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Appleton | historical side

Appleton is THE iconic distillery in Jamaica (ambassador of Jamaican rum to the world) and surprisingly the one that least represents this heavy style of 'stinking rum' so appreciated by some enthusiasts. Owned by J. Wray & Nephew Limited (Jamaica's oldest company), Appleton is located in the heart of the Nassau Valley, where its sugar factories, distillery and warehouses have been operating since 1749 (production is entirely carried out on site). While the estate is much older (1655), rum has still been produced there for over 250 years. Over 4,000 hectares are reserved for sugar cane cultivation, to which must be added Holland State and New Yarmouth in Clarendon, for an estimated total of 8,600 hectares (Appleton holds licenses on behalf of many multinationals).

Throughout its history, the distillery has benefited from huge investments that have allowed it to modernize its facilities, replacing the old coffey stills of the time with a gigantic column (built by the Canadian Vickers) with more efficient production. Historically, the rum is filtered through charcoal and then colored with caramel (imported from England), like most Jamaican rums mainly reserved for trade (Jamaican law only allows the addition of water to the rum for reduction and caramel for coloring). Appleton is the first distillery on the island to sell a rum under its own brand (more famous for export than on the local market), and it can even boast of having the largest stocks of rum in the world: we are talking about more than 240,000 barrels, stored in different places in Jamaica (most of them near Kingston) to avoid a catastrophe in a single cellar and possible losses. There would therefore be very few of these barrels at the distillery itself.

An extremely rare case because there is very little aged rum in Jamaica, everything is sold in bulk for export, and amber rum is mainly reserved for the wealthy classes and tourists. The angel's share at Appleton is about 6% and the aging is done in American oak barrels (200 liters).

Appleton | production side

Appleton offers Single Blended rums , which are a blend of stronger rums distilled discontinuously (via alembic/potstill) and lighter rums distilled continuously (via a triple column), from the same distillery. The proportion of the two methods has surely evolved over time, giving a little more prominence to column rum, which is simpler and quicker to produce. The use of columns dates back to the end of the 1950s, marking a turning point in production with the appearance of lighter rums.

The Appleton style would also be due, according to its owners, to the different strains of yeast that come from - and belong to - the distillery, as well as the water used coming from a very pure source harnessing the distillery. Fermentation would last between 30 and 72 hours (according to Dave Broom and his book RUM), and more usually 48 hours (according to Edward Hamilton in his Guide To Rum published in 1997).

(photos from the Cocktail Wonk blog following a trip to Appleton, read without moderation)

Appleton rums | the 'classic' range

Appleton White: first offered at 43° then at a classic 40°, it will impress for a short time with a 151 overproof at 75.5° before becoming more democratic at 37.5, thus responding to the sirens of cocktails and the fashion for lighter rums. First truly 'white', it is now aged before being discolored and is now only offered in versions at 37.5 and 40°. The 151 overproof will be replaced by an overproof from Wray & Nephew at 63.
Appleton Special: an amber rum and the first aged rum from Appleton, with different versions and capacities (from 70 to 175cl) depending on the markets and the eras, which was originally called Appleton Gold.
Appleton Dark: a dark rum as its name suggests, offered at 40°, of which there was also a version Appleton 151 Dark Rum (75.5°). Even older, and which is intended to be the front of the Dark: the Appleton Punch ( see the bottle here ), which will be released at different degrees of bottling: 75° proof (37.5°), 90 (45°) and 97° proof (48.5°) in the 70s; we imagine that the term Dark will sell better than that of Punch.

Appleton Rums | 'Estate' Range

These are the house's premium expressions, primarily aged rums sold under the Appleton Estate name, to emphasize that these are primarily - and only - estate rums.

