Karukera | Historical side
Often considered Longueteau's export brand, Karukera is a separate entity that is also located in Sainte-Marie, Guadeloupe, on the Marquisat de Sainte-Marie estate. In 2005, François Longueteau bought the Marquisat de Sainte-Marie agricultural estate and the Espérance distillery from his father, with the aim of maintaining the family heritage and continuing to produce rum under the Longueteau name; the following year, Grégoire Hayot created the Marquisat de Sainte-Marie company in partnership with F. Longueteau, whose trading name is Karukera, with the stated aim of promoting the estate's poured rum by aging old rums.
Thus, on November 2, 2006, Karukera carried out its first aging using Longueteau distillate with 87 310-liter barrels supplied by Seguin Moreau. In 2007, Karukera had its cellar built (Longueteau would not have one until much later), which included an aging area, a workshop for refining white rum, a packaging workshop, storage areas, a laboratory as well as a tourist reception area and a shop shared by all the Domaine's productions: that of Longueteau and that of Karukera. Since that day, Karukera has aged each year the equivalent of 15,000 to 20,000 liters of pure alcohol distilled from the estate's cane, mainly in ex-Cognac barrels, with an alcoholic strength varying between 52% and 62%.
While waiting for its old rums to mature, and in order to initiate the activity, Karukera began by offering a white rum "Canne bleue" matured in its cellar from the pouring rum of the Longueteau distillery. Then, from 2008, Karukera offered confidential selections from other colleagues: the 1995 and 1997 vintages first, made from a blend of pure juice rums and molasses from a distillery in Guadeloupe, but also rums from 1999, 2000 and 2004 , this time 100% pure juice and originating in Martinique, just like the Christophe Colomb vintage . Some are subject to re-aging and special refining: the 2000 is refined in a single barrel that contained a premier cru of Sauternes, while the 2004 vintage is aged in 5 ex-Cognac barrels and bottled barrel by barrel in 2012. Of these old rums acquired from fellow breeders, only one barrel remains today from the 2000 vintage. The old Karukera rum as well as the Réserve Spéciale will follow the same path: first, assembled from rums acquired from other producers, they will become estate rums from 2011.
Karukera | a 100% local rum from the Marquisat estate
Today, after 10 years of operation, Karukera can finally release its very first vintage rums from the Domaine du Marquisat de Sainte-Marie. This is how we saw the arrival in 2016 of two vintages: L'Expression 2008 aged in new French oak barrels, bottled at its natural strength with in particular a limited series of 1500 bottles released on the occasion of the 60th anniversary of LMDW (and another for Guadeloupe and export), and the Select Casks 2009 , aged in Cognac barrels. The label displays for the occasion a proud "100% terroir of the Domaine de Sainte-Marie", always with this strong idea of highlighting the origin of the rum. The first historical vintage of Karukera will remain however the 2006, date of creation of the company, which will be released on the occasion of a special cuvée by Velier and Luca Gargano, who fell under its spell during a visit. In their catalog, Karukera also offers L'Intense, a white rum of high alcohol content (60.3°) from Canne Bleue and having undergone a 42-week refinement, which we will talk about again on the occasion of another article…
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Karukera 2008 / 48.1°
This is the Guadeloupe version, which differs somewhat from the LMDW version (offered at 48.4°). This is the first vintage aged from pouring at the Espérance distillery to its maturity in the Grégoire Hayot and Karukera cellars. Aged 8 years, the rum is offered cask strength and not chill-filtered.
The color of this rum is a beautiful mahogany, tending towards an intense bronze with coppery reflections. A disc on the surface contributes to the reassuring and heavy atmosphere of this rum from which the wall already draws languid, nonchalant and rather proud tears.
