The affable and carefree soul shines a light on the forgotten Melon de Bourgogne and shows the Loire can produce serious Chardonnays & Pinot Noirs too

"My goal is to make the best wine possible, not simply to just be organic for the sake of it - I don't have that label, and I don't need that label. If you go organic without observing and actually thinking about it, you just won't get the best fruit. What I've learnt is that you make great wines with intuition, so much of it is by feeling."

Jean Baptiste Hardy is only in his early 30's but has already done what generations before him couldn't - he brought attention to the small town of Mouzillon that sits in the Loire Valley's Muscadet. The man strikes a happy-go-lucky, effortless boyish charm, whilst also holding strong feels about winemaking. And rightly so. Despite his youth, he's already worked at some of the most esteemed estates, from Burgundy's biodynamic legends Domaine Roulot and Domaine Leflaive, to California's culted Domaine de la Cote, Patagonia's highly regarded Bodega Chacra founded by the family behind Super Tuscan Sassicaia, and then to New Zealand's Fromm Winery. Hardy says that growing up in a historic winemaking town, he had always harboured the desire to be involved in wines, although he wasn't initially sure in which role it would be - at one point even considering becoming a sommelier - but was eventually inspired by an encounter with Jean Marc Roulot to become a winemaker himself. He ultimately decided to go wherever he had admired the winegrowing, with of course an intuitive pull towards those applying biodynamic practices. It's altogether a stacked CV to say the least, which sits on top of his oenology studies at the historic Lycee Viticole de la Loire university. There's very little more that you could ask for from an emerging winemaker than what you'll find with Hardy.

Close to the Atlantic Ocean, Muscadet is a coastal town famed for the Melon de Bourgogne grape.

And despite everything he’s done, the reality is that the odds were stacked against him in the one area beyond his control: where he makes his wines. Seated close to the opening towards the Atlantic, in the western segment of the Loire, France's longest river and also arguably its most diverse (and amongst its oldest!) winemaking region, Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine is a wet and windy, coastal area that lies just across the river from the town of Nantes, where its rocky volcanic gabbro and silica-clay soils are best known for the white Melon de Bourgogne varietal. As its name suggests, the varietal had originated from Burgundy, but was later ordered to be destroyed in favour of Chardonnay by the 18th Century, where it would eventually find its way to the Loire which had then suffered a harsh winter that had wiped out the region's vines, and thus offered new life to the banished varietal. Later DNA analysis would reveal that the Melon de Bourgogne is in fact a cross between Pinot Blanc and Gouais Blanc, and has for long been beloved by locals for its green and yellow fruits and minerality, which has become traditionally elevated through a sur lie elevage where the extended lees ageing can instead create a more creamy and richer texture as opposed to the classic dry and crisp profile. And thus it is with the Melon de Bourgogne that the Muscadet wine is made - not to be confused with the typically sweet Muscat - which stands unique in its namesake region for being a rare instance of a single variety wine region (or mono-cepage; Muscadet only home to just the one varietal).

Given that the Loire has never really had the financial muscle to compete with other French regions for marketing limelight, the wines from the often nicknamed Garden of France typically already do not enjoy as much attention and awareness, yet some have found their way to their own fandom, from Chenin Blanc to Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Franc, with Muscadet nevertheless a distant fourth. This is ironically in part due to the wine suffering from its own success, with its refreshing and clean style having found much popularity particularly in the USA, where it is often served alongside oysters and shellfish, which in turn led to decades of overproduction and the widespread use of industrial methods. This branded Muscadet as an easy wine synonymous with seafood buffets, neglecting Melon de Bourgogne's phenomenal ability to express terroir and its versatility in taking shape across various styles. This all only began to really change in the past two decades, with a long building groundswell finally crystalised with the 2014 establishment of the Federation des Vins de Nantes created to help promote better winegrowing and push for an upgrade in Muscadet's international reputation. Much of this was the result of a new generation of winemakers, including Hardy, who had learnt from the best around the world, and were now returning to take over the reins to their family's vineyards. Recognising the new world order, one where well made wines are recognised and appropriately valued, the Muscadet new wave has thus taken on the charge to bring the region, and its soul varietal, to its fullest potential.

Part of the push has been the long needed demarcating of a cru system (the Muscadet Crus Communaux) within Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine, the largest and most famous sub-region within the broader Muscadet AOC (which also includes Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu and Muscadet Coteaux de la Loire), which today recognises 10 crus. Whilst this remains outside of the AOC system, the framework is key to recognising exceptional vineyard sites and distinct terroirs, along with setting forth required viticultural and winemaking practices, that lays the foundational groundwork for greater recognition and accessibility for the wider wine community. Whilst the first three crus, Clisson, Gorges and Le Pallet, were first designated in 2011, various crus such as Mouzillon, which stands as one of the most prestigious, have since been defined. 

