Domaine de Chevalier resides in almost a realm of its own - and we don't mean that in simply some sort of a romanticised metaphorical manner, it literally is nicknamed the forest garden for its lush surroundings. Nestled amidst the greenery in the south of the Pessac-Leognan area of Bordeaux, the estate is relatively secluded and certainly finds itself a good spacing away from its nearest wine-producing neighbours - and yet amidst the serenity, the estate has proved itself incredibly formidable, having seen a massive turnaround in the past three decades.

Did Someone Call For A Knight? Modest Beginnings For Chevalier.

As you might've guessed, the estate takes its name from a chevalier, more commonly known as a knight. Not all that long ago, sometime in the 18th century, the estate was first established by a man known only as Chivaley, which is itself the old Gascon word for knight.

As he had seen the gravelly land surface as the Medoc was drained, he had thus decided to begin planting the estate's first vines. Unlike its regional neighbours such as the heavily crowded Martillac chock full of wine-producing estates, or its closer-to-Bordeaux neighbours, the Haut-Brion's and Chateau Pape Clement, Domaine de Chevalier does not find itself against a backdrop of built-up environments. This isn't just a purely cosmetic difference as the surrounding forests are able to offer the Domaine a cooler microclimate - which by the way, Chevalier is one of the incredibly few estates to continue to hold the name Domaine, as opposed to the newer Chateau prefix.

Unfortunately the fate of the enterprising knight was eventually lost to time and no one really knows what became of Chivaley.

A Very Successful Takeover.

Nevertheless, the estate would find back its wine-producing roots in the mid-1800's when it came into the Ricard family's possession. The Ricard's were a family of coopers who fashioned wine barrels, and would manage the Domaine across several generations, having led to the estate's classification in the mid 1900's when the wines of the Graves area were being assessed. It was a somewhat bumpy ride under the Ricard's, and by 1983, the estate would be sold to the Bernard family, to be led by the then 23 year old Olivier Bernard.

Now the Bernard's were an incredibly influential family in the Cognac region, and have operated through successive generations the largest brandy producer that you've never heard of, Lucien Bernard & Cie - because rather than market their brandy in their own name, they produce brandy for others. The Bernard family also owns the largest French wine trading platform, Millesima, which along with the acquisition of Domaine de Chevalier, was part of the then younger generation's bid to diversify the family business.

It is said that under Olivier Bernard, Chevalier has only gotten better. The then young Olivier had made a series of astute decisions. The first of which was to retain the existing wine-making team even after acquisition, from whom he could learn everything about the estate. He would also significantly grow the estate from 14 hectares to its current size of 65 hectares of vines (120 hectares in full), and equip it with the best infrastructure, and began a long-term replanting program. Alongside adhering to organic practices, adjustments were also made to the vinification process, and additional consultants such as the well-regarded Stephane Derenoncourt was added to the roster. Today, the Domaine is said to have one of the most gorgeous architecture in the form of its circular vat room.

The Specifics

As mentioned, the estate itself exists as a single block far removed from anything in its vicinity aside from natural surroundings, and features rocky and gravelly soils that are high in minerals. This is planted with just under two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, with another one-third of Merlot, and the remaining vines being Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, a highly classic Bordeaux mix for the reds. For the white, the Domaine has got 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon - worth noting is that the estate only has 7 hectares of white varieties and has become incredibly prized for its white wines (even more so than its reds at times). Vine ages here range from 30 years old for the whites and 50 years old for the reds.

And so with all that said, today we'll be trying the estate's second wine, the 2020 L'Espirit de Chevalier, which is always a great way to waddle your feet into getting to know a producer without diving off the deep end.

L'Esprit de Chevalier Rouge 2020, Domaine de Chevalier - Review

Tasting Notes

Colour: Dark Ruby

Aroma: Opens up to aromatic wafts of tobacco, dark berry jams, blackberry and raspberry, accented by floral perfumes of rose. It’s very rich, leans darker and more earthy, whilst at the same time maintaining that freshness.

Taste: It’s fresh! It’s rich! It’s silky! Following from the nose, we’ve got those soft and silky tannins, wrapped up in aromatic tobacco leaves, filled in with raspberry and blackberry jams. There’s some floral rose notes weaving about. Medium-bodied.

Finish: Soft, plush, a very gentle receding finish of raspberry and blackberry jams. More of that earthiness in tobacco notes.

My Thoughts

Lovely richness and freshness here, it exudes elegance with those silky tannins and a great plushness of the body. I’m always such a fan of this classic Bordeaux style where it’s rich yet lifted, and here there’s that added bit of earthiness of tobacco and floral notes of roses that just takes it up another level. That said, I think it could use more energy and structure on the body to give that richness some tension and intensity. Nevertheless, this blossomed on the nose with a ready-to-go bouquet, and on the palate I’m also impressed with the cohesiveness of it all, with again such a plush finish that’s almost velvety.

A terrific great value pick for a top notch Bordeaux red! Second wines for the win!

Kanpai!

@111hotpot