Just as international demand for rich, bold wines increased in the 1980s and 1990s, Amarone (or in full “Amarone della Valpolicella”) ascended the ranks of Italian wine aristocracy alongside Barolo and Brunello as some of the most popular Italian reds.

Amarone’s roots entwine with the fascinating ancient Roman tradition of crafting Recioto, a luscious, sweet wine made from grapes dried to concentrate their sugars and flavors. The exact origins of Amarone isn’t clear but rumor has it that it was serendipitously discovered by an Italian winemaker in the 1950s when he absentmindedly left a batch of Recioto to ferment longer than intended. The diligent yeast, given extra time, consumed all the residual sugar, transforming the sweet wine into a dry and incredibly powerful bold wine we know today as Amarone.

At the forefront of Amarone production is Masi Agricola, one of the most renowned producers of the style today. The estate is nestled in Valpolicella Classica, Veneto of northern Italy, and takes its name from "Vaio dei Masi", the small valley purchased by the Boscaini family back in 1772. The estate is known for its innovativeness and mastery of the iconic Appassimento method of drying grapes to concentrate their flavours, and is was even credited for inventing an offshoot method of winemaking known as ‘Ripasso.’

However, it was the work of Sandro Boscaini, the sixth-generation owner who took the helm in 1978, that propelled Masi to international acclaim.

As alluded earlier, the appassimento method is central of Masi’s winemaking. This involves carefully laying freshly harvested grapes on bamboo racks in well-ventilated lofts to dry, concentrating their flavours, sugar, and acidity. A range of grapes are used, but they are primarily Corvina, picked at peak ripeness and dried for up to 120 days.

Interestingly, something remarkable happens to the internal metabolic state of these grapes during appassimento. Despite being detached from the vine, the cells remain alive for some time and they continue to interact with their environment. After about 60 days, specific genes activate within the grapes, altering their sugar composition and boosting the production of protective compounds like polyphenols and antioxidants. This results in grapes that are even riper and more complex than before.

Perhaps envious of the popularity of Barolo and Brunello wines, Sandro sought to elevate the status of Amarone further. He realized that to achieve this, he needed to make a fresher and more lush wine by challenging some of the traditional Amarone-making practices passed down through generations, starting with the grape harvest itself.

Sandro first sought to prevent overripening of the grapes as they are left to dry on racks for close to four months. So, he decided to do implement an earlier harvest by picking the grapes slightly earlier, a day or two before their peak ripeness. This helped the grapes retain optimal freshness throughout the appassimento period.

Next, Sandro turned his attention to the entire winemaking process, aiming to minimize oxidation wherever he can. One of the measures he took was to, perhaps unintuitively, reduce fermentation time.

Longer fermentation times are often hailed by alcohol producers as a process that creates lots of flavour and complexity in whisky and beer. However, in Amarone’s case, the yeast requires a much longer time to work through the semi-dried grapes that contain a high sugar concentration, and the fermentation process could last 50-60 days. Sandro recognized that this long period of time contributed to excessive oxidation and decided to speed things up a little. To combat this, he isolated several yeast strains of the Saccharomyces cerevisiae family that that fermented dried grapes much more efficiently, reducing the fermentation time to 35-45 days. This helps to create a fresher, more vibrant Amarone.

After years of experimentation, Sandro was finally satisfied with his new Amarone in 1983. Her found that it burst with ripe fruits, intensity and yet retains a great deal of freshness and finesse. This groundbreaking style of Amarone stunned people when Sandro entered it into the VinItaly competition in 1987. This helped usher in a new era for Amarone and its increased popularity in the 1990s and beyond.

Masi has continued to innovate into the 21^st century, now tackling a challenge that has become increasingly significant for winemakers worldwide: climate change. Extreme weather patterns can disrupt the delicate appassimento process, making it difficult to achieve consistent results across vintages. To address this, Masi developed a computer system it calls NASA (Natural Appassimento Super Assisted) which monitors and adjusts the drying environment, controlling factors like temperature, humidity, and ventilation in the drying lofts. NASA helps to mitigate the risk of mould and effectively recreates the optimal climatic conditions of past legendary vintages. While the system is only employed in periods of extreme weather, it serves as an invaluable tool to safeguard the quality and consistency of Masi's Amarone.

The Flagship Costasera Amarone

Masi's flagship wine and arguably most sought-after series is the Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Often considered a benchmark example of age-worthy Amarone, it is said to encapsulate the elegance and power that this style can achieve.

The name "Costasera" translates to "evening hillside", a poetic reference to the quality grapes harvested from vineyards located on the western slopes of the valley. These slopes bask in the afternoon sun, allowing the grapes to reach optimal ripeness and develop a beautiful complexity of aromas and flavours.

The premium Riserva Costasera Amarone elevates the iconic wine even further by undergoing a slightly longer appassimento period and being aged for at least three years in cherry wood casks. The blend typically includes Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara – indigenous grape varieties – but is often enriched with dark fruits and spice of Oseleta, a rare grape variety that Masi proudly claims to have rediscovered.

Inventing Ripasso wines

Masi Agricola's innovation didn’t stop with Amarone. In 1964, they launched a completely new style of wine, one that is said to bridge the gap between everyday Valpolicella wines and the opulent Amarone. The result was Campofiorin, a wine made using a unique refermentation process.

Repurposed wine must.

