This is Qingtongxia, a quiet city situated in the remote northwestern region of China, tucked between the Helan Mountain range of Ningxia and the steppes of Inner Mongolia.

It's hard to picture now, but cast your mind back to the early 1990s, and these arid foothills were scarcely tipped as the future heartland of Chinese fine wine. This region felt more suited to sheep pastures and cultivating goji berries than vineyards. The climate is extreme – summers can push past 35°C, while winters are punishing, frequently seeing temperatures drop to –25°C or even –27°C. These aren't typically conditions one associates with textbook viticulture. Yet despite these challenges, some in China believed that once the critical issues of irrigation and protecting vines through winter are addressed, this environment held distinct advantages for growing quality grapes.

The high elevation, typically between 1,000 and 1,200 metres, ensures cool nights, which are crucial for preserving acidity and aromatic complexity in the grapes. Furthermore, the dry air and low humidity create an environment with minimal risk of fungal diseases like mildew and rot. Coupled with abundant sunshine – often exceeding 3,000 hours annually – the conditions are actually quite favourable for achieving full phenolic ripeness in grapes. It's a combination of factors strikingly similar to those found in acclaimed regions like Mendoza in Argentina. The potential wasn't lost on the government, which realised that with substantial infrastructural investment, Ningxia could potentially cultivate high value crops or fruits and perhaps even lift this region out of poverty.

Thus began a government-spearheaded initiative in the late 1990s which focused on the eastern foothills of Helan Mountain. The desert landscape stretching between the mountains and the vital Yellow River was irrigated, transforming barren land into arable plots. Cover crops were planted to improve the naturally salty, alkaline soils, gradually building organic matter and improving soil structure, and significant earthmoving work literally reshaped the land into fertile parcels. Finally, wine grapes were chosen as a high-value crop suited to these arid, sunny climates.

Thousands of hectares of vines were planted – at the core of which were classic Bordeaux grape varieties. Cabernet Sauvignon, for its international prestige and a unique local grape variety known as Cabernet Gernischt– its origins somewhat mysterious but later found to be genetically linked to Carmenère.

By the turn of the millennium, Ningxia’s vineyards, once obscure, started gaining national recognition. A cluster of pioneering wineries began to emerge, joining the solitary Xi Xia King, which had been established earlier. By the early 2000s, a wave of new 'chateaux' had appeared, often encouraged by enthusiastic local officials who provided support through land allocation, infrastructure development and marketing assistance, viewing the wine industry as a potential driver of economic growth and regional prestige. Fast forward to the mid-2010s, and Ningxia’s Helan Mountain wine region was vibrant with potential, though still relatively young and seeking figures who could elevate it further.

Enter Zhang Yanzhi, a former wine merchant with significant experience, notably having handled millions of dollars' worth of Penfolds wines for the Chinese market. This background gave him insights into distribution, branding, and consumer preferences within China. Zhang had studied oenology in Bordeaux, even gaining experience at the revered Château Pétrus, one of the most prestigious and expensive wines in the world.

Armed with international experience and local market knowledge, Zhang moved into winemaking with ambitious plans. In 2017, he acquired 1,000 hectares of mature vineyards – around 20–30 years of age – in Ningxia, situated at the foothills of the Helan Mountains. In the nascent Chinese wine industry, vines of this age are a genuine rarity that could produce grapes with greater concentration and complexity. Zhang recognised their immense value early on, knowing that these old vines would be a cornerstone of his project's quality aspirations.

With this foundational asset, Zhang launched Xige Estate. The name translates to "West Dove" ("Xi Ge"), referencing the local Dove Mountain area. He envisioned an estate built on a different model from many existing boutique Ningxia wineries. Inspired by global pioneers like California's Robert Mondavi and Spain's Torres – both families known for building respected international brands that successfully combine significant production scale with consistent quality – Zhang aimed to demonstrate that Ningxia could produce fine wine in substantial volumes. This contrasted with the prevailing trend of boutique wineries focused on small production levels. Zhang's goal was larger: to establish a major Chinese wine brand synonymous with Ningxia's unique terroir and capable of competing on a bigger stage. He explicitly mentioned wanting to influence how Chinese wines are produced and marketed, aiming for the scale and international acclaim of producers such as Robert Mondavi and Torres.

