Despite the importance of sugar cane in Panama, there is only one distillery: Varela Hermanos SA. Its history dates back to 1908, when a certain Don José Varela Blanco created the first sugar mill in Panama, before seeing the first distillery smoke a few decades later (in 1936).

Today, the Varela Hermanos company is one of the most modern facilities, with more than 200 employees year-round, to which must be added about 300 people each season for the cutting of the cane: 800 hectares and 50,000 tons of sugar cane further away - cut by hand in conditions that are hoped to be good, but about which very little is known - the company produces several alcohols: rum of course, but also gin, vodka, a national drink (Secco), and an extra neutral alcohol of sugar cane (in 2 versions: one fermented and the other directly distilled) for the whole world. It also releases its own brands of rum: Abuelo, Cortez and Jumbie.

The company has two bottling plants, 1 in Pesé in the province of Herrera (Destileria Don José), which allows them to produce spirits based on sugar cane juice (Secco) and molasses (rum); and another in the capital, in the province of Panama. On the distillation side, the distillery, very modern, uses a multi-column (4 in total) continuously to manufacture its different alcohols.

On the bulk side (wholesale), we find Panama rum (and therefore Varela Hermanos) at almost all independent bottlers, then some 'branded' rums with a more or less unclear history (and not always traceable) but which have their origins in Panama: Zafra, Ron de Jeremy, Malecon, etc.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Abuelo 12 anos / 40°

Launched in 2009, aged 12 years on paper, in old small whisky casks. Measured at 29gr/L of sugar.

Dark amber color tending towards bronze, with oversized legs and very oily in the glass. On the nose, it is very gourmand and let's say it, pastry: caramel, crème brûlée, orange cake, blood orange and vanilla are in quantity. A little astringency on the nose (with a slight spiciness), but not unpleasant overall.

With rest, dried fruits (banana) and a smoky side, and always this vanilla and this astringent side which comes out, like a dry and metallic aroma, of alcohol (which is often found in light rums).

In the mouth, it is syrupy, always on orange, caramel, cinnamon; all sweet and without any presence of alcohol. It is destabilizing, with this disturbing impression of being in front of a rum drink, without attack, without punch but on the contrary all in simplicity. Neither rich nor complex, but which is drunk on its own. The finish is drying, rather short and broken by an over-presence of sugar, with a touch of spices all the same, and which suggests that this rum is rather made to be drunk on ice, or mixed?

A rum with a gourmet nose, reminiscent of pastry shops, but once in the mouth it does not shake off this image: caramel, butter, sugar, orange peel and banana. Too sweet, too syrupy, honeyed, and too sugary. Score: 68.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Abuelo Centuria / 40°

A blend of rums aged in old Jack Daniel's barrels, using the solera method. There is even some 30-year-old rum in this bottle, which is probably enough to justify at least a very high price (€140). This rum was measured at 27gr/L of sugar.

The rum offers a deep bronze color, with many sticky and very viscous tears.
On the nose, we expect much more for a rum so tempting on paper; instead, we are still on caramel, orange, caramelized sugar, fresh oak, smoky, tobacco? and dried fruits (fig). There is "less" sweetness here than the 12 year old, or at least differently: the nose is as if closed, not very expressive and reserved, with this astringency that takes over and hides the rest. Rest will open everything up, but nothing that we have not already seen or smelled. We are still on the register of extreme sweetness, without great complexity.

On the palate, it is very sweet, very oily, and once again without any alcohol notes; we find caramel, vanilla, a slightly smoky oak, leather, licorice, but with a kind of artificial and sweet taste that makes the mouth very dry (and not very pleasant). Apart from that, citrus fruits (candied), some spices, and little more. The finish is once again very dry and sweet, short and brittle (thanks to the sugar), and without much interest, and inevitably calls for a glass of mineral water (and preferably cold).

