts:

This feels very plush and very dense, with great concentration that never turns heavy because of the bright acidity and the lifted floral character. It already reads as one of the truly great, long lived vintages. Even from a single glass, the 2021 Hill of Grace feels like a young pillar vintage: rich and saturated in fruit yet kept taut by the florals, the acidity and the cool ferrous streak.

There is a clear tension between the luscious fruit tones like pomegranate, plum, cassis and strawberry jam and the savoury structure coming from the iron, herbs and spice. It still sits in a coiled state, and the wine shows different facets as you move from nose to palate to finish. Compared with the 2015 Hill of Grace, this is tighter, more vertical and clearly built for long development. It is a vintage to study now and to drink for pleasure in 10 to 20 plus years.

Wine Review: Henschke, Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2015

Tasting Notes

Nose: Already showing a complex and fragrant mix of notes, opening with potpourri, dried rose and violets. Fruits sit in a darker spectrum, with blackberries, mulberries and dark plums giving depth, and a brighter crisp top note from the crunchy red apples. A cooler, savoury tone follows from the tobacco leaf and the faint smoked meat character, and the cedar and vanilla from the oak settle in gently without dominating. Brown spices like clove, cinnamon and a mild paprika warmth weave into the background and add a soft glow.

Palate: Big in flavour and breadth but stays very composed, opening with layers of black fruit such as blackberry, plum and cassis sitting over a quieter thread of raspberry and red cherry. The wine feels somewhat transparent rather than bulky thanks to the earth and the crisp mineral line, and the tannins are extremely fine and silky, almost powdery, giving this seamless, flowing texture. Subtle dark chocolate, anise and sweet floral hints echo through the mid palate, integrating into the fruit and savoury notes.

Finish: Long, gentle and slightly smoky, with light woodsmoke, dried herbs and the soft berries that linger quietly. Acidity is so well integrated and very soft, and the aftertaste focuses more on persistence and harmony than on any single dominant note.

My Thoughts:

Feels big yet very drinkable, with a great balance of concentrated fruit and fine tannins. The generosity never tips into heaviness, and that is the core strength of this 2015. The concentrated black fruits, potpourri, tobacco leaf, cedar and earth all mesh in a seamless way, and the acidity and tannins are so well-woven that nothing sticks out.

Compared with the 2021, it shows more openness and a velvety softness right now. It already offers a complete and satisfying experience, yet it is also clear that the wine can evolve gracefully for another couple of decades.

Wine Review: Henschke, Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley, South Australia 2005

Tasting Notes

Nose: Very perfumed and gently evolved with sweet-tart red berries like raspberry and strawberry jam, along with the red apple that adds a soft, fresh top note. Deeper fruit tones of plum and mulberry sit underneath. A strong floral layer follows from the rose petal, lavender and a rose Turkish delight, giving a sweet, perfumed haze over the fruit. Aromatic oak tones appear as vanilla, cassia, a hint of old varnished wood and pencil shavings. Then some tertiary truffle and earthy undertones forming a subtle base to anchor the sweetness and florals.

Palate: Begins with a soft, almost gentle entry, and the powdery florals appear right away as part of the velvety, powdery texture. The main weight comes from the plums and black fruits, supported by some stone fruit juiciness and a lift from the red berries.

As mentioned, tannins are near-resolution and this feels almost juice like in how easy it is to drink, but some structure is still present. Savoury notes of cedar, truffle and a touch of tobacco offer some restraint from jamminess.

Finish: Fresh, graceful, integrated, with lingering impressions from the raspberry jam and a bit of plum preserve. A trace of chalky minerality and dried leaves closes the wine.

My Thoughts:

This vintage is generous and concentrated, with a surprising amount of freshness and an ease of drinking that makes it very appealing even now. It sits in a beautiful mature phase where perfume, texture and subtle detail carry the wine rather than sheer fruit weight.

While I personally found the 2005 Mount Edelstone even more immediately expressive at this moment, I believe the 2005 Hill of Grace clearly holds greater depth in reserve. It still feels like a wine with layers waiting to unfold and the structure to continue ageing. There is a sense of latent complexity that will reward patience, even though it is already very enjoyable today.

 

@CharsiuCharlie