JM hors d’âge

Triple vintage, multi-vintage, these are terms that have been put forward recently by some agricultural rum brands. This was already more or less the case in the 'luxury' carafes offered by the brands (with much older vintages), we now offer younger ones in more classic bottles, and therefore more accessible too.

Price : €50, 70cl and 42.5°. Limited edition of 13,000 bottles.

Age : this is a blend of rums from 2003, 2004 and 2005 bottled on 11/24/2014. We would therefore have rums aged between 9 and 11 years.

Why mix vintages... it is of course a question of diversifying the product range, in addition to giving carte blanche to the "master blender", with results that must necessarily be worth it. After the batch of rums with the most diverse finishes (even if it will return shortly), it is time for blends of vintage rums. And why not? This is in fact nothing more than a blend as already offered by the VO, VSOP, XO versions, etc. In the case of this multi-vintage JM we would be closer to old rums (generally 8 to 12 years old), but the brand has decided to play on the chosen rums and their vintages, rather than on the term "old rums", this surely allows us to renew ourselves and give a semblance of innovation to consumers.

As for the eternal debate about air-conditioned cellars at JM, the mystery remains. It was indeed a practice that had been put in place, but according to some it would have ended, and according to others still, in operation. In any case, the product sheets present on the sales sites and other catalogs (sent by JM) always mention air-conditioned cellars (with the famous: "ensuring optimal aging of rum", a bit like the laundry that washes whiter than white in short), go figure...

The rum has a rather deep amber color, very bright and rather oily: a thin crown forms and gives way to numerous droplets which slowly pearl towards the bottom of the glass.

The smell that emerges is light and sweet, not very expressive at first but subtle and fine, like JM: apricot, peach, exoticism, a jammy, vanilla nose, even if a little flat all the same. The woodiness is present enough to eclipse these fruits from time to time; when aerated, it loses a little more exoticism in favor of a roasted (always that apricot) and honeyed smell, where woodiness (licorice) and spices are melted to become one. Time will do it a world of good and that's all the better.

The attack is smooth, and we quickly regain hope compared to the rather ordinary nose, with a beautiful aromatic concentration. We find the apricot, the caramelized exotic fruit, ditto for the woody taste always very present and spicy. The longer the rum stays in the mouth, the more the whole becomes caramelized/roasted/spicy/licorice, all melted and warm in a harmonious whole. It's all one and it's resolutely woody, but it goes down well.

The finish is rather long, and the rum stays in the mouth for a long time, always warm; we are on the cane, the spices, and it goes crescendo to finish on a peppery and fruity note with a very nice persistence in the mouth.

A rum that takes a bit of time to get going but which has its little effect when you give it time… It is far from some old vintages from JM, certainly, but for 50 euros it is quite reasonable and it holds up, provided you like this roasted and woody side… In any case, it is well above the first risky release of JM on a famous private sales site.  Rating: 79

To help you (and me) find your way around, regarding the notes:

90 and + : exceptional and unique rum, it is the best of the best
between 85 and 89 : highly recommended rum, with that little something that makes the difference
between 80 and 84 : recommendable rum
75-79 POINTS : above average
70-74 POINTS : in the low average
less than 70 : not very good

Review courtesy of DuRhum.com.

From the folks behind DuRhum, Velier, and more, comes a premium online marketplace for rum enthusiasts by rum enthusiasts! Do check out www.rowspirits.fr for more great content and iconic rums!