And thus it is in the easternmost Mouzillon that we find Jean Baptiste Hardy, who has already in a short period of time proven that he was always more than cut out for the job of reinvigorating his family's domaine. With all his experiences accumulated, Hardy would return in 2018 to his family's 14-hectare estate (with his parents retiring entirely, and his sister enjoying the sun in Hawaii), charged with the task of making not just his family's wines worth paying attention to, but aiding the charge to pushing Muscadet to its greatest heights. Hardy's first order of business was to take his family's vineyards organic - and in particular a special 4-hectare parcel of old vines that were planted in the 1950's via massale selection - with the goal being to allow his Muscadet's to fully reflect their terroir and also demonstrate age-worthiness, essentially everything that is lacking in common Muscadet's. He would also redesign the vineyard's trellising to promote greater maturity in his fruit, along with cover cropping, green harvesting and leaf thinning so as to naturally lower yields, so as to achieve greater quality and concentration. Hardy says that whilst he had learnt from the Burgundian pioneers of biodynamic and organic practices, he wasn't convinced to adopt these practices wholesale, and in fact emphasised its use as only a means to achieving greater quality fruit, thus curating his own regime that fitted his sensibilities. 

Hardy has his fruit harvested by hand, which are then pressed gently at low pressure, paying close attention to the delicateness of Melon de Bourgogne and making sure to stave off any bitterness. Spontaneous fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts, with all his wines going through full malolactic fermentation, Hardy then allows his wines to age for 12 months on the lees (sur lie) in large oak barrels or concrete diamond vats, with 6 months of ageing in glass lined underground tanks once blending is done. A light battonage is applied, although Hardy takes care to minimise disturbance to the wines during the ageing process, with the wines finally bottled without fining and filtration, and with either none or very little sulphur added.

The result of his work has been nothing short of a complete turning on its head of the perceptions of what Muscadet can be. What is often thought of as a commonplace, simple and quaffable, budget friendly table wine, has now emerged a serious wine of presence, depth and character, yet no less approachable. It's for that reason, with just three vintages under his belt, Hardy has already achieved spectacular acclaim. When asked, Hardy mentions that whilst his winegrowing philosophy has been totally antithetical to the generation-long work of his parents, they could not be prouder of what he's achieved, fully acknowledging the inherent tediousness of getting the world to take seriously Muscadet. He even shares that his father is often opening Hardy's still young wines to share with his friends whenever they come by, a true testament to the pride he has in the fruits of Hardy's labour.

Jean Baptiste Hardy.

Having proven that he can make magic with Muscadet, Hardy has since taken to expanding his vision for enlivening the region of Muscadet de Sevre-et-Maine by planting and producing the wines of international varieties (with newly rented vineyard parcels), demonstrating not only the area's potential to speak the wine world's lingua franca, but to also showcase a unique interpretation of the likes of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Consequently, Hardy currently produces a range of Muscadets - with in particular two famed single vineyard expressions, the Cuvee Fief de Chaintre and the Clos de Lozangere - along with a Chardonnay (L'Aubier) and a classic red Bordeaux cuvee (the Ponceau) of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. The wines are donned with Matisse-esque geometric forms and silhouettes, except here rendered in strikingly contrasting tones black and white, some muscular and sturdy, whilst others fluid or chaotic, each a representation of Hardy's personal interpretation of the wine within.

Today, we were incredibly fortunate to join Jean Baptiste Hardy for a luncheon where he was able to share with us his winemaking journey and philosophy. This was organised by WEA Wines (Singapore), who has always been incredibly perceptive at spotting the next generation of legendary winemakers, and are now bringing Hardy's wines to Singapore! Definitely check WEA Wines out for an absolutely impeccable selection of some of the most exciting, up and coming, as well as already culted wines!

Let's get to tasting!

Wine Review: Jean Baptiste Hardy Eclats Muscadet

Eclats translates as "Fragments". This is Melon de Bourgogne sourced from several plots around the area, planted on black volcanic gabbro soils. It's pressed whole cluster with no settling, and then fermented spontaneously with indigenous yeasts, with full malolactic fermentation. Ageing is 18 months on the lees in traditional underground glass lined tanks. It's finally bottled unfined and unfiltered.

This is the 2022 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Straw

Aroma: Deep and gentle perfume, almost oriental and exotic. It opens leesy with that doughiness and nutty savouriness, topped over with candied musky fruits of mangosteens and custard apples, joined also by the mellowed richness of baked apples and pears, and a delicate peachiness. There's white florals of jasmine, white tea and a slightly waxy agarwood. It's lightly honeyed, with also a rustic quality of hay and cream. It's fleshy and crystalline, with good concentration, yet at the same time rich and creamy. 