In 2015, Appleton decided to review its product range to "enable consumers to find their way around better" , by launching a new classification that aims to be more "coherent and consistent" , or even to "celebrate the art of blending" . But what could be more coherent and consistent than an age? The announced changes do not lie, and introduce the notion of NAS (No Age Satement) into the world of rum:

The original Appleton V/X (for Very Exceptional ) had a precise age statement of at least 5 years (between 5 and 10 years even), while since the redesign of the range it has been replaced by a rum called Signature Blend : no more age statement on the bottle, but the 'promise' of a blend of 15 rums with an average age of 4 years (promise published on their website). Under the cover of a change of classification, Appleton has almost halved the age statement of its rum (and doubled its profit?), abandoning at the same time the very clear terminology of its old label.

On this same idea, the Appleton Estate 8yo Reserve which clearly announced its age has been transformed into Appleton Reserve Blend: we then move from a clearly identified 8-year-old rum to a blend of 20 rums with an average age of 6 years.

The Appleton 12 years old will have been offered in different forms as we will see below in the tastings, from the stoneware carafe in the 70s (Old Reserve 12 ) to the tall bottle in the 80s ( 12 Rare Old ), then the classic Appleton Extra of the 80s/90s whose name will change to Appleton Extra 12 to be called Rare Blend 12 (since 2005). It is the only one (with the 21 year old) to have kept a precise age in the new range.

The Appleton 20 years old, released once in the form of a ceramic jar in the 70s,
The Appleton 21 years old launched in the 90s (blue box), and which will change shape at the dawn of the 2000s with a more imposing and luxurious bottle. It is part with the V/X, 8 and 12 years old of the classic old rums from Appleton. The
Appleton 30 years old and its 45%, in a limited edition (1440 bottles) composed of a blend of rums of at least 8 years old re-assembled and aged 22 additional years.

And finally, commemorative rums:
Appleton Estate Master Blenders Legacy Rum , a bottling launched to celebrate the work of three generations of master blenders, and created by the latest, Joy Spence, using “the rarest rums up to 30 years old”.
An Appleton 250th anniversary Edition released in 1999 to commemorate Appleton’s 250th anniversary,
an Appleton Exclusive offered only at the distillery in 2009 in a luxury box to celebrate the terroir of Nassau,
up to the Jamaica Independance Reserve 50 years, a very special blend of 50 year old rums released in a limited edition of 800.

In 2017, a new bottling is due to be released, this time celebrating Joy Spencer's 20th year of service to Appleton as Master Blender: a blend of rums aged 25 years and over.

Below you will find tasting notes of different rums in the range, from yesterday to today, starting with white rums, the VX, 8 and 12 years old. We will come back to the rest soon as we move up the range to 50 years old.

The goal here is to compare the same rums throughout the history of the distillery to detect differences, preferences, in short, minimal or notable changes in order to seriously, and as precisely as possible, take a tour of the owner. Direction Kingston for a journey that traces no less than half a century of rum history…

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Appleton White Side

Historically, the distillery has released quite a few variations, ranging from an ultra-light rum at 37.5° to the famous 151 proof (75.5°) of the 60s, including the more classic 40°. Today, there are two left (at 40 and 37.5) mainly intended for cocktails, while the overproof rum is now sold under the name Wray & Nephew with a 63° version, a real institution in Jamaica. Here is an overview of the different whites, from yesterday to today…

Appleton White 80's / 40°

Tasted via an old miniature that probably dates from the 50s or 60s, with a version that we imagine at 40° (but which does not mention any degree on the label). The rum displays a "light dry continuous still rum" .

On opening, past the crystalline color of circumstance for a white, the rum appears very oily. On the nose, it is very aromatic and it is even a very good surprise for a white molasses, which generally is never really 'white' because aged and discolored (and often very poor on the nose). We can easily make the connection here with the cane which is rather fresh, citrus fruits (orange, lemon) and banana, then anise. With rest of the liquorice. The attack is very soft and 'easy' (very little alcohol), on exotic fruits (banana), anise and liquorice, and all while retaining a nice menthol freshness. The finish is not excessively long but the rum makes a nice return on the spices and always a brown of freshness, then darkens on the liquorice. Nice surprise despite the loss of alcohol due to a long conservation. There is great promise in this white rum which should be confirmed via a bottle with better conservation (Score: 80) .