To achieve such fame, Xige couldn’t simply try to replicate Bordeaux or Napa styles. Instead, the focus would be on expressing the distinct character of Helan Mountain. A key element of this identity, in Zhang’s view, was Cabernet Gernischt. At a time when some producers were focusing solely on the more internationally recognised Cabernet Sauvignon or experimenting with fashionable imports like Marselan, Zhang championed this unusual varietal. He argued that embracing a unique, memorable grape variety is vital for establishing the identity not just of a winery, but potentially of a whole region or country on the global wine map. Cabernet Gernischt wine thus became a signature variety for Xige Estate.

Leveraging his prior experience as a merchant, Zhang understood the critical importance of effective marketing and distribution right from the start. He worked to secure strong sales channels, positioned the wines strategically in the market, and crafted a brand story that connected with the increasing curiosity among Chinese consumers of domestically produced wine. This preparation paid off spectacularly. When Xige released its first vintage in 2017, it achieved remarkable commercial success: over one million bottles, encompassing fine wine ranges priced between roughly ¥100 and ¥500 (US$15–75), sold out within a year in spite of the initial disruptions of the COVID-19 pandemic. Zhang had correctly judged that China’s expanding middle class was increasingly receptive to high-quality local wines, provided they offered the right combination of value, quality and compelling narrative.

The physical manifestation of Xige Estate matches the scale of its founder's vision. In 2019, the estate inaugurated its cutting-edge winery. It's a substantial complex, covering 28,000 square metres (around seven acres under roof), presenting a striking, modern facade against the backdrop of the Helan Mountain foothills.

Currently, Xige manages extensive vineyard holdings that total over 2,133 hectares across the eastern Helan Mountain area, incorporating the initial 1,000 hectares of older vines. Overseeing vineyards of this magnitude in Ningxia's challenging continental climate demands a careful marriage of traditional knowledge and modern technology. The viticultural team invested heavily in rehabilitating these mature plots through meticulous pruning, appropriate trellising systems, and attentive care throughout the growing season.

One particularly forward-thinking aspect of the operation is Xige’s "Smart Agriculture" system. In the winery's main hall, a large electronic screen displays real-time data streamed from sensors distributed across the vineyard blocks, monitoring variables like soil moisture levels, air and soil temperatures, sunlight intensity, wind speed, and even tracking vine growth stages. The viticulture team also uses the system to fine-tune vineyard management decisions – such as irrigation schedules, canopy adjustments, and pinpointing optimal harvest times – specific to the needs of each parcel, thereby enhancing both quality and consistency across their large production. Reflecting a commitment to the region's overall advancement, Xige Estate shared this data with neighbouring wineries to collectively lift the quality standard in Ningxia.

Still, viticulture in Ningxia inevitably involves grappling with the climate's extremes. As late autumn approaches, the severe cold looms. Like every grower in Ningxia, Xige must undertake the demanding annual task of burying its vine canes for winter protection. After the harvest concludes, canes are pruned back, and each vine is carefully bent downwards and covered with a layer of 20-30 cm of earth to shield it from the lethal subzero temperatures. Given Xige’s vast acreage, this represents a massive logistical undertaking each year. The estate employs large teams and utilises mechanised tools to manage the process efficiently, yet it remains a period of intense work every autumn to bury the vines and again every spring to uncover them.

Water management is another constant challenge. Despite the Yellow River's proximity, Ningxia itself receives very little annual rainfall, typically around 200 mm. Xige employs drip irrigation systems, applying water strategically based on data from their soil moisture sensors, which indicate precisely when and how much water is needed for individual vineyard blocks. Lastly, the combination of high altitude and strong sunlight means grapes tend to develop thick skins – advantageous for extracting colour and tannins, but also increasing the risk of sunburn on the berries. Thus, the viticulture team manages the vine canopy carefully, adjusting leaf cover to provide dappled shade for the grape clusters during the hottest parts of the summer, balancing the need for sunlight for ripening against the risk of sun damage.

Zhang’s team actively explores Ningxia's potential with new grape varieties. Since 2017, Xige has established hundreds hectares of new plantings beyond the original old-vine plots. They are trialling more than 20 different varieties, including familiar international names like Malbec and Syrah, the increasingly popular Marselan, and even less common grapes like Dunkelfelder.