Taste: Medium-bodied, plush and supple, lightly candied and doughy, with still that soft muskiness of green and white fruits, of gooseberries and mangosteens, and a bright zestiness of passionfruit. It's creamy and rounded, with bright but softened acidity.

Finish: Those fleshy white fruits and gooseberries carry through, leading the finish, still honeyed, candied and waxy, garnished with jasmines and white tea, with here a surfacing of that stony minerality that begins to really come through. It's fresh and seamless, with a little crack of black pepper, yet keeping that plushness and concentration all the way through.

My Thoughts

The plushness of the body, here coloured by that great leesy character, is clearly the star, offering bounties of fresh green and white fruit, just lightly zesty, always perfumed, with then the stony minerality surfacing into the finish, makes then for a really enjoyable evening white that holds its own. This is Muscadet that isn't simply an accompanying libation, it stands on its own, with body and depth. It exudes elegance and gracefulness that makes it such a beauty of purity. Really splendid house pour that most certainly delights!

Wine Review: Jean Baptiste Hardy Fief de Chaintre Muscadet

This is the first of Hardy's two single vineyard wines. Fief de Chaintre comes from a vineyard that's 100% Melon de Bourgogne planted in the 1960's using massale selection - that means over 60 year old vines! The vineyard particularly has a northern exposure with loam/silt soils and gabbro as the subsoil. It's vinified whole cluster for 12 months on the lees in large oak barrels and concrete diamond vats, after which it's then blended together and aged in the traditional underground glass lined vats for another 6 months before bottling.

We were fortunate to try Hardy's debut 2020 vintage and compare it with his most recent 2023 vintage to see that evolution.

This is the 2020 and 2023 vintage.

Tasting Notes (2020 Vintage):

Colour: Deep Straw

Aroma: Great freshness, lightly candied and honeyed, with also some lofty vanilla and maltose that forms the base for bouquets of elderflower, lavender and agarwood. Really perfumed, with a light waxiness, and then a spread of musky fruits of custard apples and gooseberries. Little bit of doughiness here, with more of a savouriness.

Taste: Medium-bodied, super plush, creamy and candied with a touch of a vanillic tone. Mangosteens, custard apples, gooseberries, passionfruit, with just a crack of black pepper. The acidity is fresh but gentle, the body incredibly supple and velvety. Some granite comes through as well, with just a bit of savouriness.

Finish: More candied mangosteens, custard apples and gooseberries, with all these fleshy tropical fruits. It's creamy and vanillic through the finish, with lots of candy floss even, and then a lingering firmness of clay.

My Thoughts

Decidedly more fragrant with greater saturation, the 2020 vintage carries exotic oriental tones that envelop more deeply the doughy and candied body, leaning towards greater flavour intensity. What is perhaps most impressive here is that this stretches beyond the fruitiness, but extends also to the minerality that shines through. Here we find more evocative depth and intensity that inspires a sense of appreciation.

Tasting Notes (2023 Vintage):

Colour: Deep Straw

Aroma: Incredibly candied and creamy, with vanillic and maltose tones, accompanied by deep fleshy tropical white fruits, with also gooseberries and passionfruit. This shows more concentration, whilst also remaining plush and velvety, with a light muskiness and zestiness.

Taste: Medium-bodied here, also immediately more concentrated and detailed, with more precision and a chiselled structure. It's intensely candied, with a bright and defined acidity, with then the gooseberries and custard apples topped over vanilla cream, with a sprinkle of black pepper.

Finish: A continuation and persistence of what was on the palate, with that candied fruits of gooseberries and custard apples over vanilla cream and just a touch of black pepper. It sustains that concentrated depth and compactness, fanning out to an impeccably broad and firm candied finish.

My Thoughts

Where the 2020 vintage comes off broader and more rounded, with great flavour intensity, the 2023 vintage strikes with more concentration and detail, with a more chiselled structure that is intensely candied and of splendid texture and evolution, at points compact, and then also precise and clean, with then a final development towards a broadness that fans out beautifully. This is also the case remarkably with the acidity shown in the 2023 vintage which beyond being fresh was expressed with great clarity.

Wine Review: Jean Baptiste Hardy Clos de Lozangere Muscadet

Where the Fief de Chaintre faces north, the Clos de Lozangere faces south, also with 100% Melon de Bourgogne old vines planted in sandy loam/silt over gabbro soils, using massale selection vines in the 1950's, making these 70 year old vines. Similarly, it's vinified whole cluster for 12 months on the lees in large oak barrels and concrete diamond vats, after which it's then blended together and aged in the traditional underground glass lined vats for another 6 months before bottling.