Appleton Classic White / 37.5 and 40°

More recent "whites" intended (on paper) for cocktails, with on one side a version offered at 37.5° and a second at 40. Note that this is a blend of molasses rum (distilled via pot tsill and column) previously aged (sic) for up to 2 years before being filtered and discolored, and therefore technically not white rum.

The first one offers a much fatter dress (disc) than the old version tasted above and offers an even more exotic nose: here we have the impression of being the nose above a freshly crushed banana puree; it is very strong in banana, with grated coconut. We also find an earthy side (mushroom), moss (undergrowth), and vanilla. A very gourmet white rum in the end (and sweet), and rather expressive (especially at 37.5°) with all the same a little freshness (lemon) and alcohol. On the palate, this white is quite oily and sweet, we find these two fruits and especially the banana, orange and liquorice; always gourmet even if the alcohol is quite present and dries the mouth; the finish is dry, spicy (white pepper) and lemony (candied and sweet). What can I say except that it is a rather nice and easy discolored amber rum. Quite a bit of alcohol too, and this 37.5° rum will even be measured at 40.1°… (score: 73).

The second, which displays 40° (and which was indeed measured at 40) is also oily, but less exotic on the nose and more closed: the banana is greener, the citrus fruits more pronounced (orange peel), the rum is more tame but still aromatic compared to the average of the molasses "whites". The rest brings assurance to the banana which now competes with the orange. On the palate, the attack is oily, more frank, quite strong on the orange, alcohol and mentholated herbs; it is fresh, spicy and lively, and even rather mature. The finish is dry, once again on the alcohol, but also the orange is decidedly very present. Less sweet and oily than the 37.5° version, more pleasant when tasted pure too, it appears more natural (Rating: 77).

In the end, the oldest remains the best, and perhaps the only real white of the lot (understand the only unaged one, an aberration for a white rum). Current releases are more consensual.

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Appleton V/X circa 80/90 / 40°

A blend of rums at least 5 years old. A bottle from the 80s/90s.

The color is golden amber, oily.
On the nose, the rum is dry and brings out tannins in addition to a metallic smell, like copper that mixes with molasses. This tends to give a slight spiciness to the nose that will go away with a little rest, and to which is added orange peel, banana and even a marmalade side; and spices, with an earthy side. The rest darkens the nose with a very light tarry/olive side giving this rum a serious and relatively raw side.

On the palate, the attack is oily and slightly buttery, on a molasses mixing orange marmalade, liquorice and a spicy woody note (black pepper) but also vanilla; the longer the rum stays in the mouth, the more it develops this unctuous and almost syrupy side, on liquorice, nuts and dried fruits (raisins). The finish is quite long, on dry notes of oak and pepper, raisins and black liquorice at the very end.

An entry-level rum that already offers characteristics of Appleton but will probably be more effective mixed than in pure tasting. A straight and natural rum, on liquorice. Note: 76

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Appleton V/X circa 90 / 40°

The same assembly but this time more recent in history, from the 90s.

The color is a little more pale and the nose is even more buttery and even pastry-like on very gourmet exotic fruits (banana much more than orange); less spicy than the previous version which perhaps contained more pot still rum? the contours are softened here, it is very polished, too smooth perhaps. In any case, it is much less complex and more consensual than the previous rum, more buttery, honeyed and this surely responds to the taste already assumed for the sweeter rums.

The palate is also very different, even more oily, even honeyed and softer, warm and easy/sweet. Brown sugar, syrup, banana and blood orange and a bit of zest, and quite a bit of licorice for a medium finish, dry (on the alcohol) and sweeter (licorice), almost sickening in the long run.

