"Négociant" translates to "merchant". Unlike "domaines" or "châteaux" that are winemakers who grow their own grapes and typically own expansive vineyards, the négociant model offers a rather different path to winemaking.

In Bordeaux, the term "négociant" merely implies a wine merchant. That may seem straightforward, but in the world of Burgundy wine, there's more to the story than meets the eye. In Burgundy, négociants take on multiple identities and have been a sort of “glue” for the region while shaping its wine industry for centuries.

This divergence stems from the fragmented ownership of land in Burgundy. In Bordeaux, vast, consolidated estates dominate the scene, enabling vineyard owners to manage production and marketing themselves. However, in Burgundy, a patchwork of small, fragmented vineyard parcels (this is thanks to Napoleon, but a story for another time) has historically made it difficult for individual growers to thrive independently. It was simply too much effort to market a product produced on such a small scale. This unique structure paved the way for the rise of négociants, who stepped in to bridge the gap between growers and consumers.

One of Maison Moillard's vineyards in Côte de Nuits (Source: Marshall B)

For over a century, the négociant model was the backbone of Burgundy's wine trade. These merchants, often wine blenders themselves, formed intricate networks with countless growers, sourcing wines from diverse vineyards and terroirs. This collaborative approach not only provided a lifeline for small growers who lacked the resources to market their wines effectively but also enriched the Burgundy wine landscape with a diverse range of expressions.

The rise of the négociants in Burgundy was not without controversy. Some were criticised for riding on the prestige of the Burgundy name and neglecting the quality of their wines. That said, skilled négociants were able to make a name for themselves and the most successful of négociants even blurr the lines between growers and merchants, themselves acquiring larger wine estates – these are known as négociants-éleveurs, or merchant-growers.

Maison Moillard is one of the largest and most well-known of négociants-éleveurs from the region. It was established back in 1848, when the founder Symphorien Moillard married Margueritte Grivot, whose family held significant vineyard holdings in the Côte de Nuits. In 1850, a notable Belgian lawyer en route on the Paris-Lyons-Marseilles train line stopped by to sample Moillard's wines and became so enamoured that he ordered a shipment of wines to his home. This was the house’s first-ever international sale. The moment was proudly marked by Maison Moillard as when it officially started its wine merchant journey. Interestingly, today, Belgium and other Benelux countries remain a key market for Maison Moillard.

In the decades that followed, Maison Moillard steadily expanded its vineyard holdings and network with growers, further solidifying its dual role as both négociant and éleveur. After Symphorien passed away in the 1870s, his daughter Jeanne inherited his estate which was enlarged once again when Jeanne married another vineyard owner, Maurice Thomas. Together, they constructed a new cellar in Nuits-Saint-Georges with a capacity of 1,000 barrels, designed by renowned Dijon architect Charles Suisse. Their son Charles took over the business and spent the next seven decades continuing their work.

Maison Moillard's strong connection with growers in Burgundy proved to be a lifeline during the Great Depression. The house weathered this storm and also extended loans and financial support to smaller growers during this challenging period. This not only helped many winegrowers avoid bankruptcy but also earned Moillard the affectionate nickname "Banker of Burgundy." These strong relationships allowed Moillard to continue sourcing high-quality grapes even during difficult economic times, ensuring the consistent production of exceptional wines.

By the 1970s, Maison Moillard has became a well-recognised producer in the Burgundy region. Its heartland lies in Nuits-Saint-Georges which is celebrated for its hot summers, dry autumns, and limestone-rich soils. These conditions provide an ideal environment for cultivating Pinot Noir grapes, often resulting in intense, complex red wines with remarkable depth and character.

Despite being based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, Moillard, like many other major négociants, boasts a wide portfolio of wines that run the gamut from entry-level regional wines to high-end premier cru wines from its network of growers across Burgundy. The house produces both white and red wines, primarily from Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes respectively, as well as the sparkling Crémant de Bourgogne. This is a sparkling wine made in the Traditional Method (similar to Champagne production), but is often lighter, cleaner and more fruit-forward than Champagne, with less breadiness due to a shorter period of aging on lees.

To get a better understanding of this range, I recently popped down to Wine Connection for a Moillard wine tasting led by the Export Manager of Maison Moillard, Alizé Drouet.

Moillard Crémant de Bourgogne, Brut 2022 – Review

White sparkling. Regional appellation.