For the cost of the bottle it is clearly overrated. And for 140€ we expect something other than a sweet and so smooth drink, without relief or finish (or choose another rum from the Abuelo range, much more affordable). And at this price we will not even talk about serving it accompanied. Note: 65

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ron de Jeremy / 50°

Welcome to the world of rum version 10.0, the one that is not afraid of anything, not even ridicule. A blend created by a master ronero (the one so often in photos at festivals), and sold via the dubious attributes of a retired porn actor. It always comes to us from Panama, and it insidiously reminds us that rum is reserved for adults, and that it is a marketing product like any other.

A golden rum, very clear, almost straw-colored. And oily, of course.
On the nose, it is very flat, not even simple, but almost non-existent; oak, slightly caramelized, even burnt, and vanilla, ethanol. And no matter how much I wait, nothing more will come… it is very boring, with a hint of porn, which makes the nose very faithful to the genre. One question remains, how can a “7 year old” rum seem so insignificant?

On the palate, it is very oily, even honeyed, and inevitably sweet. We note the appearance of licorice mixed in a large dose of very heavy molasses, and we remain very much on this impression of licorice candy (zan), with some spices, and vanilla. The finish is short, but surely asks that we return to it. Without length, the finish is dry (on alcohol), rather unpleasant.

Probably the perfect rum to drink in a club: no need to smell anything, and a predominant alcohol taste. You can sell anything with sex, but not rum yet. Rating: 52

These are surely good products to sell, to please, to flatter the palate, but the term rum is not very flattering for the occasion. There is something for everyone, and some will say that this kind of product will push people towards 'real' rums; I have serious doubts about this hypothesis, which for me is more of a commercial argument. But if this is indeed the case, the person who would arrive at other things (much more serious) via this kind of product, will surely never come back to it.

Without relief, without punch, without love, it sounds empty in addition to making one sad about the fate of rum; but we must admit that there is an audience for it, and it is surely good (and this is, ultimately, only my personal opinion). If for you, rum is cool (Rum is Fun), that you do not like alcohols that are too pronounced and rather sweet, then you will find your happiness there.

Not wanting to remain on such a categorical opinion, we head to the independent bottlers for a little more Panamanian rum ...

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

L’Esprit Don José 2000 / 46°

Distilled in 2000 and bottled 12 years later at 46°. A sort of Abuelo 12 more authentic and with a bit more power (and aging in Europe). The bottling comes to us from France, and more specifically from Brittany. There is a full proof version in the same series that we will see below.

Golden, clear and bright, slightly coppery color. The dress is oily and does not denote the rest.
On the nose, we find the markers previously found in Abuelo rums, namely these very present citrus fruits (and this orange), this caramel, and this gourmet, pastry, vanilla, honeyed atmosphere. There is banana (dried), and this slightly "smoky" and buttery (rancid) atmosphere. We have more aromatic concentration here, and that's already something. With rest, prunes and darker notes (licorice) take their place.

On the palate, it is oily, honeyed and sweet: on caramel, vanilla, dried fruits, but also liquorice and a mentholated/citrus zest side that awakens the senses, and a slight bitterness brought by the wood (which breaks the sweet side a little). We are quite far from the boredom of official bottlings, and the finish is clearly longer and warmer, on a smoky woodiness and warm spices (cinnamon, ginger).

A rum a thousand miles from Abuelo, which will please radically more rum lovers, even if the rum remains what it is, better certainly, but not exceptional either and always sweet (this one was measured at 9-13 g/L). Note: 78

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

L’Esprit Don José 2000 / 57,8°

The Brut de fût version, this time with 57.8° on the meter.

Old gold color, amber, and an oily dress.
On the nose, a lot of alcohol, and beyond, apple, banana (green), vanilla and always this caramel; on the spice side: ginger and cinnamon are there. We stay on a pastry nose, gourmand and warm, but very alcoholic. Dried fruits are more and more present (apricot, raisins), and beyond, almond, and always these citrus fruits so characteristic.

On the palate, the 57.8° immediately makes a difference: it's still soft, honeyed and sweet (still too much), but the alcohol helps and gives it another dimension. Vanilla, caramel (salted butter), licorice and oak (smoked, braised), it's creamy and warm on the palate, and even peppery. The finish is quite long, dry, licorice, slightly tannic but still sweet, and spicy.