A more consensual version, softer and honeyed than the previous rum, which surely meets the growing demands for a softer rum. We already lose authenticity and complexity compared to the previous rum. And it's a shame because it looks more like the mass, and already a little less like the Appleton style. Note: 74

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Appleton Signature Blend / 40°

The new version of the rum above but this time without age statement, which is a shame in this already deregulated world. This rum was released in 2015 at the same time as the new range of old rums.

The color is more oily and slightly more golden; the nose is very pleasant and very easy, on a rich molasses, vanilla, ginger and orange, apricot. The nose is melted, melting, buttery and gourmet. Enough to please the greatest number, that's for sure, but far (very far) from the first V/X.

On the palate, it is very sweet and fruity, smooth and with a certain freshness (citrus, lemon): there is orange, peach, apricot; it is very soft, even rounder than the previous version, less spicy too and with liquorice. The finish is average, persistent on the sweet notes of fruit and liquorice. This new V/X is perhaps younger, but it is even simpler (and impersonal).

A blend of 15 rums with an average age of 4 years, we are therefore well below the first V/X of the distillery, and the tone is clearly set: we must offer an easy and very smooth rum, and it is successful in this, but at what price? We frankly do not want to know the rest if Appleton decides to change the 'recipe'/blend again to the point of losing all interest and identity. Note: 74

Conclusion on the V/X

While the first offers a raw and authentic nose, the second is already much more honeyed and syrupy, as if it had become impersonal and too consensual. The third (under the new name) gives back a little complexity but still in a hyper-round and sweet register, and clearly shows Appleton's current positioning, more determined to meet the demand for 'easy' rum than to offer more identity and complexity.

So was it better before? Not necessarily, but it was already very different. Maybe the truth is elsewhere? (in the older rums in the range). We'll see...

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Appleton Reserve 8 / 43°

Blend of rums aged at least 8 years. Another classic from Appleton, always made from pot still and column rum. We are talking here about 20 different rums, the youngest of which is 8 years old, with aging in ex-Jack Daniels barrels.

The color is amber, sustained, tending towards copper and draws very wide legs. A very bright rum.
On the nose, it is soft and sweet: on caramelized sugar, honey, cinnamon; quite spicy, the wood is slightly smoky (leather) with citrus zest (orange) which brings a little hold and which cuts through all this molasses. But also notes of coconut and chocolate for a nose that is both caustic and zesty, but ultimately quite simple and especially caramelized. It is still not very complex but it remains very pleasant.

On the palate, the attack is oily and concentrated, on a spicy woodiness (cinnamon, clove and curry), slightly astringent with lemon and orange zest, then burnt sugar. The fruits are there (banana, raisin), but it is the spices that dominate with this time pepper for a nice hold, for a fairly dry and moderately long finish, with notes of sweet leather and the return of our dear spices, all in sweetness, and liquorice.

A very smooth, smooth rum that offers a simple and easy oily and spicy mouthfeel from start to finish. We find our orange peel in a rum that looks a lot like V/X, but more lively. Note: 80

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Appleton Reserve Blend / 40°

The Reserve 8 years old moves to the Reserve Blend and loses its age in the process for a little less transparency (NAS again), also losing 3° in the process, going from 43 to 40°.

Amber color tending towards copper, oily with plump legs.
On the nose, it is less concentrated and rich than the 8 year old: we are on caramelized banana, a buttery and pastry nose (pastry cream), cinnamon and chocolate, for a more 'gourmet' version than the Reserve 8 year old. The citrus zest is there, faithful to its post, but it is the banana puree that dominates (in direct comparison, the 8 year old is much more focused on spices), and with a little liquorice.

The palate is very soft and sweet, on the sweet exoticism (banana), caramelized, even chocolatey, a little astringent (zest, grass) and the spices arrive with the citrus fruits. Quite short, dry finish, on orange and liquorice, and alcohol.

