The Il Marroneto wine estate, a modest 8-hectare group of vineyards located near the medieval walls of the prestigious Montalcino wine region of Tuscany, is regarded by wine critics around the world as one of the best producers of Italian Brunello wines.

Visiting the estate that sits on a steep hill, one is greeted by this breathtaking panorama of the Orcia Valley below, with the city of Siena in the distance – a view straight out of a Renaissance masterpiece. It was this very vista that in 1974, captivated Giuseppe Mori, an Italian lawyer from Siena. Giuseppe fell head over heels for the property and purchased it the very next day of his visit. He began planting rows of grapevines and tended to the olive trees, though he wasn’t exactly planning to build a world-class winery. He continued to be a small town lawyer but envisioned having the estate as a quiet vacation home for him and his family. Although the vines were laid in the 1970s, the family's commitment to serious winemaking came later.

(Source: The Wine Independent)

Alessandro Mori, Giuseppe's son and the current owner of the estate, spent his childhood amidst the idyllic surroundings of Il Marroneto, where he and his brother toiled alongside their father, tending to the vines and olive trees. After following in his father's footsteps to become a lawyer in Siena, Alessandro eventually found himself yearning for a more fulfilling existence. The demanding legal profession left little time for family and personal passions, prompting Alessandro to reassess his priorities.

He decided to relocate with his wife and young son, Iacopo, to the countryside estate in Montalcino. The family took up residence in a dilapidated 13th-century house, once used by nuns from the nearby convent of Madonna delle Grazie to dry chestnuts. This ancient house, with only one habitable room, became the heart of their new life where they embraced a simpler, more meaningful way of living.

The family home, known as Il Marroneto (The Chestnut) for its chestnut-drying past, lent its name to the winery. The estate's oldest and most prestigious vineyard, Madonna delle Grazie, took its name from the convent.

Critics wax poetic about Il Marroneto's wines, describing them as possessing the classic Brunello firmness and age-worthiness, yet infused with an indulgent fragrance and a silky texture. Alessandro, a staunch traditionalist, firmly believes in crafting wines that are "derived strictly from nature."

In the vineyards, Alessandro adheres to the time-honoured practices of Brunello producers, embracing a hands-off approach that eschews chemicals and allows nature to take its course, ensuring that the Sangiovese grapes express the purest essence of the terroir.

In the cellar, Alessandro continues his purist approach, opting for spontaneous fermentation with native yeasts and relying only on traditional large oak casks, crafted from old Slavonian and Allier oak, to mature his wines – refusing to go near to new oak or steel tanks. Another defining characteristic of Alessandro's winemaking style is his preference for crafting low-pH wines with high acidity, a trait that contributes to their exceptional aging potential. This approach ensures that Il Marroneto's Brunellos can evolve gracefully in the bottle for decades.

The estate produces four wine labels: the flagship Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino, the estate’s top wine Il Marroneto “Madonna delle Grazie” Brunello di Montalcino which is made from the best batches of Brunello, the “Ignacio” Rosso di Montalcino, and the “Iacopo” Rosso di Montalcino which is a premium Rosso cuvée specially blended by Alessandro’s son, Iacopo.

The Brunello and Rosso are two sides of the same coin. The so-called king of Tuscan wines, Brunello di Montalcino, is made from 100% Sangiovese grapes selected to ensure only the best quality fruits are used. After vinification, it then undergoes aging of at least two years in oak barrels and four months in bottle before release to develop richer aromas. Importantly, Brunellos are governed by DOCG regulations that impose a strict yield limit to maintain quality – only 8 tons of grapes per hectare can be used by winemakers to make their Brunellos.

So what happens to the excess grapes that do not fall within these 8 tons? Enter the Rosso di Montalcino – the younger sibling of the Brunello. The Rosso is made in a similar way as the Brunello – from 100% Sangiovese grapes – often from batches that have not been selected for use in Brunellos. Rossos also have to be barrel aged, but regulations require a shorter period of aging for a minimum of one year, which can include time in oak barrels, stainless steel, or concrete tanks. The use of oak is often less intensive than for Brunello, resulting in a fresher and more fruit-forward wine, with softer tannins and a lively acidity.

This is why many Italian estates, including Il Marroneto, produce both Brunello and Rosso. Their Brunellos are fermented with wild yeast, macerated for about 3 weeks, then aged in wood for about 40 months (or 3 years and 4 months). The key difference between the flagship Brunello and the Madonna delle Grazie Brunello is that the former is vinified at a very high temperature, sometimes up to 40 degrees C to extract more flavour from the grapes, while the latter is fermented at a much cooler temperature of 28 degrees C over a much longer period of time – this gentle extraction leads to a more delicate and nuanced profile.

The Il Marroneto “Iacopo” Rosso di Montalcino is something of an estate "second vin" by the winery, but is so highly ranked by wine critics that it is said to rival Brunellos of other Italian estates. 

The Rossos at Il Marroneto are said to be of comparable quality to Brunellos of other estates. They are macerated and vinified just like Il Marroneto’s Brunellos but at a lower temperature, then aged for more than 2 years to give it a brighter and fruiter flavour. Critics describe Il Marroneto’s Rossos as a “declassified Brunello” that has the same signature fruity character but is much smoother, more approachable and highly drinkable.

Here's a review of the Il Marroneto “Iacopo” Rosso di Montalcino I’ve tasted at Angra Wine & Spirit’s tasting event.

Il Marroneto Ignaccio Rosso Di Montalcino 2020 - Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Aromatic, complex and balanced. Opens with a delightful tangle of fresh cherries and raspberries, their sweetness intensifying into a thick, fruit-forward jamminess. Fruitiness is grounded by subtle earthy notes, a hint of tobacco's smokiness and sweet oak, along with a touch of the barnyard.

Palate: A clean, luscious entry leads into a medium-bodied experience that's both sweet and jammy, reminiscent of raspberry jam. This sweetness is tempered by the dryness of oak, a gentle tug of tannins, and a touch of tobacco on the tongue. Very multidimensional and layered.

Finish: Clean but remarkably long also with a lasting impression of luscious fruits. The sweetness of the initial fruit jam transforms into a lively plum note, with just a hint of gaminess that adds depth and complexity.

My Thoughts:

This is probably the best Rosso di Montalcino I've had the pleasure of tasting. It’s got impeccable balance and such a vibrant bouquet, from the bright fruitiness to the subtle earthy undertones. It’s got a bit of tannic finesse woven in too but everything has been almost fine-tuned to make it an effortlessly drinkable red that could pair with a fantastic hearty dinner, or something you’d like to quietly enjoy after a meal.

@CharsiuCharlie