Finally a raw Abuelo! It remains alcoholic, like the whole thing for the moment, and dry in the mouth. A rum to be preferred as is to discover its hidden side, and a semblance of authenticity, but which has its limits (alcohol, dryness in the mouth, and sugar: 16-21 g/L). Note: 79

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Scotland & Malts Don José 1999 / 57,9°

Distilled in 1999 and bottled in 2011, after 12 years. As its name does not indicate, the bottler is German.

Old amber gold color, oily.
On the nose, alcohol, caramel and vanilla, and beyond citrus fruits (dried zest). We stay on the same profile as the rest, with a dominance of alcohol. These notes unfortunately do not suggest a very aromatic rum, which we imagine distilled to excess, with a powerful and spicy nose. This is a perfect example of the genre. With rest, notes of curry emerge, which can be found in other bottlings but in a much more discreet way.

On the palate, it's creamy, caramelized and sweet. Still vanilla, a sort of mixture mixing oak, vanilla and caramel, in a rather sticky and not unpleasant atmosphere, but far too sweet (maple syrup). Ginger and nutmeg arrive, for a warm and moderately long finish, still dry and sweet, peppery.

It feels like we're crossing the boundaries of the genre. We're going around in circles, with the impression of finding exactly the same rum, but sometimes stickier and more alcoholic than the previous or the next. This one is more like the original (Abuelo) but more concentrated. Rating: 76

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

The Rum Cask Panama 2004 / 54,5°

Another German bottler who has a history of offering very good products; bottled in 2013, this Abuelo bis is 8 years old and is bottled at cask strength.

amber color with copper highlights, oily like any self-respecting Don José.
On the nose, it is completely different from the rest… very smoky, like an Islay. With the impression of having a disconcerting - but interesting - mixture of caramel and sweet notes, with an extreme smoky side, braised, even ashy. Was it refined in an Isaly barrel? in any case, it is quite tenacious, halfway between sweet and salty, for a stunning result! the sweet notes come across better this time.

On the palate, we expect an ashy and extreme taste, and that is indeed what happens; but the notes of fruit and caramel (and vanilla), make the whole very easy, very sweet and even syrupy: a mixture of charcoal, burnt, caramelized, salty and marine, combined with the extreme sweetness of caramel and vanilla flights. The finish is long, and once again on the ashy, braised oak, islay style, for a taste that will remain in the mouth for a long time. Very long persistence.

A rum that stands out from the crowd, unique with its very pronounced ashy notes, and this time strangely measured at 0 sugar. Rating: 82

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Isla del Ron Panama 1995 / 52,9°

Bottled in 2012, 17 years old, cask strength (cask #002, 187 bottles). The oldest tasted so far, 17 years old and almost as much continental aging.

Old amber gold color, with a crown of fine droplets transforming into thick, very slow tears.
On the nose, it is woody, rather dry and caramelized, with our faithful vanilla. And always this slightly spicy, alcoholic side, which dominates the whole. Dried fruits, raisin and fig, orange, and notes of curry.

On the palate, the rum is oily, syrupy: a mixture of caramel, honey, oak, crème brûlée, always pastry and gourmet. Banana, sour apples, and always this maple syrup aspect, sweet, with warm spices (cinnamon, ginger). The finish is rather long and tasty, on exotic fruits, and spices. With pineapple in syrup, for a rather nice balance.

The oldest and not the least interesting, it works rather well this time, with a balance between sweet and too sweet (but still 29-34 g/L of added sugar). The long finish is rather pleasant, on exotic fruits which have their little effect. Note: 81

Rums from independent bottlers that remain on the same aromatic profile as the official bottlings, with fairly simple rums but with more power, and always this sugar; We learn, after some research, that the distillery, surely under cover of a long "tradition", is in the habit of adding sugar during the maturation (aging). The undeniable advantage of adding sugar is also to add... taste, and/or to mask a raw material that needs it.

We clearly feel that this is not enough, and that distillation does everything, and that for the moment an extremely distilled rum cannot (and will never be able to) naturally give aromas. Only the Rum Cask will stand out, with braised aromas of the most beautiful effect, but so different from the rest.

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!