A rum that has very little to do with the Reserve 8 years, much richer and more mature; this Reserve Blend appears much younger, wiser and also more 'tasteless'. Note: 75

Same impression as with the old and new generation V/X, the 8 year old does not seem to contradict the rule: softer, more gourmand and more in tune with the times, and shorter in the mouth. We will much prefer the Reserve 8 year old which is 'still' easily found, but until when?

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Appleton Reserve 12 circa 70 / 43°

A 75cl stoneware jar from the 70s containing a 12-year-old rum reduced to 43°. Also available in 20 years. Judging by the inscriptions on the carafe, Appleton/J&Nephew was already ahead of its time with a well-placed "aged in 12 tropical years ".

Old coppery gold dress tending towards orange, oily and extra bright, it draws a crown of thick tears, fatty disc on the surface.
On the nose the rum offers a lot of richness, on an armored confit, gourmet and at the same time quite straight: orangettes, varnish, with a light leather and a metallic tip. There is surely in this rum more distillate taken from the pot still, lower production obliges. Mango compote, some briny notes, nutmeg and lemon zest. The rest makes it earthy and reinforces its roasted side, and the alcohol tickles the nose. Beautiful presence and big personality, and very far from the artificial roundness of today. Between sweet, tangy and grilled notes.

On the palate, the rum is rich and oily, with an exotic heart (excessive, rotten), oak and leather. The attack is powerful and peppery, then exotic fruits arrive, orange and all sorts of zest (candied and acidity); then it seems to harden again, become a little spicier and accompanied by licorice. A mouth that goes crescendo and which gives pride of place to spices with a warm and spicy mouth. The finish is average and persists on the spices and this pepper, drying the very end, with a return to the exoticism. Empty glass on the licorice stick and the coffee.

A 12 year old with an opulent citrus nose and spicy palate; it starts by flattering your senses before spanking you. Rich and powerful, a 12 year old at the antipodes of today's Rare Blend, with roasted notes that are outrageously replaced today by redundant exoticism. Score: 83

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Appleton 12 years circa 80 / 43°

A 12 year old this time offered in a more classic bottle dating from the 80s.

Coppery color tending towards bronze, oily once again with tears even more swollen than its little brother.
On the nose, the rum is drier and less rich than the ceramic carafe, much finer: we are here on dried fruits (fig, grape), a dry oak too, blond tobacco, nuts (walnuts), and slightly annoying alcohol notes that surely hide other things. We find this light metallic atmosphere, like copper and an old furniture wax (caustic).

On the palate, the attack is slightly oily, warm and balanced and offers a nice concentration: notes of liquorice, tobacco, dried fruits (macerated) and nuts (walnuts again), orange; it is much more expressive and complex than on the nose. Very nice balance for a classier rum that becomes richer as it evolves in the mouth. The finish is quite long, dry and persistent on grilled spices, dried fruits and leather.

A more timid and dry nose than the previous rum but the mouth impresses with its complexity and a richness that grows in the mouth. All very well balanced, it just lacks a more seductive nose but time will perhaps prove it right. A more controlled and classier facet of the 12 year old. Note: 85

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Appleton Extra / 43°

No age statement, the Appleton Extra would be the former Extra 12 years. Released in the 80s, it already has an alcohol content of 43° and displays on the label: "old copperstills on the appleton estate import our rums their rich flavorful character". Some sources report a blend of rums ranging from 12 to 30 years, others up to 18 years.

Bronze color with brownish reflections, oily with tears even thicker than the rum above.
On the nose it is quite dry, on copper and a metallic smell that will disappear with aeration; we then arrive at grilled notes (spices, dried fruits, nuts), liquorice and tobacco. It is heavy and closed, earthy; the orange is there but blacker than usual, like chocolate), with toasted oak, black tea and prune.

