A flashback with this new tasting offered to us by Hubert Corman (after his column on Madinina 1895 rum ). The discovery of these bottles of Martinique origin from the 1930s and 1960s in a cellar adds to this tasting an even more enigmatic touch for our palates obscured by these flavors of yesteryear.

Saint-James Rum 1930

Opening these old bottles is always tricky, although the lead crown has withstood the ravages of time and the cellar. The cork that appears to be in perfect condition is much less so at the first pull of the corkscrew, it is crumbling. No big deal in itself, but a lot of delicacy to avoid forgetting things in the bottle.

The nose is enchanting at first sight, will the passage to the tasting glass confirm our feeling? Served delicately, the color close to old patinated bronze reassures our opinion on the age of this rum between 6 and 7 years, not beyond.

Its oily aspect, sticking to the walls of the glass, already gives us a sense of how it holds in the mouth. Pastry immediately comes to mind and the cannelés dear to Alain Jupé. Bordeaux was for years the port of arrival for many boats coming to unload their entrails filled with rums from the Antilles. Caramelized cooked melon, overripe apple, candy sugar, violet for the silky and fruity side. I find at this moment the pleasure of very old Speyside malt because it is far from having revealed all its olfactory subtleties . Dominican tobacco, dried fruits, Corinthian raisins, old exotic wood furniture, wax, encaustic, roasted peanut, walnut kernels, Quality Street toffee. Unaccustomed to the fact, vegetal aromas such as hot damp straw. The journey continues to enter an old English Mark 7. Orange blossom, hot sand, black tea, cinnamon liqueur.

Literally transported by this long-dormant discovery, it is finally time to taste it.

From the outset, it exploits all the taste buds and takes everyone into a concentrate of Martinique, liquorice, herbal liqueur, blond tobacco, leather, dried fruits, toffee, honey candy, 80% bitter chocolate, oily, an old dandy, Gentleman's rum. I realize that yesterday's rum confirms the parallel with old malts. The different work, the patience, the raw materials, the yeasts, the fermentation time certainly longer than today and of course the barrels. What were they, where did they come from?

Finally, to end this magnificent tasting, I would sum up with this sentence: pwoua pwoua, what a bomb, just huge with smoky and ashy notes as a retro-olfaction.

Saint-James Rum 1960

This sixties version of St James rums is recognizable by its red screw cap and its white "Twist Cap's" ring typical of the beginning of this period. Still bottled in 100cl format with its original bottle stamped with the "Plantation St James Martinique" seal, it also bears a back label with the legal notices as well as its 47° degree.

It is not uncommon to discover bottles without labels, unfortunately time is a traitor of capes and swords which often erases from our treasures the beautiful labels displaying West Indian faces or the idyllic landscapes of the Caribbean islands.

In her dress in the colors of Arlay wine, you look like you've just been on an expedition to the French Jura .

To taste the 1930 version beforehand, the nose is a little more synthetic, varnished, acrylic. After many minutes of aeration, make way for waffles filled with rhubarb and hot apples, marmalade, candied fruits . Acacia honey wraps everything up. Then Montélimar and its toasted almond nougat arrive from a trip with notes of an old leather trunk. Licorice, cinnamon, hot ashes with this vegetal side rolled in wax and encaustic, a little Drambuie liqueur. Everything is in the complexity and it is really essential to wait a long time before starting a tasting session as the rum is so closed.

In the mouth, for my part, I have the feeling of having a younger rum 4/5 years at the most, more lively, a little "dirty boy" slightly pointed by the notes of alcohol and a little milky. The ash more marked than on the nose made me think of these fires that are extinguished with cold water. Tobacco, spices like black pepper but mild, cinnamon and notes of leather. At 47° it is really great with the bitterness of chocolate as a bonus.

Much less complex than the 1930, it is more linear. Be careful, this remains a superb tasting rum from this period. The old-timers were very lucky to be able to find these versions and others daily for ridiculous prices.

Hubert Corman

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

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