We begin with a regional appellation white Crémant de Bourgogne. As we have mentioned, this has been made using the Traditional Method of secondary fermentation within a bottle, similar to how Champagne is made. The main difference is that Crémant de Bourgogne are typically aged on the lees for a shorter period of time.

This bottle has been made with grapes sourced from vineyards across Burgundy. According to Export Manager Alizé Drouet, Moillard aims to make a slightly drier Brut at about 6 to 8 grams of sugar per litre of residual sugar within the wine.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The initial aroma is delicate, reminiscent of buttery biscuits—like Scottish shortbread—before blossoming into lighter notes of green fruit: gooseberries, underripe pear, and a hint of lime zest.

Palate: Creamy and smooth with a relatively gentle effervescence. There is a slight salininty profile to the Crémant, like a dry limeade, green apple juice along with an ever so slight briny edge to the palate.

Finish: The finish unveils a sweeter side. There is an almost sweet desserty Meyer Lemon curd note on the finish, with some slightly sweet green apple slices as well, while still maintaining a pleasant tartness throughout.

My Thoughts:

I was struck by the unexpected creaminess of this crémant! This is quite a big on its silky texture - almost slippery and buttery on the tongue. It was also worth noting how the acidity beautifully evolves, starting bolder and gradually mellowing into a sweeter finish. This is a thoroughly enjoyable, approachable and solid offering from Moillard!

Moillard Montagny Premier Cru "Les Bouchots" Chardonnay, 2022 – Review

White wine. Premier Cru vineyard appellation.

Next up, we’re in for a Premier Cru treat from Montagny, an appellation that produces exclusively white wines. The grapes are Chardonnay sourced from the Les Bouchots vineyard which lies on the southern tip of the Côte Chalonnaise sub-region of southern Burgundy.

We’re told that this Chardonnay has been aged in the ratio of 9 : 1 old to new oak barrels, and aged in much larger 500 litre barrels as opposed to the standard 228 litre barrels. As I understand, the intent is to exert a much gentler oak influence to the wine and allow more fruity nuances to show.

According to Alizé, to enhance complexity, this batch of Chardonnay undergoes more malolactic fermentation within its oak barrels. This process converts some of the magic acid to lactic acid, softening the overall acidity of the while offering a softer and creamier lactic acid aroma that might remind us of dairy. Let’s give it a taste.

Tasting Notes

Nose: The first impression is an earthy aroma, reminding me of wet clay and perhaps wet terracotta left to dry under the sun. This starts to open up to tons of juicy sweet red apples, hints of peach, Granny Smith apple pie and even a fleeting hint of passionfruit.

Palate: An initial burst of ripe gooseberries and sliced, slightly oxidised pear shifts towards a medley of tropical and stone fruits. Interestingly, there is also a subtle musky sweetness of musk melons that transitions towards a lovely and sweet fresh apricot note that takes over the palate.

Finish: The wine dries on the finish, with the musk melon sweetness and apricot notes gradually yielding to brighter, fleshier notes of peach and soft apples.

My Thoughts:

The big kicker for me here is that apricot flavour - never had I ever had a Chardonnay with such a unique apricot sweetness!

I absolutely enjoyed the punchiness of the aromas and taste – its really generous in flavour and doesn't shy from expressing its full range. The malolactic fermentation seems to be at work here, contributing to a much smoother sweetness and gentler acidity that I find quite enjoyable. The finish did feel a tad short, but this is nonetheless a delicious and intriguing Chardonnay.

Moillard Bourgogne Chardonnay, Prestige 2021 – Review

White wine, Elevé en fûts (Aged in oak barrels), Regional Appellation.

Next up, we have yet another Chardonnay. I'm told that this label is typically aged in oak for a longer period of time (after vinification in a steel vat) and is intended to carry slightly more oakiness.   

Tasting Notes

Nose: This wine has a stonier, mineral aroma with more green fragrances here. I get a slight vegetal note of capsicums and just a hint of celery stalks, which is underpinned by freshly plucked wildflowers. There is a hint of general toastiness on the aroma, like apple wood smoke.

Palate: There is a definite oakiness that makes itself present here. I get a lightly toasted brioche bun - there is that slight char from the toasted corners of the slice, but together with it a melted butter aroma as well. The fruitiness here this time is much more complimentary than dominating, in particular, like apples, pears and some light underripe peaches.

Finish: Green apple tartness slowly emerges as it unfurls from the still-very-toasty, woody finish. The flavours could be akin to inhaling the smoke of smoked cherry wood or oak, while carrying that slight sweet and spicy flavour of freshly grated nutmeg.