The palate is rich, oily to the point on these toasted notes now caramelized: dried fruits, licorice, toasted oak (caramelized?), darker fruits (prunes, cherry) in a very well balanced and concentrated whole. Without false notes and vanilla, the rum goes crescendo until a licorice, caramelized, toasted finish, with a beautiful tobacco and even chocolate, and the return of dried fruits for a beautiful death, soft and sweet.

Very nice presence in the mouth, the rum is oily and encompassing, black and sweet but mastered from A to Z and very pleasant from start to finish. This Appleton Extra is..extra. Note: 84

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Appleton Extra 12 / 43°

This is a blend of rums between 12 and 18 years old, aged in oak barrels that previously contained Jack Daniels.

The color is a beautiful copper with golden highlights and the liquid develops long legs on the walls of the glass.
The nose is intense but delicate and complex: it develops a sweet smell of vanilla on the surface, a fairly fine woodiness, and then a bouquet of spices takes over considerably; we can recognize walnut, nutmeg, cinnamon as well as a hint of citrus (orange/lemon peel). All accompanied by a smell of leather, tobacco.

The attack is complex and powerful, on dried tobacco mixed with molasses. Vanilla makes its appearance and spices take care of leaving a warm note in the mouth. In good agreement with the nose, no bad (or good?) surprises. Orange is also present in the mouth. The finish is moderately long, dry and warming but without burning the throat; once again the spices and dried fruits are there. A pleasant taste remains in the mouth, with this little something smoky.

Finesse, power, complexity, the Appleton Estate 12 year old rum is a complete and pleasant rum in every way; it would only lack a little more character, but it is a very good start for those who would like to start tasting Jamaican rum. The quality/price ratio is irreproachable. Note: 80

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Appleton Rare Blend 12 / 43°

The only rum in the new range (since 2015) that has kept its age, hooray.

The rum is coppery amber, fat and very bright; disc on the surface and bubble in the glass, a little more fat.
On the nose, dry and metallic with this characteristic varnish (glue) of Jamaican noses. A smell that we do not find as present in the previous releases strangely. it is very heady and present, and it has nothing to do with the oldest 12 years from Appleton in which we do not find as much varnish/glue. Very different. Rest will not make its heady and spicy notes disappear on the nose, but will make a significant place for vanilla and orange peel. The rum seems younger, funkier than its predecessors, but still pleasant.

On the palate, it is rich and oily, with a mature exoticism (mango, papaya), wood, tannic and tangy (citrus?), licorice and sweet spices. There is less complexity, it is more versatile but it remains very pleasant and well balanced on the palate (and concentrated). The end is moderately long, with a return to the Jamaican markers and licorice. Always pleasant.

The first rum in the range that offers this varnished side sticks to the nose, something rather (very) rare at Appleton which generally makes fairly consensual rums. For those who want a glimpse of deep Jamaica and its heavy and stinky (stinky) style, it's a start for a price that is quite reasonable, and we are far from the v/X and 8 years that have become so indifferent (and round). Note: 81

CONCLUSION OF THE 12 YEARS

We are entering the "heart" of the Appleton range. Far from the classic V/X and the roundness of the 8 year olds, we find in the 12 year old series much more mature and complex rums, and clearly more "rums", authentic and therefore interesting: while the first (70's) gives pride of place to citrus fruits (orange, lemon), the 12 year old from the 80s is already different, finer and with a mouth that begins to speak more of toasted and dark notes; which will be confirmed by the Appleton Extra, and in a very beautiful way. Since the change of range, Appleton seems to return to a more "Jamaican" and authentic identity, that of a nose on the varnish/glue that none of the other 12 year olds had delivered as much. Is it a question of age? In any case, the old 12 year olds resemble very little the new one, it is a fact. And without distinguishing them by qualitative order, it is quite difficult to separate them on an organoleptic level, so many differences do they offer. Two different eras, and different customs surely... But in all cases interesting things, and beyond that, very good.

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!