Many a traditional Domaine is housed in unassuming, centuries-old buildings, tucked away along quiet streets like the Rue du Tribourg in Nuits-St-Georges. Unlike the grand châteaux of Bordeaux or the sprawling estates of Napa Valley, Burgundy is characterised by a multitude of small, family-run domaines often just a few hectares in size – this fragmentation a direct result of centuries of inheritance laws under the Napoleonic Code, which mandated the equal division of property among heirs.

Domaine Faiveley, however, stands quite apart. It has an imposing vat room several stories high with light streaming through gothic arched windows, and a cavernous cellar with vaulted ceilings and seemingly endless rows of oak barrels that hint at a scale rarely seen in Burgundy – even many Bordeaux châteaux pale in comparison. Founded in 1825 by Pierre Faiveley, Domaine Faiveley began as a wine merchant business. Interestingly, the same family's entrepreneurial spirit extended beyond wine; the family would later play a significant role in the railway industry with the multinational Faiveley Transport.

In the early days, Faiveley operated primarily as a négociant, sourcing grapes from various growers to produce wine under their own label. Recognising the importance of vineyard ownership for quality, Faiveley acquired its first plot in 1834.

What’s impressive about Faiveley’s story is that while many Burgundian domaines have been progressively subdivided through inheritance, Faiveley has managed to keep its estate intact. Over the course of some 190 years, each generation has not only preserved the family legacy but also made strategic investments in new vineyards, culminating in the staggering 150 hectares they own today. This makes them one of the largest vineyard holders in Burgundy, with an enviable collection of Grands Crus, Premiers Crus, and village-level vineyards, producing both red and white wines – most of their vineyards located in prestigious Cru appellations in Cote Chalonnaise, Cote de Beaune, and Cote de Nuits. Today, Domaine Faiveley is owned and managed by the seventh generation, siblings Erwan and Eve Faiveley.

During the 1990s, influential critics like Robert Parker championed powerful, structured wines with firm tannins. This preference shaped the style of many Burgundy producers, including Domaine Faiveley, whose wines during that period were often described as dark, dense, and extracted. Ironically, it was Parker himself who later faced legal action from François Faiveley, Erwan's father, for allegations of differing wine quality between domestic and export markets, a case that ultimately settled in Faiveley's favour.

Perhaps this brief episode with critics emboldened Faiveley to take the winery in a different direction when Erwan assumed leadership. While he was building upon the foundations laid by their ancestors, Erwan sought a balance between tradition and modernity. Erwan believed that the world of wine, like fashion, is subject to evolving tastes and preferences – perhaps just more gradual. He perceived a shift from the palate of Paker – a growing appreciation for wines with less extraction, emphasizing finesse, elegance and silky textures, and decided that it was crucial to reinterpret the domaine's style, to capture the true essence of Pinot Noir with a focus on purity and texture. To achieve this, Erwan enlisted the expertise of industry veteran Bernard Hervé, formerly at the helm of Bouchard Père et Fils. Together, they embarked on a transformative journey to refine the domaine's winemaking practices.

One of the key changes was a move away from the use of pumps, which can extract harsher tannins, towards a gravity-flow system. This gentler approach preserves the delicate aromas and flavors of the grapes, resulting in wines with greater freshness and elegance, with approachability in their youth, but still have the structure and complexity to age gracefully.

Erwan also streamlined the domaine's portfolio, reducing the number of wines produced and placing a greater emphasis on estate-grown fruit. While respecting the négociant tradition, he has shifted the focus towards Domaine Faiveley's own vineyards, allowing for greater control over quality and a clearer expression of their unique terroirs. Today, Domaine Faiveley obtains 80% of its fruit from its own vineyards and sources the rest as a négociant.

Sustainability in the vineyard is another cornerstone of Erwan’s vision. The entire estate is currently undergoing organic conversion. In recent decades, Burgundy has faced the growing threat of climate change, with warmer temperatures leading to faster ripening and potential imbalances in sugar and acidity levels. Faiveley proactively adapted its viticultural practices, employing a team of 70 skilled workers to tends to the vines, manage foliage and topsoil. During shorter growing seasons, when harvest needs to be completed quickly, the domaine resourcefully employs students as temporary workers, ensuring that the grapes are picked at their optimal ripeness.