On the nose, we have a very rich rum that is both very classy and gourmet: the cane blends harmoniously with candied notes of orange, caramelized apricot, grape, with a very fine and excessively well-controlled vanilla woodiness, as well as a mineral (earthy) note that enhances the palette and gives it a beautiful dimension. A very complex nose that oscillates between exoticism and minerality, gourmandise and freshness, with disconcerting ease, very seductive. The rest brings a mature banana, notes of violet candy and fresh spices (cardamom) then it moves to a darker profile (licorice, nutmeg), and the more time passes the more the rum becomes black, on licorice and brown tobacco, and offers a completely different aromatic palette. A very interesting and lively rum, which goes from an exotic and bright profile to a darker and empyreumatic side, while remaining gourmet (cocoa, candied fruits). A multi-directional nose with which time seems to stop, to be breathed in for even more pleasure.
On the palate, the attack is suave and concentrated, rather dry and oily (the alcohol is very well integrated), mixing a very classy woodiness with saline (mineral) notes, candied fruits (apricot) and tangy citrus fruits (oranges). We also find darker notes of licorice, tobacco and spices (pepper, cinnamon), and what freshness! It is tonic, dark and spicy, very well mastered and above all melted and electrified by a fresh and invigorating note, mixing minerality and citrus fruits for a result of the most beautiful effect.
And what complexity... the intensity succeeds in resisting, and even prolonging itself and offers a magnificent sensation of fullness reminiscent of very old rums. Between minerality and animality, without forgetting the redundant and gourmet exoticism and the spices which bring a lot of hold, the finish is very long and especially persistent on these dark and spicy notes, but also minty and very fresh... and the rum does not seem to want to stop, this time delivering a liquorice accompanied by a note of saline tobacco (sailors' tobacco). The rum will remain in the mouth for a very - very - long time.
8 years old and already very complex and evolving, here is a rum with which we will never get bored, very well mastered from start to finish and without apparent fault. It evolves over the minutes delivering approaches that are sometimes fruity, mineral, vegetal and empyreumatic. And in a real beautiful balance that will surely make people jealous… We await the rest with great impatience. A goldsmith's work recalling a little something of very old Cognac. Note: 89.5
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Karukera Select Casks 2009 / 45°
Second vintage to come out of Karukera, still from the distillate of François Longueteau; resulting from the blending of rums from 14 oak barrels (ex-Cognac of 350 liters), it is a small batch bottled at its natural degree and not cold filtered to preserve all the aromas.
Bright amber, the color is oily and very luminous, tending towards gold.
On the nose, we have a profile that is immediately very woody and vanilla, fine and dry but also on an opulent fruitiness: we have the impression of entering the heart of a ripe fruit, of seeing it melt at the very moment we grab it, going to its most intimate depths, slowly intruding into its still beating heart. Mango, orange, quince, fruits with slightly acidic and sweet yellow flesh, acrid but vanilla, out of breath but with enough leftovers - and class - to express themselves with clarity and pride. Quite quickly this very fine woodiness blends with the fruits, not without recalling an old Cognac, with a few notes of fresh anise, warm spices (peppers, cinnamon, ginger), and in a roasted continuity. The alcohol is relatively present but not annoying.
The palate is warm and very mellow, almost honeyed even, concentrated, and recalls once again this mature and broken exoticism, bitter, tangy and sweet. The rum clings to the palate, deliciously, and evokes the memory of a mature cane still very present, mixed with a very present and proud woodiness. It is well balanced and fine, a little spicier as the tasting progresses, with always this pepper which takes over, participating in creating a full atmosphere and far from boredom, more and more roasted. The finish of the palate is relatively long and rather dry on a vanilla woodiness and memories of cane.
A rum once again well mastered and serious, which has a lot in common with a cognac, and perhaps even too much influence in the end. Perhaps a biased one, but well executed. Note: 84
Two very interesting rums with a special mention for the 2008 which is a total success, and the unique opportunity to taste the first two vintages worked by Karukera from A to Z, with as a base the formidable white rum from Longueteau. The work of aging shows its importance here, as well as the different barrels used and their heating. Looking forward to the rest…
To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:
90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good
Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.
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