The innovative technique of refermentation, now known as Ripasso, involves adding the pomace (skins) of dried grapes from Amarone production to new vats of wine that has already undergone its initial fermentation. After 12-15 days of the initial fermentation, semi-dried grapes, still brimming with concentrated sugars and flavours, are added to the vats of fresh wine. This triggers a second fermentation, enriching the wine with some of the complexity and depth of Amarone, while retaining a vibrant freshness and approachability.

Masi initially registered the name "Ripasso" for this process, but later handed it over to the Italian Chamber of Commerce, allowing other producers to utilize this technique and further elevate the reputation of Valpolicella wines. Campofiorin, with its balance between approachability and complexity is now one of the most widely-sold and well known IGT wines in Italy.

Masi's most acclaimed Campofiorin bottling is the Brolo Campofiorin that beautifully showcases the Ripasso method. Not to be confused with “Barolo”, "Brolo" issimilar to the French term "Clos", and refers to a walled vineyard.

Masi's labels does not bother clarifying that it is a Ripasso, because they were the same folks who invented the style!

This wine is crafted primarily from Corvina, Rondinella, and Oseleta grapes before undergoing double fermentation of the Ripasso method and being aged in small oak casks. The result is a wine said to be fresh, complex and still very approachable.

Let’s give both these wines a taste!

Masi Brolo Campofiorin Oro Rosso Del Veronese IGT, 2019 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Really lush and fruity! Opens with a luscious, thick red fruit jamminess on the nose, reminding me of overripe red and black berries. There's just a hint of hay with a rustic, farmyard funk, reminiscent of old whiskies like Brora, along with a bit of that rich, aged soy sauce nuttiness. Great depth and incredibly aromatic.

Palate: I’m struck by just how fresh this is. The wine enters with a crisp, fresh and luscious feel to it. Think berry flavoured wine gums. It's very chewy, with dominant flavours of black fruits like plums and dark cherries. Tannins are present but very smooth, balanced by a lively acidity and the crispness of a pinot noir.

There's a touch of vanilla, and just a hint of cinnamon spice slowly building on the tannins. It's a flavourful wine with a nice dry acidic backbone and prominent tannins, yet it remains so fresh, so easy to drink, and just refreshing throughout. The finesse is remarkable.

Finish: Fairly short, leaving me a lasting impression of slate minerality and some firm prevailing tannins, firm but not overly grippy or overwhelming. There's also a touch of cinnamon and cocoa powder lingering.

My Thoughts:

It’s easy to see why this is one of Italy’s best sold IGT wines. It’s flavourful, versatile and offers everything upfront without demanding much work from the drinker.

The Campofiorin really does deliver on its promise of bridging the gap between everyday wines and the more opulent Amarone. It has the fruitiness of an Amarone, but with a freshness, crispness and approachability that makes it very enjoyable to drink, even on a warm day. The balance is spot on and it could pair with many dishes from richer red meats to even grilled seafoods. This is the OG Ripasso style after all, so anyone looking to explore it might as well start with Masi.

My Rating: 88/10

Masi Riserva Costasera Amarone Classico, 2017 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Thick, jammy fruits dominate the nose, once again those overripe cherries and raspberries, now with a sweetness and ripeness that pushes towards a magic marker-like aroma. Sweet oak nuances intertwine with aromatic notes of light tobacco and dark chocolate. A rather complex and layered bouquet.

Palate: Rich, luscious, structured and spiced. Opens with a smooth cascade both red and dark stewed fruits and warm gentle spices. Cherries and raspberry pie, raisins, dried plums and some cassia. Compared to the Campofiorin, it feels fuller and less tart with a heavier body and a thick, velvety texture.

As it develops, the fruitiness begins to shift towards a crisper profile, reminiscent of fresh blackcurrant cordial (think Ribena). A balanced oakiness emerges on the back palate, accented by subtle touches of wood polish and leather.

Finish: Fairly short, leaving us a lingering impression of dark fruits, light tannins and some mild cinnamon warmth felt on the back of the throat. There’re also some notes of new car leather. All this eventually gives way to an aftertaste of liquorice and mint.

My Thoughts:

My tasting companion described this wine as "red velvet cake in a glass," and I think that’s an apt description. The lusciousness of the fruit is beautifully balanced by a mild acidity and complex, firm tannins and spices.

What truly impresses me, though, is the structure and balance it exhibits for an Amarone. The tannins are smooth but firm, providing a backbone to the wine beautifully compliments the rich fruitiness, helping it stay grounded. The extended barrel ageing has contributed some aromatic oak and spice notes which are very welcome too.

Fragrant on the nose and bursting with rich fruit on the palate, this wine is incredibly satisfying. It would pair wonderfully with some pungent cheeses!

My Rating: 90/10

Final Thoughts

Oof, I’m duly impressed by Masi! Both wines are really excellent examples of their respective styles, so there’s no direct comparison.

The Campofiorin showcases immediate gratification and exceptional value. It’s crisp and so fruity and flavourful, with a very evocative nose (I enjoy that barnyard funk). The quality and complexity is far beyond what I expected considering its price. It is a versatile wine that can be enjoyed with a range of dishes, and given the tropical climate I live in, I found myself gravitating to this wine pretty often.

The Costasera Amarone Riserva on the other hand, showcases just the power, complexity and unpretentiousness we’ve come to be accustomed with Amarone, but also has a great balance and firm structure that sets this apart from the average Amarone in the market. It is one of the best quality Amarones I’ve come across.

I’m not going to call a verdict between these two – there’ll always be a time and place for either or both of them! 

@CharsiuCharlie