Vinification takes place in-house at Domaine Faiveley's main winery in Nuits-Saint-Georges. For their Côte Chalonnaise wines, a dedicated facility was opened in 2016 near the vineyards, allowing for minimal transportation and preserving the freshness of the grapes.

With this understanding of Domaine Faiveley's rich history and its recent evolution under Erwan Faiveley's leadership, we can now turn our attention to the wines themselves. I recently had the pleasure of tasting four bottles from Faiveley that offer a glimpse into the domaine's diverse range – two regional wines, a village-level appellation and a Premier Cru. Let's see how they hold up.

Faiveley Bourgogne Chardonnay 2022 (Regional Appellation) – Review

100% Chardonnay

The first wine of our tasting is a white 100% Chardonnay which represents the entry point into Domaine Faiveley's range. This regional appellation is made with a blend of fruit sourced from partner vineyards and the domaine's own holdings. The wine undergoes fermentation in stainless steel tanks for 8 to 10 months, with a small portion aged on fine lees in oak barrels.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Well-integrated and citrusy aroma intertwined with the sweetness of yellow passionfruit. It's quite fruity and generous, showcasing a medley of tropical fruits alongside a distinct minerality and a bright lemon zest. There's a dryness and an interesting hint of yeastiness and breadiness reminiscent of Champagne. A subtle note of French butter.

Palate: Opens very crisp, but the wine quickly evolves into a full-bodied experience with a lovely, oily texture. It unfolds softly on the palate, revealing a thick, almost velvety texture. Fruity notes of soft citrus, like white pomelo and grapefruit, dominate, complemented by a layer of steely minerality. There’s a touch of lactose note along with a hint of toasted nuts. Some spices, citrus zest and mustiness emerges towards the end.

Finish: Characterised by light toastiness, a hint of vanilla, and a lingering breadiness. A subtle note of honey-coated toast.

My Thoughts:

This is a remarkably soft and rounded Chardonnay that is incredibly easy to drink. The viscous, almost syrupy texture is quite appealing, and the wine exhibits very generous ripeness despite its relative youth – it's surprisingly rich and flavourful for an entry range Bourgogne Chardonnay. It’s got a lovely structure with balanced fruitiness, a solid backbone of minerality and a creamy oily texture that keeps it memorable.

Faiveley Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022 (Regional Appellation) – Review

100% Pinot Noir

Next up, we check out another entry range regional appellation red wine – the Faiveley Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022. This 100% Pinot Noir is crafted from grapes harvested manually from various vineyards, primarily located in the Côte de Nuits. The winemaking follows traditional methods, with fermentation taking place in temperature-controlled stainless steel tanks, and a portion of the cuvée aged in French oak barrels in the cellars of Nuits-Saint-Georges.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Remarkably clean and fruity, presenting a delightful array of soft red fruits. Ripe raspberries and cranberries take center stage, accompanied by delicate floral notes of violets and a lovely, distinguished earthiness reminiscent of forest floor, moss, and lightly sautéed mushrooms. Very generous and flavourful.

Palate: Surprising fullness for its level, with a well-defined structure provided by fine tannins and a light acidity. Touch of earthiness complements the core of red fruit flavours, where red cherries and raspberries shine through, quickly balanced by the subtle presence of earthiness and tannins.

Finish: Fairly short, with a very light touch of tannins. Notes of tobacco box, vanilla and a hint of black tea. A touch of dark chocolate bitterness along with tannins that, though present, don't overpower the palate.

My Thoughts:

This is a solid Bourgogne Pinot Noir that offers excellent value. It's quite full-bodied for its category and displays a pleasing balance of fruit, tannins, and acidity. The wine is very easy to drink and pairs well with a variety of foods, thanks to its vibrant fruit character. I always enjoy such an evocative nose, with its enticing floral and earthy notes. While enjoyable now, I’d say this wine could benefit from a bit more aging to develop further complexity to reveal more pronounced earthy and aromatic nuances and even silkier tannins.

Faiveley Bourgogne Chambolle-Musigny 2022 (Village Appellation) – Review

100% Pinot Noir

This red Burgundy hails from the Chambolle-Musigny village within the Côte de Nuits subregion, an area renowned for producing elegant and perfumed Pinot Noir wines. The vineyards in Chambolle-Musigny are characterized by a mix of clay and limestone soils, which contribute to the finesse and minerality of the wines while providing excellent drainage. The relatively shallow topsoil in this area helps maintain a delicate balance and structure in the wines.

Tasting Notes

Nose: A captivating and layered combination of rich red fruit aromas, with raspberries and cherries at the forefront – similar to what we’ve already experienced but supported by a more maturity. Hints of raisins and dried plums add depth, along with tertiary notes of vellichor, antique wood, potpourri, vanilla, and sweet oak.

Palate: Elegant and distinguished, the palate opens with a burst of red fruits, including wine-soaked cherries, and a subtle umami character reminiscent of aged balsamic vinegar. A prominent backbone of lively, tart fruit acidity that provides excellent balance with the fruits. A touch of warmth and light cinnamon spice emerges on the mid-palate. Delicate floral notes of violets and potpourri emerging towards the end.

Finish: Long and layered, with a touch of malolactic creaminess, vanilla, and a hint of leather. Fine, powdery tannins provide a gentle grip.

My Thoughts:

This Chambolle-Musigny is a beautifully complex and evolving wine that exemplifies the elegance and finesse of its appellation. It’s just a masterful balance of ripeness and freshness, showcasing evocative floral notes and a lively acidity that lifts the fruit. It's remarkably refined and complex yet remains very approachable and easy to drink thanks to its impressive structure and vibrant acidity. Tannins are ever present here but they’re really fine grained and never overstep their boundaries. A fantastic exemplar of Chambolle-Musigny that would only get more impressive with several years of cellaring.

Domaine Faiveley Volnay Fremiets Premier Cru 2018 (Premier Cru) – Review

100% Pinot Noir

Finally, we arrive at the Domaine Faiveley Volnay Fremiets Premier Cru 2018, the only "Domaine" wine in our tasting, signifying that it is made exclusively from grapes grown in the domaine's own vineyards. This Premier Cru hails from the Les Frémiets vineyard in the village of Volnay, situated in the Côte de Beaune subregion. Interestingly, Volnay is often considered the Côte de Beaune counterpart to Chambolle-Musigny, known for its wines that exhibit finesse, floral aromatics, and silky textures.

The soils in Volnay, primarily composed of limestone and marl with good drainage, contribute to these characteristics. The particular parcel has greater concentration of iron oxide in soil, which gives the wine a much richer profile.

Domaine Faiveley harvests their Volnay grapes early to preserve the terroir's distinctive elegance and soft tannins.

Tasting Notes

Nose: Captivating rich red fruits with remarkable depth. Opens with violets and heady potpourri, and slightly tart red fruits like plums and brambles. Notes of vanilla, a hint of espresso or mocha, and a tertiary touch of vellichor, subtle earthiness with a touch of tobacco.

Palate: Wow - the entry is incredibly smooth, revealing an exquisite refinement of tannins. An impressive concentration of red fruit flavors unfolds on the palate, showcasing raspberries, plums, light brambles and a hint of wine gums. Very rich and fleshy fruits but not overly ripe, so beautifully balanced by mild espresso and tobacco notes. The tannins are incredibly fine-grained, giving the wine this overall elegance and seamless texture.

Finish: Long and lingering, with fading notes of brambles that leave a pleasant impression on the palate.

My Thoughts:

This is without a doubt my favourite wine of today’s tasting - a true pleasure to drink. It’s so complex and captivating – the most striking feature is the exceptional quality and refinement of its tannins, which are incredibly smooth and well-integrated. It's a rich, juicy and fleshy wine with a generous character and fantastic concentration, with very precisely balanced acidity. The fine-grained tannins elevate give this a satisfying body and structure.

@CharsiuCharlie