My Thoughts:

Great stuff once again! Oak Chardonnay lovers will definitely enjoy this one. This is an unabashedly oaky Chardonnay, and yet with good overall balance. Tons of toasted brioche taking centre stage while sweet fruitiness and tart flavours offer a counterpoint and a nice touch of complexity and break from all those smoky, woody flavours. 

Moillard Bourgogne Pinot Noir, Prestige 2022 – Review

Red wine, Elevé en fûts (Aged in oak barrels), Regional Appellation.

Let's turn to a Burgundy classic now with the Pinot Noir, sourced from vineyards across the region.  

Tasting Notes

Nose: You get a deep, earthy, fermented Pu'er tea and Ceylon red tea aroma on the nose, leaning towards the aged tea category. There is some mushroominess as well, akin to freshly plucked white button mushrooms. Some more swirling and oxidation seems to bring out juicy dark cherry aromas that take over the tea-like aromas.

Palate: The initial impression is rather intense, with equal parts astringent tea and dark fruits. You get black plum and prune flavours, tannins from the skin and all, alongside a side character of dark cherry. There's also more tea aromas, like chewing on a piece of Pu'er tea leaf or leaf stalk.

Finish: Astringency lingers on the finish, though with less intensity. Bitter tea notes eventually transition towards sweeter jammy dark cherry flavours.

My Thoughts:

The complexity of the aroma is really quite something - it smells very much of tea from the start, before really fading away after perhaps 10-12 minutes.

This does seem a bit shy at first, but a bit of swirling and oxidation reveals very intense and enjoyable red and dark fruit flavours. It helps to find the right balance of oxidation where the fruits just start to match the intensity of the tea flavours and aromas. Don't rush and dismiss this wine too quickly at the start, give it some time and see how it evolves - and you'll find your sweet spot! 

Despite the tannins and astringency, this wine does have a very "fresh" feel to it. Perhaps, a bit of bottle aging would really reveal this wine's full potential.   

Moillard Nuits-Saint-Georges Pinot Noir, Vieilles Vignes 2022 – Review

Red wine. Village appellation.

Our final bottle is a Pinot Noir of village appellation, with grapes sourced from the Nuits-Saint-Georges town. This wine is vinified in stainless steel before being partially aged in oak for 12 months.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Big, powerful aromas of baking spice and borderline overripe red and black fruits on the nose. I get cinnamon sticks, juicy red and black plums, and some sour strawberries. After a bit of swirling, some toasted butter toast begins to emerge, alongside a sprinkle of ground clove powder.

Palate: Deep and dense, with a much sweeter, fruitier profile. I get a bit of liquorice swirls at first, before getting ripened, slightly bruised black plums and dark cherries. I also got a bit of Chinese five spice powder. A bit of swirling and oxidation eventually brings out baked dark fruits, evocative of  cherry pie filling.

Finish: Evolves towards a more tannic, drying finish. The sweetness starts to taper off, giving out flavours of cooked dark fruits (think of the dark cherry feeling in baked pies and cookies). There is also a satisfying savouriness that shows itself more here, a bit like a light mushroom broth that intermingles with the fruit flavours.

My Thoughts:

Really big and powerful for a Pinot Noir, but certainly still very well balanced in offering respectable ffreshness and acidity. It's dominated by sweeter fruit flavours, while having a counter point of baking spices.

Given how satisfyingly sweet and intense this bottle is, I imagine this would be a hit even with casual French wine drinkers, especially those who are new to Burgundy. Burgundy connoisseurs would also something to love within the nuances, complexity and finesse of it - with several dimensions pretty well-integrated.

Final Thoughts: 

This has been a lovely exploration such a diverse range at Maison Moillard! 

I've always been a fan of reds, yet the most impressive wine here for me at this tasting was a white. My favourite pick was none other than the Montagny Premier Cru "Les Bouchots" Chardonnay for its nuances and surprisingly playful apricot notes. My second favourite is the Nuits-Saint-Georges Pinot Noir for its finesse and jammy intensity that reminded me of cherry pie filling. Both bottles were so flavour-forward in way that seems to subvert the reputation that we've come to expect of the Burgundy region. 

I should also note that the Bourgogne Chardonnay Prestige which sits on the other end of the spectrum as an oaky Chardonnay is also pretty appealing for oak Chardonnay enthusiasts. Given their reputation for offering some fresh and fruity wines, this oaky offering is also a solid job from Moillard!

@CharsiuCharlie