Inside the winery, Zhang Yanzhi and his winemaking team operate under what they term the "Xige 3126 Winemaking Principle". This denotes a general rule of thumb of 3 months of fermentation (including both alcoholic fermentation and malolactic fermentation), followed by 12 months of ageing in oak barrels, and finally 6 months of bottle ageing before release.

Fermentation protocols are adapted based on the grape variety and the intended wine style. For Xige's premium bottlings, such as their single-vineyard Cabernet Gernischt or the flagship blend, smaller fermentation tanks (ranging from 1 to 5 tons) are often used that employ gravity flow to move the grapes and must. Top wines typically spend between 12 and 18 months maturing in oak barrels. French oak is favoured, sourced from respected coopers like Seguin Moreau and Taransaud, though a small percentage of American oak is sometimes incorporated for its distinct spice notes.

For example, the premium 2019 Jade Dove single-vineyard Cabernet Gernischt saw 12 months in oak, composed of 90% French and 10% American barrels. Xige’s Grand Vin, conceived as their top Bordeaux-style blend, generally undergoes a longer ageing period, closer to 18 months predominantly in new French oak barrels.

Xige’s overall winemaking style aims for ripe fruit expression and polished, smooth textures that appeal to contemporary international palates. However, they also consciously embrace and showcase the unique signature of the Helan Mountain terroir – often described as having a floral lift and a distinct savoury or herbaceous undertone, particularly evident in wines featuring Cabernet Gernischt. Rather than seeking to eliminate this local character, Xige works with it. By harvesting Gernischt at full maturity and employing careful blending techniques, they aim to transform potentially 'green' notes into more complex spice or savoury elements within the wines. Consequently, Xige reds typically present as dry and full-bodied, displaying rich dark fruit flavours often accompanied by nuances of green peppercorn or capsicum, all supported by a framework of fine-grained tannins.

Beyond the flagship Jade Dove and Grand Vin lines, Xige produces an extensive range from younger vines, which includes varietals like Malbec. Which brings us to our wine in question today: the Xige Estate N28 Malbec 2020.

Malbec found extraordinary success in the high-altitude vineyards of Mendoza, Argentina, becoming the country's signature grape. Noticing the similar high-elevation conditions in Ningxia's Helan Mountain region, Xige decided to pioneer plantings of Malbec there.

This particular bottling has been matured using a combination of large oak casks and smaller 300-litre French oak barrels. Now, let's see how this Ningxia Malbec presents in the glass.

Xige Estate N28 Malbec 2021 – Review

Tasting Notes

Nose: Smooth and polished, with a clear burst of heady black fruit—blackberries and blackberry preserve leading the way. It’s generous but not overripe, it just hits the spot. Oak character is upfront, layered with sweet vanilla, teriyaki glaze, soft liquorice, a hint of violets. There’s an evolving spiciness that becomes more pronounced as you air it—white pepper, tarragon, and a lift of five spice.

Palate: Juicy and moderately full with a medium-bodied density. Dark fruit remains central—cassis, dark cherries and a touch of prune, all wrapped in a robust but impressively smooth tannic frame. The tannins have got some grip but they’re not aggressive. Acidity gains presence mid-palate, creating lift and keeping the fruit from feeling too plush or soft.

Finish: Medium-long in length. I get a clear cherry lollipop note at first, followed by the slight bitterness of dark cherry skins. There's a mild dry edge—a sort of chalky, slate-like minerality—that draws the finish out without adding weight. It tapers cleanly, leaving a faintly dry, tactile sensation.

My Thoughts:

This feels like a very deliberate, moderately oaked Malbec—showing more floral lift and pure fruit than I typically expect from the grape.

The nose leans oak-forward, but the palate is fresher and more restrained, driven by silky tannins and moderate acidity. Tannins give structure, but it’s never aggressive, and the oak influence drops back in favour of fruit once it hits the palate.

It’s a clean, well-made, and surprisingly expressive Malbec—especially considering this isn’t even one of Xige’s flagship wines. A solid performer, and honestly, a pretty compelling case for what Ningxia and Xige Estate can do with this variety.

@CharsiuCharlie