This is the 2023 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Straw

Aroma: Opens musky and candied, with heaps of gooseberries, backed up by vanilla and a rusticity of hay. There's a bit of savouriness here, with some delicate earthiness of black pepper, and then a mineral undertone. Great precision and concentration.

Taste: Medium-bodied, super plush and rounded, candied and creamy, it's focused on gooseberries and custard apples, with a more prominent greenness of lime leaves, along with a crack of black pepper. It's precise, with bright and clean acidity, and again a mineral streak.

Finish: More on fleshy tropical white fruits of custard apples and mangosteens. It's candied and creamy, with a touch of black pepper savouriness. Seamless, clean, mineral finish.

My Thoughts

Certainly more focused, this seems to narrow in on a more singular profile that it then expresses deeply and with great precision. Trading off the swath of fruits, here it's more focused on musky green and white tropical fruits, with then also a more prominent leafy greenness and also hay that adds a nice rustic and idyllic touch. The minerality comes through cleanly here, again with great precision, as does the acidity. This leads into a really seamless finish that exudes an effortless finesse. This would work great as a pairing Muscadet that could work with cream pastas or seafood.

Wine Review: Jean Baptiste Hardy L'Aubier

L'Aubier translates as sapwood. 100% Chardonnay from a single plot of 15 year old vines that faces Hardy's Fief de Chaintre vineyard. It's vinified whole cluster for 12 months on the lees with indigenous yeasts in large oak barrels and amphora, before being blended and aged for 6 more months in traditional underground glass lined tanks. It's finally bottled unfined and unfiltered.

This is the 2022 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Straw

Aroma: Incredibly perfumed with bouquets of fresh white florals, along with an array of dried herbs, black pepper, as well as musky gooseberries. It's lightly vanillic and candied, yet not quite so creamy, with a greater mineral underline.

Taste: Medium-bodied, it's plush and velvety, with candied robes of textural opulence. Musky custard apples and gooseberries, it's creamy, with bright and gentle acidity. Layers upon layers of velvety honey, with a delicate oriental waxiness of elderflowers.

Finish: That candied quality carries through the finish, yet remarkably clean and fresh, and with great concentration, showing custard apples and abit of passionfruit, backed up by vanillic tones.

My Thoughts

What a phenomenal Chardonnay that is sensorially stunning! Aromatically and texturally, this delivers immaculately, with bountiful, vibrant fresh white florals, and candied robes that luxuriously coats the palate. It's rich and generous, opulent sans heaviness, and at the same time elegantly composed without crowdedness. It carries a rustic and idyllic character of dried herbs and musky fruits, with just a light zestiness, that somehow feels familiar to Hardy's famed Muscadet's. Pondering it, perhaps what is most enticing here is how this Chardonnay is rather distinct and unto its own, with a sensibility that evokes its provenance. Truly a sense of place!

Wine Review: Jean Baptiste Hardy Ponceau Rouge

And finally we come to Hardy's first red cuvee, the Ponceau, which is taken to refer to a bright, vivid red colour, historically synonymous with the corn poppy flower. The Ponceau is predominantly Merlot with then Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, all from vines that were planted in 1994 on granite and clay soils facing the south. It's destemmed and vinified for 18 months in large oak barrels, spontaneously fermented and then bottled without fining or filtration.

This is the 2022 vintage.

Tasting Notes

Colour: Deep Ruby

Aroma: Vibrant red fruits of raspberries and dark cherries, underscored by vanilla frosting, and garnished with irises and rose petals. The cherry pie is also joined by some rusticity and earthiness of animal hide, leather and tobacco, with also some green stems. It's sensual, rather rustic and confectionary, with a mineral undertone.

Taste: Medium-bodied, it opens rustic and earthy with animal hide and tobacco, then joined by that plush body of dark cherries and raspberries, with also rose petals, backed by some vanilla. The acidity is bright, with good fruit saturation, and the tannins velvety and fine grained.

Finish: A continuation of what was on the palate, with the same earthiness of leather and tobacco, along with the red fruits of dark cherry and raspberries, with here a meatiness that shows up. Still some vanillic tones to go with the perfumed rose petals. The finish is lightly grainy and dry, with the meatiness, and rustic earthiness lingering on.

My Thoughts

A really lovely red that is rich and beguiling, plush and sensual, with great fruit saturation, accompanied by a really charming rusticity and earthiness that conveys red fruit pies by the countryside. The acidity here is beautifully shimmery, with the tannins fine grained. This feels ridiculously easy to fall in love with, and yet at the same time carries a serious depth and saturation to it that delivers abundantly all you could ask for. The finish then holds a nice little surprised with a gourmet meatiness that offers a savouriness to balance against the richness offered thus far. This would go perfectly with a rack of lamb!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot